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>■*< 


GOBFEErS   NARRATIVE 


OF  THB 


LAST    GRINNELL 

•       '     IN   SEARCH   OF 

SIR    JOHN    FRANKLIN, 

WITH  A 

BIOGEAPHY  OF  DR.  ELISHA  I.  KANE. 

FROM  THB 

CRADLE    TO    THE    GRAVE. 


BY 


WM.  C.  GODFREY. 

on  or  THB  BUKVIVOBS  OV  THE  BXPBDITIOV. 


SUPERBLY     ILLUSTRATED. 


J. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

T.    LLOYD    &    C  Q,. 

1857.                         ,' 

■L- 

'  .■^■;=^./,;_ 

'"^^■^ 

■.  ■# 

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M- 


Bntered  aooording  to  Act  of  Congress,  la  the  year  1807,  bj 

E.    LLOTD, 

In  tbe  Clerk's  Offloe  of  the  Distriet  Conrt  of  the  United  States,  In  and  for  the 
Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


pbilaoblphia: 

rebbottped  bt  oeorob  obabiibs. 

vbirtbd  bt  xuto  *  baibo 


•I 


'W 


#'^ 


PREFACE. 


<•»»»- 


tlM 


It  has  been  a  cause  of  deep  regret  with  the  author  and 
publisher  of  this  Narrative,  that  the  circumstances  referred 
to  in  the  last  chapter  of  the  book,  have  delayed  the  publi- 
cation. As  some  passages  in  this  volume  are  very  much 
at  variance  with  the  common  accounts  we  have  of  the 
temper  and  character  of  Dr.  Kane,  and  likewise  reflect 
somewhat  on  his  conduct  as  a  Naval  Commander,  it  would 
have  been  more  satisfactory  if  these  charges  had  appeared 
during  the  Doctor's  lifetime.  But  the  explanations  given 
by  Godfrey  himself  show  that  the  earlier  publication  of  his 
book  was  impossible  ;  however  anxiously  he  might  desire 
to  vindicate  himself,  and  to  remove  the  stains  affixed  to  his 
character  by  the  unfavorable  mention  made  of  him  in  Dr. 
Kane's  book.  It  may  be  remarked  that,  if  Dr.  Kane 
were  now  living,  he  could  not  repel  Godfrey's  charges 
without  a  negation  of  his  own  statements.  He  has.  fully 
admitted,  in  his  journal,  the  most  material  facts  connected 
with  that  extraordinary  affair — the  attempt  to  take  God- 
frey's life.  He  has  not  only  related  those  facts  distinctly, 
and  with  very  little  difference  from  Godfrey's  own  account ; 
but  he  has  related  them  in  a  manner  which  seems  to  call 
for  public  approbation.    This  last-mentioned  circumstance 


■«:-"■ 


1-., 


FREFAOB. 


satisfies  as  that  Dr.  Kane  thought  that  he  was  doing  his 
duty  on  that  occasion.  Perhaps  very  few  persons  who 
read  his  book  attentively  will  come  to  the  same  conclusion. 
The  circumstances  to  be  considered  in  connection  with  this 
matter  are  :  1.  That  Godfrey  had  formerly  been  dismissed 
by  his  Commander,  with  permission  to  return  to  the  Tj  nited 
States.  Did  this  permission  release  him  from  his  compact 
to  serve  for  a  certain  term  on  board  of  the  Advance  9  2. 
When,  under  the  pressure  of  starvation,  he  returned  with 
his  companions,  to  solicit  relief  from  Dr.  Kane,  did  this 
return  renew  his  original  obligations  and  restore  him  to  his 
former  position  on  board  of  the  vessel  ?  3.  Could  he  rea- 
sonably be  suspected  of  an  intention  to  desert  in  such  a 
country  as  Northern  Greenland  and  in  the  midst  of  an  Arctic 
winter  ?  If  he  did  desert,  in  such  circumstances,  would 
his  example  be  likely  to  be  followed  by  others  of  the  brig's 
company  ?  4.  Was  his  return  to  the  vessel  with^a  load  of 
provisions  such  an  act  as  might  be  expected  from  a  de- 
serter ?  5.  Was  the  Commander  justified  in  shooting  a  man 
for  a  mere  refusal  to  come  on  board  ?  6.  It  appears  that, 
according  to  the  contract  made  with  the  seamen  before 
their  departure  from  New  York,  the  strict  regulations  of 
the  Naval  service  were  to  be  dispensed  with  on  this  Expe- 
dition ;  the  discipline  of  the  brig  could  not,  therefore, 
justify  the  Commander  in  res<$rting  to  such  an  extreme 
measure  as  shooting  a  man  to  enforce  an  order. 

But,  as  the  time  has  past  when  Dr.  Kane  could  be  held 
responsible  for  this  net,  we  are  disposed  to  consider  it  as 
an  error  of  the  judgment ;  and  it  may  be  easier  to  excuse 
him  on  that  score  than  to  overlook  the  deliberate  wrong 
which  he  has  done  to  William  C.  Godfrey  by  making  vague 
charges  of  delinquency  against  this  man,  who  appears,  even 


-    f 


PBEFAOB. 


V 

t 

< 
I 

i\ 
t 

! 


i 


ae 


from  the  Doctor's  own  statements,  to  nave  oeen  the  constant 
friend  and  benefactor  of  the  whole  brig's  company. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  Godfrey  appears,  in  the 
Doctor's  narrative,  only  as  a  half-pardoned  criminal,  even 
when  accounts  are  given  of  signal  services  performed  by 
him  at  the  imminent  hazard  of  his  own  life  !  And  yet  we 
have  found  scarcely  any  specification  of  a  fault  of  sufficient 
magnitude  to  call  for  a  private  rej^rimand ;  nevertheless, 
this  unfortunate  person  has  been  rebuked  by  his  command- 
ing officer  before  the  whole  world,  and  he  may  even  be 
handed  down  to  posterity  as  an  object  of  distrust  and 
abhorrence. 

The  death  of  Dr.  Kane  does  not  make  it  less  incumbent 
on  our  author  to  clear  himself  from  undeserved  censure.  If 
any  of  the  Doctor's  fellow-voyagers,  who  profess  so  much 
love  and  reverence  for  the  Doctor's  memory,  can  show  how 
Godfrey  merited  the  harsh  treatment  he  has  received,  they 
can  do  so  as  easily  as  Dr.  Kane  himself  could,  if  he  were 

now  alive. 

...  -  f 

Although  the  two  parties  to  this  singular  controversy 
occupied  very  different  positions  on  board  of  the  exploring 
brig  Advance,  at  the  bar  of  the  American  public  there  is 
no  recognizable  distinction  between  Elisha  K.  Kane  ar'i 
William  C.  Godfrey.  We  feel  confident  that  the  decisioii 
of  the  public  in  this  case  will  be  in  accordance  with  the 
dictates  of  "even-handed  justice." 

The  merits  of  this  work,  as  a  complete  and  circumstantial 
history  of  the  last  Arctic  Exploring  Expedition,  will  be 
acknowledged,  we  think,  by  every  candid  and  intelligent 
reader.  . 

Philadelphia,  May  30,  1851. 


m 


-^. 


.tf,; 


4-1 


^ 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
A  common  Bailor's  motives  for  going  on  a  Polar  Expedition 
— The  Author's  particular  inducement — No  hope  of  glory 
or  pecuniary  profit — Hia  anticipations  of  perils  and  suffer- 
ings— His  reliance  on  his  physical  energies — The  fate  of 
the  Arctic  yoyagers — Dr.  Kane's  unhappy  destiny — His 
funeral  honors — Reports  concerning  them — The  Author's 
vindication — ^His  reasons  for  writing  a  book, 17 

CHAPTER    II. 

Object  of  the  Expedition — Where  the  exploration  was  to  be 
carried  on — Greenland — A  frightful  country — Land  travel- 
ing in  the  Polar  regions — Dog  sledges — Navigation  of  the 
icy  seas — Dangerous  sailing — The  Author's  views  respect- 
ing the  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  party — Tribute 
to  Lady  Franklin — ^The  absurdities  of  Arctic  explorations 
•—Queer  fancy  of  a  great  explorer — The  Author's  plebeian 
notions, 23 


■■4-' 


■  i 

r 


1 


CHAPTER    m. 

The  voyage  begun— Public  demonstrations — The  Author's 
emotions — He  alludes  to  an  affair  of  the  heart— Catalogue 
of  the  officers  and  crew — The  exploring  brig,  Advance^ 
proceeds  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland — The  officers  and 
orew  lionized — Tne  voyage  continued — Arrival  at  Fisker- 
naes  —  Hospitable  reception — The  Esquimaux — Their 
comical  appearance— Their  peculiarities  of  character- 
Hans  Christian,  the  commander's  pet, 31 

(9) 


0ONTENT8. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
Fiskernaei — ^The  Author's  hard  servioe — Visit  to  n  MordfTinn 
mission  house — Two  queer  old  missionaries — Suoertoppen 
^Its  magnificent  peaks — Arrival  at  Proven — Grand  fancy 
ball— The  Amerioan  sailors  danoe  for  the  honor  of  thoir' 
oountry— The  Author  invited  to  open  a  dancing  school — 
His  qualifications— We  proceed  to  Upernavick— The  town 
and  its  inhabitants — Mr.  Petersen, 41 

CHAPTER    V. 

We  leare  XJpemayick  and  bid  adieu  to  the  habitable  world-— 
The  Devil's  Nip — Icebergs — Their  magnificence  and  sub- 
limity— Rooks  imbedded  in  their  sides — This  phenomenon 
accounted  for— > The  Author's  moonlight  musings  —  A 
strange  fancy — Our  brig  in  danger — Miraculous  escape — 
Towed  by  an  iceberg — Arrival  at  Hakluyt  Island — Dr. 
Kane  and  the  Author  catch  a  cold  duck, 48 


CHAPTER  VI. 
Mr.  William  Mortoi^'s  famous  discovery — The  Author's  mis* 
givings  on  the  subject — Visionary  mistakes  and  hallucina- 
tions of  Arctic  travelers — ^Blood-stained  snow — No  ac- 
counting for  the  phenomenon — We  enter  Smith's  Sound 
and  meet  with  great  obstacles — The  Author's  peculiar 
hardships — His  unpopularity  among  the  officers — Hints 
for  American  seamen, 


58 


CHAPTER  VII. 
We  visit  a  desolate  island — Melancholy  signs  of  former  in- 
habitants— ^We  are  frozen  up — ^Extricate  ourselves  by  hard 
labor — Anchor  under  God-send  ledge — Terrific  storm — 
Desperate  Hituation  of  the  Advance — A  bold  expedient — 
We  are  again  towed  by  an  iceberg — Our  miraculous  de- 
liverance— Probable  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 64 


CHAPTER    VIII.      . 

Abatement  of  the  storm — Repairing  damages — ^Dr.  Kane  and 

several  other  persons  get  adrift — ^The  Author  goes  to  their 

assistance — ^A  golden  opportunity  lost— The  commander's 

projects — A  consultation  of  the  whole  brig's  company—^ 


CONTENTS. 


11 


Tho  Author  makes  a  speech  which  Mtonishes  and  dis- 
please! the  officers — lie  is  suspected  of  a  mutinous  dispo- 
sition,      72 


41 


-i.' 


CHAPTER    IX. 

The  Advance  proceeds  further  northward — Hard  work  for 
the  sailors — The  Author  and  several  others  of  the  crew 
start  on  a  sledge  journey — They  hreak  through  the  ice — 
Severe  sufferings — Hydropathy — Sleeping  in  ice— Trouble- 
some cooking — Ascent  of  an  iceberg — A  singular  fox-hunt 
— A  prize  secured — Great  rejoicings— ^Account  of  the  blue 
fox-— Its  valuable  fur,  etc., 81 


48 


'  CHAPTER  X. 
What  our  sledge  party  discovered — No  open  Polar  sei^— 
Alarming  condition  of  the  travelers — An  audacious  fox-— 
The  Author's  power  of  endurance — Several  of  his  com- 
panions in  despair — They  are  in  danger  of  freezing  to 
death — Their  inclination  to  go  to  sleep — Suffering  makes 
them  insane — Provisions  exhausted — Miraculous  preserva* 
tion, ....••. 


92 


58 


■ 


64 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Our  sledge  party  return  to  the  Lrig — ^We  find  the  Advance 
in  her  winter  harbor — Preparations  for  the  dark  season- 
Strange  fancy  of  the  dogs— Their  troublesome  behaviors- 
Why  they  like  human  society — The  Author's  objections  to 
dogs  as  draught  animals — Another  sledge  jourhey — Hor- 
rors of  the  Arctic  winter — Dr.  Kane's  warlike  demonstra- 
tion against  tho  rats, 1(M 

CHAPTER    XII. 

TerminatioTi  of  the  dark  season — Grand  jubilee — ^An  ex- 
ploring party — Inauspicious  beginning  of  the  journey^ 
Our  traveling  costume — Gloomy  anticipations  of  the  tra- 
velers— The  Author's  pet  fox — His  great  achievements 
among  the  rats — ^A  suggestion  fbr  sporting  gentlemen — 
Singular  rat  trap — Sad  intelligence  from  the  exploring 
party 112 


* 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  Xin. 
Dr.  Kane  and  several  men  go  to  the  relief  of  the  persons 
supposed  to  be  dying — Slow  and  troublesome  traveliug— 
Ohlsen's  noble  conduct— He  walks  twenty  miles  without 
any  toes— Dr.  Kane's  sufferings — His  life  in  danger — We 
reach  the  tent  where  our  sick  companions  are  lying — Their 
miraculous  preservation  from  death — ^Dr.  Kane's  prayer,..  120 


4r- 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
A  terrible  journey  over  the  ice — Suicidal  drowsiness  of  our 
people— They  become  desperately  somnolent — Dr.  Kane 
and  the  Author  travel  by  themselves — The  Doctor's  vision 
of  a  bear — The  Author's  troublesome  duties — He  carries 
the  doctor  on  his  shoulder — The  Doctor  mistakes  him  for 
a  bear — The  Author  shaves  the  Doctor  with  a  jack-knive 
—Strange  fact  respecting  spirituous  liquors, 129 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Return  of  the  rescue  party — Our  great  danger  and  providen- 
tial deliverance — The  whole  company  become  delirious—  „ 
Strange  phases  of  insanity — The  Author's  feelings  of  des- 
peration— Terrible  sufferings  of  his  half-frozen  comprtnions 
— Arrival  at  the  brig — Death  and  burial  of  Schubert  and 
Baker — We  are  visited  by  savage  Esquimaux — Hans  Chris- 
tian's romantic  love  affair, 139 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

Dr.  Hayes  and  the  Author  cross  Smith's  Sound — ^Trouble! 
and  disasters — Successful  explorations — Horrors  of  star- 
vation— The  Author's  boots  and  breeches  used  for  feeding 
dogs — Hard  fare — The  grand  excursion  of  the  season-— 
Sickness  prevails — Dangerous  illness  of  Dr.  Kane — Bears 
steal  our  provisions — Our  desperate  cpndition— We  are 
obliged  to  turn  back — Various  afflictions, 147 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Several  traveling  parties  sent  out — Their  ill  success — Morton 
and  Hans  Christian  travel  northward — Their  famous  dis- 
coveries— A  separation  of  our  company — The  Author,  with 
seven  companions,  permitted  to  leave  the  brig — They  tra- 


CONTENTS.  W 

vel  southward — Are  overtaken  by  the  winter — Thoir  un- 
paralleled sufferings  from  cold  and  famine — The  Autliur 
visits  an  Esquimaux  settlement — The  generosity  and  be- 
nevolence of  these  "barbarians" — Their  houses,  modes 
of  living,  etc., 155 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
The  Author  and  his  party  endure  all  the  horrors  of  faniir^ 
They  resolve  to  return  to  the  brig^^The  Author's  reluct- 
ance to  go  back — He  complies  with  the  wishes  of  the  ma- 
jority— Another  troublesome  journey — The  Esquimaux 
try  to  out-yankee  the  Yankees-^They  miss  their  figure — 
Virtues  of  "  Godfrey's  Cordial" — The  Author's  success- 
ful stratagem, * 166 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
The  wanderers  return  to  the  brig*^Some  of  them  are  taken 
sick — Dr.  Hayes  has  his  toes  cut  off^Starvation  on  ship- 
board— Prevalence  of  the  scurvy<^The  men  dying  for  want 
(^  fresh  provisions — Several  parties  sent  out  to  procure 
food — The  cold  drives  them  back'>^The  Author's  solitary 
journey  of  ninety*five  miles— His  daring  enterprise  suc- 
ceeds— He  obtains  a  supply  of  fresh  meat — More  of  Hans 
Christian's  love  affair, ,.  177 


CHAPTER  XX. 
The  Author  returns  to  the  brig  with  a  load  of  fresh  meat — 
His  warm  reception->-'He  becomes  a  target  for  pistol  and 
rifle  praotice^^Refuses  to  come  on  board — Dr.  Kane  and 
Bonsoll  try  to  compel  him — He  treats  the  doctor  disrespect-  < 
fully  and  retires  under  a  galling  fire->-His  desperate  jour- 
ney back  to  Etah— He  is  overpowered  by  the  cold,  and 
sinks  down  in  a  snow-drift— His  providential  escape, 185 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

Hans  Christian  proves  that  fear  can  make  a  man  sick  as  weP 
as  love— Godfrey  continues  to  supply  the  brig's  company 
with  provisions — ^Dr.  Kane  sends  another  order  for  him  to 
come  on  board — He  disobeys — The  Doctor  comes  ai|er 
him — An  exciting  dialogue  between  Kane  and  Qodfrey>ix- 
2  '% 


14 


CONTENTS. 


When  threats  fail,  Qodfrey  yields  to  persuasion — He  re- 
turns to  the  brig,  and  meets  with  a  cordial  reception  from 
his  comrades, 192 

i» 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
Dr.  Kane's  nnfavorable  notice  of  Godfrey — Charge  of  deser- 
tion and  mutiny — Godfrey's  defense— Comments  of  the 
North  British  Beview-^Th&t  periodical  condemns  Dr.  Kane 
and  exculpates  Godfrey — Godfrey  submits  his  case  to  the 
arbitration  of  public  opinion — A  -warning  to  oppressors,. .  202 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
The  Author  goep  on  another  provision-hunting  expedition- 
He  chases  a  bear->-Mutiny  among  his  dogs — He  shoots  a 
seal  and  satisJSes.the  demands  of  the  canine  mutineers — 
Scarcity  of  provisions  at  Etah — The  Author  extends  his 
journey  to  another  settlement— Meets  with  the  men  who 
took  "  Godfrey's  Cordial" — Their  appreciation  of  the  joke 
—A  bear  fight — ^Various  adventures — Godfrey  returns  to 
he  brig  with  a  load  of  fresh  meat, 209 

m 

CFAPTER  XXIV. 
Final  abandc  ment  of  the  brig  Advance — Her  probable  fate 
— Commencement  of  a  sledge  and  boat  journey — Hercu- 
lean labors  and  slow  progress — Elopement  of  Hans  Chris- 
tian— Fatal  accident — Death  and  burial  of  Mr.  Ohlsen,  the 
carpenter — Scarcity  of  provisions — Robbery  of  duck  nests 
— Slaughter  qi  sea-fowl — ^We  meet  a  Danish  boat — Arrival 
at  Upernavick — Our  reception — Embarkation  for  the 
United  States— Arrival  at  New  York 219 


CHAPTER    XXV. 

Concluding  observations— The  Author's  unfortunate  posi- 
tion— Results  of  the  Grinnell  expedition— What  was  dis- 
covered—Explorations of  the  coast — Important  additions 
to  geographical  science^Meteorological  observations — The 
open  Polar  sea — Suggestions  by  the  Author — He  expresses 
his  willingness  to  join  another  expedition,.. *.,,  227 


BioQSAPHiCAL  Sketch  of  Dr.  Elisha  K.  Kanb,. 


235 


.^i*. 


le  re- 
1  from 


192 


deser- 
>f  the 
Kane 
to  the 
)r8,..  202 


lOB— 

>ot8  a 
era — 
8  his 
who 
joke 
ns  to 
....  209 


t 


fate 
arcu- 
hris- 
,  the 
lestg 
rival 

the 
....  219 


>osi- 
dis- 
ions 

The       f 
ssee 
...  227 

•  •  •    Jni& 


w 


■i^'-:. 


V 


:'iA, 


r 


WM.  C.  GODFREY. 


GODFREY'S    NARRATIVE 


01  THB 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


■*  m 


^  <  f  >•» 


^' 


.#■' 


x. 


CHAPTER    I.        ^ 

A  COMMON  sailor's  MOTIVES  FOR  GOING  ON  A  POLAR 
EXPEDITION — ^THB  AUTHOR*S  PARTICULAR  INDUCE- 
MENT— NO  HOPE  OP  GLORY  OR  PECUNIARY  PROFIT — 
HIS  ANTICIPATIONS  OF  PERILS  AND  SUFFERINGS — HIS 
RELIANCE  ON  HIS  PHYSICAL  ENERGIES — ^THE  FATE  OF 
THE  ARCTIC  VOYAGERS — DR.  EANE*S  UNHAPPY  DES- 
TINY— ^HIS  FUNERAL  HONORS — REPORTS  CONCERNING 
THEM — ^THB    AUTHOR'S    VINDICATION— HIS    REASONS 

FOR  WRITING  A  BOOK. 

) 

It  is  not  very  easy  for  people  in  general  to  under- 
stand the  motives  which  impel  some  men  to  undertake 
toilsome  and  dangerous  enterprises,  without  much  reiij^ 
Bonable  expectation  of  fame  or  profit.     In  explorin*^  ' 
expeditions,  as  well  as  in  warfare,  the  commander  and 
,  ■  '  .  (IT) 


18 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  01*  THE 


i: 


his  principal  officers  obtain  nearly  all  the  credit ;  and, 
if  there  are  any  emoluments  or  spoils,  they  commonly 
have  the  *^  lion's  share"  of  these  also.  I  have  nothing 
to  say  against  the  propriety  and  justice  of  this  arrange- 
ment ;  but  while  the  honors  and  rewards  due  to  great 
undertakings  are  distributed  in  the  manner  just  speci- 
fied, it  may  be  dilBicult  for  some  people  to  conceive 
why  any  man  should  consent  to  play  a  subordinate 
part  in  those  undertakings — assuming  a  full  share  of 
the  dangers  and  inconveniences  thereof — without  any 
prospect  of  celebrity  or  pecuniary  recompense. 

In  the  last  arctic  voyage  of  Dr.  £.  K.  Kane  and  his 
company,  I  served  on  board  of  the  exploring  brig, 
*' Advance"  in  the  humble  situation  of  a  sailor  ^* before 
the  mast."  Or,  to  speak  more  correctly,  I  shipped 
with  the  understanding  that  I  should  be  required  to 
perform  the  duties  which  properly  belong  to  that  ob- 
scure station.  Thus  far  the  agreement  was  punctually 
fulfilled  by  the  contracting  parties  on  both  sides ;  for 
I  received  the  regular  wages  of  a  man  before  the  mast, 
and  nothing  more ;  and  I  executed  all  the  tasks  which 
a  seaman  in  my  situation  could  be  expected  to  perform, 
to  say  nothing  of  many  other  tasks  and  services  which 
were  purely  gratuitous  on  my  part. 

In  order  to  become  an  arctic  sailor,  with  the  pay  of 
eighteen  dollars  per  month,  I  quitted  a  far  more  agree- 
able employment,  which  afforded  me  more  than  three 
times  the  amount  of  compensation  just  mentioned. 
This,  of  course,  will  be  considered  as  a  fair  example  of 
that  worldly  wisdom  for  which  sailors  are  not  remark- 


•  .;« 


3 


■^4 


H 


V-. 


OBINNELL  EXPLORIKQ  EXPEDITION. 


19 


;;  and, 
nmonly 
Qothing 
rrange- 
io  great 
t  speci- 
lonceive 
>rdinate 
hare  of 
out  any 

and  his 
g  trig, 
"hefore 
shipped 
lired  to 
hat  ob- 
ictually 
es ;  for 
e  mast, 
s  ivhich 
erform, 
B  which 

pay  of 
agree- 
n  three 
tioned. 
aple  of 
emark- 


able ;  but  it  would  be  doing  some  injustice  to  Jack's 
general  reputation  to  make  my  individual  imprudence 
a  mere  illustration  of  a  professional  trait,  seeing  that 
I  was  not  a  regularly  trained  seaman,  but  adopted  tlie 
mariner's  vocatioft  only  as  the  means  of  gratifying  my 
unconquerable  love  of  adventure.  When  I  determined 
on  making  a  voyage  to  the  polar  regions,  I  had  no 
thought  of  acquiring  glori/,  no  notion  of  writing  a  book 
of  travels  after  my  return,  no  expectation  of  seeing  my 
name  in  print ;  and  could  I  have  entertained  such  fan- 
cies, thei/  would  not  have  been  a  sufficient  inducement 
for  me  to  submit  to  all  the  risks  and  sacrifices  which 
this  voyage  would  require.  To  come  to  the  point  at 
once,  I  was  led,  by  a  romantic  taste  for  whatever  is 
strange  and  marvelous,  to  visit  a  region  which  seemed 
to  be  enshrouded  in  mystery,  and  which  was  supposed 
to  contain  many  scenes  and  objects  that  have  no  coun- 
terparts in  any  other  quarter  of  the  world.  In  addi- 
tion to  this  motive,  a  feeling  of  national  pride  and  pa- 
triotic enthusiasm  prompted  me  to  assist  in  an  enter- 
prise which,  as  I  believed,  would  add  new  lustre  to  the 
glory  of  my  country.       , .  , 

I  expected  to  meet  with  many  dangers  and  hard- 
ships in  my  arctic  travels,  but  these  anticipations  gave 
me  little  uneasiness ;  for  I  placed  much  reliance  on  my 
personal  strength  and  prowess,  and  on  my  powers  of 
endurance.  Nature  had  given  me  a  tall  and  muscular 
frame,  and  habit  had  inured  me  to  the  extremes  of  heat 
and  cold.  I  felt  an  assurance,  therefore,  that  I  should 
be  able  to  perform  all  the  labors,  and  to  endure  all  the 


20 


QODFBETS  NABRATIYS  07  THE 


1! 


hardships,  which  my  duty  as  an  arotio  sailor  would  im- 
pose on  me. 

It  is  needless  to  deny  that  there  was  somewhat  of 
youthful  audacity,  somewhat  of  a  restless  craving  after 
novelty  and  change,  mingled  with  the  better  impulses 
which  engaged  me  in  this  enterprise,  the  results  of 
which  have  been  calamitous  to  some  of  my  fellow-ad- 
venturers, and  particularly  so  to  our  commander  him- 
self. Possibly  some  of  us  may  have  been  made  wiser 
and  better  men  by  the  lessons  of  adversity  which  we 
received  during  our  wanderings  in  the  realms  of  per- 
petual ice ;  but  (moral  and  mental  improvement  out  of 
the  question)  I  do  not  know  that  any  of  us  received 
much  individual  benefit  from  the  voyage.  Several  of 
my  comrades  lost  their  lives,  in  consequence  of  their 
unparalleled  sufferings  in  the  polar  climes.  Dr.  Hayes 
lost  his  toes,  which  were  frozen  and  afterward  ampu- 
tated; and  two  or  three  others  of  our  company  met 
with  similar  misfortunes.  But  my  loss  appears  to  be  the 
most  afflictive  of  all ;  for  I  find,  with  equal  sorrow  and 
surprise,  that  I  have  lost  some  reputation  by  my  con- 
nection with  this  enterprise.  On  this  painful  topic,  I 
shall  have  more  to  say  hereafter.  i 

Dr.  Kane  himself  was  singularly  unfortunate;  al- 
though, in  some  respects,  he  appeared  to  be  most 
highly  favored.  It  is  stated  that  some  booksellers  have 
reaped  immense  profits  from  the  sale  of  his  narrative ; 
and  they  are  probably  the  only  persons  to  whom  this 
arctic  voyage  has  been  profitable,  so  far  as  money 
matters  are  concerned.    Dr.  Kane,  as  I  understand, 


■Miiw 


GRINNELL  BXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 


21 


mid  im- 

what  of 
ng  after 
mpulses 
mlts  of 
Uow-ad- 
er  him- 
ie  wiser 
^hich  we 
of  per- 
t  out  of 
received 
ireral  of 
of  their 
1.  Hayes 
ampu- 
ny  met 
[>  be  the 
ow  and 
ny  con- 
topic,  I 

te;  al- 
9  most 
rs  hare 
rative ; 
tm  this 
money 
stand, 


was  but  indifferently  remunerated,  in  any  way,  (except- 
ing the  complimentary  notices  of  the  newspaper  press), 
for  the  eminent  services  he  undoubtedly  rendered  to 
the  public.  His  untimely  death  gave  his  countrymen 
an  opportunity  to  express  their  gratitude  by  funereal 
demonstrations ;  and  I  should  speak  of  his  obsequies 
with  unalloyed  gratification,  were  it  not  commonly  re- 
ported and  believed  that  even  these  '^  empty  honors 
to  the  dead,"  were  contrived  by  speculating  ingenuity 
to  answw  the  purpose  of  an  advertisement,  and  to  pro- 
mote the  sale  of  a  book  I 

I  have  hinted,  somewhere  above,  that  when  I  com- 
menced my  voyage  to  the  frozen  ocean,  I  had  no  in- 
tention of  embarking  afterward  on  the  still  more  cheer- 
less sea  of  authorship.  Such  a  project  as  writing  a 
book  never  presented  itself  to  my  mind  until  I  discov- 
ered that  my  conduct  as  a  seaman,  and  my  moral  cha- 
racter itself,  had  been,  in  some  measure,  assailed  by 
publications  already  made.  I  hope  that  the  public  is 
disposed  to  believe  that  the  reputation  of  a  "  common 
sailor"  may  be  of  some  value — to  himself,  at  least — es- 
pecially if  it  is  his  sole  inheritance  and  the  sum  total 
of  his  earthly  possessions.  I  complain  not  of  the  nega- 
tive injustice  which  may  have  been  done  me  by  with- 
holding the  credit  to  which  I  consider  my  services 
fairly  entitled,  but  I  consider  myself  bound  to  repel 
any  statements  which  may  be  construed  as  affecting 
my  character  as  a  man  and  a  seaman. 

Nevertheless,  I  do  not  flatter  myself  that  the  vin- 
dication of  an  obscure  individual  like  myself  would  ob- 


#;■■ 


22 


Godfrey's  nabratiyb  of  thb 


ta/n  the  ear  of  the  public,  if  unaccompanied  by  matters 
of  greater  importance  and  more  general  interest.  I 
have,  therefore,  prepared  a  narrative  of  the  events  of 
the  Grinnell  Exploring  Expedition,  which  I  can  consci- 
entiously recommend  to  the  public  as  a  faithful  and 
true  account  of  that  enterprise ;  and,  in  some  respects, 
the  most  complete  account  that  has  ever  been  pub- 
lished. No  one  can  deny  that  the  several  narratives 
of  this  expedition  which  have  already  appeared,  are 
somewhat  contradictory  and  irreconcilable,  yj.  have  no 
doubt,  or  I  wish  to  believe,  that  the  authors  of  these 
various  narratives  intended  to  relate  facts  as  they  oc- 
cured ;  but,  in  some  instances,  their  memories  appear 
to  have  failed  them,  or  they  were  not  correctly  in* 
formed  in  relation  to  matters  which  did  not  come  under 
their  own  personal  observation.  During  the  whole  pro* 
cess  of  exploration  by  Dr.  Kane's  party,  I  was  engaged, 
without  intermission,  in  the  most  active  duties.  I  was, 
therefore,  an  eye-witness  of  almost  every  important 
event  connected  with  these  explorations.  I  have  no 
motive  for  misrepresentation ;  and  I  believe  that  my 
memory  is  sufficiently  retentive  to  enable  me  to  relate 
every  notable  adventure  of  our  party  precisely  as  it 
took  place.  At  all  events,  I  shall  be  careful  to  do  no 
injustice  to  any  man,  living  or  dead,  in  the  course  of 
my  recitaL 


'*. 


i 


QBINNELL  EXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 


23 


CHAPTER    II. 

OBJECT  OF  THE  EXPEDITION — WHERE  THE  EXPLORATION 
WAS  TO  BE  CARRIED  ON — GREENLAND — A  FRIGHTFUL 
COUNTRY — LAND  TRAVELING  IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS 
— DOG  SLEDGES — NAVIGATION  OF  THE  ICY  SEAS — DAN- 
GEROUS SAILING — THE  AUTHOR'S  VIEWS  RESPECTING 
THE  FATE  OF  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN  AND  HIS  PARTY — 
TRIBUTE  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN — THE  ABSURDITIES  OF 
ARCTIC  EXPLORATION — QUEER  FANCY  OF  A  GREAT  EX- 
PLORER— THE  author's  PLEBEIAN  NOTIONS. 


Before  I  begin  my  narrative  of  the  Grinnell  Explor. 
ing  Expedition,  I  wish  to  give  the  reader  a  clear  under 
!  stauding  of  its  objects.  Ostensibly,  the  principal  de^ 
sign  was  to  search  after  the  missing  navigator.  Sir 
John  Franklin,  concerning  whose  "  mysterious  fate"  so 
much  has  been  said  and  written,  and  in  whose  behalf  an 
abundance  of  public  sympathy  and  many  thousands  of^ 
dollars  have  been  expended  tp  little  or  no  purpose.  It 
was  conjectured  that  "Eranklin  and  his  companions,  or 
their  mortal  remains,  might  be  found  in  some  part  of 
Greenland,  or  in  the  adjacent  seas;  and  accordingly 
those  localities  were  to  be  the  scenes  of  our  exploring 
operations.  Greenland  is  an  extensive  region,  which, 
for  the  most  part,  is  a  mass  of  rocks,  interspersed  with 


s 


94 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THS 


glaciers  or  rivers  of  ice,  which  have  a  slow  progressive 
motion  toward  the  sea.  The  most  southern  point  of 
Greenland  is  Cape  Farewell,  in  lat.  69''  49',  Ion.  48° 
54'.  Concerning  the  northern  and  eastern  coasts,  very 
little  is  known.  Greenland  was  formerly  supposed  to 
be  a  peninsula  attached  to  an  arctic  continent;  but 
recent  discoveries  make  it  appear  that  this  region  is  a 
group  of  two  or  three  large  islands,  surrounded  by 
several  smaller  ones.  The  neighboring  seas,  bays,  and 
sounds  are,  at  all  seasons,  more  or  less  encumbered 
with  ice ;  and,  at  some  particular  times  in  the  year, 
are  totally  unnavigable.  The  climate  of  Greenland  is 
intensely  cold,  especially  in  the  more  northern  lati- 
tudes, and  during  the  arctic  night,  which  lasts  for  seve- 
ral months.  Greenland  belongs  to  the  Danish  govern- 
ment, which  has  several  trading  stations  on  different 
parts  of  the  coast.  There  are  many  Exquimaux  settle- 
ments scattered  over  the  country.  Some  of  the  Es- 
quimaux are  partly  civilized,  having  become  so  by  con- 
stant intercourse  with  the  Danish  settlers,  who  supply 
them  with  European  commodities  in  exchange  for  skins, 
blubber,  &c. 

The  northern  parts  of  Greenland  are  not  inhabitable 
even  by  the  Esquimaux  themrselves,  who  are  fitted  by 
nature  and  habit  to  endure  more  cold  than  any  other 
human  beings  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  The  surface 
of  the  country  is  too  rough  to  afford  any  facilities  for 
traveling;  and  the  neighboring  waters  when  frozen 
over,  as  they  generally  are,  present  similar  obstacles, 
as  the  ice  is  full  of  boulders,  hummocks,  bergs,  and 


-m- 


^ 


GRINNELL   EXPLOtllNO   EXPEDIT10!>r.  If 

Other  obstructions.  The  usual  mode  of  traveling  on 
h  .id  and  on  the'  ice  is  in  sledges  drawn  by  dogs.  No 
other  vehicle  and  no  other  draught  animals  could  be 
used,  probably,  in  these  localities ;  and  the  dog-sledgo 
conveyance  itself  is  liable  to  many  inconveniences. 
The  Esquimaux  dog,  used  for  this  purpose,  is  neither 
large  nor  powerful.  A  team  of  six  or  eight  dogs  can 
transport  a  moderate  load  over  the  snow  or  ice,  at  the 
j  rate  of  from  fifty  to  sixty  miles  per  day,  provided  the 
[route  is  favorable;  but  when  the  track  is  very  rough, 
IS  it  often  is,  the  strength  of  the  dogs  is  wholly  unequal 
lo  the  task  of  drawing  the  fledge.  In  these  circum* 
stances,  the  driver  must  dismount  and  assist  his  team 
by  pushing  behind  and  lifting  the  sledge  over  the  ine- 
iqualities  of  the  road. 

The  navigation  of  the  polar  seas  and  sounds  is  at 
[tended  by  still  greater  diflSculties,  and  is  never  free  from 
[danger.     When  there  is  a  track  open  for  the  passage 
[of  the  ship,  it  is  generally  a  sort  of  canal  (technically 
called  a  "  lead")  with  an  icy  embankment  on  each  side, 
j  One  of  these  embankments,  called  the  "land  ice,"  is 
[usually  stationary,  being  part  of  a  large  mass  of  ice 
[many  miles  in  extent,  and  connected  with  the  shore. 
[The  other  side  of  the  canal,  or  "  lead,"  is  generally  a 
jmovable  body  of  ice,  called  a  "  floe,"  whi(#  is  often 
[driven   by  the  wind  or  tide  with   tremendous  forc« 
j  against  the  land-ice,  closing  up  the  canal  or  lai||of  ^ 
[open  water,  and  sometimes   crushing  an  unfortunate ' 
[ship  which  may  happen  to  be  sailing  therein.     The  ice 

on  both  sides  of  the  canal,  or  "  lead,"  is  often  twenty 

I  6 


-e^ 


26 


Godfrey's  narrative  op  tub 


i       ii 


or  thirty  feet  in  height,  above  the  level  of  the  water ; 
and  the  "floe,"  or  movable  body  of  it5e,'i8  commonly 
of  immense  magnitude,  bo  that  its  momentum,  when  it 
is  set  in  motion  by  the  tide  or  wind,  is  irresistible. 
The  stoutest  ship  must  inevitably  be  crushed,  if  caught 
between  the  icy  masses.  Ships  intended  for  arctic 
navigation  are  built  in  a  particular  style,  the  hull 
being  wedge-shaped,  so  that  when  pressed  on  each 
side  by  approaching  masses  of  ice,  the  vessel  is  forced 
upward,  and  thrown  on  her  beam  ends  on  one  of  the 
icy  platforms.  This  is  the  only  contrivance  which 
could  save  a  vessel  from  being  broken  to  pieces,  in 
such  circumstances. 

I  need  rot  remind  my  readers  that  the  navigation 
of  a  sea  which  is  agitated  by  powerful  winds,  is  always 
dangerous ;  but  sailing  on  an  ice-encumbered  sea,  such 
as  I  have  described,  is  perilous  in  th?  highest  degree. 
In  this  case,  you  are  surrounded  by  breakers  of  the 
most  formidable  character — breakers  of  ice  which  are 
more  to  be  dreaded  than  the  "  insidious  rock,"  because 
the  latter  lies  still,  and  may  be  avoided  by  the  skillful 
management  of  the  vessel ;  but  the  uncertain  motions 
of  the  masses  of  ice  in  the  polar  seas,  often  make  a 
collision  with  them  unavoidable.  Very  often,  the  arc- 
tic navigator  is  menaced  with  destruction  on  all  sides ; 
the  multiplicity  of  dangers  distracts  his  attention,  and 
makes  him  powerless  and  inactive  at  the  very  moment 
when  all  his  energies  should  be  aroused. 
^  In  short,  the  dangers  of  arctic  navigation  are  so 
great  and  so  complicated,  that  we  should  not  wonder 


^ 


•     .1^ 


QRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


2T 


:  the  water ; 
s  commonly 
tum,  when  it 
i  irresistible. 
3d,  if  caught 
d  for  arctic 
^le,  the  hull 
}ed  on  each 
isel  is  forced 
m  one  of  the 
ivance  which 
to  pieces,  in 

le  navigation 
ids,  is  always 
ired  sea,  such 
yhest  degree, 
jakers  of  the 
ice  which  are 
3ck,"  because 
y  the  skillful 
tain  motions 
)ften  make  a 
ten,  the  arc- 
on  all  sides ; 
ttention,  and 
very  moment 


at  any  loss  of  life  or  any  destruction  of  ships  engaged 
in  that  service;  on  the  contrary,  every  escape  of  the 
arctic  voyager  appears  to  be  almost  miraculous.  I  fear 
there  was  a  good  deal  of  insincerity  exhibited  by  those 
experienced  old  seamen,  who  affected  to  consider  that 
it  was  almost  impossible  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and 
his  company  should  have  perished  while  making  their 
polar  explorations.  My  own  limited  experience  con- 
vinces me  that  nothing  could  be  more  probable  than 
the  total  destruction  of  Franklin's  party  before  the 
expiration  of  ^heir  third  year  in  that  most  inhospitable 
climate.  If,  as  Dr.  Kane  seems  to  have  supposed, 
some  of  their  party  might  still  have  been  living  in  the 
northern  regions  of  Greenland,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
year  1853,  they  must  have  acquired  an  aptitude  for 
living  in  ice  quite  as  wonderful  as  the  salamander's 
supposed  ability  to  live  in  fire.  Granting  th|it  Frank- 
lin and  his  company  might  have  obtained  a  sufficient 
supply  of  provisions  to  maintain  themselves  for  seven 
or  eight  years  in  such  a  country  as  northern  Green- 
land, how  would  they  have  supplied  themselves  with 
fuel  and  other  appliances  to  keep  themselves  from 
freezing  in  a  climate  where  the  temperature,  for  th© 
greatest  part  of  the  time,  is  from  40°  to  55°  below  zero? 
True,  they  might  have  used  their  ships  and  boats  for 
firewood,  but  even  that  supply  would  not  have  lasted 
the  w  hole  time.  We  burned  about  half  of  the  Advance 
and  her  combustible  equipments  in  a  single  winter, 
and  with  all  that  waste  of  valuable  burning  material, 
our  men  suffered  excessively  from  the  cold. 


W 


41 


28  GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 

I  do  not  believe  that  there  was  a  single  survivor  of 
Franklin's  party  in  1853 ;  and  I  do  not  consider  that  it  is 
presumptuous  for  me  to  say-so,  in  opposition  to  the  ex- 
pressed opinions  of  some  distinguished  navigators ;  be- 
cause I  am  satisfied  that  these  *'  old  salts"  were  prompted 
to  express  such  opinions  by  the  warmth  of  their  feelings, 
and  not  by  the  sober  dictates  of  their  judgment.  A 
very  amiable  sympathy  for  Lady  Franklin,  (that  rare 
and  admirable  Penelope  of  modern  times,)  influenced 
several  experienced  naval  ofiicers,  familiar  with  the 
perils  of  arctic  travel,  to  express  hopes  which  they 
could  not  have  feltj  in  order  to  administer  consolation 
to  that  bereaved  lady  who  is  so  unwilling  to  believe  in 
her  own  widowhood. 

A  "common  sailor,"  conscious  of  his  privilege  as. an 
American  freeman,  takes  the  liberty  to  declare  his 
solemn  conviction  that  any  polar  expedition  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Frai.klin,  after  the  year  1846,  must  be 
considered  as  a  fitile  enterprise,  in  which  human  life 
was  exposed  to  unnecessary  hazard.  No  man  can  re- 
gret the  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  more  than  I  do — no 
man  can  feel  a  greater  admiration  for  the  conjugal  de- 
motion of  his  lady ;  but  I  cannot  approve  of  the  sacrifice 
0^  many  lives  in  the  prosecution  of  needless  searches 
which  can  afi'ord  no  relief  to  the  lost  commander,  ani 
no  satisfaction  to  his  widow,  whose  agonizing  suspense 
is  merely  protracted  by  these  unprofitable  inquiries. 
^  I  strongly  suspect  that  the  most  distinguished  arctic 
navigators  have  generally  been  men  of  ardent  tempera- 
ment, whose  generous  enthusiasm  more  than  counter- 


^BP  . 


• 


ORINNELL  EXPLORINO  EXPEDITION. 


29 


I 


balanced  their  rational  and  reflective  powers.  It  is 
impossible,  in  any  other  way,  to  account  for  the  reck- 
less hardihood  with  which  these  undertakings  have  been 
repeated,  in  pursuit  of  objects  which  were  too  evidently 
unattainable,  and  which,  if  accomplished,  might  not 
have  been  of  sufficient  value  and  importance  to  deserve 
the  efforts  which  have  been  made  for  their  attainment. 
Of  course,  in  this  connection,  I  do  not  speak  of  the 
search  after  Capt.  Franklin,  for  that  was  an  object  on 
which  too  much  time,  labor,  and  money  qould  not  be 
expended,  while  there  was  any  hope  of  success.  But 
the  arctic  seas  have  been  explored  for  several  other 
objects,  not  one  of  which,  if  attained,  could  have  been 
of  much  practical  utility  to  mankind,  on  account  of  the 
difficulties  which  beset  the  navigator  of  those  seas 
at  every  stage  of  his  progress.  The  discovery  of  a 
shorter  route  to  the  East  Indies,  via  the  Arctic  seas, 
is  the  most  rational  object  that  ever  engaged  the  atten- 
tion of  polar  navigators ;  but  what  would  avail  a  shorter 
route,  if  it  were  found  to  be  impracticable,  or  if  tra- 
velers by  the  new  route  were  liable  to  be  frozen  up  for 
two  or  three  years  while  on  their  passage  ? 

One  of  the  arctic  explorers  (Capt.  Parry)  considers 
that  the  successful  navigator  of  the  icy  ocean  would 
be  well  remunerated  for  all  his  toils  and  dangers,  by 
having  it  in  his  power  to  boast  that  he  had  placed  his 
foot  on  the  pivot  of  the  earth's  axis !  I  have  seen  the 
time  (while  journeying  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  pole) 
when  it  would  have  pleased  me  much  better  to  place 
ny  foot  on  a  warm  stove-plate,  or  in  a  pile  of  hot 


i 


i 

■ 


30 


GODFREYS  ^ARRAT1V%I  OF  THE 


ashes,  than  to  have  accoinplished  that  object,  which 
appears  to  have  been  the  apex  of  Captain  Parry's  am- 
bition. But  I  am  a  plebeian — a  mere  Jack-tar — and 
of  course  cannot  be  expected  to  appreciate  the  noble 
aspirations  of  an  accomplished  gentleman  and  a  naval 
officer  of  high  rank,  like  Captain  Parrj. 


.       -i 


■■-  'i 


•* 


■-^^-yv,  :'m 


«: 


^t 


QBINNELL  EXPLOniNa   EXPEDITION. 


31 


ject,  "which 
*arry*s  am- 
k-tar — and 
I  the  noble 
nd  a  naval 


''■■  '<- 


. ,.,  ■( 


--*'iai 


CHAPTER    III. 

THE  VOYAGE  BEGUN — PUBLIC  DEMONSTRATIONS — THE 
author's  EMOTIONS— he  ALLUDES  TO  AN  AFFAIR 
OP  THE  HEART — CATALOGUE  OF  THE  OFFICERS  AND 
CREW — THE*  EXPLORING  BRIG  ADVANCE  PROCEEDS 
TO  ST.  JOHN'S,  NEWFOUNDLAND — THE  OFFICERS  AND 
CREW  LIONIZED — THE  VOYAGE  CONTINUED — ARRIVAL 
AT  FISKERNAES — HOSPITABLE  RECEPTION — THE  ES- 
QUIMAUX— THEIR  COMICAL  APPEARANCE— THEIR  PE- 
CULIARITIES OF  CHARACTER — HANS  CHRISTIAN,  THE 
commander's   PET. 


On  the  memorable  30th  day  of  May,  1853,  the  ex- 
ploring brig  Advance^  fitted  out  at  the  expense  of  Mr. 
Henry  Grinnell,  and  under  the  command  of  Dr.  E.  K. 
Kane,  of  the  United  States  Navy,  started  on  her  last 
voyage  from  New  York.  The  wharves  were  crowded 
with  spectators  to  witness  her  departure ;  the  air  re- 
sounded with  huzzas  and  the  strains  of  martial  music — 
the  valedictory  greetings  of  our.  fellow-countrymen, 
who  thus  expressed  their  enthusiastic  approbation  of 
our  enterprise.  It  was  an  exhilarating  moment  for 
all  on  board;  every  man  of  our  company,  from  the 
commander  down  to  Mons.  Schubert,  the  French  cook, 
must  have  experienced  a  feeling  of  expansion  for  the 


aft 


GODFREY'')   NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


m 


time  being,  as  though  we  had  all  been  suddenly  en- 
larged to  heroic  dimensions.  I,  who  never  suspected 
before  that  I  possessed  any  element  of  greatness,  was 
agreeably  surprised  to  find  myself  one  of  the  "  observed 
of  all  observers ;"  and  while  the  tarry  ropes  glided  be- 
tween my  fingers,  my  eyes  were  almost  ready  to  stream 
with  tears  of  joy  and  gratitude.  In  the  excitement 
of  that  moment,  my  thoughts  wandered  to  one  to  whom, 
with  youthful  indiscretion,  I  had  dedicated  my  early 
affections,  and  whose  condition  in  life,  being  far  supe- 
rior to  my  own,  made  this  aberration  of  my  youthful 
fancy  doubly  indiscreet.  But  on  this  occasion,  the 
public  attention  which  had  been  attracted  to  our  party, 
80  excited  my  organ  of  self-esteem,  that  my  erring 
attachment  no  longer  seemed  presumptuous;  and  I 
began  to  suspect,  for  the  first  time,  that  the  mandate 
whichwforbade  my  approach  to  the  object  of  my  affec- 
tion was  tyrannically  severe. 

My  comrades,  who  were  probably  less  sentimental 
than  myself,  appeared  to  enjoy,  with  unmingled  delight, 
the  vociferous  plaudits  they  received  from  the  crowds 
on  the  wharves.  Several  of  them  had  friends  and  re- 
latives among  the  assemblage,  to  whom  they  made  their 
adieus  with  sailor-like  levity.  I  must  acknowledge 
that  I  saw  none  of  those  affecting  leave-takings  which 
my  learned .  comrade.  Professor  Von  Sonntag,  refers 
to  as  being  among  the  incidents  of  our  departure.  Se- 
veral steamboats,  thronged  with  passengers,  and  pro- 
vided with  bands  of  music,  accompanied  us  several  miles 
on  our  voyage.     Our  patriotic  feelings  were  stimulated 


lenly  en- 
suspected 
ness,  was 
observed 
jlided  be- 
to  stream 
Kcitement 
to  whom, 
my  early 
far  supe- 
j  youthful 
ision,  the 
)ur  party, 
ny  erring 
b;   and  I 
)  mandate 
my  aflFec- 

mtimental 
id  delight, 
he  crowds 
Is  and  re- 
nade  their 
knowledge 
ngs  which 
ag,  refers 
ure.  Se- 
,  and  pro- 
^eral  miles 
stimulated 


EdQL'IxMAUX    GUll^E. 


V, 


% 


5^ 


%:. 


} 


i 


• 


'"fe'/' 


'%: 


If-. 


* 


I    II-  I  ^ilKlK 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


hbv  the  performance  of  national  airs,  and  the  display 
of  the  "stars  and  stripes"  from  every  point  where  a 
ifliig-staff  could  be  planted.  Thus  the  commencement 
of  our  voyage  was  all  romance  and  unalloyed  pleasure, 
[like  the  commencement  of  the  voyage  matrimonial; 
[and,  like  many  who  embark  in  the  last-mentioned  en- 
terprise, we  enjoyed  our  honey -moon,  unmindful  of 
the  icebergs  to  which  our  course  was  directed. 

The  Advance,  in  which  we  were  now  sailing,  was 
inot  a  "ship"  (as  one  of  my  traveling  companions  is 
^pleased  to  call  it,  repeatedly),  but  an  hermaphrodite 
Ibrig ;  that  is  to  say,  a  combination  of  brig  and  schooner. 
fThe  hull  was  altered  and  adapted  to  the  purposes  re- 
quired ;  the  bow  or  fore-part  of  the  vessel  being  so  filled 
I  up  with  timber  as  to  be  almost  solid.  This  contrivance 
^was  intended  to  fit  the  vessel  for  butting  against  icy 
{impediments,  when  they  were  of  such  a  nature  a^FOuld 
admit  of  their  being  broken  or  displaced  by  collision 
with  the  head  of  the  brig.  The  shape  of  the  Advance 
was  altered  to  suit  the  exigencies  of  arctic  navigation; 
ithe  sides  of  the  vessel  were  so  fashioned,  that  when 
caught  between  two  masses  of  ice,  she  would  be  forced 
[upward  instead  of  being  crushed. 

The  brig,  as  I  shall  show  hereafter,  was  not  supplied 
I  with  the  necessary  stores  and  equipments;  and  hence 
the  sufioring*  of  the  crew  in  the  polar  regions  were 
I  much  ag'gravated.  I  should  think  that  all  who  were 
concerned  in  fitting  her  out  ought  to  have  known  that 
!we  were  not  going  on  a  holiday  excursion.  My  object 
in  alluding  to  this  deficiency  of  equipments,  is  not  to 


-'-:»::-.. 


^e 


Godfrey's  narrative  op  thb 


m     ii 


cast  censure  on  any  person,  but  to  admonish  others, 
who  may  contemplate  similar  undertakings,  to  make 
suitable  provision  for  the  health  and  comfort  of  the 
seamen.  And  I  would  earnestly  advise  my  brother 
sailors  to  be  well  assured  that  all  the  necessary  prepa- 
rations for  the  voyage  have  been  made,  before  they 
enter  their  names  on  the  books  of  any.  vessel  which 
may  be  about  to  start  on  a  polar  expedition. 

The  oflScers  and  crew  of  the  Advance  consisted  of 
eighteen  persons,  namely : — 
j»  ■.     ' 

Dr.  Elisha  Kent  Kane,  Commander. 

Henry  Brooks,  First  OflScer. 

Isaac  J.  Hayes,  M.  D.,  Surgeon. 

August  Sonntag,  Astronomer  and  Draughtsman. 

0.  Ohlsen,  Carpenter. 


George  Riley, 
Jambs  McGarry, 
Henry  Goodfellow, 
John  W.  Wilson, 
Amos  Bonsall, 


Seamen. 

George  Stephenson, 
George  Whipple, 
John  Blake, 
Jefferson  Baker, 
William  C.  Godfrey. 


Thomas  HiCKEY,  Cabin  Boy. 
Peter  Schubert,  French  Cook 
•   '     William  Morton,  Steward. 

On  the  2nd  of  June,  eighteen  days  after  we  left  New 
York,  we  arrived  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  where 
Dr.  Kane  made  some  necessary  additions  to  his  supplies 


..r- 


GRINNELL   EXPLORTNO   EXFEDITION 


87 


ind  equipments.    We  obtained  at  St.  John's  a  quantity 
)f  beef  and  mutton,  which  we  prepared  for  preservation 
)y  a  process,  well  known  to  mariners,  called  "marl- 
ing."    In  this  process,  the  bones  are  remc-ed,  and 
fche  meat,  after  being  salted,  is  hung  upon  the  rigging 
io  dry.     At  St.  John's  we  also  procured  some  addi- 
konal  tinware  and  cooking  utensils,  and  several  dogS 
If  the  celebrated  Newfoundland  breed,  which  we  intended 
use  as  draught  animals  when  we  should  arrive  in 
lose  regions  where  the  services  of  these  quadrupeds 
re  indispensable.     Our  passage  from  New  York  to  St. 
)hn's  was  not  very  agreeable, — the  weather  being,  foi 
le  greater  part  of  the  time,  quite  boisterous.     Oui 
leek  cargo  was  much  disarranged  by  the  pitching  of 
le  vessel  and  some  of  the  "  green-horns,"  myself  in- 
lusive,  were  considerably  sea-sick.     However,  in  this 
[ffliction    I  had  very  respectable  company,    for*  Dr. 
[ayes,  whose  seafaring  experience  was  not  much  more 
[tensive  than  my  own,  suffered  considerably  from  gas- 
fic  discomposure.    By  the  way,  it  may  as  well  be  men- 
[oned  here,  that  Dr.  Hayes,  who  did  duty  as  surgeon 
board  of  the  Advance,  was  not  a  regular  sea-bred 
saw-bones," — but  had  previously  been  doing  duty  on 
ry  land,  in  the  capacity  of  a  country  physician,  and 
isided  in  some  rural  village  near  Philadelphia.     Ho  is 
gentleman  whom  I  very  highly  esteem ;  but  I  must 
ly,  nevertheless,  that,  like  almost  every  other  person 
rho  has  undertaken  to  give  an  account  of  the  Grinnell 
Expedition,  he  has  made  some  statements  which  are 
^ot  quite  accurate. 
4 


33 


Godfrey's  narrative  of  ths 


J 


The  Encflish  authorities  at  St.  John's  gave  us  a 
hearty  welcome.  Governor  Hamilton  especially  ren- 
dered us  every  service  that  was  in  his  power;  and, 
among  other  acts  of  kindness,  he  presented  us  with  a 
fine  team  of  Newfoundland  dogs,  which  afterward  proved 
very  useful  to  us  in  our  sledge  journeys  over  the  ice. 
We  remained  at  St.  John's  two  days,  during  which  we 
were  considerably  lionized  by  the  inhabitants, — the 
ladies  in  particular,  who  seemed  to  regard  us  as  a 
**  noble  army  of  martyrs,"  about  to  offer  ourselves  as 
a  willing  sacrifice  on  the  altars  of  science  and  humanity. 

From  St.  John's  we  steered,  as  nearly  in  a  straight 
line  as  possible,  for  the  coast  of  Greenland,  direct- 
ing our  course,  in  the  first  place,  toward  a  Danish 
settlement,  called  Fiskernaes, — situated  near  the  en- 
trance of  Davis'  Strait.  We  came  within  a  few  miles 
of  this  place  on  the  1st  day  of  July  ;  but,  as  the 
atmosphere  was  very  foggy,  we  had  some  difficulty  in 
finding  the  settlement.  Another  seaman  and  myself 
were  sent  ashore  in  a  boat  to  obtain  a  pilot.  We 
landed  on  the  coast,  after  some  hard  rowing, — and  on 
approaching  a  hut  which  we  saw  at  some  distance 
from  the  water, — we  met  a  queer  specimen  of  human 
nature, — a  dumpy,  duck-legged  fellow,  who  proved  to 
be  a  **  cross"  between  Dane  and  Esquimaux.  After 
both  parties  had  stared  at  each  other  sufficiently,  we 
began  to  communicate  by  signs, — and  thus  we  contrived, 
after  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  to  make  the  Green- 
lander  understand  what  we  wanted.  The  reward  of 
an  invalid  jack-knife  induced  him  to  enter  our  boat  and 


I 


ORINNELL  EXPLORTNQ  EXPEDITION. 


39 


pilot  us  to  Fiskernaes,  which  we  reached  after 
a  pretty  hard  row  of  four  hours  duration.  The  "  Gov- 
ernor," as  the  resident  «gcnt  of  the  Danish  government 
is  called,  gave  my  companion  and  myself  a  hearty  re- 
ception, and  treated  us  to  a  lunch,  consisting  of  a  lump 
of  rye  hread  and  a  glaeb  of  grog  for  each  of  us.  After 
this  refreshment,  we  engaged  a  pilot,  recommended  to 
us  by  the  Governor,  and  embarked  with  him  in  our 
boat.  The  brig  was  standing  off  and  on,  awaiting  our 
return, — but  we  were  obliged  to  row  eight  miles  before 
we  reached  her.  With  our  pilot's  assistance,  the  Ad- 
vance soon  entered  the  harbor  of  Fiskernaes.  As  soon 
as  we  came  to  anchor,  the  Governor  sent  a  boat  with 
an  invitation  for  the  officers  to  come  on  shore,  and 
attend  a  fete  which  his  Excellency  gave  in  honor  of  our 
arrival.  The  invitation  was  accepted  by  Dr.  Kane, 
Dr.  Hayes,  Mr.  Brooks,  and  Mr.  Sonntag.  Bonsall  and 
I  were  selected  to  row  these  gentlemen  ashore.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  town,  Danish  and  Esquimaux, 
crowded  the  beach  to  see  us  land.  They  appeared  to 
be  very  much  amused  at  our  appearance,  and  laughed 
in  our  faces  without  any  restraint.  We  did  as  much 
for  them,  as  their  figures  and  dress  were  no  less  ridicu- 
lous in  oui'  eyes  than  our  tout  ensemble  was  in  theirs. 
The  Esquimaux  in  general  are  about  as  comical  a  race 
of  mortals  as  ever  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet 
with.  Their  corporal  construction  itself  is  unlike  that 
of  mankind  in  general,  and  they  make  themselves  still 
more  uncouth  by  their  grotesque  style  of  dressing.  I 
think  Professor  Sonntag  contradicts  the  common  report 


I 


9i\ 


f 


40 


Godfrey's  narrative  of  the 


that  these  people  are  dwarfish  in  stature,  and  avers  that 
they  are  very  little,  if  any,  below  the  average  height  of 
Europeans.  The  Professor  must  have  observed  them 
through  a  convex  lens,  or  some  other  magnifying  medium, 
— for  all  my  observations  tend  to  confirm  the  general 
statement,  that  the  tallest  of  thein  are  below  the  middle 
height  of  Englishmen  and  Americans.  Their  complex- 
ions appeared  to  me  to  resemble  those  of  the  North 
American  Indians  in  general, — but  in  elegance  of 
figure,  in  .nobility  of  character,  in  bodily  activity  and 
courage,  they  are  very  far  inferior  to  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants  of  the  American  continent.  However,  the 
Esquimaux  have  some  admirable  traits  ;  they  are  very 
hospitable  to  strangers  ;  they  are  exemplary  in  all  their 
domestic  relations,  and  the  several  tribes  maintain  a 
peaceable  and  friendly  disposition  toward  each  other. 
They  have  none  of  that  vengeful  ferocity  which  is  im 
puted  to  savage  tribes  in  general — in  fact,  there  is 
nothing  sanguinary  or  warlike  in  their  character. 

The  Esquimaux  who  reside  near  the  Danish  settle- 
ments are  partly  civilized,  and  many  of  them  are  as  good 
Christians,  at  hast,  as  their  Danish  neighbors.  One 
of  these  converted  Exquimaux,  a  youth  about  eighteen 
years  of  age,  named  Hans  Christian,  was  shipped  on 
board  of  the  Advance  at  Fiskernaes,  and  afterward 
became  very  useful  to  the  Expedition  and  a  special 
favorite  of  Dr.  Kane,  to  whom  he  is  indebted  for  as 
much  celebrity  as  he  deserves. 


ORINNELL  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


41 


CHAPTER    IV. 

FISKERNAES — THE  AUTHOR'S  HARD  SERVICE — VISIT 
TO  A  MORAVIAN  MISSION  HOUSE — TWO  QUEER  OLD 
MISSIONARIES  —  SUCKERTOPPEN  —  ITS  MAGNIFICENT 
PEAKS — ARRIVAL  AT  PROVEN — GRAND  FANCY  BALL — 
THE  AMERICAN  SAILORS  DANCE  FOR  THE  HONOR 
OF  THEIR  COUNTRY — THE  AUTHOR  INVITED  TO  OPEN 
A  DANCING  SCHOOL — HIS  QUALIFICATIONS — WE  PRO- 
CEED TO  UPERNAVICK — THE  TOWN  AND  ITS  IN- 
HABITANTS— MR.  PETERSEN. 


FiSKERNAES  is  the  most  southern  port  of  Greenland. 
It  scarcely  deserves  to  he  called  a  town  or  village,  as 
the  only  huilding  of  any  importance  which  it  contains 
is  the  governmental  store-house,  or  depot  for  Danish 
:  merchandise,  whfeh  is  replenished,  once  a  year,  on  the 
I  arrival  of  a  ship  sent  from  Denmark  for  this  purpose. 
[The  Governor  has  the  management  of  this  store-house, 
[to  which  the  Esquimaux  resort  for  the  purpose  of  ex- 
1  changing  their  furs  and  other  commodities  for  European 
goods.  Fiskernaes  is  situated,  if  I  remember  correctly, 
^about  nine  miles  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Davis 
[Strait.  Besides  the  trade  which  this  settlement  carries 
Ion  with  the  Esquimaux  of  the  interior,  it  does  a  good 
leal  in  che  fishing  way ;  indeed  its  cod-fishing  affords  a 
4* 


42 


GODFREY'S  NABAATIYE  OF  THE 


considerable  revenue  to  the  Danish  government.  The 
name  of  the  present  governor  is  Lassen ;  his  estima- 
ble qualities  and  his  pipe-smoking  propensities  have 
been  spoken  of  at  large  by  some  of  my  illustrious  pre- 
decessors, especially  by  Mr.  Sonntag,  whose  German 
sympathies  were  naturally  enlisted  in  behalf  of  a  gen- 
tleman who  could  smoke  tobacco  for  forty-eight  hours 
without  intermission.  In  justice  to  Mr.  Lassen,  I 
must  say,  that  he  deserves  to  be  commemorated  for 
more  gentlemanly  attributes  than  we  can  easily 
connect  with  the  character  of  an  incessant  tobacco- 
smoker. 

As  it  was  my  good  or  ill  fortune  to  be  one  of  the 
most  stalwart  and  active  *^ hands"  on  board  of  the 
AdvancBj  it  was  my  lot  to  perform  a  full  share  of  the 
most  laborious  duties ;  such,  for  instance,  as  rowing  the 
small  boat.  While  the  brig  lay  in  the  harbor  of  Fis- 
kernaes,  I  had  the  honor  to  row  Messrs.  Kane,  Hayes, 
and  Sonntag  to  a  neighboring  missionary  establishment 
at  Lichtenfels,  where  the  Moravians  have  a  sort  of 
monastery,  if  it  is  no  offense  to  giv%  it  that  name. 
Our  officers  received  a  cordial  welcome  from  two 
brethren  of  the  Order,  the  only  survivors  of  some  six 
or  eight  of  their  fraternity,  who  established  themselves 
in  this  desolate  place  about  thirty  years  ago.  The 
missionary  house  is  an  antiquated  building,  in  the 
Dutch  style  of  architecture,  one  story  high,  and  "  hip- 
roofed,"  with  a  droll  little  steeple  and  belfry  on  the 
top.  On  glancing  around  on  the  hideous  landscape, 
where  nothing  could  be  seen  but  rocks  stuccoed  with 


A.\l\. 


OBINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


48 


ice  and  plains  carpeted  with  eternal  snow,  I  felt  the 
conviction  that  men  who  could  dwell  contentedly  in 
such  a  place  for  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century  must 
be  either  sanctified  or  insane.  The  dress  of  the  two 
brethren  who  received  us,  like  the  architecture  of  their 
dwelling,  belonged  to  a  formei*  century.  While  I  looked 
at  them,  I  could  scarcely  persuade  myself  that  they 
were  not  two  of  the  Seven  Sleepers,  who  had  just  waked 
up,  after  their  protracted  nap,  and  had  not  had  time 
to  change  their  apparel.  The  good  old  gentlemen  gave 
us  an  excellent  dinner,  cooked  of  course  in  an  antique 
style,  by  the  silver-haired  matron  of  the  establishment ; 
and,  after  the  repast  was  over,  Dr.  Kane  and  the 
Moravian  brethren  had  a  long  confab  on  religious  sub- 
jects, in  which  the  Doctor  always  took  a  lively  interest. 
After  our  return  to  the  ship,  our  commander  sent  me 
[back  to  the  Leichtenfel  missionaries  with  a  philopena, 
[consisting  of  about  two  barrels  of  excellent  Mercer 
[potatoes,  which  they  received  with  many  grateful 
[acknowledgments. 

From  Fiskernaes  we  proceeaed  slowly,  on  account 
iof  adverse  winds,  to  another  Danish  settlement,  called 
[Suckertoppen,  (Sugar-peak,)  from  some  fancied  re- 
jemblance  of  a  stupendous  rocky  spire,  at  the  entrance 
)f  the  harbor,  to  a  sugar-loaf.  I  supposed  this  peak 
to  be  more  than  2,600  feet  high.  It  is  truly  a  mag- 
lificent  object,  when  the  observer  is  near  enough  to 
)erceive  its  astonishing  altitude  and  dimensions.  In 
somparison  with  this  great  work  of  Nature,  the  tallest 
Egyptian  pyramid,  the  dome  of  St.  Peter,  or  any  other 


I 


u 


U 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OP  THE 


production  of  human  art,  would  appear  perfectly  insig- 
nificant. 

Our  next  remove  was  to  Proven,  situated  on  the 
Tiestern  coast  of  Greenland,  several  miles  above  Sucker- 
toppen.  At  all  of  these  Danish  settlements  we  stopped 
to  obtain  additional  supplies  of  furs,  carpenter's  tools, 
and  other  necessaries,  with  which  our  brig  had  not  pre- 
viously been  furnished.  A  few  more  dogs  of  the  Es- 
quimaux breed,  famous  for  their  sledge-drawing  abilities, 
were  shipped  at  Suckertoppen  and  Proven.  At  the 
last-named  place  we  remained  more  than  two  days, 
enjoying  the  luxuries  and  amusements  of  the  locality ; 
and  while  there,  we  were  lionized  almost  as  much  as  we 
had  previously  been  at  St.  John's,  but  in  a  somewhat 
different  style.  The  Governor  of  Proven  gave  a  grand 
fancy  ball  for  our  special  entertainment.  All  the  ladies 
of  the  settlement,  Danish  and  Esquimaux,  and  all  the 
male  aristocracy  of  the  place,  participated  in  this  ele- 
gant/^^  which,  as  we  were  informed,  was  never  sur- 
passed in  splendor  by  any  thing  of  the  kind  which  the 
oldest  inhabitants  had  witnessed.  The  saloon  in  which 
this  ball  took  place  was  an  apartment  over  the  store- 
house, the  floor  of  which  consisted  of  boards  which  had 
never  been  profaned  by  a  touch  of  the  jack-plane.  In 
the  ceiling  over  head  were  seen  the  naked  rafters,  and 
the  slate-roof  inclining  on  each  side,  like  an  angular 
sky,  to  the  .plane  of  the  horizon.  This  chamber,  now 
devoted  to  Terpsichorean  festivities,  had  been  for 
twenty  years  at  least  in  the  undisturbed  possession  of 
the  rats,  which  appeared  to  consider   that  they  had 


OBJNNELL  EXPLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


45 


acquired  a  legal  right  to  the  premises.  Owing  to  the 
shape  of  the  ceiling,  the  dancers  were  confined  to  the 
middle  of  the  room,  while,  in  the  angles  where  the 
ceiling  and  floor  came  together,  the  rats,  with  "  shock- 
ing tameness,"  sat  in  full  view,  and  watched  our  mo- 
tions with  their  sharp  twinkling  eyes,  which  seemed  to 
sparkle  with  indignation  at  our  intrusive  audacity. 

The  company  was  such  as  I  never  saw  in  a  dancing 
saloon  before,  and  never  expect  to  see  again.  Imagine 
a  score  of  Esquimaux  ladies,  in  seal-skin  pantalettes 
(fur  side  outward),  long  boots  of  the  same  material,  and 
"monkey-jackets,"  as  the  sailors  call  them,  composed 
of  coarse  cotton  cloth  obtained  from  the  Danish  store- 
house. The  costume  of  the  Esquimaux  men  was  very 
little  different  from  that  of  the  females.  The  personal 
appearance  of  both  sexes  was  more  striking  than  pre- 
possessing. Their  short  and  broad  faces,  flat  noses, 
wide  mouths,  and  big  round  eyes,  their  long  bodies  and 
duck  legs,  their  copperish  complexions,  their  perpetual 
broad  grins,  their  uncouth  gesticulations,  all  these  pe- 
culiarities together  gave  me  the  impression  that  they 
were  the  most  extravagantly  burlesqued  specimens  of 
humanity  that  were  ever  produced  in  Nature's  work- 
shop, ^he  Danish  portion  of  our  company  made  a 
somewhat  better  appearance;  but  when  the  dancing 
commenced,  the  scene  altogether  was  so  exceedingly 
funny  that  no  description  could  do  it  justice.  Every 
gentleman  of  the  company  selected  a  female  partner, 
and  then  we  executed  some  of  the  most  original  waltzes, 
and  polkas  that  ever  were  witnessed  between  the  paral- 


/ 


46 


GODFREY  S  NARRATIVE   OP  THE 


A\ 


lels  of  20**  and  80°  North  latitude.  The  general  impres- 
sion seemed  to  be  that  whoever  could  jump  highest  and 
full  hardest  was  the  greatest  adept  in  the  graceful  art 
of  dancing ;  and  several  of  our  ship's  company,  being 
young  and  active  fellows,  far  surpassing  both  Danes 
and  Esquimaux  in  agility,  acquitted  themselves  much 
to  their  individual  credit,  and  to  the  honor  and  glory 
of  the  nation  which  they  represented.  The  ladies  of 
the  party  expressed  much  admiration  of  my  perform- 
ance at  their  ball,  and  several  of  them  were  pleased  to 
remark,  that  if  I  would  remain  at  Proven  and  open  a 
dancing-school,  I  could,  no  doubt,  obtain  a  very  liberal 
share  of  public  patronage.  By  the  way,  all  the  knowl- 
edge of  dancing  which  I  possessed  must  have  been  in- 
tuitive, as  I  had  never  received  any  instruction  in  the 
art,  and  my  postures  and  motions,  which  elicited  so 
much  applause,  were  all  of  my  own  invention,  and  were 
most  extravagantly  original. 

Having  greatly  improved  our  stock  of  provisions,  &c., 
at  Proven,  we  took  leave  of  our  numerous  friends  and 
acquaintances  at  that  place,  got  our  brig  under  weigh, 
and  steered  for  the  port  of  Upernavick,  the  most  north- 
ern Danish  settlement  on  the  coast  of  Greenland,  in 
lat.  72°  40'  N.,  Ion.  66°  W.  from  Greenwicl^.  This 
village  consists  of  some  half  a  dozen  comfortable  wooden 
houses,  occupied  by  the  Danish  settlers,  a  store-house, 
a  carpenter's  shop,  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  several 
Esquimaux  huts  composed  of  earth  or  clay.  In  all  of 
.these  Danish  settlements  on  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
the  population  is  partly  composed  of  a  mixed  breed  of 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION 


i1 


Panes  and  Esquimaux ;  a  "cross"  which,  in  the  opinion 
of  our  astronomer  Sonntag,  is  superior  to  the  original 
stock  on  both  sides.  This  opinion  is  not  very  compli- 
mentary to  the  Danes.  They,  to  do  them  justice,  could 
hardly  be  improved  by  an  amalgamation  with  the  Es- 
quimaux, who  are,  physically  and  intellectually,  inferior 
to  any  race  of  people  in  the  world,  except  some  tribes 
of  Africans,  which  are  scarcely  allowed,  by  several  sci- 
entific writers,  to  take  rank  among  the  human  species. 
At  Upernavick  we  opened  a  trade  with  the  settlers 
I  and  natives,  bartering  knives,  cheap  jewelry,  beads,  &c., 
'•  for  furs  and  fresh  provisions.  We  also  obtained  another 
[team  of  dogs  at  thic  place,  and  engaged  a  Dane  named 
Petersen,  wlio  resided  here,  to  accompany  us  as  an  in- 
terpreter^ to  facil'tate  our  communications  with  the 
more  northern  tribes  of  Esquimaux.  Mr.  Petersen 
made  ^.j  u-3lt  generally  useful  on  board  of  the  brig;  he 
IwaF  a  skillful  hunter,  and  a  tolerable  carpenter ;  and, 
[uni  ie  our  commander's  pet,  Hans  Christian,  and  two 
[or  three  others  of  our  company,  he  had  no  repugnance 
[for  work,  even  when  the  labors  to  be  performed  were 
)ut  of  the  line  of  his  prescribed  duties. 


;i 


■■*- . 


'1 1 


ii 


. 


-  H 


# 


48 


Godfrey's  narrative  of  the 


CHAPTER  V. 

WB  LEAVE  UPERNAVICK  AND  BID  ADIEU  TO  THE  HABIT- 
ABLE WORLD — THE  DEVIL'S  NIP — ICEBERGS — THEIR 
MAGNIFICENCE  AND  SUBLIMITY — ROCKS  IMBEDDED  IN 
THEIR  SIDES — THIS  PHENOMENON  ACCOUNTED  FOR— 
THE  author's  MOONLIGHT  MUSINGS — A  STRANGE 
FANCY — OUR  BRIG  IN  DANGER — MIRACULOUS  ESCAPE 
— TOWED  BY  AN  ICEBERG — ARRIVAL  AT  HAKLUYT 
ISLAND — DR.  KANE  AND  THE  AUTHOR  CATCH  A  COLD 
DUCK. 

Our  departure  from  Upernavick  was  almost  equiva- 
lent to  a  withdrawal  from  the  inhabitable  world ;  for, 
bejond  that  point,  all  traces  of  civilization  disappear 
and  the  dominions  of  the  Ice-King  are  fairly  entered. 
Sixty  miles  beyond  Upernavick,  we  reach  that  bug- 
bear of  arctic  navigators,  called  Melville  Bay,  which 
occupies  a  semi-circular  hollow  in  the  coast  of  Green- 
land, extending  from  Cape  York  southwardly  to  the 
74th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  fifty  miles  beyond  a 
point  called  the  Devil's  Thumb.  This  Bay  is  also 
called  the  Devil's  Nip — as  significative  of  its  dangerous 
character.'  A  great  part  of  Melville  Bay,  namely,  that 
portion  which  lies  nearest  to  the  land,  is  constantly 
frozen  over,  presenting  a  solid  platform  of  ice  from 
thirty  to  forty  miles  in  breadth,  and  more  than  a  hun- 


U 


HE 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING    EXPE   ITION. 


40 


r  TO  THE  HABIT- 
JEBERQS — THEIR 
KS  IMBEDDED  IN 
COUNTED  FOR — 
as — A  STRANGE 
LCULOUS  ESCAPE 
L  AT  HAKLUYT 
R   CATCH  A  COLD 


almost  equiva- 
tble  world ;  for, 
lation  disappear 

fairly  entered, 
•each  that  bug- 
ille  Bay,  which 
[coast  of  Green- 
;hwardly  to  the 

iles  beyond  a 
|is  Bay  is  also 

if  its  dangerous 
[y,  namely,  that 

i,  is  constantly 

m  of  ice  from 

ire  than  a  hun- 


[dred   miles  in  length.     From   the  outer  or  off-shore 
ledge  of  this  platform,  huge  masses  or  floes  are  broken 
(by  the  action  of  the  waves,  and  these  floes,  obeying  the 
iimpulse  of  the  winds  and  tides,  aro  sometimes  driven 
)ut  seaward  and  sometimes  floated  in  toward  the  land- 
[ice,  with  which  it  comes  in  violent  contact,  producing  a 
jrash  like  **  the  crack  of  doom."     When  the  floes  set 
|off  from  the  land-ice,  an  open  space  is  left  for  the  pas- 
sage of  ships,  if  they  choose  to  avail  themselves  of  this 
)recious  but  perilous  opportunity.     When  a  ship  enters 
this  dangerous  passage,  it  must  always  be  with  the  un- 
lerstanding  that  a  change  of  wind  may  bring  the  floe  and 
land-ice  together  with  a  force  sufficient  to  crush  any 
^aken  fabric  to  atoms.     Instead  of  hugging  the  ice- 
bound shore  of  the  bay,  according  to  the  usual  practice 
|f  mariners  who  make  this  voyage,  the  Advance  stood 
but  to  sea,  taking  a  north-westerly  course  for  Cape 
'ork,  without  entering  Melville  Bay  at  all.     By  this 
Lp^dient  we  avoided  the  danger  of  being  caught  bo- 
reen  the  masses  of  ice  with  which  the  bay  is  always 
)vered,  but  we  incurred  other  dangers  almost  or  quite 
great,  for  we  encountered  many  bergs  and  other 
^rge  bodies  of  ice,  put  into  rapid  motion  by  the  currents 
roceeding  from  Lancaster  and  Smith's  Sounds.     We 
id  the  ill-luck,  likewise,  to  be  encompassed  by  a  dense 
|g,  which   greatly  increased  the  *danger  of  collision 
^h  the  icebergs  that  bore  down  upon  us  from  seve- 
il  directions. 

The  appearance  of  icebergs  has  been  often  described ; 
least,  attempts  have  often  been  made  to  describe 
5 


"i^ 


f'  * 


50 


aODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OP  THE 


M      I 


\ 


them  ;  but  the  truth  is,  they  arc  indescribable.     They 
are  certainly  the  most  magnificent  and  stupendous  ob- 
jects in  Nature.     Even  when  stationary,  th^y  are  un- 
rivalled in  grandeur  and  splendor  of  appearance  by 
any  other  terrestrial  object,  but  their  motions  cannot 
fail  to  impress  the  spectator  with  astonishment  and 
awe.     The  element  of  terror  is  not  wanting  to  make 
them  sublime ;  for  when  they  present  themselves  to  the 
mariner,  they  are^  always  suggestive   of  trouble  and 
danger.     I  have  seen  some  icebergs  which  appeared  to 
ascend  to  the  height  of  from  two  hundred  to  five  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  water.     Their  appear- 
ance is  often  white,  so  that  they  resemble  clouds  at  a 
distance.     At'  other  times  they  appear  like  mountains 
of  glass,  with  many  dark  objects,  rocks  or  boulders, 
masses  of  earth,  &c.,  imbedded   in  their  sides.     The 
presence  of  huge  rocks  in  floating  icebergs  is  a  phe- 
nomenon which  requires  some  explanation.     The  polar 
icebergs  are  produced  by  glaciers  or  streams  of  ice, 
which  have  a  very  slow  but  constantly  progressive  mo- 
tion from  the  interior  of  Greenland  to  the  sea.     These 
icft-streams  probably  do  not  move,  on  an  average,  more 
than  one  fathom  in  a  week ;  however,  they  have  suffi- 
cient force  to  take  up  and  carry  along  large  masses  of 
rock  which  may  happen  to  lie  in  their  course.     When 
the  ice-current  reaches  the  sea,  a  deposit  is  formed  near 
the  coas't,  the  ice  being  heaped  up  in  masses,  which  are 
constantly  increased  or  enlarged  by  accessions  of  ne^Y 
ice  from  the  glaciers ;  and  this  icy-river,  with  the  rocks 
it  has  taken  up  in  its  passage,  still  augments  the  heap, 


QRINNELL   EXPLOHrNQ    EXPEDITION. 


51 


mtil  a  mountain  of  ice  is  formed,  and  this  mountain, 
Ibeing  detached  from  the  shore  by  the  winds  or  waves, 
)ecome8  a  moving  iceberg,  the  rocks  and  other  foreign 
substances  which  it  acquired  in  the  process  of  its  form- 
ition,  being  still  a  part  of  its  component  material. 

Sometimes,  when  I  have  been  keeping  watch  on  deck, 
md  when  an  iceberg,  glittering  in  the  cold  arctic 
loonlight,  has  swept  past  our  vessel,  I  have  imagined 
strange  but  not  impossible  things.  I  have  supposed, 
for  example,  that  the  body  of  the  lost  navigator  might 
)e  enclosed  in  that  crystal  mass — enshrined  in  a  mov- 
able sepulchre  of  ice — and  that,  by  some  conceivable 
{hance,  the  frozen  corpse  of  the  missing  Captain  might 
)e  thus  conveyed  to  some  region  inhabited  by  civilized 
)eople,  his  own  countrymen  perhaps,  or  others  who 
lave  been  deeply  interested  in  his  fate.  However  un- 
likely such  a  thing  might  be  to  happen,  it  is  not  beyond 
le  scope  of  possibility.  If  the  arctic  voyagers  had 
)rsaken  their  ships  and  betaken  themselves  to  land 
ravel,  they  might  have  sunk  exhausted  on  the  surface  , 
a  glacier ;  in  that  case,  their  bodies  would  have  been 
irried  onward  by  the  gelid  current,  and  finally  incor- 
|orated  with  an  iceberg.  And,  as  large  rocks  are 
ften  transported  in  icebergs  to  far  distant  shores,  the 
)dy  of  a  man  might  change  its  locality  by  means  of 
16  same  kind  of  conveyance.  But  this  may  appear  to 
le  reader  to  be  a  very  idle  speculation;  much  like 
[amlet's  attempt  to  show  how  the  mortal  remains  of 
ilius  Caesar  might  be  used  to  stop  the  bung  of  a  beer- 
irrel. 


.,#m. 


/ 


52 


GODFREYS  NARRATIVE  OP  Till 


ii 


^      \ 


I 


'      il 


On  the  29th  day  of  July,  we  found  ourselves  sur- 
rounded by  drifting  ice,  which  threatened  to  close  in 
on  us — an  event  which  would  probably  have  wrecked 
the  brig  and  endangered  the  lives  of  all  on  board.  On 
each  side  of  us  was  a  floe  of  vast  extent  and  several 
feet  in  height  above  the  water-line ;  and  we  saw,  with 
no  little  dread,  that  these  floes  were  approaching  each 
other,  so  that  the  lane  of  water  in  which  the  brig  was 
sailing  became  narrower  every  moiiienjt.  It  was  easy 
to  foresee  what  would  be  the  catastrophe  if  we  did  not 
escape  from  the  contracting  passage  before  the  two 
floes  came  in  actual  contact.  At  this  critical  juncture, 
an  iceberg,  impelled  by  the  current  from  Lancaster 
Sound,  came  drifting  past  us  with  a  degree  of  speed 
which  our  vessel  could  not  attain.  We  concluded  to 
employ  this  berg  as  a  tow-horse,  and  one  of  my  com- 
panions and  myself  were  sent  out  in  a  boat  with  a  tow- 
line  and  ice-anchor  to  make  fast.  The  ice-anchor  used 
by  us  was  similar  in  form  to  a  pot-hook,  or  the  letter  S ; 
the  line  was  attached  to  one  extremity,  and  the  other 
was  inserted  in  a  hole  which  we  were  obliged  to  cut  in 
the  ice  with  a  mallet  and  chisel.  I  found  it  rather  a 
*^  ticklish"  operation  to  cut  a  mortice  in  a  moving  ice- 
berg ;  for,  in  the  performance  of  this  task,  I  was  com- 
pelled to  stand  in  the  boat,  which  my  comrade  sculled 
and  held  as  steadily  as  possible  against  the  side  of  the 
berg.  \Vith  much  labor,  we  succeeded  at  last  in  get- 
ting our  anchor  firmly  planted ;  and,  before  the  line  was 
drawn  taut,  we  got  on  board  of  the  brig,  which  soon 
began  to  bound  forward  like  a  wild  horse,  the  iceberg 


rselves  Bur- 
to  close  in 
ive  wrecked 
board.     On 
and  several 
e  saw,  with 
Etching  each 
;he  brig  was 
It  was  easy 
'  we  did  not 
)re  the  two 
;al  juncture, 
1  Lancaster 
se  of  speed 
oncluded  to 
of  my  com- 
with  a  tow- 
anchor  used 
he  letter  S ; 
the  other 
ed  to  cut  in 
it  rather  a 
otioving  ice- 
I  was  com- 
ade  sculled 
side  of  the 
last  in  get- 
he  line  was 
which  soon 
the  iceberg 


■fe 


*  ^1 


'-m 


% 


OBINNELL    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


55 


dragging  her  along  much  better  than  a  steam  "  tug" 
Gould  have  done  it.  In  order  to  get  ahead  as  fast  as 
possible,  as  no  time  was  to  be  lost,  we  drew  in  the  tow- 
line  and  thus  brought  the  brig  under  a  projection  of  the 
berg,  which  was  somewhat  higher  than  our  main-mast. 
We  had  scarcely  placed  ourselves  in  this  position,  when 
a  curious  crepitation  above  our  heads  was  heard ;  and, 
at  the  same  time,  a  sort  of  shower  of  hail  began  to  fall 
on  deck.  Lumps  of 'ice  as  big  as  hen's  eggs  came  rat- 
tling down ;  and  one  of  our  fellows,  while  inconsiderately 
looking  up  to  see  where  they  came  from,  was  knocked 
flat  on  his  back  by  one  of  the  ice-lumps,  which  struck 
him  between  the  eyes.  We  now  began  to  guess  what 
was  about  to  happen,  and  immediately  commenced  pay- 
ing out  the  tow-line  as  fast  as  possible,  thus  allowing 
the  iceberg  to  shoot  ahead  of  the  brig ;  and  we  did  not 
escape  from  our  dangerous  neighbor  too  soon,  for  we 
had  scarcely  fallen  back  to  the  distance  of  thirty 
fathoms,  wheh  a  mass  of  ice,  weighing  probably  fifty 
tons  or  more,  fell  from  the  overhanging  summit  of  the 
berg,  with  a  thundering  report,  caused  by  the  sudden 
fracture  of  so  large  a  body.  The  huge  fragment  drop- 
ped int»  the  sea  at  the  very  spot  which  the  brig  would 
have  occupied,  had  we  not  cast  off  in  time  to  avoid  the 
impending  danger.  With  considerable  exertion,  we  ex- 
tricated the  brig  from  her  perilous  position  among  the 
floating  ice;  and,  after  the  alarming  adventure  related 
above,  we  met  with  little  obstruction  until  we  doubled 
Cape  Dudley  Digges,  in  lat.  76°.  We  were  now  in  a 
part  of  Baffin's  Bay  called  by  the  whalers  North  Water. 


66 


GODFREYS   NARRATIVE  OP  THE 


Here  the  ice  seldom  collects  in  any  considerable  quan- 
tity, and  we  "were  enabled  to  proceed  on  our  voyage  for 
several  days  without  any  impediment,  passing  Capes 
Athol,  Abernethy,  and  Parry,  and  the  islands  of  Dal- 
rymple  and  Carys. 

On  the  6th  of  August,  we  reached  Hakluyt  Island, 
lat.  77°  22'.  This  is  the  most  westerly  island  of  a 
group,  lying  in  an  indentation  of  the  shore,  between 
Capes  Parry  and  Robertson.  Efakluyt  Island  is  dis- 
tinguished by  a  tall  rocky  peak,  which  rises  to  the 
height  of  about  five  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  water.  In  the  'neighborhood  of  this  island, 
we  shot  two  white  bears  on  the  ice.  As  we  had  not 
tasted  any  fresh  meat  for  several  weeks,  the  flesh  of 
these  animals  was  an  acceptable  article  of  food,  though 
the  flavor  is  rather  stronger  than  delicate  stomachs 
'  might  tolerate.  The  liver  of  the  polar  bear  is  said  to 
be  poisonous ;  and  we  had  some  evidence  of  the  fact, 
for  several  of  our  men  who  partook  of  it  were  extremely 
ill  afterward. 

At  Hakluyt  Island  Dr.  Kane  and  I  went  ashore  in 
a  boat.  The  place  was  frightfully  desolate,  but  having 
made  our  boat  fast  to  the  shore,  we  walked  a  little  way 
into  the  interior,  to  make  observations.  The  island 
seemed  to  be  a  compound  mass  of  rock  and  ice,  and  we 
soon  became  tired  of  a  scene  which  presented  so  little 
variety.  On  our  return  to  the  boat,  we  found  that  the 
brig  had  set  sail  to  avoid  some  drifting  ice  which  threat- 
ened to  surround  her,  and  I  was  obliged  to  row  the  boat 
six  miles  before  we  overtook  the  Advance :  and  then. 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


6T 


rhile  endeavoring  to  get  on  board,  we  had  our  boat 

stove,"  or  crushed,  between  a  large  cake  of  ice  and 

^he  side  of  the  brig.     The  Doctor  and  I  were  both 

)retty  well  "  ducked,"  being  plunged  head  and  ears  in 

mter  which  must  have  been  near  the  temperature  of 

lelting  ice.     As  I  had  been  rowing  hard  for  six  miles, 

was  in  a  profuse  perspiration  when,  by  the  smashing 

^f  the  boat,  I  was  plunged  into  the  icy  water;  yet, 

jitrange  to  say,  I  did  not  take  cold,  nor  did  any  of  my 

mbsequent  exposure  affect  my  health  in  the  slightest 

legree.     I  never  had  a  touch  of  catarrh  or  rheumatism 

rhile  I  was  in  the  Arctic  regions ;  but  since  I  returned 

a  temperate  climate,  I  have  seldom  been  quite  free 

rem   one  or  the  other  of  these  diseases.     These  are 

icts  which  the  r  sdical  men  may  find  it  somevrhat  diffi- 

ilt  to  explain. 


"X^^: 


(. 'ji . 


58 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


.* 


CHAPTER  VI. 

MR.  WILLIAM  MORTON'S  FAMOUS  DISCOVERT — THE  AU- 
THOR'S MISGIVINGS  ON  THE  SUBJECT — VISIONARY  MIS- 
TAKES AND  HALLUCINATIONS  OP  ARCTIC  TRAVELERS 
— BLOODrSTAINED  SNOW — NO  ACCOUNTING  FOR  THE 
PHENOMENON — WE  ENTER  SMITH'S  *SOUND  AND  MEET 
WITH  GREAT  OBSTACLES — THE  AUTHOR'S  PECULIAR 
HARDSHIPS — HIS  UNPOPULARITY  AMONG  THE  OFFICERS « 
— HINTS  FOR  AMERICAN  SEAMEN. 

Smith's  Sound,  or  Smith's  Strait,  (as  Dr.  Kane  h 
pleased  to  call  it),  extends  almost  due  northward  from 
the  Capes  Alexander  and  Isabella  to  the  ^*  open  polar 
sea,"  discovered  by  Mr.  Morton,  steward  of  the  Advance, 
in  whose  statement  Dr.  Kane  appears  to  place  unlimited 
confidence.  However,  as  much  depends  on  the  correct- 
ness of  Mr.  Morton's  statement,  I  will  take  the  liberty 
to  remark  that  he  may  have  possibly  been  mistaken. 
The  Arctic  regions  are  a  kind  of  '*  Dreamland,"  in 
which  people  are  apt  to  imagine  that  they  see  more  than 
is  to  be  seen.  We  have  an  example  of  the  kind  in  the 
famous  discovery  of  the  "  Croker  Mountains,"  by  Cap- 
tain Boss.  These  mountains,  supposed  to  be  situated 
near  the  entrance  of  Lancaster  Sound,  never  had  any 
existence  except  in  the  imagination  of  the  Captain  just 


tv 


OBINNELL  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


61 


named.     And  yet  very  few  people  suppose  that  Captain 
Ross  intended  to  deceive.     One  eflfept  of  the  extreme 
cold  in  the  polar  regions  is  to  make  some  persons  de- 
lirious;  and,  under  the  influence  of  their  temporary 
phrenzy,  such  persons  may  persuade  themselves  that 
they  see  objects  which  have  no  real  existence.     I  could 
give  the  reader  many  striking  exemplifications  of  this 
curious  fact ;  but  one  instance,  in  particular,  occurs  to 
my  remembrance.     Once  when  Dr.  Kane  and  I  were 
traveling  together  in  the  interior  of  Greenland,  the 
cold  was  so  excessive  that  the  Doctor  partially  lost  his 
senses.    At  this  time  he  fancied  that  we  were  pursued 
by  a  bear;  and  so  strong  was  the* impression  on  his 
mind,  that  he  often  referred  to  the  circumstance  after- 
ward, seeming  to  have  no  doubt  that  it  was  a  veritable 
fact.    Now,  to  my  certain  knowledge,  no  bear  was  seen 
while  we  werg  on  that  journey,  and  the  one  which  the 
Poctor  thought  he  saw  must  have  been  an  ideal  creation. 
Various  circumstances  incline  me  to  suspect  that  Mr. 
Morton  labored  under  a  similar  hallucination  when  he 
thought  that  he  saw  an  open  polar  sea  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  Smith's  Sound.     If  such  a  sea  exists,  it  is 
a  settled  fact  thr.t  Greenland  is  an  island,  and  not  a 
peninsula  or  a  part  of  an  arctic  continent.     I  do  not 
think  that  the  statement  of  one  man  should  settle  a 
question  of  so  much  iirportance  to  geographical  science ; 
and,  while  I  acquit  Mr.  Morton  of  any  intention  to 
mislead  the  public  mind  on  this  subject,  I  feel  justified 
in  warning  future  navigators  not  to  place  too  much  re- 
liance on  his  supposed  discovery.  ^ 


! 


I 


60 


Godfrey's  narrative  of  the 


i » 


*f  . 


r  I 


\l 


We  reached  Cape  Alexander,  at  the  entrance  of 
Smith's  Sound,  on  the  6th  of  August.  At  this  cape, 
as  \rell  as  on  many  other  parts  of  the  Greenland  coast, 
there  is  a  rock  embankment  several  hundred  feet  in 
height.  The  shelving  rocks  on  the  coast  are  usually 
covered  with  snow;  but  the  precipices  are  bare,  and 
present  a  hideously  frowning  and  gloomy  appearance. 
At  some  points,  the  snow  on  the  lofty  embankment  is 
almost  as  red  as  blood,  especially  at  a  place  called 
"  Crimson  Cliifs,"  near  Cape  Dudley  Digges.  I  have 
heard  that  snow  often  assumes  this  appearance  in  cer- 
tain situations.  Captain  Boss  observed  the  same  phe- 
nomenon at  varioua^points  on  the  shore  of  Melville  Bay. 
Saursure  witnessed  a  similar  appearance  of  the  snow 
on  some  ya.TtB  of  the  Alps,  and  Martin  observed  the 
same  thing  at  Spitzbergen.  It  seems,  then,  that  the 
cause  of  the  appearance,  whatever  it  may  be,  is  not 
confined  to  any  particular  locality.  Curiosity  induced 
me  to  examine  the  snow  at  "  Crimson  Cliffs,"  and,  with 
the  Captain's  permission,  I  took  a  boat  and  went  ashore 
for  that  purpose.  The  snow  on  these  cliffs  appeared 
to  be  stained  by  some  foreign  substance,  and  I  expected 
to  find  the  discoloration  only  on  the  surface ;  but,  to 
my  great  surprise,  the  same  crimson  hue  was  observable 
when  I  had  dug  through  the  snow  to  the  depth  of  ten 
feet.  At  the  same  time,  I  satisfied  myself  that  the 
coloring*  process  did  not  begin  at  the  bottom,  for,  in  all 
cases,  the  lower  stratum  of  snow,  or  that  portion  which 
was  in  immediate  contact  with  the  rock,  was  white. 
But  for  this  circumstance,  I  might  have  suspected  that 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


61 


the  unusual  color  of  the  snow  is  caused  by  some  pecu- 
liarity of  the  rock  on  which  it  rests.     I  am  sorry  that 
I  am  unable  to  offer  the  reader  any  satisfactory  expla- 
I  nation  of  this  curious  matter ;  and  I  do  not  know  that 
[it  has  ever  been  explained  in  a  manner  to  satisfy  any 
[rational  inquirer. 

If  Smith's  Sound  had  been  navigable,  it  would  have 
I  offered  us  a  passage  in  the  direction  we  wished  to  travel, 
nearly  to  the  northern  parts  of  Greenland.     But  we 
80on  ascertained  that  sailing  up  this  Sound  was  an  ex- 
tremely diflficult  undertaking ;  for  this  piece  of  water  is 
[incumbered  with  ice  at  all  seasons ;  and,  for  much  the 
[greater  part  of  the  year,  sailing  is  entirely  out  of  the 
[uestion.    From  the  time  we  passed  Cape  Alexander, 
it  the  entrance  of  the  Sound,  the  brig,  fo>*  all  purposes 
)f  progression,  might  as  well  have  been  a  scow  or  a 
raft,  or  any  other  nautical  contrivance  without  masts 
)r  sails.    These  appendages  were  now  entirely  useless. 
Tor  there  was   not  sea-room   enough   to  make  them 
jerviceable.     The  only  open  track  through  which  the 
)rig   could  pass,  was  a  narrow   "lead,"  or  lane  of 
rater,  near  the  shore,  where  the  ice  had  been  partially 
broken  up  by  tho  waves.      Our  only  mode  of  progres- 
sion was  by  "trailing"  or  "warping;"  a  toilsome  pro- 
cess, which  consists  in  affixing  a  line  or  hawser  to  some 
Object  ahead,  and  dragging  the  vessel  along  by  winding 
ip  the  rope  on  the  capstan.     In  this  way,  whole  days 
rere  consumed  in  advancing  a  few  miles,  the  men  being  ' 
|xhausted  by  severe  labor  and  discouraged  by  their 
trdy  progress.     I  believe   Captain    Kane    himself 
6  * 


#1 


\k. 


u 


63 


Godfrey's  narrative  ov  the 


I 


aokno^r^edges  that  a  full  share  of  these  laborious  opera- 
tions devolved  on  me.  In  bodily-  strength  and  activity 
I  was  superior  to  mj  comrades ;  and,  owing  to  some 
peculiarity  of  constitution,  I  was  but  little  affected  by 
the  cold,  although  I  wore  less  clothing  than  any.^other 
man  in  the  brig.  I  was  generally  selected,  therefore, 
for  the  performance  of  those  tasks  which  involved  most 
toil  and  hardship;  and,  by  degrees,  I  became  a/ac 
totum;  assistant-cook,  journeyman  carpenter,  dog- 
trainer-general,  sledge-driver,  seal-skin  breeches  and 
boot-maker,  bear  and  fox  hunter;  in  short,  Caleb 
^v  Quotem  himself  had  not  a  greater  variety  of  occupa- 
tions. But,  although  I  was  acknowledged  to  be  a  useful 
member  of  our  arctic  community,  I  never  had  the  good 
fortune  to  become  a  favorite  with  our  officers.  Doubt- 
less my  unpopularity  among  the  aristocracy  of  the  brig 
was,  in  some  measure,  the  effect  of  a  certain  inflexibility 
of  disposition,  for  which  Yankees,  in  all  situations,  are 
more  or  less  remarkable.  The  discipline  of  the  Navy 
requires  the  common  seamen  to  be  humble  and  submis- 
sive to  their  superiors,  viz.,  the  officers ;  and  the  latter 
often  exact  as  much  homage  from  the  sailors  as  a  king 
could  expect  to  receive  from  his  subjects.  My  early 
training,  my  feelings  of  independence  and  sense  of 
equality,  did  not  qualify  me  for  the  station  in  which 
I  had  thoughtlessly  placed  myself;  and  hence,  without 
intending  to  offend  the  officers,  I  often  excited  their 
indignation  'and  resentment.  I  felt  little  respect  or 
affection  for  some  official  personages  on  board  of  the 
Advance,  and  what  I  did  not  feel,  I  did  not  choose  to 


a?. 


OAINNELL  XXPLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


68 


affect  However,  I  did  my  duty  faithfully,  and  treated 
the  officers  with  as  much  deference  as  I  supposed  the 
exigencies  of  the  service  to  require.  In  this  connec- 
tion, I  feel  constrained  to  say  that  the  naval  service 
of  the  United  States,  as  well  as  that  of  Great  Britain, 
must  be  grievously  oppressive  to  any  seaman  or  sub- 
ordinate officer  who  has  that  nice  sense  of  honor,  and 
that  innate  feeling  of  justice,  which  impel  a  man  to 
resist  tyranny  and  wrong.  The  spirit  of  freedom  and 
independence  is  sadly  out  of- place  on  the  fore-deck,  as 
the  American  navy  is  now  constituted ;  and  I  do  not 
wonder  that  our  national  ships  are  manned  chiefly  by 
foreigners,  as  few  natives  of  the  American  soil  are  base 
and  slavish  enough  to  submit  to  the  hard  and  humiliat- 
ing requirements  of  our  sea-service,  unless  they  are 
privileged  to  walk  the  quarter-deck. 


\ 


G4 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THB 


CHAPTER    VII. 

WE  VISIT  A  DESOLATE  ISLAND — MBLANCHOLT  SIGNS  OP 
FORMER  INHABITANTS — WE  ARE  FROZEN  UP — EXTRI- 
CATE  OURSELVES  BY  HARD  LABOR — ANCHOR  UNDER  GOD- 
SEND LfiDGE — TERRIFIC  STORM — DESPERATE  SITUA- 
TION OF  THE  ADVANCE — A  BOLD  EXPEDIENT — WE  ARE 
AGAIN  TOWED  BY  AN  ICEBERG — OUR  MIRACULOUS  DE- 
LIVERANCE— PROBABLE  FATE  OF  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 


A  SMALL  patch  of  ground,  or  rock,  (to  speak  more 
properly),  called  Littleton  Island,  lies  near  the  entrance 
of  Smith's  Sound.  August  6,  we  landed  on  this  island, 
which  is  destitute  of  all  vegetation  except  a  certain 
kind  of  moss  which  grows  on  the  rocks.  Scarcely  any 
thing  was  visible  except  masses  of  rocks  and  lumps  of 
ice;  but,  after  walking  a  little  way  from  the  shore, 
we  were  surprised  to  find  the  ruins  of  Exquimaux  huts. 
It  is  hard  to  imagine  how  any  human  beings  could  live 
in  such  a  frightful  place ;  and  there  was  reason  to 
think  that  the  former  inhabitants  of  this  desolate  isle 
had*  perished  either  with  hunger  or  cold.  Skeletons 
were  found  lying  on  the  ground,  near  the  remains  of 
the  wretched  dwellings.  We  thought  it  possible  that  one 
hundred  and'  fifty  or  two  hundred  years  had  elapsed 
since  the  place  was  inhabited,  as  many  of  the  bones 
had  almost  crumbled  to  dust. 


ORINNELL  SXPLOBINQ  IXPEDITION 


65 


We  erected  a  cairn  on  this  island  and  deposited 
some  provisions  and  other  articles,  which  we  thought 
might  he  useful  on  our  return.  On  the  8th,  we  an- 
chored in  a  small  cove,  to  which  our  Commander  gave 
the  name  of  Refuge  Harbor ;  where  we  were  soon 
locked  up  by  the  ice.  By  cutting  and  sawing  at  the 
floes  we  succeeded,  with  immense  labor,  in  opening  a 
track,  through  which  the  brig  was  warped  along  the 
shore  for  several  miles,  until  we  reached  an  isolated 
rock,  to  which  Dr.  Kane  gave  the  title  of  Godsend 
Ledge.  I  suppose  he  intended  this  name  as  a  grateful 
acknowledgment  of  the  protection  which  the  rock 
afforded  us  from  the  drifting  ice.  Under  the  lee  of 
this  rock  we  remained  in  security  until  the  20th  of 
August ;  when  the  gale,  which  had  been  rather  **  stiff' 
for  several  days,  became  a  storm  of  extraordinary 
violence.  Our  situation  now,  with  a  rock  on  one  side, 
and  a  raging  sea,  incumbered  with  huge  fragments  of 
ice,  on  the  other,  began  to  look  very  threatening.  The 
chief  danger  was  from  the  ice-billows,  or  large  cakes 
and  lumps  of  ice  which  were  tossed  about  by  the  surg- 
ing waves  with  such  force  as  to  make  it  appear  that 
no  vessel  could  live  among  them.  Our  position  under 
the  lee  of  the  rock  was  comparatively  safe ;  bat  how 
was  that  position  to  be  maintained  ?  The  brig  'had 
three  several  moorings  :  a  chain-cable,  a  whale  line  and 
a  ten-inch  Manilla  hawser.  The  latter  was  our  chief 
dependence.  The  force  of  the  rushing  tide  and  that  of 
the  hurricane  combined,  put  our  fastenings  to  a  severe 
test.  The  chain-cable  was  the  first  to  give  way ;  it 
6*      • 


HL 


'I 

if 


w 


u 


t 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OP  THE 

parted  with  a  sharp  car-torturing  snap  ;  the  brig  fell 
back  and  hauled  the  whale  line  taut ;  this  rope  stretched 
and  chafed  for  u  few  minutes  and  then  gave  way  with 
a  sonorous  twang.     The  Manilla  cable  now  appeared  to 
be  "  the  thread  of  our  destiny,"  and  a  pretty  stout 
one  it  was — but  no  string  spun  by  mortal  man  could 
have  withstood  that  racket.     The  reader  may  judge 
what  forces  we  had  to  contend  with,  when  he  under- 
stands that  they  were  sufficient  to  break  a  rqpe  made 
in  the  best  style,  and  of  the  best  material,  and  as  thick 
as  a  man's  body.     When  that  rope  gave  way,  some  of 
us  thought  of  saying  our  last  prayer  ;  but  one  or  two, 
on  "  sober  second  thought,"  concluded  to  d — n  our  ill- 
luck  ;  and,  in  these  orisons,  all  of  those  who  had  any 
hand  in  getting  up  the  Expedition  were  remembered. 
After  awhile,  however,  it  seemed  that  there  were  some 
on  board   who  were  not   fated   to  be  drowned ;  for 
although  the  brig  was  now  at  liberty  to  be  smashed  and 
go  the  bottom,  if  she  thought  proper,  she  preferred  to 
keep  afloat,  and  really  she  behaved  wonderfully  well 
when  she  was  whirled  out  among  the  wildly  pitching  and 
plunging  masses  of  ice,  many  of  which  were  twice  as 
large  as  the  brig  herself;   and  the  way  in  which  they 
knocked  each  other  to  pieces,  showed  what  they  would  be 
certain  to  do  if  they  came  in  collision  with  our  vessel. 
I  succeeded  in  reconciling  myself  to  what  seemed  to 
be  my  certain  doom ;  for  I  considered  the  destruction 
of  the  brig  and  the  loss  of  all  on  board  as  inevitable. 
At  that  moment  of  dreadful  expectation,  it  afforded  me 
some  comfort  to  reflect  that  few  of  our  company  were 


OBINNELL  EXPLORINU  EXPEDITION. 


67 


married  men,  and  that,  consequently,  there  would  be 
but  few  disconsolate  widows  made  by  our  misadventure. 
I  sincerely  hoped  that  no  future  Expedition  would  bo 
sdnt  out  to  search  for  us ;  for  I  had  no  desire  that  other 
lives  should  be  sacrificed  "  to  grace  our  fall  and  make 
our  ruin  glorious." 

Most  fortunately  for  us,  the  brig  was  driven  by  the 
wind  and  waves  shoreward,  where  an  open  lane  of 
water  between  the  land-ice  and  the  "pack,"  gave  us  an 
opportunity  to  warp  our  vessel  along  and  keep  her 
away  from  the  driving  current.  Northward,  whcro  the 
Sound  becomes  narrower,  we  could  see  the  floating  ico 
driven  as  it  were,  to  a  focus,  by  the  tide  ;  there  the  large 
cakes  of  ice  ground  and  dashed  against  each  other,  in 
a  manner  frightful  to  behold ;  and  if  the  Advance. 
should  be  forced  into  that  chaotic  whirlpool  of  ice  and 
water,  it  appeared  certain  that  she  must  be  pulverized 
like  a  grain  of  corn  in  a  grist-mill.  In  that  case,  no', 
an  individual  on  board  could  have  possibly  escaped  to 
tell  the  story,  and  our  fate  would  have  been  as  myste- 
rious as  that  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  brig  being  now  adrift,  and  the  probability  being 
that  she  would  "  bring  up  "  in  soma  position  from  which 
she  could  not  be  extricated,  all  hands  madej)reparation 
to  leave  her,  at  short  notice.  Every  man  put  up  \m 
"  kit,"  and  made  himself  ready  for  a  journey  over  the 
ice,  as  this  appeared  to  be  the  only  means  of  escape. 
In  the  meanwhile,  we  tried  to  make  the  best  of  existing 
circumstances.  The  gale  was  still  vei-y  violent,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  scad  beforo  it  with  a  reefed  top-sail ; 


68 


GODFREY'S  NABBATIYE  OF  THE 


1.1 


as  any  attempt  to  withstand  the  forces  which  were 
operating  on  us,  would  merely  have  laade  matters  worse. 
We  passed  a  fearful  night,  in  constant  expectation  of 
having  our  vessel  dashed  to  pieces,  and  in  the  morning 
we  found  ourselves  on  the  very  edge  of  that  dangerous 
whirlpool  of  ice  and  water,  to  which  reference  has  pre- 
viously been  made.  At  this  point,  the  Sound  makei)  a 
bend  to  the  north-eastward,  and  the  reaction  of  the 
current  against  a  projection  of  land,  called  Cape  Sabine, 
produced  a  violent  commotion  of  the  waves  and 
their  superincumbent  masses  of  ice.  To  keep  the  brig 
out  of  this  frightful  vortex,  we  put  out  our  heavies  I; 
anchor ;  but  this  experiment  succeeded  so  badly,  that 
we  soon  had  reason  to  wish  it  had  not  been  tried.  As 
soon  as  the  course  of  the  brig  was  arrested  by  the 
anchor,  the  pressure  of  the  ice,  which  was  sent  against 
our  devoted  vessel  hy  the  resistless  force  of  the  current, 
made  a  complete  wreck  of  the  sternpost  and  rudder, 
and  the  work  of  destruction  would  soon  have  extended 
to  other  parts  of  the  brig,  had  we  not  immediately  cast 
loose  the  chain-cable,  and  permitted  the  vessel  to  drive 
ahead,  by  leaving  her  anchor  at  the  bottom  of  the 
Sound.  Once  more  at  the  mercy  of  the  wind  and  tide, 
the  brig  dashed  on  among  the  ice-breakers,  rasping 
her  side  against  a  floe  forty  feet  thick,  and  soon  knock- 
ing her  starboard  bow  against  a  lump  of  ice  as  big  as  a 
church.  By  t];iis  accident  some  of  our  forward  wood- 
work was  smashed  to  small  pieces,  and  about  a  dozen 
cart-loads  of  ice  were  deposited  on  our  deck.  Just 
«head  of  us,  now  appeared  half  a  dozen  icebergs,  of 

#;■     ■        ■ 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


6«r 


various  shapes  and  sizes,  among  which  the  current 
would  soon  carry  us,  and  a  collision  with  which  appeared 
to  be  unavoidable.  Several  of  these  bergs  wore  a  very 
threatening  aspect,  as  their  tops  projected  far  over  the 
water,  and  produced  the  impression  that  they  must  soon 
turn  over  or  break  ofif  at  the  summit.  These  tricks  are 
very  common  with  icebergs,  and  we  had  already  made 
several  narrow  escapes  from  the  eflfects  thereof.  The 
reader  may  form  some  idea  of  the  danger  which 
mariners  might  incur  from  the  sudden  whirling  over  of 
an  iceberg  more  than  two  hundred  feet  high.  The  . 
peril  is  scarcely  less  when  a  large  fragment  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  top*  of  a  berg  and  falls  into  the  sea. 
Our  brig  has  often  passed  under  projections  of  icebergs 
which  extended  a  hundred  feet  beyond  the  base  line, 
at  an  elevation  far  above  our  mast-heads ;  and  in  some 
cases  it  is  necessary  to  go  under  these  dangerous  pcnt» 
houses,  when  the  "  lead,"  or  lane  of  open  water  hap-  ^- 
pens  to  pass  close  to  the  berg.  ■■}.  ?  .tv  ; 

On  the  occasion  I  am  now  speakir-^  of,  we  adopted 
an  expedient  which  had  been  successful  once  before : 
steering  our  course  directlyfor  an  iceberg,  and  send- 
ing out  a  boat  to  fasten  an  ice- anchor  in  the  side  of  the  ' 
floating  mountain.  The  berg,  having  thus  been  made 
to  take  us  in  tow,  pulled  us  along  briskly,  and  besides  ■ 
kept  an  open  track  for  us,  by  pushing  aside  the  smaller 
masses  of  ice  which  obstructed  our  path.  Neverthe- 
less we  were  obliged  to  keep  close  in  the  rear  of  the 
berg  which  was  dragging  us,  because  the  track  which 
it  opened  was  soon  closed  again,  by  the  drifting  ice 


4 


10 


QODFRET'S  narrative  01*  THE 


from  each  side.  Other  bergs  likewise  pressed  in  upon 
us  so  closely,  that  one  of  our  boats  would  have  beeu 
stove,  had  we  not  removed  it  from  the  davits.  At  one 
time  we  were  between  two  bergs,  whose  perpendicular 
walls  were  higher  than  our  masts,  and  they  were  ap- 
proaching each  other  so  rapidly,  that  we  deemed  it 
almost  impossible  to  escape  before  they  should  come 
together.  In  fact,  the  stern  of  the  Advance  was 
scarcely  clear  of  them,  when  they  came  in  contact  with 
a  frightful  crash,  breaking  and  grinding  off  huge  frag- 
ments, and  half  demolishing  each  other  by  the  force  of 
the  encounter. 

Nothing  but  the  daring  expedient  of  attaching  our 
brig  to  an  iceberg,  could  have  saved  us  from  total 
destruction.  Supposing  that  the  Advance  had  been 
crushed  between  those  two  icebergs,  which  came  in 
such  formidable  collision  with  each  other,  is  it  not  pro- 
bable that,  like  **  the  cloud-capt  towers,  the  gorgeous 
palaces,"  &c-,  we  would  have  left  "not  a  wreck  be- 
hind ?"  Every  spar,  plank,  and  piece  of  timber,  and 
every  man  on  board  would  have  been  overwhelmed  in 
the  icy  ruins ;  and  every  vestige  of  the  brig  and  its 
inhabitants  would,  in  all  likelihood,  have  been  hidden 
forever  under  the  frozen  surface  of  Smith's  Sound. 
The  broken  ice  which  swallowed  us  up  would  soon  have 
become  reconsolidated,  and  humane  adventurers 
coming  in  search  of  us,  might  have  passed  over  our 
mortal  remains,  without  suspecting  that  we  were  em- 
tombed  in  an  icy  sepulchre  below.  And  is  it  very  un- 
likely that  Captain  Franklin  and  his  company  may  have 


GRINNELL  EXPLORXNG  EXPEDITION. 


11 


met  with  a  similur  accident,  and  that  they  are  now 
awaiting  the  call  of  the  last  trumpet  in  a  crystal  mau- 
Boleum,  the  locality  of  which  will  never  be  known  to 
mortal  man  ? 

The  storm  which  we  experienced  in  Smith's  Sound 
was  sufficient  to  have  annihilated  forty  ships  ::  a  ad  our 
escape  was  a  mere  fortuitous  event,  or  a  providential 
deliverance,  which  would  not  be  likely  to  occur  again 
in  the  same  circumstances ;  for  chance  or  Providence 
seldom  favors  those  who  expose  themselves  to  unneces- 
sary hazards  for  unattainable  objects. 


-*V^V.      -N,:, 


"     * 


13 


1l 


n 


:\ 


I . 


72 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THB 


CHAPTER    VIII     , 

ABATEMENT  OP  THB  STORM — REPAIRING  DAMAGES — DR. 
KANE  AND  SEVERAL  OTHER  PERSONS  GET  ADRIFT — 
THE  AUTHOR  GOES  TO  THER  ASSISTANCE — A  GOLDEN 
OPPORTUNITY  LOST — THE  COMMANDER'S  PROJECTS — 
A  CONSULTATION  OP  THB  WHOLE  BRIG'S  COMPA- 
NY— THB  AUTHOR  MAKES  A  SPEECH  WHICH  ASTON- 
ISHES AND  DISPLEASES  THB  OFFICERS— HE  IS  SUS- 
PECTED OP  A  MUTINOUS  DISPOSITION. 

During  the  terrific  scene  which  I  have  attempted  to 
describe  in  the  last  chapter,  severe,:  of  our  crew  were 
exposed  to  still  greater  dangers  than  those  which 
threatened  the  whole  of  the  brig's  company.  When- 
ever the  vessel  came  in  collision  with  the  land-ice,  some 
of  us  were  sent  out  with  lines  and  ice-anchors,  with  the 
hope  of  making  the  brig  fast.  In  the  performance  of 
this  duty,  we  were  obliged  to  get  out  on  the  icy  plat- 
form, and  sometimes  6n  movable  cakes  or  lumps  of  ice, 
which  heaved  and  tossed  with  the  motion  of  the  sea, 
making  it  almost  impossible  for  us  to  maintain  our  foot- 
ing ;  aiid  a  slip,  in  such  circumstances,  might  have  been 
fatal.  Bonsall  slipped  between  two  fragments  and  nar- 
rowly escaped  a  "  nip."     Myself  and  three  o^ers  got 


ORINNELL  EXPLORINQ    EXPEDITION. 


Y8 


adrift  on  an  ice-cake,  and  were  compelled  to  weather 
the  storm  in  this  singular  barque,  as  all  our  efforts  to 
get  on  board  of  the  brig  were  fruitless. 

As  a  finale  to  this  sTorm-scene,  I  may  mention  that 
the  Advance  was  driven,  peak  foremost,  on  an  inclined 
plane  of  ice,  which  formed  the  side  of  a  stationary  berg. 
Here,  with  the  "'  '^g  and  falling  of  the  waves,  she 
alternately  ascenu^d  the  plane,  falling  on  her  beam-ends, 
and  slipped  back  again  to  the  water,  assuming  her 
right  position.  All  this  time  masses  of  ice  were  thrown 
against  her  side,  by  the  force  of  the  waves,  with  a  con- 
cussion which  made  her  timbers  creak,  and  convinced 
every  man  on  board  that-she  could  not  stand  this  racket 
for  half  an  hour.  But  our  anti-drowning  destiny  pre- 
vailed ;  the  wind  gradually  subsided,  and  the  violence 
of  the  waves  perceptibly  abated.  While  the  brig  was 
performing  her  maneuvers  on  the  sloping  side  of  the 
berg,  I  and  my  three  companions  who  had  been  adrift 
on  an  ice-cake,  were  carried  by  the  current  to  another 
part  of  the  same  inclined  plane  ;  which,  with  much  hard 
scrambling,  we  ascended,  and  embracing  the  opportu- 
nity when  the  brig  was  thrown  on  her  side,  we  con- 
trived to  get  aboard. 

After  the  agitation  of  the  waters  had  ceased  and  we 
had  taken  some  rest  and  refreshment,  efforts  were 
made  to  place  the  brig  in  a  safer  situation.  The  car- 
penter made  some  necessary  repairs,  as  the  hull  of  the 
vessel  had  been  considerably  damaged  in  her  late  strug-.-. 
gle.  We  then  recommenced  the  labor  of  warping,  and 
thus  managed  to  proceed  northward,  along  the  edge  of 


II 


ii 

H 


I  f 

I 


#* 


u 


Godfrey's  narrative  of  the 


the  land-ice,  five  or  six  miles.  Dr.  Kane,  Mr.  Brooks, 
rnd  two  of  the  seamen,  in  the  mean  time,  took  a  boat 
and  went  out  to  make  explorations,  leaving  the  brigv*| 
under  the  command  of  Mr.  x)blsen,  the  carpenter. 
They  were  obliged  to  leave  their  boat,  which  became 
entangled  among  some  floating  ice ;  and  the  captain  and 
his  companions  came  back  on  a  floe  which  the  wind  was 
driving  away  from  the  land-ice,  to  which  the  brig  at 
this  time  was  moored.  I  took  a  boat,  and  rowed  hard 
after  the  floe,  which  seemed  disposed  to  abduct  our 
commander  and  the  gentlemen  who  were  with  him. 
The  icC'Cake,  impelled  by  the  tide,  bore  them  away  so 
rapidly  that  I  almost  despaired  of  being  able  to  over- 
take them  ;  butj  by  dint  of  great  exertion,  I  succeeded 
in  sculling  the  boat  up  against  the  floe  and  holding 
it  there  until  they  all  got  on  board.  Had  this  floe 
taken  the  Doctor  off,  I  think  it  likely  that  he  would 
have  reached  "  the  open  polar  sea"  discovered  by  Mr. 
Morton,  or  some  other  distant  locality,  from  which  it 
would  have  been  no  easy  matter  to  return. 

Before  Dr.  Kane  left  the  brig,  he  had  given  orders 
to  have  every  thing  ready  for  sailing,  and  it  was  gen- 
erally supposed  on  board  that  he  intended  to  move 
homeward ;  as  he  must  have  been  satisfied  by  this  time 
that  it  was  utterly  impossible  to  ascend  Smith's  Sound 
much  further  in  such  a  vessel  as  the  Advance.  Such  a 
feat  could  be  accomplished  only  by  a  steam  propeller, 
built  or  fitted  up  expressly  for  the  "purpose.  Had  we 
sailed  immediately,  the  Advance  might  have  been 
brought  out  of  the  Sound,  for  strong  south-rastern 


.  Brooks, 

k  a  boat 

the  brig 

arpenter. 

became 
)tain  and 
wind  was 

brig  at 

wed  hard 

duct  our 

rith  him. 

I  away  so 

I  to  over- 

ucceeded 

1  holding 

this  floe 

he  would 

I  by  Mr. 

which  it 

n  orders 
was  gen- 
to  move 
this  time 
's  Sound 
Such  a 
ropeller, 
Had  we 
ve  been 
i-rastern 


'* 


;■ '  :^^^j^ 


# 


'mk 


•«#<'•■ 


QBINNELL  EXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 


17 


winds  had  opened  the  ice  sufficiently  for  the  purpose. 
But  i)r.  Kane',  at  this  time,  appears  to  have  turned  his 
attention  to  land  travel ;  and  with  this  object  in  view, 
he  concluded  to  place  the  brig  in  some  convenient  har- 
bor, which  might  serve  as  a  starting  point  for  the  sledge 
parties  which  he  intended  to  send  out  further  to  the  North. 
Petersen,  the  Danish  interpreter,  and  Wilson  were  sent 
out  to  look  for  some  eligible  locality  in  which  the  brig 
might  pass  the  winter.  At  the  expiration  of  eight-and- 
forty  hours  they  returned*  without  having  discovered 
any  quarters  which  might  answer  our  purpose.  They 
reported  that  they  had  seen  tracks  of  bears  and  rein- 
deer, and  they  had  found  a  skull,  which  appeared  to 
have  belonged  to  a  musk-ox ;  but  while  on  this  excur- 
sion they  had  met  with  no  living  animals  except  a  few 
seals.  •  , 

We  now  held  a  grand  consultation,  in  which  all  hands 
on  board  (common  sailors  not  excepted),  were  invited 
to  take  a  part ;  the  object  being  to  decide  what  course 
it  was  most  expedient  for  us  to  pursue.  Some  of  our 
fellows  were  more  or  less  home-sick,  and  I  dare  say  they 
would  have,  given  their  vote  for  an  immediate  return  to 
the  United  States,  promising  themselves  more  comfort 
in  the  arms  of  their  wives  and  doxies  than  in  the  chill- 
ing embraces  of  the  polar  seas.  But  our  mere  expe- 
rienced seamen  had  sense  enough  to  know  that  they 
were  expected  to  coincide  in  opinion  with  the  officers ; 
they  were  therefore  very  backward  about  expressing 
any  views  until  they  should  learn  what  might  be  the 
prevailing  sentiment  on  the  quarter-deck.  I,  being  but 
■    7* 

m 


%' 


78 


GODFREY'S  NABEATIVE  OF  THB 


a  **  green-horn/*  ootnparativelj  speakings  was  nibt  con- 
yersant  with  the  usages  and  etiquette  of  ^he  naval  ser- 
vice in  such  cases  as  that  which  now  claimed  our  atten- 
tion ;  and,  when  requested  to  declare  what  appeared  to 
me  to  be  the  proper  line  of  conduct  for  men  in  our 
situation  to  pursue,  I  frankly  stated  that  I  could  see 
no  use  in  proceeding  any  further  on  the  voyage. 

"  As  for  Captain  Franklin,"  said  I,  **  no  doubt  he  is 
safe  in  heaven,  if  he  was  as  brave  a  commander  and  as 
good  a  man  as  the  books  and  newspapers  represent  him ; 
and^  we  desire  to  follow  him  to  that  celestial  harbor,  we 
can  do  so  by  a  safer  and  more  agreeable  route  than 
through  the  polar  seas.  Should  we  succeed  in  finding 
his  dead  body,  something  would  be  gained,  I  confess ; 
for  public  curiosity  might  then  be  satisfied,  and  no  pre- 
tense would  be  left  for  future  adventurers  to  undertake 
this  dangerous  voyage  on  the  score  of  humanity.  But 
even  these  good  effects,  such  as  they  are,  would  not 
follow  our  discovery,  unless  we  could  return  and  com- 
municate that  discovery  to  the  world.  Should  we  suc- 
ceed in  reaching  that  point  where  this  veteran  arctic 
navigator  and  his  hardy  companions  could  not  live,  is 
it  not  likely  that  we  should  perish  as  they  did  ?  The 
same  circumstances  which  were  fatal  to  them  might  be 
equally  so  to  us.  And  if  wo  should  shaie  the  fate  of 
our  unfortunate  predecessors,  of  what  avail  would  our 
discoveries  be  to'the  world,  even  if  we  should  ascertain 
how,  when,  and  where  Captain  Franklin  and  his  com- 
pany perished  ? 
'     **  As  for  any  other  motives  for  continuing  our  ex 

m 


GBINNELL  EXFLORINO  EXPEDITION. 


79 


plorations  in  these  regions,  I  know  of  none  which  can 
be  expected  to  have  much  influence  on  the  subordinate 
members  of  this  expedition.  Granting  that  it  would 
be  a  glorious  achievement  to  plant  the  American  flag 
on  the  pivot  of  the  earth's  axis,  we  who  handle  the 
ropes  would  seldom  be  mentioned  in  connection  with 
that  achievement,  wherefore  the  expectation  of  fame  or  . 
glory  cannot  be  a  very  great  inducement  with  us.  Be- 
side^ I  can  scarcely  think  it  possible  that  any  man  on 
this  deck,  after  all  the  experience  we  have  had,  believes 
that  there  is  any  chance  of  reaching  the  North  Pole  by 
this  route,  and  with  such  means  of  travel  as  we  possess. 
I  do  not  know  what  other  discoveries  of  importance 
may  be  contemplated ;  but,  until  I  am  better  instructed, 
I  entertain  the  notion  that  the  wisest  course  would  be 
to  turn  the  head  of  the  Advance  southward,  and  either 
to  steer  homeward,  or  to  take  another  route  by  the  way 
of  Lancaster  Sound,  where  we  may  possibly  be  able  to 
make  some  progress;  whereas,  on  the  present  track, 
there  is  no  likelihood  that  the  brig  will  ever  be  con- 
ducted fifty  miles  further  to  the  North." 

I  had  been  invited  to  express  my  opinion,  and  I  did 
so  with  a  degree  of  freedom  which  seemed  to  give  some 
offense  to  the  officers.  However,  I  received  only  a 
little  browbeating  to  correct  my  presumption,  and  then 
the  consultation  proceeded,  with  all  due  formality,  until 
it  was  finally  resolved  that  we  should  continue  to  warp 
the  brig  northward  until  we  should  find  a  convenient 
winter  harbor. 

I  had  reason  to  suspect  afterward,  that  my  incon- 


i 


i 

i1 


I 


iU 


\ 


80 


OODFRET's  NARilATIVE  OF^THS 


Biderate  speech  at  this  consultation  was  regarded  by 
some  of  the  officers  as  a  slj  demonstration  of  mutiny ; 
and  Captain  Kane  himself  seems  to  have  listened  to 
some  such  suggestions,  as  he  afterward  gave  me  credit, 
on  several  occasions,  for  more  self-will  than  was  be- 
coming in  "  a  man  before  the  mast."  The  Captain 
misconstrued  me  somewhat ;  but  I  do  confess  that  I  was 
not  prepared,  at  all  points,  to  fill  a  station  in  which 
humility  and  submissiveness  were  the  most  desirable 
and  indispensable  qualifications. 


V" 


i-ttLiA" 


*t 


* 


#., 


QRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


81 


CHAPTER   IX. 

t 

THE  ADVANOB  PROOBEDS  FURTHER  NORTHWARD — HARD 
WORK  FOR  THE  BAILORS — THE  AUTHOR  AND  SEVERAL 
OTHERS  OF  THE  GREW  START  ON  A  SLEDGE  JOURNEY — 
THET  BREAK  THROUGH  THE  lOE — SEVERE  SUFFER- 
INGS— HYDROPATHY — SLEEPING  IN  ICE — TROUBLE- 
SOME COOKING — ASCENT  OF  AN  ICEBERG-— A  SINGU- 
LAR FOX-HUNT  —  A  PRIZE  SECURED GREAT  RE- 
JOICINGS— ^ACCOUNT  OF  THE  BLUE  FOX — ITS  VALUABLB 
FUR,  40.                                               '-    '   _  -N    :'  .    -     ■<  . 


According  to  the  resolutions  which  had  been  passed 
at  the  meeting  of  officers  and  crew,  on  the  deck  of  the 
Advance,  preparations  were  now  made  to  move  north- 
ward. The  only  way  in  which  the  brig  could  be  urged 
along,  was  by  the  process  called  "  warping,"  which  I 
have  described  in  a  former  chapter.  When  we  were 
happy  enough  to  discover  a  lead,  or  crevice  in  the  ice, 
the  meh  wore  sent  out  with  a  line  and  ice-anchor  to 
make  an  attachment,  forty  or  fifty  yards  ahead ;  then, 
by  winding  up  the  line  around  the  capstan,  the  brig 
was  dragged  along,  until  she  neared  the  point  where 
the  anchor  was  fixed ;  another  fastening  was  then  made 
farther  ahead,  and  so  the  work  proceeded.  This 
'*  warping"  is  one  of  the  most  toilsome  operations  that 


; 


89 


Godfrey's  narrative  op  the 


can  be  imagined,  and  so  alow  withal,  that  it  producer 
an  impression  on  the  minds  of  the  men  that  they  are 
working  to  little  or  no  purpose;  and  this  is  very 
discouraging.  The  height  of  the  ice  above  the  level 
of  the  water  was  from  seven  to  fifteen  feet ;  the  lead 
or  lane  of  open  water  was  often  so  narrow  that  the 
brig  could  scarcely  squeeze  through;  and  sometimes 
the  floating  ice-cakes  would  press  on  us  so  as  to  lift  the 
vessel  completely  out  of  the  water ;  then,  as  the  floes 
would  fall  back  again,  the  brig  would  sink  down  again 
to  her  proper  position.  The  hull  of  the  Advance  was 
very  much  racked  and  strained,  of  course,  by  such 
rough  treatment ;  and,  as  staunch  as  she  was,  she  could 
scarcely  have  held  together,  if  she  had  been  subjected 
for  any  length  of  time  to  such  severe  buffeting.  In 
less  than  twenty-four  hours  after  we  had  missed  the 
opportunity  which  had  offered  to  us  for  getting  out  of. 
the  Sound,  the  wind  changed,  and  the  floqs  set  m  to- 
ward the  shore,  closing  up  every  avenue  of  open  water, 
and  locking  us  up  in  that  dreary  locality,  from  which 
we  had  neglected  to  escape  at  the  right  time. 

It  now  became  necessary  to  cut  a  passage  for .  the 
brig,  in  order  to  enable  her  to  proceed  northward  in 
search  of  a  harbor.  All  hands  were  employed  in  saw- 
ing and  splitting  the  ice,  for  the  purpose  of  opening  a 
canal.  By  these  means  we  were  enabled  to  proceed  at 
the  rate  of  about  chrer'  quarters  of  a  mile  per  day ;  a 
degree  of  speed  which,  for  **  progressive  Yinkees," 
was  not  at  all  satisfactory.  In  this  state  of  things,  the 
commander  determined  to  send  out  a  party  to  mako 


■»¥ 


iilitiftii  ^IhaMffrnfliW^'^ftit-T  ' 


mm 


ORINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


83 


*> 


observations  and  to  deposit  provisions  at  different 
points,  for  the  use  of  such  exploring  parties  as  might 
afterward  be  sent  from  the  brig.  The  persons  selected 
for  this  duty  were  McGarry,  Bonsall,  Riley,  Whipple, 
Baker,  and  myself.  We  took  a  sled,  not  to  ride  in, 
observe,  but  as  a  means  of  conveyance  for  our  baggage 
and  provifflons,  we  ourselves  being  the  draught  animals. 
Our  provisions  consisted  of  salted  meat  and  ship-bis- 
cuit ;  our  baggage  comprised  some  wearing  apparel  and 
sleeping  fixtures,  such  as  buffalo  skins  and  blankets. 

The  temperature  at  this  time  was  30°  below  zero. 
In  order  to  keep  ourselves  warm,  we  traveled  at  a  pretty 
rapid  pace,  when  the  route  was  favorable ;  but  the  ice 
over  which  we  journeyed  was,  for  the  most  part,  very 
rough,  having  been  broken  up  repeatedly  by  the  tides 
and  the  collisions  of  the  floes ;  the  fragments,  after- 
ward becoming  cemented  together  by  the  frost,  formed 
"hummocks,"  or  hillocks  and  ridges,  varying  in  height 
from  two  to  ten  feet.  The  reader  will  perceive  that 
dragging  a  heavily-laden  sledge  over  such  an  uneven 
surface  was  no  child's  play.  In  some  cases  we 
were  compelled  to  unload  the  sledge  before  we  could 
get  it  over  these  obstructions ;  after  which,  it  was  ne- 
cessary for  us  to  reload. 

In  places  where  the  water  had  recently  been  open, 
new  ice  had  now  begun  to  form.  This  new  ice,  called 
"  bay  ice"  by  arctic  sailors,  was  not  yet  strong  enough 
to  bear  the  weight  of  our  sledge.  Of  this  circumstance 
we  were  not  aware  until,  while  attempting  to  cross  a 
lead  which  had  lately  been  frozen  over,  the  sledge  broke 


84 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OP  THE 


through,  and  all  its  lading,  including  our  bedding,  was 
completely  saturated.  We  now  had  an  opportunity  to 
test  the  merits  of  the  water-cure  practice,  by  sleeping 
in  wet  blankets;  and,  as  several  of  our  party  had 
touches  of  the  rheumatism,  the  occasion  was  particu- 
larly suitable  for  a  trial  of  the  hydropathic  experiment. 
At  night  we  found  the  buffalo-skin  bags,  which  had 
been  provided  for  us  to  sleep  in,  so  completely  frozen 
up,  that  it  was  impossible  to  effect  an  entrance  until 
we  had  beaten  the  skins  with  sticks,  to  break  up  the 
ice.  My  rheumatic  comrades  were  apprehensive  of 
some  very  unpleasant  consequences  from  sleeping  in 
these  frozen  sacks ;  but  they  comforted  themselves,  (as 
Jack  tars  often  do,  when  in  affliction,)  with  hard  swear- 
ing. This  exercise  soon  appeared  to  afford  a  genial 
warmth  to  their  wholo  system,  and  they  sunk  to  rest 
with  the  tranquillity  of  infant  innocence ;  having  un- 
burdened their  consciences  by  damning  all  arctic  ex- 
peditions, and  all  who  ever  took  a  part  in  contriving 
them. 

Our  beds  were  spread  on  the  naked  ice,  but  our  own 
vital  heat,  being  confined  in  the  sacks  which  enclosed 
us,  was  sufficient  to  keep  us  from  freezing.  Although 
our  sleeping  bags  were  generally  damp  when  we  fii'st 
got  into  them,  the  sensation  of  cold  lasted  but  a  short 
time ;  the  moisture  which  surrounded  us  was  converted 
into  a  sort  of  steam,  which  made  us  comfortable  during 
the  remainder  of  the  night,  although  the  external  air  was 
colder,  by  many  degrees,  than  it  ever  is  in  our  own 
country.     During  the  excursion  I  am  now  speaking  of, 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


85 


wc  passed  six  nights  in  the  manner  I  have  described, 
with  no  shelter  above  us  but  the  sky,  and  with  nothing 
to  protect  us  from  the  cold  but  our  buflfalo-skin  sleeping 
bags.  We  found  it  most  convenient  to  eat  our  provi- 
sions raw,  for  the  operation  of  cooking  was  tedious  and 
troublesome.  When  we  made  a  fire  for  culinary  pur- 
poses, we  burned  blubber  or  *<  slush ;"  the  last-named 
article  is  the  grease  which  has  been  boiled  out  of  meat, 
and  which  constitutes  a  large  part  of  the  fuel  used  for 
cooking  purposes  by  arctic  travelers.  The  Esquimaux 
do  their  cooking  over  large  lamps  filled  with  the  melted 
blubber  of  the  seal  or  walrus.  On  the  exploring  tour 
which  I  am  now  speaking  of,  we  were  obliged  to  cook 
in  the  open  air ;  and  this  is  no  easy  matter  when  the 
temperature  is  from  40°  to  50°  below  zero,  as  it  was 
all  the  time  we  were  absent  from  the  brig.  Sometimes, 
when  we  thought  our  coflfee-pot  tad  been  over  the  flame 
long  enough  to  boil,  we  examined  the  water  and  found 
It  frozen!  It  generally  required  two  or  three  hours  to 
make  coffee  or  to  prepare  a  little  broth.   * 

In  accordance  with  our  orders,  we  made  a  depot  of 
provisions  about  seventy-five  miles  from  the  place  where 
we  left  the  brig.  To  secure  the  articles  deposited  from 
the  bears,  we  placed  large  stones  around  and  over  them, 
and  afterward  poured  water  on  the  pile,  by  which 
means  the  stones  became  firmly  cemented  together,  as 
the  water  poured  on  th»m  froze  immediately.  We 
generally  traveled  on  the  frozen  surface  of  the  Sound, 
but  our  deposits  of  provisions  were  made  on  points  or 
projections  of  the  land.     About  twenty-five  miles  from 


i'l 


OODFRET'S  NABAATIYS  of  THl 

Cape  Frederick,  where  our  first  cacMy  or  deposit,  was 
made,  we  came  to  a  tongue  of  land,  where  we  made 
another.  From  this  point  we  still  proceeded  north- 
ward, crossing  a  great  glacier,  or  river  of  ice,  which 
extends  far  into  the  interior  of  Greenland. 

Thfi|^ce  rivers  are  among  the  greatest  curiosities 
in  thi  %tiirld.  They  have  a  regular  flow,  like  streams 
of  water,  though  their  motion  is  so  slow  that  they  do 
not  advance  more  than  eight  or  ten  inches  in  a  day. 
The  ice  of  the  glacier  is  of  a  mushy  consistency ;  its 
progressive  motion  is  owing  partly  to  the  inclination  of 
the  ground  over  which  it  passes  toward  the  coast,  and 
partly  to  the  pressure  from  hehind.  These  glaciers 
are  the  parents  of  the  icebergs,  as  I  have  mentioned  in 
another  part  of  this  work.  They  are  instrumental  in 
conveying  immense  quantities  of  ice  from  the  interior 
of  Greenland  to  the  sea;  and,  as  the  pJurk  seems  to  be 
inexhaustible,  it  is  probable  that  Greenland  itself  is 
little  else  than  a  mass  of  ice.  It  has  famished  mate- 
rial for  icebergs,  perhaps,  ever  since  the  world  was 
created,  and  will  continue  to  stock  the  market  with  the 
same  commodity  as  long  as  Nature's  laboratory  shall 
continue  in  operation.  • 

After  crossing  two  glaciers,  we  proceeded  about 
eighty  miles  further  north  before  we  arrived  at  another 
point  of  land  suitable  for  making  a  provision  depot. 
Here  we  stopped  for  some  hours  to  rest  ourselves  and 
indulge  in  the  rare  luxury  of  a  cooked  dinner.  While 
our  chocolate  was  coming  up  to  the  boiling  point,  I  re- 
quested McGarry,  Bonsall,  and  Biley  to  accompany 


^ 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


St 


me  to  the  summit  of  a  stationary  iceberg  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, which  was  about  one  hundred  feet  in  height, 
as  I  hoped,  from  that  elevation,  to  see  if  there  was  any 
land  ahead  where  another  deposit  of  provisions  might 
be  made. 

The  iceberg  which  we  used  as  our  observatory  on 
this  occasion,  was  one  of  those  which,  after  floating 
about  for  awhile,  run  i^ground  at  places  where  the  water 
is  too  shallow  to  keep  them  adrift.  This  sort  of  acci- 
dent often  happens  to  the  bergs,  and  when  they  become 
fixed  it  is  most  likely  that  they  remain  in  that  predica- 
ment for  ages,  or  forever.  Hence  many  immovable 
mountains  of  ice  are  seen  on  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
and  some  of  them  are  of  magnificent  dimensions.  To 
a  perso"?  who  is  unacquainted  with  the  composition  of 
icebergs,  it  may  appear  strange  that  any  man  should 
be  able  to  climb  to  the  top  of  one  a  hundred  feet  high. 
Those  who  have  experienced  the  difficulty  of  walking 
on  the  level  siirface  of  a  sleety  pavement,  might  con- 
sider the  ascent  or  descent  of  a  steep  ice-hill,  as  high 
as  a  church  steeple,  as  almost  an  impossibility.  This 
is  not  the  case,  however ;  for  I  have  often  found  it  as 
easy  to  walk  up  the  side  of  an  iceberg,  as  !;o  ascend  a 
grass-covered  acclivity.  A  few  words  will  suflice  to 
explain  this  matter :  the  reader  has  been  told  that  ice- 
bergs are  produced  by  accumulations  from  the  glaciers, 
or  rivers  of  ice,  which  disembogue  on  the  coasts  of 
Greenland  and  other  polar  regions.  The  ice  of  these 
glaciers  is  mixed  with  a  large  proportion  of  foreign 
matter,  such  as  earth,  stones,  rocks,  &c.,  and  all  these. 


y- 


:|' 


i 


! 


it 


GODFREY'S   NARRATIVE   OP  THE 


of  course,  become  component  parts  of  the  icebergs, 
imparting  to  them  a  degree  of  roughness  which  makes 
it  possible  to  walk  on  their  surfaces  with  very  little 
difficulty. 

When  we  had  reached  the  summit  of  the  berg  to 
which  reference  has  been  made  above,  we  were  enabled 
to  look  ahead  to  the  distance  of  fifty  or  sixty  miles ; 
and  this  view  satisfied  us  that  it  would  be  useless  to 
proceed  further  in  that  direction.  There  was  no  pro- 
jection of  land  within  that  whole  distance  ;  and  the  ice, 
over  which  we  would  have  to  travel,  was  an  endless 
succession  of  hills  and  hummocks,  which  for  sledge 
traveling  made  the  route  altogether  impracticable. 
Besides,  as  we  had  exhausted  the  stock*  of  provisions 
which  we  had  been  sent  out  to  deposit  at  different 
poiLts,  the  main  object  of  our  journey  was  at  an  end. 
We  might  have  gone  on  and  discovered  "  the  open  polar 
sea,"  which  Dr.  Kane  mentions  on  the  authority  of 
Mr.  Morton,  or  we  might  have  discovered  that  no  such 
sea  has  any  objective  existence ;  but  the  truth  is,  we 
were  heartily  tired  of  our  jaunt,  which  had  been,  from 
beginning  to  end,  a  freezing  purgatory,  that  was  so 
much  worse  than  the  fiery  one  we  have  heard  of, 
because  the  former  was  not  likely  to  introduce  us  to  a 
paradise.  Had  we  succeeded  in  rubbing  our  noses 
against  the  north  pole,  our  sta'3ment  of  the  fact  might 
have  been  doubted  or  denied  after  we  came  back  ;  for 
who  would  be  willing  to  give  a  party  of  common  s*  lors 
credit  for  an  achievement  which  many  distinguished  cap- 
tains had  attempted  without  any  approximation  to  sue- 


GBINNELL   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


89 


C6S3  ?  But  apart  from  these  cogont  reasons  for  turning 
back,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  we  had  not  provi- 
sions enough  to  justify  us  in  traveling  north- 
ward three  days  longer ;  and  we  had  ascertained  by 
our  look-out  from  the  top  of  the  iceberg  that  we  might 
travel  that  long  without  making  any  discovery  of  tho 
least  jmportance. 

Living  so  long  on  salt  ^^junk"  and  dry  biscuit  had 
made  us  all  qualmish  at  the  stomach ;  and  we  felt  such 
a  longing  after  fresh  meat  and  vegetables  that  I  believe 
we  should  have  made  up  our  minds  to  travel  further 
toward  the  pole  at  all  hazards,  had  there  been  any 
reason  to  suppose  that  we  should  find  a  butcher's  shop 
and  marke^arden  in  that  vicinity.  On  the  morning 
after  we  had  made  up  our  minds  to  return  to  the  brig, 
I  had  just  emerged  from  my  sleeping-bag  find  was  about 
to  draw  on  my  seal-skin  boots,  when  Bonsall,  who  had 
*^  turned  out"  earlier  than  the  others  to  prepare  a  dish  of 
coffee,  startled  us  all  with  the  exclamation,  ^*  A  fox !  a 
fox !"  at  the  same  moment  he  snatched  up  a  gun  and  fired 
at  the  animal,  slightly  wounding  him  in  the  flank.  My 
imagination  immediately  presented  the  delicious  odor 
of  fresh  meat ;  and  although  I  was  but  half  dressed, 
having  no  coat  on  my  back  and  no  boots  on  my  feet,  I 
started  in  pursuit  of  Reyna*d,  who  was  limping  away 
as  expeditiously  as  his  wound  would  permit.  I  was  to 
eager  in  the  chase  that  I  actually  forgot  that  I  was 
running  over  the  ice  in  my  stocking  feet.  After  a  race 
of  m(/re  than  a  mile  in  length,  I  overtook  the  wounded 
fox  and  caught  him  by  the  brush,  but  he  turned  his 
8* 


I, 


90 


Godfrey's  narrative  op  the 


head  and  bit  my  fingers  so  severely  that  I  was  obliged 
to  relinquish  my  grasp  of  his  tail ;  however,  it  was  no 
part  of  my  design  to  give  him  up,  as  E  was  already 
feasting,  in  imagination,  on  his  carcass.  I  kicked  him 
several  times  in  rapid  succession  with  my  unbooted  foot ; 
till,  at  last,  he  caught  the  toe  of  my  stocking  in  his 
mouth  and  held  on  with  invincible  resolution.  I  en- 
deavored to  disengage  my  foot,  but  the  fox  still  mp.in- 
tained  his  hold  and  finally  made  a  prize  of  my  stocking 
by  pulling  it  off,  leaving  my  naked  right  foot  in  imme- 
diate contact  with  the  ice.  I  now  became  desperate, 
resolving  to  put  an  end  to  the  contest  by  one  masterly 
movement.  Thus  heroically  determined,  I  threw  my- 
self on  the  body  of  my  antagonist,  claspea  him  in  my 
arms,  and  gave  him  a  squeeze  which  he  was  not  cunning 
enough  to  construe  as  an  evidence  of  my  affection ;  for 
while  I  lifted  him  up  and  pressed  him  to  my  b(»Bom,  he 
dropped  the  stocking  from  his  mouth  and  made  a  snap 
at  my  nose,  which  would  certainly  have  demolished  that 
feature  if  it  had  taken  effect.  But  I  had  the  advan- 
tage of  him  now,  and  soon  placed  him  on  my  shoulder 
in  a  position  which  prevented  him  from  using  his  teeth 
to  the  detriment  of  my  person.  With  as  much  joy  and 
triumph  as  Wellington  must  have  felt  after  the  battle 
of  Waterloo,  I  now  returned  to  my  companions,  who 
raised  a  shout  of  congratulation  at  my  approach.  There 
was  but  one  drawback  on  my  perfect  felicity :  the  toes 
of  my  naked  foot  were  severely  frost-bitten  ;  but  until 
my  comrades  called  my  attention  to  the  subject,  I 
really  was  not  aware  that  I  was  walking  barefoot  over 


GRINNELL   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


91 


the  polar  ice.  My  mental  excitement  caused  me  to 
overlook  my  bodily  suffering.  I  had  secured  a  prize 
which  made  all  of  our  party  inexpressibly  happy ;  and, 
a  matter  of  course,  I  was  the  happiest  one  of  the 


as 


party.  By  the  way,  I  fear  it  will  be  difficult  to  make 
the  reader  comprehend  how  the  capture  of  a  fox  could 
produce  bo  much  happiness.  No  man  can  sympathize 
with  our  pleasurable  feelings  on  this  occasion  unless 
he  has  experienced  that  indescribable  and  almost  insup- 
portable craving  after  a  change  of  diet  which  is  felt  by 
mariners  who  have  subsisted  for  many  months  on  those 
nauseous  sea-messes  which,  by  constant  repetition, 
become  as  displeasing  to  the  palate  as  they  are  preju- 
dicial to  health.  Nature,  in  her  own  defense,  produces 
a  strong  feeling  of  repugnance  to  those  salted  meats 
which  are  used  on  shipboard,  when  the  use  of  these 
becomes  deleterious,  by  inducing  that  horrid  disease 
called  scurvy,  by  which  vessels  which  make  long  voy- 
ages are  sometimes  almost  depopulated.- 

The  fox  we  had  caught  belopged  to  a  variety  which, 
I  believe,  is  peculiar  to  Northern  climes,  viz :  the 
blue  fox.  The  flesh  is  very  savory ;  at  least,  it  appeared 
so  to  us,  after  our  long  abstinence  from  fresh  meat. 
The  fur  of  this  variety  is  very  fine  and  valuable  ;  a 
single  skin  being  worth  at  least  twenty  dollars.  '-^' 


:  f  *;, 


-m- 


*1f 


'    T^ 


a^-,*  ^;  r 


-  >x 


■'■^£ii: 


A  . 


f 


i 


I  ' 


:j' 


93 


QODFRET^S  NARRATTVE  OF  THl 


CHAPTER  X 

WHAT  OUR  SLEDaS  PARTY  DISCOVERED — NO  OPEN  POLAR 
SEA — ALARMING  CONDITION  OF  THE  TRAVELERS — AN 
AUDACIOUS  FOX — THE  AUTHOR'S  POWER  OF  ENDUR- 
ANCE—SEVERAL  OF  HIS  COMPANIONS  IN  DESPAIR — 
THEY  ARE  IN  DANGER  OF  FREEZING  TO  DEATH — 
THEIR  INCLINATION  TO  GO  TO  SLEEP — SUFFERING 
MAKES  THEM  INSANE — PROVISIONS  EXHAUSTED — 
MIRACULOUS   PRESERVATION. 

On  this  journey,  the  particulars  of  which  were  nar- 
rated in  the  preceding  chapter,  we  must  haye  traveled 
nearly  two  hundred  miles  further  north  than  our  hrig 
ever  proceeded.  •  I  judge  that  we  went  beyond  the  8  2d 
degree  N.  latitude.  In  the  accomplishment  of  this 
task,  we  endured  hardships  which  I  have  scarcely  at- 
tempted to  describe,  because  no  description  could  afford 
any  idea  of  the  reality ;  and  yet  the  journey  was  without 
any  results  of  a  satisfactory  nature.  Say  that  wie 
traveled  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles,  and  saw 
fifty  miles  further  from  the  top  of  the  iceberg ;  this 
.0jm[  make  the  whole  extent  of  our  exploration  two 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles ;  and  in  the  whole  of 
that  space,  we  made  no  discovery  of  any  importance  to 
science  or  humanity.     We  saw  nothing,  in  fact,  but  a 


o 

r; 


h 


M 


-m. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


b^m    125 

■50  ^^*   n^H 


I 

UIILU   116 


FhotogFBphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WBT  MAIN  STRflT 

WIISTIR.N.Y.  UStO 

( 71* )  172-4503 


o 


•wi 
an 
m 
an 


OBINNBLL  EXPIiOBINO  BXPEDITION. 


96 


wilderness  of  ice  and  barren  rocks,  without  any  appear- 
ance of  vegetable  life ;  unless  an  occasional  patch  of 
moss,  attached  to  a  rock,  deserves  to  be  considered  as 
an  exception.  And  yet  I  think  we  must  have  seen 
beyond  that  point  which  Mr.  Sonntag,  in  his  map, 
makes  the  locality  of  the  Polar  Sea  dileovered  by  Mr. 
Morton.  I  believe  my  eyes  are  as  good  as  those  of 
Mr.  Morton,  and  I  honestly  confess  that  I  saw  nothing 
of  the  kind.  .  The  ice  became  more  compact  as  wo  ad 
vanced,  and  I  saw  nothing  to  make  me  suspect  that 
there  was  open  water  ahead. 

When  we  started  on  our  journey  back  to  the  brig, 
my  companions  were  almost  in  a  disabled  condition. 
Several  of  them  were  a£B[icted  with  snow-blindness,  all 
were  more  or  less  frost-bitten,  and  they  were  so  enfee- 
bled by  the  benumbing  influences  of  the  atmosphere, 
that  they  staggered  like  persons  intoxicated.  My  iron 
constitution,  (for  which  God  be  thanked,)  made  me 
almost  insensible  to  the  cold,  and  the  consequences 
thereof  affected  me  in  a  very  slight  degree.  During 
the  whole  time  of  my  sojournment  in  the  arctic  regions, 
I  never  experienced  any*  inconvenience  from  snow- 
blindness,  rheumatism,  catarrh,  or  any  other  disease 
incidental  to  the  climate.  And  yet  none  of  my  com- 
panions of  the  voyage  can  deny  that  I  was  more  ex- 
posed to  the  rude  breath  of  the  North,  than  any  other 
man  of  the  brig's  company ;  for  I  was  always  in  good 
health  and  ready  for  duty,  whereas  not  another  man 
on  board  was  prepared,  at  all  times,  for  active  service. 

The  fox  I  had  caught  was  almost  totally  OMsumed 


.1 

1.r 


'':  <'■ 


ii; 


f  1 


4 


s 


96 


qodfret's  nakrative  op  the 


V 


at  a  single  meal  by  my  comrades  and  myself.  Our 
provisions  bad  become  very  scarce ;  but  we  determined 
to  suffer  for  want  almost  to  tbe  last  extremity,  rather 
than  disturb  the  deposits  of  provisions  we  had  made 
on  our  outward  journey.  While  we  were  making  pre- 
parations to  return,  all  my  comrades,  except  Whipple, 
appeared  to  be  much  dispirited.  The  arctic  breezes, 
operating  like  the  "  chill  penury,"  which  the  poet  Gray 
speaks  of,  seemed  to  have  repressed  their  noble  rage, 
and  frozen  the  genial  current  of  their  souls;  for, 
Whipple  excepted,  they  had  no  longer  vital  energy 
enough  to  comfort  and  sustain  themselves  by  hard 
swearing.  Whipple,  whose  temper  was  all  pepper  and 
mustard,  would  occasionally  pause  in  his  labor,  and 
thrashing  his  arm  across  his  breast  to  restore  warmth 
and  animation  to  his  system,  would  pour  forth  a  torrent 
of  maledictions,  with  so  many  allusions  to  the  fiery  lake 
and  other  Tartarean  scenery,  that  I  could  almost 
imagine  at  such  times  that  we  had  suddenly  been  trans- 
ported to  a  much  warmer  climate.  These  outbursts 
evidently  revived  the  drooping  spirits  of  our  whole 
party. 

On  the  second  day  after  we  began  to  retrace  our 
steps,  a  blue  fox  had  the  audacity  to  join  our  company. 
He  came  trotting  along  by  the  side  of  the  sledge  with 
perfect  composure ;  but  although  he  was  evidently  un- 
acquainted with  man,  his  tameness  was  not  shocking 
to  me.  On  the  contrary,  I  was  delighted  with  his 
familiar  and  confiding  disposition,  and  it  was  really 
with  great  reluctance  that  I  prepared  to  give  him  an 


^  I 


ORINNELL  EXPLORING  XXPEDITION. 


91 


our 


illustration  of  human  treachery  and  barbarity,  by  pre- 
senting my  rifle,  and  planting  a  bullet  in  his-  unsuspi- 
cious breast.  The  flesh  of  this  victim  of  misplaced 
confidence  afforded  us  another  grateful  repast,  and 
contributed,  in  a  high  degree^  to  invigorate  and  re- 
animate our  poor  fellows,  who  could  scarcely  be  per- 
suaded to  continue  their  march.  Several  of  the  party 
were  ready,  every  moment,  to  throw  themselves  on  the 
ice  and  take  their  last  sleep  in  life,  preliminary  to  that 
sleep  "  which  knows  no  waking."  The  effect  of  intense 
cold  is  sometimes  to  make  men  perfectly  reckless  of  all 
consequences,  when  their  half  congealed  blood  induces 
that  lethargic  feeling  which,  if  not  resisted,  is  sure  to 
be  fatal.  When  several  persons  are  traveling  together 
in  the  polar  regions,  it  often  requires  the  constant  ex- 
ertions of  some  of  the  party  to  keep  others  from  falling 
into  that  sleep  which  is  more  than  *'the  image  of 
death" — for  it  is  death  itself! 

Whipple  and  I,  being  more  alive  than  the  rest  of  our 
party,  were  obliged  to  undertake  the  responsible  duty 
of  keeping  the  others  in  motion ;  and,  in  order  to  '*  stir 
them  up,"  we  were  obliged  to  administer  some  pretty 
sound  cuffs  and  many  a  hard  shake,  which  barely  suf- 
ficed, however,  to  make  them  move  on  mechanically, 
like  people  who  had  lost  all  power  of  volition.  In  ad- 
dition to  all  the  trouble  of  taking  care  of  our  eomrades, 
Whipple  and  I  were  compelled  to  draw  the  sledge,  and 
to  perform  all  other  labors  which  had  hitherto  been 
distributed  among  the  whole  party.  As  soon  as  we 
came  to  a  convenient  place,  we  made  an  excavation  in 
9 


<>   '1 


t. 


9a 


OODFBET'S  NAEBATIVB  Of  THl 


a  deep  snow  drift,  to  afford  our  company  some  shelter 
from  the  wind,  which  was  now  hlowing  with  a  keenness 
that  seemed  to  cut  like  a  razor.  We  then  put  our  sick 
comrades  in  their  sleeping  sacks,  to  make  them  as 
comfortahle  as  possible,  and  enable  them  to  enjoy  a  re- 
freshing nap  without  the  risk  of  freezing;  and,  after 
thus  disposing  of  them  for  the  present,  we  proceeded 
to  kindle  a  fire  of  pork-fat  and  blubber,  in  order  to 
prepare  a  warm  supper  for  our  invalids  by  the  time 
they  should  wake  up.  We  cut  up  the  fox  which  I  had 
shot  in  the  morning,  and  which  by  this  time  was  frozen, 
and  as  stiff  and  hard  as  a  piece  of  wood.  In  about 
three  hours  we  succeeded  in  making  a  fine  kettle  of 
fox-broth,  in  which  I  crumbled  a  suitable  quantity  of 
ship  biscuit,  and  then  awakened  my  comrades  and  called 
them  to  partake  of  the  mess.  The  refreshing  slumber 
they  had  enjoyed,  and  the  good  warm  supper,  made  a 
strange  revulsion  in  their  feelings,  and  a  corresponding 
change  in  their  behavior.  They  had  completely  re- 
covered from  their  late  torpor,  and  now  became  excited 
to  a  degree  whicli  resembled  intoxication  or  insanity. 
They  sang  scraps  of  old  songs,  uttered  wild  exclama- 
tions, and  gesticulated  violently ;  but  as  their  excite- 
ment appeared  to  be  pleasurable,  we  made  no  attempt 
to  check  it.  However,  there  was  something  haggard 
and  ghastly  in  their  mirth  which  shocked  me.  It  was 
the  first  time  that  I  had  ever  seen  exposure  to  extreme 
cold  operate  in  this  way ;  but,  on  many  subsequent  oc- 
casions, I  saw  temporary  madness  induced  by  this  cause. 
The  effect  seems  to  proceed  from  a  strong  effort  of  na- 


,.  ■-' 


■m 


■■s>^ 


ORINNELL  EXPLOBINO  EXPEDITION. 


m 


ture  to  produce  a  reaction  in  the  physical  system  when 
the  vital  energies  thereof  have  heen  nearly  prostrated. 
During  the  remainder  of  our  journey,  two-thirds  of  the 
party  were  in  a  lunatic  condition;  but  their  mental 
aberration  was,  no  doubt,  a  blessing  in  disguise,  as  it 
made  them  more  insensible  of  suffering ;  and  this  un- 
natural excitement  was,  perhaps,  the  only  thing  which 
could  have  enabled  them  to  hold  out  until  we  reached 
the  brig. 

On  the  next  evening  we  arrived  at  a  spot  where  we 
found  a  considerable  quantity  of  dried  moss,  which  was 
very  useful  to  us  as  fuel,  as  our  slush  and  blubber  had 
become  rather  scarce.  Our  bread  (ship  biscuit)  was 
likewise  nearly  exhausted,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to 
live  chiefly  on  salt  pork  and  pemmican.  Occasionally, 
as  we  traveled  onward,  we  came  to  places  where  the 
rocks  afforded  a  sort  of  vegetable  substance,  a  species 
of  lichen,  which  we  collected  and  boiled  as  a  substitute 
for  cabbage  or  greens.  The  taste  of  this  article  was 
too  much  like  senna  to  be  palatable. 

As  we  had  nearly  used  up  all  our  provisions,  the 
sled  was  comparatively  light,  a  circumstance  which  af- 
forded us  an  opportunity  to  give  our  feeble  comrades 
an  occasional  ride— K>ne  at  a  time.  The  man  who  rode 
was  placed  in  a  sleeping-bag,  to  prevent  him  from 
freezing;  an  accident  which,  but  for  such  precaution, 
would  be  very  likely  to  happen,  when  the  limbs  of  the 
individual  were  no  longer  in  active  use.  For  several 
days  after  we  started  on  our  return  trip,  I  thought  it 
impossible  to  get  all  our  people  back  to  the  brig  alive. 


.f»f^-- 


J 


:l 


100 


V  GODFREY'S   NARRATIVE   OP   TTIB 


But,  thanks  to  God,  we  succeeded  in  doing  so  at  last. 
We  had  been  absent  twenty-seven  days.  During  the 
whole  of  that  time  the  thermometer  was  from  30°  to 
40°  below  zero ;  our  breath  froze  and  formed  icicles  on 
our  beards  and  mustaches ;  the  perspiration  from  our 
bodies  produced  a  moisture  in  our  sleeping-bags  which 
became  ice  as  soon  as  we  left  them,  and  when  we  were 
aoout  to  **  turn  in"  for  the  night  we  were  obliged  to 
encase  ourselves  in  these  icy  envelopes.  For  nearly  a 
whole  month  we  never  warmed  ourselves  at  a  fire,  as 
the  fires  we  could  make  were  scarcely  large  enough  to 
boil  our  cofiee,  and  the  heat  afforded  by  them  could  not 
be  felt  at  the  distance  of  one  foot.  Had  the  experiment 
not  been  tried,  it  would  be  hard  to  believe  that  apy 
human  creature  could  survive  so  much  exposure  to 
cold ;  and  when  we  consider  how  often  persons  are 
frozen  to  death  in  our  own  country,  where  the  tempera- 
ture is  seldom  below  zero,  it  is  really  a  very  surprising 
matter  that  arctic  sailors  should  exist  for  weeks  to- 
gether constantly  exposed  to  an  atmosphere  from  40° 
to  50°  colder  than  it  ever  is  in  the  United  States. 
Had  we  possessed  fifty  lives  each,  we  endured  enough, 
on  this  journey,  to  destroy  them  all,  and  I  am  com* 
polled  to  regard  our  preservation  as  a  miracle. 


0' 


r 


•.i'^a..  ^Zr-.<;-« 


GKINNKLL  SXPLOaiNQ  IXBBDITION. 


101 


fifiit' 


>f  .      ■     ■*«;.,:-.)■ 


CHAPTER    XI.  ' 

OUR  SLBDGB  PARTT  RBTURN  TO  THE  BRIG — ^WB  FIND 
THE  ADVANCE  IN  HER  WINTER  HARBOR — PREPARA- 
TIONS FOR  THE  DARE  SEASON— STRANGE  FANOT  OF 
THE  DOGS — THEIR  TROUBLESOME  BEHAVIOR — WHT 
THET  LIKE  HUMAN  SOCIETY — THE  AUTHOR'S  OBJEC- 
TIONS TO  DOGS  AS  DRAUGHT  ANIMALS — ^ANOTHER 
SLEDGE  JOURNET — ^HORRORS  OF  THE  ARCTIC  WINTER — 
DR.  KANE'S  WARLIKE  DEMONSTRATION  AGAINST  THE 
RATS. 


OoNTRART  to  all  reasonable  expectation,  we  got  back 
to  the  brig  without  the  loss  of  a  single  man,  though 
several  of  our  party  were  very  ill  for  some  days  after- 
ward. During  our  absence  the  brig  had  been  placed 
in  her*  winter  harbor,  about  a  mile  from  the  place 
where  we  had  left  her.  The  spot  was  well  chosen, 
being  a  small  bay,  well  protected  on  the  seaward  sidi) 
by  lofty  rocks,  and  open  to  the  south  and  east  for  the 
reception  of  the  sunshine,  when  we  should  happen  to 
have  any.  The  bay  was  just  about  large  enough,  ex- 
clusive of  the  space  occupied  by  three  small  islands,  to 
afford  us  commodious  anchorage.  The  soundings  be- 
tween thfl  islands,  showed  about  seven  fathoms.  In 
9* 


f 


'Hi' 


102 


qodibit's  nabhativk  or  thi 


short,  it  was  a  snlig  resting-place  for  the  Advance  ;  and 
so  it  ought  to  have  been,  considering  the  length  of  time 
she  was  destined  to  occupy  it — for,  if  the  Esquimaux 
have  not  pulled  her  to  pieces,  she  is  there  yet. 

While  we  were  away,  our  comrades  had  been  making 
preparations  for  passing  the  winter  in  this  gloomy  re- 
treat. They  had  built  an  observatory  and  a  provision- 
house  on  one  of  the  little  rocky  islands  near  the  brig. 
They  had  also  made  some  improvements  in  the  internal 
arrangements  of  the  brig,  preparatory  for  the  cold 
weather,  by  building  an  additional  room  between  decks, 
where  the  cooking-stove  was  put  up  and  a  number  of 
bunks  were  fixed  for  the  men  to  sleep  on.  At  the  time 
of  our  return,  Mr.  Ohlsen,  the  carpenter,  assisted  by 
Mr.  Petersen,  was  employed  in  erecting  a  house  on  the 
deck  of  the  brig ;  and  this  afterward  proved  to  be  a 
very  excellent  contrivance,  tending  to  promote  the 
health  and  comfort  of  our  people.  In  order  to  make 
more  room  on  board  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
ofiicers  and  crew,  the  provisions  were  all  removed  to 
the  store-house  which  had  been  built  on  a  neighboring 
rocky  islet,  to  which  Dr.  Kane  had  given  the  name  of 
Butler  Island. 

On  this  island,  besides  our  other  building  improve- 
ments, the  men  had  built  a  dog-kennel,  large  enough 
to  aftbrd  comfortable  lodgings  for  all  our  canine  family ; 
but  the  perverse  brutes  refused  to  occupy  the  habita- 
tion which  had  been  provided  for  them  with  so  much 
trouble.  They  broke  out  of  their  kennel  and  couched 
themselves   on   the  snow  near  the  brig,  where  their 


GaiNNELL  XXPLOaiNO  EJ'^XDITION. 


103 


howling  every  night  was  a  terrible  annoyance  to  some 
of  our  men,  who  entertained  the  superstitious  notion 
that  such  nocturnal  music  is  ominous  of  ill-luck.  The 
preference  shown  by  the  Esquimaux  dogs  for  sleeping 
on  the  snow  near  the  brig,  ra^er  than  in  the  hut  on 
the  island,  was  considered  by  Dr.  Kane  as  a  somewhat 
affecting  incident,  proving  that  these  quadrupeds  have 
an  instinctive  attachment  to  human  society.  I  regarded 
the  circumstance  in  a  different  light :  these  dogs  had 
been  accustomed,  from  their  early  puppy  hood,  to  sleep 
on  the  snow  near  the  huts  of  their  Esquimaux  masters, 
and  as  this  mode  of  lodging  had  become  habitual  to 
them,  they  could  not  be  satisfied  with  any  other.  I 
consider  it  very  derogatory  to  the  canine  character,  to 
suppose  that  dogs  have  any  natural  inclination  for 
human  society.  In  his  wild  state,  the  dog  is  quite  free 
from  any  weakness  of  that  kind,  and  it  requires  a  great 
deal  of  discipline  or  training  to  make  him  endure  the 
company  of  our  species.  The  Esquimaux  dogs  are  only 
in  a  half-reclaimed  condition,  and  I  have  much  reason 
to  believe  that  they  would  cut  the  acquaintance  of 
mankind  altogether,  if  they  could  maintain  themselves 
without  human  assistance.  While  we  retained  some 
of  them  in  our  service,  they  frequently  ran  away,  two 
or  three  at  a  time,  and  remained  abroad  until  they  were 
nearly  starved,  Mrhen  they  would  come  back  with  evi- 
dent reluctance  and  a  sullenness  of  deportment,  which 
seemed  to  say,  *^  We  do  not  like  your  company,  you 
two-legged  rascals,  but  necessity  compels  us  to  associate 
with  you  a  little  while  longer." 


*if  ^. 


104 


QODriUBT'S  NABRATIVB  0?  THE 


There  was  not  a  great  deal  of  love  lost,  (as  the  saying 
is,)  between  our  men  and  the  dogs.  Among  our  orew  they 
were  very  unpopular,  and  although  their  services  were 
Supposed  to  be  indispensable,  the  animals  oould  scarcely 
be  tolerated,  as  they  made  themselves  as  troublesome 
as  possible  and  their  consumption  of  food  was  enormous. 
On  our  sledge  journeys  we  were  often  obliged  to  half 
starve  ourselves  in  order  to  afford  our  dogs  the  neces- 
sary supply  of  provisions,  without  which  they  would  be 
unable  to  perform  their  work.  It  is  a  most  unfor- 
tunate circumstance  of  arctic  travel,  that  dog- 
sledging  is  the  only  practicable  means  of  conveyance 
or  transportation  in  the  polar  regions.  This  circum- 
stance necessarily  makes  all  journeys  by  land  or  over 
the  ice  of  brief  duration  ;  as  dogs  cannot  travel  many 
days  in  succession  without  '*  breaking  down ;"  and  it  is 
impossible  for  an  exploring  party  to  carry  enough  pro- 
visionft  to  maintain  these  voracious  brutes  through  a 
very  long  journey.  It  is  true  that  there  is  a  possibility 
of  obtaining,  occasionally,  fresh  supplies  of  animal  food 
on  the  way  ;  but  this  resource  is  too  precarious  to  justify 
any  arctic  traveler  in  placing  much  dependence  thereon. 
The  principal  animals  whose  flesh  could  be  made  useful 
in  these  cases  are  the  bear,  walrus,  seal,  and  blue  fox. 
I  have  found  by  experience  that  it  is  possible  to  travel 
many  miles  in  Greenland,  and  on  the  frozen  waters  con- 
tiguous to  that  region,  without  seeing  one  of  the  crea- 
tures mentioned  above,  and  even  when  they  are  seen  it 
may  require  some  trouble  to  secure  their  spoils.  During 
the  whole  time  of  our  stay  in  the  arctic  regions,  (more 


# 


GRINNELL  EXPIiORINO  EXPET^ITION. 


105 


thnn  two  years),  we  killed  but  three  or  four  boars,  one 
wulrus,  and  about  half  a  dozen  seals,  although  some  of 
our  people  were  frequently  engaged  in  hunting.  The 
foxes  are  taken  chiefly  in  traps,  but  a  party  traveling 
in  sledges  for  the  purpose  of  making  explorations,  would 
find  the  trapping  of  foxes  a  very  dilatory  and  uncertain 
process,  and  one  on  which  it  would  be  foolish  to  depend 
for  a  supply  of  animal  food.  Owing  to  the  deficient 
supply  of  such  food  which  the  polar  regions  afi'ord, 
(especially  such  parts  of  those  regions  as  require  explo- 
ration), traveling  in  dog-sledges  is  attended  with  very 
great  difficulties.  I  see  no  reason  why  rein-deer  should 
not  be  used  by  arctic  travelers  for  draught  animals, 
iniStead  of  dogs.  They  could  be  much  more  easily  main- 
tained, as  they  require  but  little  food ;  and  in  a  case  of 
necessity,  they  could  subsist  on  the  lichen  which  grows 
on  the  rocks  in  every  part  of  Greenland.  Besides,  as 
I  think,  they  would  be  found  more  serviceable  than 
dogs ;  being  equal  in  speed  to  the  latter  and  having 
much  greater  power  of  endurance. 

It  was  about  the  middle  of  September  when  the  arctic 
winter  set  in ;  the  sun  did  not  quite  disappear,  however, 
until  the  10th  of  October.  In  the  latter  part  of  Sep- 
tember, Dr.  Kane,  Dr.  Hayes,  and  Mr.  Sonntag  made 
an  excursion  to  Cape  Frederick,  where  the  traveling 
party  to  which  I  belonged  had  made  the  first  deposit 
of  provisions.  The  object  of  Dr.  Kane  and  his  compan- 
ions in  visiting  this  spot  was  to  ascertain  the  tempera- 
ture and  to  make  other  scientific  observations.  They 
traveled  in  a  dog-sledge,  and  of  course  were  enabled  to 


i 


m 


106 


GODFREY'S  NABRATIVE  OV  THB 


^ 


proceed  more  expeditiously  than  our  party,  which  went 
on  foot,  and  dragged  a  sledge  heavily  laden  with  provi- 
sions after  them.  But  the  Doctor's  party  had  the  ill- 
luck  to  encounter  high  winds  and  a  heavy  snow  storm. 
The  wind  made  them  feel  the  cold  more  severely,  and 
the  snow  storm  caused  them  to  lose  their  way.  They 
returned  to  the  hrig,  at  last,  in  a  very  pitiable  condi- 
tion, every  one  of  them  being  more  or  less  afflicted 
with  snow  blindness ;  and,  but  for  the  sagacity  of  the 
dogs  in  retracing  their  route,  the  whole  party  might 
have  perished.     This  party  was  absent  two  days. 

When  the  sun  was  about  to  make  his  final  adieu  for 
the  season,  the  Commander  sent  out  Bonsall  and  Blake 
with  directions  to  proceed  southward,  to  a  place  on'  the 
coast  where  we  had  left  a  boat  and  some  tools.  They 
were  required  to  see  if  these  articles  were  safe,  as  there 
was  some  likelihood  that  the  wandering  Esquimaux  had 
overhauled  them.  The  distance  was  about  thirty-five 
miles,  and  the  two  men  commenced  their  journey  thither 
in  a  dog-sledge.  They  met  with  great  difficulties  on 
their  way,  as  the  road  ove>*  the  ice  was  so  rough,  and 
unmanageable  that  they  were  unable  to  proceed  more 
than  eight  or  ten  miles  per  day.  They  were  likewise 
overtaken  by  the  darkness  when  they  were  about  twenty 
miles  from  the  brig ;  and  to  put  the  climax  to  their 
misfortunes,  their  sled  broke  down  before  they  had 
reached  their  place  of  destination.  They  came  back 
with  the  dogs,  leaving  their  broken  sledge  on  the  ice ; 
and  when  they  arrived  at  the  brig  they  were  speechless 
-  and  scarcely  alive.  Hans,  (Dr.  Kane's  pet  Esquimaux,) 


«> 


101 
OB«N«*  «»«'"°'«  ^"^'"'"' 

.  .ft.,  tlie  broVen  sledge,  vrhioVi 

anamipple^««««f»^'«!f;jtaving  taken,  dog     .     • 
they  luckily  found  and  brought  back,  hav    g 

team  ^itb  tbea  for  that  purpose.  ^^ 

espeeted  to  see  no  »»"  f^^^";™  3,,,  ^t  ice,  sno^. 
Oatside  of  our  vessel  nothing  ^»  «  ^^  ^     ^^^ 

»nd  naked  rooks ;  unless  je  t«^«'^  °  ^^J„„t ,  thrill 

»"  ^^''"^^  '  '^:;:i;°l:l''  l  ;  appearance, 
of  horror,  so  WP^^  °"    disappearance  of  the  sun, 
■  /-She  arctic  heavens,  after  the  *«»PP  ^^^^j^g 

i:  Isemble  a  vast  arch  or  dome  0  gran^, »     ^^  . 

;  ,|he  beholder  to  i-f «  ^'^  V^  one  of  those 
;  Roundest  caves  of  ^^^^^^^^^^^  (..wording  to  the 
«      central  caverns  of  the  ear  ^^^^^^^^  ^^„ 

theory  of  Capt»«  gimmes,)  na  ^.^^^^ 

the  Pole.  When  the  moon  »  ^^f'^^    J^^^  dome 

.    ,Hh  a  f-^'-'-'^'^rrTwlA  e  aTov  Uke  any  thing 
of  aGermanchurchUnedw^rt.^-^.^^  the  etherial  >ir- 

,       -v    tV,A  pffecu  produced  by 

^''-■■^"'ttin--^^^^^^ 

polar  scenery  on  thosj  ^  ^^  ^^^  ^^^  ,,  be  ■ 

months  together.    The  very  ^.^^^^^^ 

edfocated  by  the  "PP-^^'^/^/'^inding  objects, 

the    changeless   ^PP^"'" "'   "      4  „,ture  can  le  dis- 
.    amongwhichnosignsofj^>ma^ed»         ^^g^^,^ 


i 


108 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


,  "opea  that  0^2^"::  M  r  r "-;  ^*^^'^-  ^ 

some  kind  of  rir««,o.-  disposed  to  get  ud 

"  Cap.,:  i^;rirr8r:r.'''  °"  -«"^ 

I  mher  suspect  that  JalTfK'"^"*'^''^-    «"' 
"crnpulous  about  these  Z^  ?  '"  """'oientious; 

Bt»nces  had  depri.el  le        t  1^     ^^  "''- 
•dvantage,  of  a  religious  f,     -^    t '"''°"™'  "^  *'. 
enough  to  become  all  I       '^'  '  ""  '*'"'"'-'«* 

-,>  for  the  di'rs  :„:°t;;r"™''''  ^  • '-» 

•"acted  u,y  fece  ocoasicl^J^f  "T:''""-    ' 
treated  the  poo.  ^ellows  to  a  ^^1     ^"°"'  ''"'''  "»<» 
•  lecture  to  u,atch,  whil  .1       ^      '""'  '""Ss,  and 
«ood,  although  Jact  fSII  ,?  '"  ''^"'  ^°- 
during  the  performance.     oZotl'  "  ''"'"  "•«' 
frozen  once,  while  I  was  sW       ^ '"" ''"""''"''"y 
felody  to  a  select  audiZ  onT/°  T  ™"«  "«S™ 
Notwithstanding  our  IT   \^       "^'"^ 

-cakes,  wet^fnot  ;rSf  r:'"'"  "■"""«  "■» 

had  employments  enonSntl  'T"''  '"'  ^ 
»ind  (which  has  been  «ll  '""*'  '»  W  the 

.^0.  grind.-ng  il^a^f  ^^^J"  »  »ai-stone, 

»  out-door  work,  I  app  Jd  mysX  2.  T'  r"'*' 
wgand  boot-making  mv  nr-w,  "'"''^  *«''»'-  • 

"tins  of  seals  and  L7  7tT  "'"•""'  ■"">«  '"• 
fa  -^^  ''■"  '™e  there  was  a 


"i^ 


GBINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


109 


good  deal  of  sickness  on  board.  Dr.  Kane  himself 
was  severely  afflicted  with  rheumatism.  Whipple  had 
agonizing  pains  in  the  back.  tStevenson  and  several 
others  were  down  with  the  scurvy.  Schubert,  the 
French  cook,  was  seldom  well  enough  to  attend  to  his 
duty,  and  it  was  my  fate  to  be  everybody's  substitute. 
I  was  the  hunter,  dog-trainer,  boot  and  breeches-maker, 
journeyman  carpenter,  Ethiopian  serenader,  and  French 
cook,  pro  tern.,  besides  executing  a  dozen  other  offices 
and  commissions  which  could  not.  have  been  required 
of  me,  according  to  the  letter  of  my  contract.  But,  if 
I  happened  to  grumble  a  little,  (which  I  seldom  did, 
however,)  the  prompt  answer  was,  "You  ought  to  be 
thankful,  William,  that  you  have  health  and  strength 
sufficient  for  the  performance  of  these  tasks.  Consider 
how  much  better  your  condition  is  than  that  of  your 
sick  comrades." 

These  words  of  reproof  and  consolation  <were  always 
effective,  and  I  became  sensible  that  any  complai||  en 
my  part  was  impious  and  ungrateful.  ■.^, 

As  the  winter  wore  away,  Ohlsen  (the  carpenter)  and 
Petersen  began  to  fit  up  sleds  for  the  purpose  of  mak- 
ing journeys  of  exploration  in  the  spring.  It  was  Dr. 
Kane's  intention  to  send  an  exploring  party  over  land 
to  the  western  coast  of  Greenland ;  or,  at  least,  to  test 
the  practicability  of  such  an  enterprise.  The  dis- 
tance to  be  traveled  would  probably  be  between  six 
hundred  and  eight  hundred  miles.  The  interior  of 
Greenland  is  supposed  to  be  little  else  than  a  mass  of 
ice,  with  scarcely  any  animal  or  vegetable  protiuctions. 
10 


110 


oodfret's  narrative  of  thb 


11    \ 


\\ 


In  view  of  these  circumstances,  the  proposed  journey 
offered  nothing  very  inviting  to  the  most  adventurous 
spirits ;  for  travelers  generally  go  in  pursuit  of  novelty^ 
which  no  one  could  expect  to  find  in  a  region  of  un- 
varying ice. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  speak  of  our  life  on  board  of  the 
brig  during  the  winter.  Enough  has  been  said  to  con- 
vince the  reader  that  such  a  life  is  little  better  than  a 
living  death.  We  were  entombed  in  ice,  and  we  were 
so  much  worse  off  than  those  who  are  really  dead,  that 
we  were  sensible  of  our  wretched  situation,  and  alive 
to  the  keenest  suffering. 

The  only  stirring  incident  which  comes  to  my  re- 
membrance as  an  occurrence  of  the  dark  season,  was 
an  attempt  made  by  Dr.  Kane  to  exterminate  the  rats 
with  which  the  brig  was  much  infested.  We  had  shipped 
a  good  many  of  these  animals  at  the  different  ports 
where  we  had  stopped,  and  they  had  fully  carried  out 
in  practice  the  scriptural  injunction,  '*  Increase  and 
multiply."  Our  commander  had  a  fancy  for  doing 
things  in  the  most  scientific  manner ;  he  therefore  de- 
termined to  destroy  all  the  rats,  *'at  one^/ell  swoop," 
by  dosing  them  with  carbonic  acid  gas.  ^e  were  all 
turned  out  of  our  comfortable  quarters  between  decks 
to  make  room  for  this  interesting  experiment,  which 
was  to  proclaim  the  triumph  of  human  knowledge  over 
brutal  instinct.  The  hatches  were  closed,  a  numbly  of 
furnaces  and  other  vessels  containing  ignited  chansoal 
were  placed  in  the  interior  of  the  brig,  and  all  the 
cracks  and  crevices  having  been  closely  stopped,  the 


# 


ORINNELL  EXPLORINQ    EXPEDITION. 


Ill 


tt 


rats  were  abandoned  to  their  fate.  The  fumigation  was 
continued  for  thirty-six  hours  without  intermission,  and 
so  effectually  was  the  gas  applied  that  no  less  than 
fourteen  full-sized  rats  were  done  to  death;  and  the 
French  cook,  Monsieur  Schubert,  was  very  near  coming 
to  the  same  conclusion.  In  the  warmth  of  his  profes- 
sional zeal,  he  went  below  to  dress  a  slice  of  ham  for 
the  Captain's  dinner,  forgetful  of  the  orders  which  had 
been  issued  for  all  hands  to  keep  out  of  the  gaseous 
atmosphere  between  decks.  Schubert  was  overpowered 
by  the  unwholesome  vapor,  and  tell  into  convulsions.' 
Morton,  the  steward,  endeavored  to  haul  him  up  the ' 
ladder  but  failed  in  the  attempt,  and  fell  down  likewise. 
Dr.  Kane  hastened  to  the  assistance  of  the  cook  and 
steward,  and  met  with  the  same  ill  fortune;  and  all 
three  of  them  might  have  perished  but  for  the  strenuous 
exertions  of  the  whole  brig's  company  to  save  them. 
Moreover,  the  brig  took  fire  from  one  of  the  furnaces 
in  which  charcoal  was  burned  in  order  to  suffocate  the 
rats ;  and  so  the  Doctor's  experiment  proved  almost  as 
disastrous  as  that  of  the  Dutch  farmer  of  Pennsylvania, 
who  set  fire  to  hiB  barn  for  the  purpose  of  exterminating 
the  vermin  which  infested  that  building.  Luckily  the 
fire  on  board  of  our  vessel  was  extinguished  before 
much  damage  was  done ;  but  the  Doctor  (who  for  seve- 
ral duys  after  felt  the  effects  of  the  gas  which  he  had 
inhaled),  was  not  sufficiently  satisfied  with  the  result  of 
his  charcoal  experiment  to  give  it  a  second  trial  _ 


'*'^^.^^ 


# 


li 


112 


Godfrey's  narrative  or  tiiv 


,;-:^- 


'     -i"^    ,V 


CHAPTER    XII. 

TERMINATION  OF  THE  DARK  SEASON — GRAND  JUBILEE — 
AN  EXPLORING  PARTY — INAUSPICIOUS  BEGINNING  OP 
THE  JOURNEY — OUR  TRAVELING  COSTUME — GLOOMY 
ANTICIPATIONS  OV  THE  TRAVELERS — THE  AUTHOR'S 
PET    FOX — HIS     GREAT    ACHIEVEMENTS    AMONG     THE 

.  RATS — A  SUGGESTION  FOR  SPORTING  GENTLEMEN — 
SINGULAR  RAT  TRAP — SAD  INTELLIGENCE  FROM  THE 
EXPLORING   PARTY. 

We  had  a  glimpse  of  the  returning  sun  about  the 
latter  part  of  February.  None  but  those  who  know  by 
experience  what  it  is  to  see  no  daylight  for  several 
months,  can  appreciate  our  feelings  of  joy  and  exulta- 
tion when  the  first  rays  of  the  long-absent  luminary 
were  seen  on  the  mountain  tops.  On  that  occasion, 
we  all  became  idolaters — sun-worshipers — hailing  the 
advent  of  old  ^1  with  as  much  rapturous  enthusiasm  as 
was  ever  manifested  by  his  Eastern  devotees. 

A  few  days  after  the  joyful  event  just  mentioned,  we 
began  to  make  active  preparations  for  carrying  out 
Dr.  Kane's  stupendous  project  of  sending  an  exploring 
party  across  the  whqle  breadth  of  Greenland  to  the 
wlllern  coast.  The  persons  detailed  for  this  service 
were  Brooks,  (who  officiated  as  leader  of  the  party,) 


m 


ORINNELL  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


113 


Sonntag,  Wilson,  Baker,  Schubert,  and  Hickey.  These 
were  to  start  on  the  expedition,  dragging  their  provi- 
sions and  baggage  in  a  large  sledge,  constructed  ex- 
pressly for  the  purpose ;  and,  some  days  after,  Dr.  Kane 
himself  was  to  follow  in  his  dog-sledge. 

On  the  5th  of  March  the  large  sledge  was  made 
ready,  and  its  load  of  provisions,  &c.,  was  placed  in  it, 
preparatory  for  commencing  the  journey.  Tl^e  men 
who  were  appointed  to  haul  it,  then  took  hold  of  the 
ropes  and  drew  the  vehicle  about  one  hundred' yards  on 
the  ice,  to  ascertain  if  all  the  apparatus  were  in  good 
working  order.  The  men  then  came  back  to  the  brig 
and  reposed  themselves  for  several  hours.  At  eleven 
o'clock,  P.  M.,  a  luncheon  was  prepared  for  them  on 
board,  and  all  things  being  now  quite  ready,  they  com- 
menced their  expedition  at  midnight,  the  thermometer 
then  indicating  40^  below  zero.  The  travelers  pro- 
ceeded about  seven  miles  from  the  brig,  when  they  were 
obliged  to  come  if  a  halt,  having  found  to  their  sorrow, 
that  the  sledge,  however  well  it  might  work  on  the  hard 
ice,  was  not  suitably  constructed  for  traveling  on  any 
yielding  surface,  such  as  the  deep  snow  with  which  the 
ice  was  covered  at  the  point  which  they  had  now 
reached.  The  runners  of  this  sledge  were  so  narr^ftw 
that  they  sunk  very  deeply  into  the  snow,  and  thus 
made  the  heavily-laden  vehicle  almost  immovable.  The 
party  therefore  pitched  their  tent,  and  sent  Wilson  and 
Hickey  back  to  the  brig  to  apprize  the  commander  of 
their  difficulty.  When  these  men  arrived  and  deligp^red 
their  message,  Dr.  Kane  ordered  out  another  sledge, 
10*  .       . 


114 


GODFREY'S  NAEEIATIYB  OV  (THl 


which  was  provided  with  very  broad  runners,  and 
Riley,  Whipple,  and  myself  were  directed  to  drag  this 
sledge  to  our  comrades,  and  bring  back  the  one  which 
they  had  found  unserviceable.  The  wind  blew  in  our 
teeth  as  we  proceeded  on  this  mission,  and  the  cold 
produced  a  sensation  which  could  scarcely  be  distin- 
guished from  burning  ;  but  when  we  became  benumbed, 
or  about  half  frozen  to  death,  we  began  to  feel  more 
comfortable. 

The  dVess  worn  by  our  men  on  this  journey,  and  on 
similar  occasions,  was  cut  according  to  the  Esquimaux 
fashion.  A  monkey-jacket,  or  '^jumper"  covers  the 
upper  part  of  the  person.  This  garment  is  made  of 
bear-skins,  with  the  fur  on,  and  it  is  provided  with  a 
hood,  which  can  be  drawn  over  the  head  and  fastened 
•around  the  neck,  so  as  to  leave  only  a  smaH  part  of 
the  face  uncovered.  Tight  breeches  of  seal-skin,  and 
boots  of  the  same  «[iaterial,  complete  this  elegant  co»- 
tume,  which  imparts  to  the  wearer  a  more  bear-like 
appearance  than  would  be  required  of  an  actor  dressed 
for  one  of  the  leading  parts  in  the  drama  of  *^  Valentine 
and  Orson." 

Guided  by  Wilson  and  Hiokey,  we  reached  the  tent 
which  our  travelers  had  pitched  on  the  ice.  They 
seemed  to  have  become  sick  of  their  undertaking 
already,  though  they  had  traveled  only  seven  miles  of 
a  journey  which  might  extend  to  seven  hundred.  The 
general  opinion  among  them  was,  that  this  enterprise 
hacy>een  commenced  too  soon  in  the  season ;  for  the 
sun,  as  yet,  was  almost  powerless,  and  the  temperature 


OBINNELL  EXPLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


115 


of  the  atmosphere  was  almost  as  low  as  it  had  been  at 
any  time  during  the  winter. 

While  the  traveling  party  groaned  and  grumbled  in 
anticipation  of  the  hardsips  they  were  about  to  en- 
counter, Riley,  Whipple,  and  I  were  engaged  in  trans- 
ferring the  >.c^d  from  the  rejected  sledge  to  the  one 
which  we  had  brought  with  us ;  and,  when  this  work 
was  completed,  we  (somewhat  ironically,)  wished  the 
travelers  a  pleasant  journey,  and  bade  them  '*  good- 
night." In  answer  to  which  one  of  them  rather  dis- 
courteously recommended  us  to  go  to  some  place  which 
lies  a  little  to  the  southward  of  purgatory. 

A  whole  day  had  been  consumed  by  the  traveling 
party  in  waiting  for  a  change  of  sledges,  and  the  diffi- 
culties they  had  met  with  ?.t  the  outset  must  have  had 
a  very  discouraging  e£fect.  My  two  companions  and  I 
returned  to  the  brig,  dragging  the  sledge  from  which 
the  load  had  been  removed,  and  which,  in  its  lightened 
condition,  could  be  moved  without  much  trouble.  The 
next  day  I  began  to  put  a  team  of  dogs  in  training,  in 
order  to  have  them  under  due  regulation  for  the  use  of 
Dr.  Kane,  when  he  should  proceed  westward  to  join  the 
exploring  party  I  have  jmt  been  speaking  of.  In  order 
to  put  the  dogs  in  practice,  I  harnessed  them  in  a 
sledge  and  drove  to  the  fox-traps,  which  we  had  set  in 
various  places,  at  some  distance  from  the  brig.  These 
traps  are  of  Esquimaux  invention ;  they  are  constructed 
by  placing  flat  stones  in  a  position  to  form  a  sort  of 
box ;  another  stone,  suspended  by  a  string,  makes  the 
falling  door,  the  end  of  the  titring  being  carried  over 


•  H 


"I) 

m 


\ 


116 


GODFREY'S  NABRATWB  OT  THE 


the  top  of  the  trap,  and  fastened  to  a  trigger,  which  is 
l)aited  and  placed  at  the  hack  part  of  the  box,  so  that 
when  the  fox  nibbles  at  the  bait  the  string  is  disengaged, 
the  door  falls  and  closes  the  aperture  in  front,  making 
the  animal  a  prisoner.  The  traps  had  not  been  ex- 
amined for  a  week ;  several  foxes  had  been  caught ;  but 
ail  except  one  were  frozen  stiff,  and  were  as  dead  as  red- 
herrings.  I  brought  the  dead  animals  as  well  as  the 
survivor  to  the  brig ;  the  latter  was  soon  domesticated 
on  board,  and  became  a  great  favorite.  This  blue  fox 
conducted  himself  with  the  strictest  propriety,  and 
made  himself  extremely  useful  by  hunting  the  rats, 
which,  in  spite  of  Dr.  Kane's  grand  fumigation,  con- 
tinued to  be  very  numerous  and  troublesome.  "Jack," 
as  I  called  my  pet,  killed  more  of  the  long-tailed  ras- 
cals in  half  an  hour  than  the  fumigation  aforesaid  did 
in  two  days.  For  "ratting"  purposes,  I  consider  the 
blue  fox  as  far  superior  to  any  terrier ;  and  I  conceive 
that  it  would  be  worth  while  for  some  sporting  gen- 
tleman to  import  a  few  arctic  foxes  for  the  sake  of  car- 
rying on  that  elegant  and  tasteful  recreation  called 
rat-hunting,  which  has  lately  become  so  fashionable  in 
the  United  States.  Before  my  fox  was  brought,  the 
vermin  had  become  so  bold  and  impudent  that  they 
scarcely  took  any  trouble  to  keep  out  of  our  way.  It 
was  no  uncommon  thing  for  them  to  run  over  us  at 
night  while  we  were  asleep ;  and  on  one  occasion  an 
indivdual  of  the  species  attempted  to  warm  his  feet  at 
Whipple's  nose,  which  was  somewhat  of  a  Bardolph 
complexion  and  glowed  like  a  coal-grate.    Whipple, 


GRINNELL  EXBLORINO  EXPEDITION. 


117 


though  in  a  profound  slumber  at  the  time,  felt  the  tail 
of  the  intrusive  brute  in  his  mouth,  and  instinctively  ' 
closed  his  teeth  with  a  snap,  like  that  of  a  steel  rat- 
trap.  The  squealing  of  the  rat,  whose  tail  was  firmly 
held  between  Whipple's  masticators,  awakened  tl^^  ^ 
sleeper,  who  put  up  his  hand  and  caught  the  animal^ 
which,  after  biting  his  fingers  rather  severely,  was 

« 

crushed  to  death  in  his  grasp. 

I  think  Monsieur  Schubert,  the  French  cook,  boasted 
his  ability  to  prepare  exquisite  dishes,  in  the  most  ap- 
proved French  style,  to  be  composed  of  rats,  with  the 
proper  seasonings  and  appliances  to  make  them  more 
delicious.  One  day,  when  my  fox  had  been  more  than 
usually  successful  in  hunting,  Schubert  actually  pre- 
pared a  rat  fricaisee,  which  was  tasted  by  some  of  the 
o£Scer8  and  pronounced  excellent.  Although  our  men 
were  pining  for  a  change  of  diet,  and  especially  for  a 
taste  of  fresh  meat,  few  of  them  could  be  persuaded  to 
touch  this  mess,  though  Schubert  used  all  his  rhetoric  <r 
to  overcome  our  scruples,  assuring  us  that  similar  pre- 
parations were  often  served  up  at  some  of  the  most 
fashionable  restaurants  of  Paris ;  and  he  stated  that, 
among  French  gourmands,  if  a  dish  was  found  to  be 
palatable,  no  idle  curiosity  was  ever  manifested  with 
regard  to  its  composition. 

Ten  days  after  the  exploring  party  had  started,  we 
were  aroused  from  our  slumbers  at  midnight  by  the  in- 
telligence that  some  of  them  had  returned  in  a  most 
wretched  plight,  having  left' several  of  their  companions 
behind  in  a  dying  condition,  or  so  much  exhausted  that 


i^fl 


ll! 


\ii, 


»    i\ 


118 


QODFREY^S  NARRATIVE  OF  THl  ^ 


I 


3.. 


they  were  unable  to  get  back.  All  hands  immediately 
arose  to  give  due  attention  to  the  sufferers.  The  per- 
sons who  had  returned  were  Ohlsen,  Sonntag,  and  Pe- 
tersen. Their  faces  were  absolutely  black.  Ohlsen 's 
toes  were  frozen ;  Sonntag  was  stupefied,  and  appeared 
to  be  unconscious  of  his  situation ;  Petersen  was  in  a 
similar  condition ;  and  Ohlsen  informed  us  that  it  was 
with  extreme  difficulty  that  he  had  been  able  to  keep 
his  two  companions  in  motion  on  their  way  to  the  brig. 
Tliey  showed  a  constant  inclination  to  lie  down  and 
sleep ;  and  had,  in  fact,  been  in  a  sort  of  somnambulistic 
state  during  the  last  ten  miles  of  their  journey.  Ohlsen, 
though  he  himself  was  scarcely  alive,  was  the  only  one 
of  the  three  who  was  able  to  give  any  account  of  his 
party.  He  reported  that  four  of  his  companions  were 
lying  in  a  rude  tent,  at  the  distance  of  forty  miles  from' 
the  brig ;  that  they  were  all  disabled,  and,  as  he  be- 
lieved, at  the  point  of  death.  He  had  reason  to  sup- 
pose that  they  would  all  perish  before  any  succor  could 
reach  them.  The  persons  who  had  just  returned  de- 
manded our  first  attention.  Ohlsen's  statement  made 
us  fear  that  the  others  were  beyond  the  reach  of  earthly 
assistance.  The  three  returned  travelers  were  put  to 
bed  without  delay,  and  all  the  medical  skill  on  board 
was  called  into  immediate  requisition.  Doctors  Kane 
and  Hayes  gave  their  most  anxious  attention  to  those 
afflicted  persons ;  who,  as  soon  as  they  were  brought 
into  the  warmer  atmosphere  of  the  lower  deck,  began  to 
suffer  with  the  most  excruciating  agonies.  By  the  way, 
it  may  be  proper  to  inform  the  reader  that  the  suffering 


QBINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


119 


which  a  man  experiences  while  be  is  freezing,  or  while 
BOir  3  of  his  memhers  are  in  a  frozen  condition,  is  very 
light  compared  with  the  horrihle  anguish  which  he  feels 
when  the  frozen  parts  of  his  bodj  begin  to  thaw.  The 
pains  at  such  times  are  insupportable,  and  compel  the 
stoutest  man  to  scream  out  as  though  he  were  on  the 
rack.  It  was  found  necessary  to  amputate  all  of 
Ohisen's  tcos ;  Sonntag  and  Petersen  escaped  without 
mutilation,  but  they  were  delirious  and  otherwise  very 
ill  for  several  days  after  their  return. 
At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  of  the  day  after  the 

« 

return  of  these  three  persons,  we  began  to  fit  out  a 
sledge  party  to  go  to  the  relief  of  our  unfortunate  com- 
panions who  had  been  left  on  the  ice.  The  great  proba- 
bility was  that  they  had  all  perished ;  but,  as  we  could 
not  be  quite  certain  of  that  fact,  we  felt  bound  in  duty 
to  visit  them  with  as  little  delay  as  possible. 


A 


m': 


m7' 


•/Jyf 


120 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF.THl 


1 


) 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

DR.  KANE  AND  SEVERAL  MEN  GO  TO  THE  RELIEF  OF  THE 
PERSONS  SUPPOSED  TO  BE  DYING — SLOW  AND  TROU- 
BLESOME TRAVELING — OHLSEN'S  NOBLE  CONDUCT — 
HE  WALKS.  TWENTY  MILES  WITHOUT  ANY  TOES — DR. 
KANE'S  SUFFERINGS — HIS  LIFE  IN  DANGER — WB 
REACH  THE  TENT  WHERE  OUR  SICK  COMPANIONS  ARE 
LYING — THEIR  MIRACULOUS  PRESERVATION  FROM 
DEATH — DR.  KANE'S   PRAYER. 

The  persons  selected  to  go  to  the  relief  of  our  dis- 
tressed comrades  were,  besides  Dr.  Kane,  who  took  the 
lead  in  this  business,  McGary,  Morton,  Riley,  Blake, 
Bonsall,  and  myself.  It  was  necessary  that  we  should 
have  a  guide,  otherwise  the  sick  persons  might  not  have 
been  found ;  and  as  no  others  but  the  three  members 
of  their  party  who  had  returned  could  direct  us  on  the 
way,  it  was  necessary  to  take  one  of  those  three  with 
us.  Sonntag  and  Petersen  were  totally  unfit  for  this 
duty  ;  for,  besides  being  too  feeble  to  undertake  such 
a  journey,  they  had  not  recovered  their  senses.  We 
were  compelled,  therefore,  to  make  use  of  poor 
Ohlsen,  whose  toes  had  all  been  cut  off  only  a  few  houra 
previous,  and  who,  as  the  reader  may  suppose,  was  not 


0 
O 

K 
O 

c 


a. 


cc 


ts 


XT 


PHB 


^ 


? 


m 


i  «' 


I 


# 


i^Jkili:-' 


m 


OV  THE  QRINNXLL  EXPEDITION. 


123 


in  very  good  traveling  order.  His  mutilated  feet  were 
carefully  bandaged,  and  he  was  placed  in  a  sleeping 
bag  of  buffalo-skin,  on  the  sledge ;  all  care  being  taken 
to  make  him  as  comfortable  as  he  could  be  in  such  cir- 
cumstances. 

Unfortunately,  we  had  no  available  dog^team,  as 
great  sickness  and  mortality  prevailed  among  the 
quadrupeds  during  the  winter ;  and  such  of  the  survivors 
as  were  well  enough  to  travel  were  so  badly  trained  and 
so  little  under  control,  that  we  feared  that  they  would 
retard  our  progress  rather  than  help  us  onward.  It 
was  determined,  therefore,  that  the  men  themselves 
should  draw  the  sledge.  The  route  which  had  been 
taken  by  the  exploring  party  was  across  the  channel  of 
Smith's  Sound,  with  the  intention  of  reaching  the  oppo- 
site coast.  The  ice  on  the  Sound  was  exceedingly 
rough ;  in  fact,  there  was  scarcely  a  square  yard  with- 
out a  hill  or  a  hummock,  and  our  progress  with  the 
sled  was  so  very  slow,  that  nothing  but  the  disabled 
condition  of  our  guide,  Mr.  Ohlsen,  prevented  us  from 
leaving  the  vehicle  on  the  road  and  proceeding  on  our 
way  without  it.  Anxiety  for  the  fate  of  our  sick  com- 
panions urged  us  forward,  and  in  spite  of  all  obstacles 
wo  had  cleared  fifteen  miles  by  twelve  o'clock.  At  this 
point,  rest  and  refreshment  became  indispensable ;  we 
stopped  therefore  and  had  a  luncheon  of  hard  biscuit 
and  salt  pork.  Among  other  preparations  for  the 
journey,  which  had  been  made  in  the  morning  before 
our  departure,  a  number  of  bottles  filled  with  hot  water 
had  been  placed  in  the  sledge;  by  means  of  this  provi- 


124 


qodfbet's  nabratiye  of.  thb 


V. 


li 


r^  i 


dent  contdvance  we  were  now  supplied  with  something 
to  drink,  as  the  water  had  hecome  cool  enough  for  the 
purpose  without  heing  frozen. 

It  is  a  notable  circumstance  that  travelers  in  the 
polar  regions  are  as  liable  to  suffer  for  want  of  water 
as  those  who  wander  over  the  sandy  deserts  of  Africa. 
Ice  and  snow  cannot  be  used  for  the  purpose  of  quench- 
ing thirst  until  they  are  liquefied ;  the  liquefaction  of 
them,  in  these  regions,  requires  a  good  deal  of  artificial 
heat,  and  that,  of  course,  is  not  always  attainable  in  a 
country  which  produces  nothing  combustible  except 
animal  fat.  I  have  often  attempted  to  relieve  my 
thirst  by  sucking  pieces  of  ice  or  lumps  of  snow,  but  the 
expedient  is  painfully  tantalizing,  serving  rather  to 
increase  the  drought  than  to  allay  it. 

Soon  after  we  had  disposed  of  our  lunch,  we  started 
again  on  our  toilsome  way ;  the  inequalities  of  the 
route  made  sledge-hauling  a  work  of  extreme  difficulty, 
and  although  the  temperature,  at  this  time,  was  more 
than  fifty  degrees  below  zero,  all  of  the  men  who  took 
a  part  in  the  severe  labor  were  in  a  profuse  perspiration. 
The  difficulties  of  the  road  increased  as  we  went  forward, 
and  our  progress,  at  the  same  time,  was  so  slow,  that 
a  feeling  of  despair  began  to  pervade  the  whole  party. 
We  had  now  been  ten  hours  on  the  road  and  had  ad-, 
vanced  but  twenty  miles.  The  sledge  was  the  great 
incumbrance,  and  it  was  totally  useless,  except  for  the 
purpose  of  conveying  our  disabled  guide.  Mr.  Ohlsen^ 
perceiving  where  the  difficulty  lay,  with  the  most  heroic 
self-devotion,  requested  that  the  unwieldy  vehicle  might 


GRINNELL    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


125 


;he 
;he 


be  left  behind,  and  signified  his  determination  to  pro- 
ceed on  foot.  He  supposed  that  we  had  now  achieved 
half  of  the  journey,  and  that  a  walk  of  twenty  miles 
would  bring  us  to  the  place  where  the  sick  people  had 
been  left.  But  who  without  a  shudder  could  think  of 
permitting  a  man,  whose  toes  had  been  amputated  on 
the  preceding  evening,  to  walk  twenty  miles  on  the  ice. 
The  experiment  appeared  to  be  both  cruel  and  danger- 
ous ;  but  the  alternative  was  still  worse.  If  we  should 
attempt  to  carry  the  sledge  with  us,  it  might  require 
ten  or  twelve  hours  more  to  reach  our  perishing  com- 
panions ;  and  so  much  delay  would  seem  to  preclude 
every  chance  of  saving  any  of  their  lives.  We  were  there- 
fore, (on  the  principle  of  choosing  the  least  of  two  evils,) 
compelled  to  embrace  Ohlsen's  proposition.  Accord- 
ingly the  sledge  was  abandoned;  and,  by  supporting 
our  guide  as  well  as  we  could,  and  carrying  him  occa- 
sionally, we  managed  to  get  on  with  considerable  expe- 
dition. Dr.  Kane  himself,  owing  to  the  delicacy  of 
his  constitution,  which  was  not  well  calculated  to  sus- 
tain such  severe  hardships,  was  almost  as  helpless  as 
our  guide.  He  fainted  several  times,  and  it  required 
all  the  attention  of  Morton  and  myself  to  keep  him  in, 
motion.  At  length,  after  struggling  along  for  five  or 
six  hours  more,  we  came  within  view  of  the  tent  in 
which  we  expected  to  find  our  comrades,  either  living 
or  dead.  We  could  scarcely  think  it  possible  that  they 
fiere  yet  alive,  for  when  Sonntag,  Ohlsen,  and  Peter- 
sen left  them,  they  were  supposed  to  be  in  a  dying  con- 
iition.  Thirty-six  hours  had  since  elapsed,  and  during 
11* 


K 


I 


h 


126 


GODFRET'S  NAB&ATIYE  OF  THB 


all  that  time  they  could  not  have  had  any  kind  of  as- 
eistance  or  relief.  I  fixed  my  eyes  on  the  little  tent 
with  the  most  painful  anxiety ;  it  was  pitched  between 
two  hillocks  of  ice,  and  the  whole  scene  around  was  cold, 
dreary,  and  deatb-like.  In  my  mind's-  eye  I  could 
already  see  the  four  corpses,  lying  on  the  icy  floor  of 
the  canvas  house ;  an'd  I  thought  that  if  the  lives  of 
these  men  could  only  have  been  prolonged  until  our 
arrival,  that  they  might  not  have  believed  themselves 
deserted  and  abandoned  by  those  from  whom  they  had 
a  right  to  expect  sympathy  and  assistance,  it  would 
have  a£forded  no  little  consolation  both  to  them  and  to 
us. 

The  death-scene  I  had  imagined  appeared  to  be 
realized  when  we  reached  the  door  of  the  tent.  Four 
bodies,  apparently  lifeless,  each  one  enclosed  in  a  sleep- 
ing-bag, were  lying  closely  together  in  the  little  enclo- 
sure. I  was  the  first  one  who  arrived  at  the  entrance 
of  the  tent,  and  for  a  moment  I  hesitated  to  examine 
the  bodies,  fearful  that  my  worst  apprehensions  would 
be  confirmed.  No  sound  was  heard,  not  even  a  sup- 
pressed groan,  not  even  the  spasmodic  breathing  of 
,  persons  in  the  grasp  of  death.  No  movement,  nor  any 
other  indication  of  life  could  be  discovered.  I  kneeled 
down  by  the  side  of  one  of  the  bodies,  which  proved  to  ^ 
be  that  of  Brooks,  the  first  o£Scer  of  the  brig  and  com-  - 
mander  of  the  exploring  party,  and,  with  feelings  of 
inexpressible  joy,  I  found  that  he  still  lived.  He  fixed 
his  eyes  on  me  and  gave  me  a  faint  smile  of  recogni- 
tion.   I  sprung  to  the  door  of  the  tent  and  shouted  to 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


127 


my  companions,  who  were  still  at  some  distance,  in 
order  to  relieve  them  as  soon  as  possible  from  their 
painful  suspense  and  to  encourage  them  to  hasten 
onward.  I  then  examined  the  other  three  bodies,  and 
found  that  the  vital  spark  still  lingered  in  them  all. 

The  four  persons  whose  lives  we  came  scarcely  soon 
enough  to  save,  were  Brooks,  Wilson,  Schubert,  and 
Baker.  As  soon  as  Dr.  Kane  and  the  others  of  our 
party  arrived  at  the  tent,  the  Doctor  professionally 
examined  the  sick  people,  and  found  that  the  condition 
of  two  of  them,  at  least,  was  critical.  All  were  badly 
frozen,  but  Schubert  and  Baker  were  believed  to  be 
beyond  all  chance  of  recovery.  However,  under  Dr. 
Kane's  directions,  every  available  remedy  was  applied 
on  the  spot;  though  it  was  evident  that  little  could  be 
done  for  the  suiFerers  before  they  were  reconveyed  to 
the  brig.  A  fire  of  lard,,  blubber,  waste-paper,  &c., 
was  kindled  in  an  earthen  pan  at  the  door  of  the  tent, 
and  the  preparation  of  some  warm  broth  for  the  sick  was 
immediately  commenced.  The  sledge  which  had  been 
used  by  the  exploring  party  stood  near  the  tent  ^  on 
this  we  placed  our  invalid  companions,  after  the  broth 
had  been  administered  to  them  in  homoeopathic  doses, 
and  having  rested  ourselves  for  half  an  hour,  we  started 
on  our  return.  The  dangerous  condition  of  the  sick 
persons  required  that  we  should  hasten  back  to  our 
vessel,  where  they  might  meet  with  those  attentions 
which  their  situation  demanded. 

When  we  were  all  ready  to  begin  our  backward 
journey,  Dr.  Kane,  in  a  short  but  aflfecting  j^rayer, 


! 
1      I 

h 


!!  \\ 


I  '1 


H 


^  128 


qodfret's  nabratiye  or  twt 


•arnostly  recommended  our  party  to  the  prote6«ion 
of  Divine  Providence.  He  acknowledged  the  merciful 
kindness  of  God,  which  had  preserved  the  lives  of 
several  of  our  number  in  a  manner  which  might  almost 
be  regarded  as  miraculous,  and  he  implored  Omnipo- 
tent Goodness  to  mitigate  the  sufferings  of  those  who 
were  afflicted,  and  so  to  direct  us  that  we  might  escape 
the  great  danger  to  which  we  must  be  exposed  on  the 
journey  we  were  about  to  commence. 

A  feeling  of  sadness  pervaded  the  whole  party,  and  bur 
march  much  resembled  that  of  a  funeral  procession.  In 
fact,  the  sledge  we  were  dragging  was  laden  with  the 
sick  and  dying ;  and  there  was  little  room  to  doubt  that 
some  of  them  would  be  dead  before  we  could  arrive  at 
our  place  of  destination. 


t 


CmiNNSLL  BZPLOBINO  IXPEDITION. 


129 


'?  'l> 


CHAPTER   Xiy. 


A  TERRIBLB  JOURNEY  OVER  THE  lOB — SUICIDAL  DROW- 
SINESS OF  OUR  PEOPLE — THET  BECOME  DESPERATELY 
SOMNOLENT — DR.  EANE  AND  THE  AUTHOR  TRAVEL  BT 
THEMSELVES — THE  DOCTOR'S  VISION  OF  A  BEAR — THE 
author's  TROUBLESOME  DUTIES — HE  CARRIES  THE 
DOCTOR  ON  HIS  SHOULDER — THE  DOCTOR  MISTAKES 
HIM  FOR  A  BEAR — THE  AUTHOR  SHAVES  THE  DO&TOR 
WITH  A  JACK-KNIFE  —  STRANGE  FACT  RESPECTING 
SPIRITUOUS  LIQUORS. 


I 


f 


ri! 


As  we  bad  anticipated,  onr  return  to  the  brig  was 
attended  witb  still  more  trouble,  hardships,  and  perils 
than  we  had  encountered  on  our  way  to  the  tent.  We 
had  a  heavy  sledge-load  of  sick  people,  five  in  number, 
including  Ohlsen,  whose  late  pedestrian  exercise,  while 
his  condition  was  so  unfit  for  it,  had  rendered  him  as 
helpless  as  any  of  the  others.  The  reader  may  imagine 
how  difficult  it  was  to  draw  a  sledge  with  such  a  load 
>  over  consolidated  masses  of  ice,  where  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  proceed  two  yards  without  ascending  a  hill  or 
sinking  into  a  hollow.  There  were  places,  and  not  a 
few  of  them,  where  every  thing  on  the  sledge,  including 
the  bodies  of  our  invalid  passengers,  had  to  be  removed 
and  laid  upon  the  ice,  while  we  lifted  the  vehicle  over 


* 


■4 


■p 


*  130 


aODFREYS  NARRATIVE  OP  THB 


I*.    " 


r 


some  obstruction  which  would  otherwise  have  been  in- 
Burmountable.  It  was  a  most  unfortunate  necessity 
which  compelled  us  frequently  to  disturb  these  suffering 
people,  several  of  whom  appeared  to  be  in  their  last 
agonies,  by  lifting  them  off  and  on  the  sledge.  In 
some  places  the  hummocks  or  ridges  of  ice  were  impas- 
sable, and  we  were  obliged  to  go  around  them,  which 
gave  us  a  longer  distance  to  travel.  The  men  worked 
with  admirable  spirit,  as  if  aware  that  it  was  a  struggle 
for  life ;  but  with  all  our  exertions,  the  rate  at  which 
we  traveled  was  little  more  than  a  mile  per  hour,  on 
an  average.  This  sort  of  progress  was  not  very  en- 
couraging, as  the  distance  to  the  brig  was  more  than 
forfy  miles;  and,  as  we  could  not  work  more  than 
twelve  hours  in  the  twenty-four,  it  seemed  likely  that 
we  should  be  at  least  three  days  on  the  road,  and  we 
had  scarcely  enough  provisions  to  serve  us  for  forty- 
eight  hours. 

After  the  first  ten  miles  were  passed,  the  men  began 
to  show  fatigue,  and  became  so  drowsy,  that  one  or 
another  was  continually  throwing  himself  on  the  ice. 
The  scene  reminded  me  of  John  Bunyan's  accdunt  of 
the  Enchanted  Ground,  where  men  were  desperately 
somnolent,  although  the  consequences  of  sleeping  were 
most  appalling.  Bonsall  and  Morton  begged  Dr.  Kane, 
in  the  most  pathetic  manner,  for  permission  to  take 
"  only  a  short  nap."  They  were  not  at  all  afraid  of 
freezing,  (they  said,)  for  they  did  not  feel  "  the  least 
bit  cold."  Doubtless  that  was  true  enough,  and  there 
was  so  much  the  better  reason  for  not  indulging  them 


fl 


6d 


P 


i^ 


•^? 


■^ 


\  ) 


i 


I 


t 


»t 


# 


ORINNELL  EXPU)RINO  EXPEDITION. 


183 


m  their  inclination  to  slumber.  At  last  matters  came 
to  a  crisis ;  all  hands,  ^cept  Dr.  Kane  and  myself, 
threw  themselves  on  the  ice,  in  spite  of  all  remon- 
strances, and  were  asleep  in  a  moment.  It  was  impos- 
sible to  arouse  them ;  nothing  could  be  done  therefore 
but  to  pitch  the  tent  and  come  to  a  halt  for  the*  night. 
I  erected  the  tent  as  speedily  as  I  could,  and  put  all 
the  people,  sick  and  well,  to  bed.  They  were  all  equally 
helpless ;  for  sleep  made  some  of  them  as  powerless  as 
sickness  did  the  others.  I  was  like  the  old  woman  who 
lived  in  the  shoe,  having  so  many  children  to  take  care 
of.  When  I  had  arranged  them  all  for  the  night,  the 
tent  was  so  much  crowded,  that  there  Were  no  sort  of 
accommodations  for  Dr.  Kane  and  me.  The  Doctor, 
observing  this  difficulty,  proposed  to  walk  on  nine  miles 
further  to  the  place  where  we  had  left  the  sledge  we 
had  started  with,  and  where  we  had  deposited  another 
tent,  to  be  in  readiness  for  use  on  our  way  back. 

Considering  how  fatigued  and  benumbed  we  were  at 
the  time,  this  walk  was  a  considerable  undertaking.  I 
did  not  doubt  my  own  ability  to  endure  it,  but  I  felt 
very  apprehensive  that  the  Doctor,  (whose  constitution 
was  by  no  means  robust,)  would  be  wholly  unequal  to 
the  task.  However,  there  was  no  ttlternative,  and, 
without  pausing  to  reflect  on  the  troubles  before  us,  we 
betook  ourselves  resolutely  to  the  journey.  The  inci- 
dents of  this  walk  of  nine  miles  have  been  related  by 
Dr.  Kane  in  his  published  journal ;  and  several  of  them 
are  marvelous  enough  to  surprise  every  reader.  Cer- 
tain I  am  that  they  surprised  me;  though  I  feel  well 
12 


^1 


134 


Godfrey's  narrative  of  the 


% 


r 


assured  that  the  Doctor  intended  to  relate  fi\ct3.  He 
states  that  the  cold  made  us  hoth  delirious.  This  is 
only  half  correct ;  only  one  of  us,  namely,  Dr.  Kane 
himself^  was  in  that  condition.  Had  we  hoth  lost  the 
use  of  our  senses,  we  would  most  certainly  have  perished 
on  the.  way.  As  it  was,  although  I  had  possession  of 
my  reason  and  judgment  as  perfectly  as  I  have  at  this 
moment,  it  required  the  constant  exercise  of  all  my 
faculties  to  prevent  a  fatal  catastrophe.  The  Doctor 
speaks  of  a  hear  which  '^  walked  leisurely  hefore  us,  and 
tore  up  a  jacket  which  Mcijary  had  thrown  off  on  the  out- 
ward journey."  "  He  tore  it  into  shreds  and  rolled  it  up 
in  a  hall,"  (says  the  Doctor,)  hut  never  offered  to  inter- 
fere with  our  progress."  Now  this  story,  in  itself,  is 
improbahle.  The  conduct  here  ascrihed  to  the  polar 
hear  is  not  characteristic  of  that  animal,  which  would 
he  very  unlikely  to  waste  his  time  in  playing  poodle- 
like tricks  with  a  sailor's  jacket.  This  hear,  in  fact, 
was  a  creation  of  the  Doctor's  fancy.  He  spoke  of  it 
at  the  time  when  he  supposed  that  he  saw  it ;  hut, 
although  my  eyesight  was  much  hotter  than  his,  I  saw 
nothing  of  the  kind.  He  talked  incoherently  during 
the  whole  time  of  our  walk,  except  when  he  fell  into  a 
state  of  utter  insensihility.  I  supported  him  on  my 
arm  when  he  was  ahle  to  walk ;  and  when  he  swooned 
away,  as  he  did  two  or  three  times,  I  carried  him  on 
my  shoulder.  At  last,  with  inconceivahle  exertion  on 
my  part,  we  reached  the  place  where  the  sledge  and 
tent  had  heen  left ;  and  here  new  difficulties  presented 
tliemselves.     I  was  ohliged  to  erect  the  tent,  in  order 


QRINNELL  EXPLOBINQ  EXPEDITION 


135 


He 

is  is 


to  make  it  serviceable,  and,  at  the  same  time,  to  keep 
the  Doctor  awake ;  for  he  was  so  nearly  frozen,  that 
he  was  already  in  that  torpid  state  which  immediately 
precedes  death.  Before  I  could  get  a  pole  set  up,  I 
was  obliged  to  step  aside  and  give  my  commander  a 
hearty  shake  with  one  hand,  while  I  held  the  tent-pole 
in  the  other.  And  so  the  work  of  pitching  the  tent 
proceeded  with  frequent  interruptions,  until  the  job  was 
finished.  But  while  this  work  was  in  progress,  the  bear, 
which  had  been  haunting  the  Doctor's  imagination 
during  our  recent  walk,  now  seemed  to  be  identified 
with  my  unworthy  self;  for,  in  his  half-conscious  con- 
dition, he  several  times  called  on  his  favorite  men, 
Bonsall,  Morton,  &c.,  to  shoot  that  bear  which  was 
"  rummaging  in  the  tent." 

When  I  had  succeeded  in  putting  the  tent  up,  I  has- 
tened to  prepare  the  Doctor  for  a  safe  and  comfortable 
nap  in  his  sleeping-bag.  Among  other  preparations 
which  I  found  necessary  for  this  object,  was  cutting 
away  with  my  jack-knife  vhis  beard  and  woolen  tippet, 
which  had  been  frozen  together  in  a  solid  mass.  This 
rough  shaving  operation  must  have  been  painful,  but 
it  did  not  arouse  him  to  a  full  stat6  of  consciousness. 
Having  chafed  his  limbs  to  restore  animation,  and 
packed  him  up  in  furs  and  blankets,  I  then — fatigued 
and  exhausted  as  I  was — ^kindled  a  blubber  fire  at  the 
door  of  the  tent,  and  began  to  prepare  some  coffee  and 
*'scouse"  for  my  commander's  refreshment  when  he 
should  awake.  The  "  land-lubbers"  will  please  to  un- 
derstand that  Bcouse  is  a  marine  article  of  diet,  com- 


136 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OP  THE 


posed  of  salted  pork  and  hard  biscuit,  boiled  together 
and  reduced  to  a  sort  of  hash.  It  is  a  dish  which,  for 
want  of  any  thing  more  suitable^  is  often  prepared  for 
invalids  on  shipboard. 

The  Doctor  slept  heavilj  for  about  two  hours,  when 
he  awoke  and  complained  of  feeling  very  unwell.  He 
requested  me  to  give  him  some  spirits,  and  directed  me 
where  to  find  it,  in  a  case-bottle  among  the  baggage. 
As  the  water  which  I  had  kept  on  the  fire  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  coffee  was  now  somewhat  heated,  I  gave 
him  a  stiff  dram  of  warm  **  toddy,"  which  appeared  to 
do  him  good,  and  I  now  observed,  with  great  pleasure, 
that  he  had  perfectly  recovered  the  use  of  his  senses. 
He  soon  fell  into  another  profound  slumber,  from  which 
I  aroused  him  when  his  coffee  and  '*  scouse"  were  ready. 

Having  thus  paid  all  necessary  attentions  to  my  com- 
mander, I  laid  myself  down  and  slept  for  about  two 
hours.  I  was  then  awakened  by  Dr.  Kane,  who  called 
to  me  and  requested  me  to  go  out  and  see  if  the  others 
of  our  party  were  approaching.  I  looked  out  accord- 
ingly, but  saw  nothing  of  them ;  however,  as  I  thought 
that  they  must  soon  come,  I  began  to  cook  something 
for  their  entertainment  when  they  arrived.  I  had  pre- 
pared a  pot  of  chocolate  and  some  soup  when  they 
came  in  sight.  Those  of  our  people  who  were  well  had 
derived  much  benefit  from  their  night's  repose,  and 
when  they  overtook  Dr.  Kane  and  myself  they  all  ap- 
peared quite  freshened  up  and  in  pretty  good  spirits. 
The  case  was  very  different  with  our  sick  companions. 
The  tent  in  which  they  slept  had  been  much  crowded 


m 


QRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


13T 


during  the  night,  as  all  of  our  traveling  party,  except 
Dr.  Kane  and  I,  were  packed  in  it.     In  consequence 
of  the  crowding,  the  interior  of  the  tent  became  quite 
warm,  and  this  circumstance  produced  a  thaw  in  the 
frozen  limbs  of  our  invalids.     Before  this  change,  they 
had  not  been  sensible  of  pain,  but  now  their  agonies 
became  very  acute,  causing  them  to  pass  the  night  in 
torture,   and  morning  brought  them  no  relief.     The 
feet  and  legs  of  Schubert  and  Baker  soon  mortified. 
'    I  reported  the  arrival  of  our  people  to  Dr.  Kane,  who 
arose  to  give  them  a  welcome.     The  meal  I  had  pre- 
pared was  served  out  to  them,  and  a  proper  allowance 
of  liquor  was  given  to  each  man.     I  will  here  take  no- 
tice of  a  fact  which  struck  me  as  very  remarkable,  and 
which,  as  I  thihk,  has  never  been  mentioned  by  any 
other  arctic  traveler.     No  matter  how  much  a  man  may 
have  been  addicted  to  the  use  of  ardent  spirits,  he  sel- 
dom shows  an  extravagant  appetite  for  that  kind  of 
liquid  refreshment  when  he  is  traveling  in  those  regions 
of  the  extreme  north.     There,  (strange  as  it  may  ap- 
pear,) cold  water  is   generally  preferred  before  any 
other  kind  of  t>everage.     It  is  observable,  likewise,  that 
the  native  inhabitants  of  the  polar  regions,  namely,  the 
Esquimaux,  show  no  predilection  for  alcoholic  liquors ; 
and  in  this  respect  they  differ  from  all  other  savages. 
It  appears  to  me  that  the  disposition  to  reject  spirituous 
liquors  in  those  climes  is  instinctive  ;  and  I  argue  from 
thence  that  it  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  ardent  spirits 
are  beneficial  to  a  man  who  is  much  exposed  to  an  ex- 
cessively cold  atmosphere.     I  always  found  that  I  could 


138 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  TBE 


endure  the  cold  much  hotter  when  I  drank  nothing  hut 
water  or  some  other  non-stimulating  liquid,  such  as  tea 
or  choBolate.  I  have  ohserved,  moreover,  that  the 
drinking  of  distilled  spirits,  even  in  small  quantities, 
will  often  induce  or  aggravate  those  fits  of  insanity  to 
which  arctic  travelers  are  liable.  The  small  ration  of 
liquor  which  was  dealt  out  to  our  people  on  the  occasion 
to  which  I  now  have  reference,  made  them  behave  in  a 
frantic  manner,  and  indtilge  themselves  in  a  wild  jollity, 
which,  considering  the  situation  of  our  sick  comrades,' 
was  certainly  ill-timed  as  well  as  extravagant. 


'^ii 


'^^• 


X-;' 


4 


I 


OBINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION 


CHAPTER  XV. 

» 

RETURN  OP  THE  RESCUE  PARTY — OUR  GREAT  ©ANvBR 
AND  PROVIDENTIAL  DELIVERANCE — THE  WHOLE  COM- 
PANY BECOME  DELIRIOUS — STRANGE  PHASES  OF  IN- 
SANITY— THE  author's  feelings  OP  DESPERATION — 
TERRIBLE  SUFFERINGS  OF  HIS  HALF-FROZEN  COMPAN- 
IONS— ^ARRIVAL  AT  THE  BRIG — DEATH  AND  BURIAL  OF 
SCHUBERT  AND  BAKER— WE  ARE  VISITED  BY  SAVi  GE 
ESQUIMAUX— HANS  CHRISTIAN'S  ROMANTIC  LOVE  AF- 
FAIR. 


While  our  comrades  were  following  after  Dr.  "Kane 
and  myself,  they  were  much  puzzled  by  the  occasional 
appearance  of  only  one  man's  tracks  in  the  snow.  They 
wondered  if  the  Doctor  and  I  had  been  amusing  our- 
selves by  trying  an  experiment  which  is  common  among 
the  North  American  Indians,  who,  in  order  to  conceal 
their  numbers  from  their  pursuing  enemies,  walk  in 
single  file,  each  one  treading  in  his  predecessor's  foot- 
steps. Our  people  stated  that  they  sometimes  found 
but  one  pair  of  tracks  for  two  or  three  miles  together ; 
and  this  account  surprised  me,  for  I  really  was  not 
aware  that  I  had  carried  the  Doctor  so  far  "at  a 
stretch."    Dr.  Kane,  in  his  published  journal,  while 


S^ 


f 


140 


Q0DFRE1  8  NABRATIYE  OF  THE 


alluding  to  my  services  on  this  occasion,  says :  "  God- 
frey, with  whom  the  memory  of  this  day's  work  may 
atone  for  many  faults  of  a  later  time,  had  a  better  eye 
than  myself,"  &c.  Had  the  Doctor's  extreme  modesty 
allowed  him  to  place  a  proper  estimate  on  the  value  of 
bis  own  life,  he  might  have  thought,  perhaps,  that  the 
assistance  I  then  rendered  him  deserved  a  more  hand- 
some acknowledgment.  As  for  *^  the  many  faults  of  a 
later  time"  to  which  he  refers,  I  shall  come  to  the  con- 
fessional in  this  volume,  and  the  reader  shall  know  the 
full  extent  of  my  ^uilt.  Then,  it  may  be,  when  I  have 
expressed  all  the  penitence  which  the  case  may  seem 
to  require,  the  public  will  give  me  absolution,  though 
my  commander  himself  wouM  have  devoted  me  to  capi- 
tal punishment !  V 

After  we  had  refreshed  ourselves  with  food  and  rest, 
we  started  for  the  brig,  from  which,  according  to  our 
calculation,  we  were  now  about  twenty-five  miles.  It 
is  impossible  to  give  the  reader  any  description  of  the 
horrors  of  this  part  of  our  journey.  The  route  was  so 
toilsome,  on  account  of  the  roughness  of  the  ice,  that 
the  greatest  speed  we  could  make  was  less  than  a  mile 
and  a  half  per  hour.  The  labor  of  hauling  the  sledge, 
laden  with  five  invalids  and  the  baggage,  tents,  &c., 
wearied  the  men  out ;  they  were  obliged  to  make  fre- 
quent halts,  being  so  overcome  with  fatigue  that  they 
fell  on  the  ice,  panting  for  breath  and  totally  exhausted. 
In  the  mean  time,  the  shrieks  and  groans  of  our  sick 
people,  who  endured  the  most  excruciating  torments, 
harassed  our  minds  and  distressed  us  infinitely  more 


QRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


Ml 


than  our  own  toils  and  corporeal  sufferings.  On  this 
occasion  I  believe  our  whole  company — myself  included 
— were  seized  with  frenzy.  I  know  that  all  my  com- 
panions were  fr  .^tic,  for  they  laughed  immoderately, 
gibbered,  uttered  the  most  frightful  imprecations, 
mimicked  the  screams  and  groans  of  the  invalids, 
howled  like  wild  beasts,  and,  in  short,  exhibited  a  scene 
of  insane  fury  which  I  have  never  seen  equaled  in  any 
lunatic  asylum.  After  the  lapse  of  a  few  minutes  the 
frightful  hubbub  would  suddenly  cease ;  the  raving  ma- 
niacs were  changed  to  sullen  and  moping  idiots,  weep- 
ing and  blubbering  like  children ;  and  in  this  condition 
all  would  move  on  mechanically  for  perhaps  half  a  mile, 
when,  as  if  all  were  actuated  by  one  disorderly  spirit, 
another  outburst  would  take  place,  and  the  former  scene 
of  maniacal  fury  was  re-enacted.  If  I  was  as  mad  as 
the  others,  my  madness  was  of  the  melancholy  order. 
Never  before  or  since  have  I  felt  such  a  strong  in- 
clination to  commit  suicide.  I  looked  about  anxiously 
for  some  chasm  in  the  ice  into  which  I  could  throw 
myself,  and  so  put  an  end  to  my  intolerable  misery, 
the  precise  nature  of  which  I  could  not  discern,  but 
which  seemed  to  be  altogether  disconnected  from  bodily 
suffering.  I  was  not  conscious  of  any  cofporeal  pain, 
but  there  was  an  anguish  of  the  mind,  or  of  the  soul, 
which  I  will  not  pretend  to  describe. 

It  is  indeed  a  most -wonderful  circumstance  that  such 
a  troop  of  madmen  (not  one  of  whom  was  sane  enough 
to  conduct  the  others,)  could  find  their  way  to  the  brig. 
Yet  it  is  evident  that  we  must  baye  taken  the  straight- 


I 


;!'\. 
n 


;i 


I 


142 


GODFREY'S   NARRATTVTB  OP.  THE 


est  course ;  and  we  could  not  have  made  the  journey  in 
less  tinfO)  probably,  if  we  had  been  guided  and  con- 
troled  by  the  soundest  reason  and  judgment.  Never- 
theless, we  consumed  more  than  fourteen  hours  in  trav- 
eling the  last  twenty  miles.  During  this  walk,  brandy 
was  occasionally  administered  to  the  men  in  very  small 
doses,  each  one  receiving  not  more  than  a  tablespoon- 
ful  at  a  time.  But  although  this  stimulus  was  used 
very  cautiously,  I  believe  it  did  much  more  harm  than 
good  ;  and  I  attribute  to  this  very  cause  a  good  deal  of 
the  frenzy  which  prevailed  among  our  party. 

When  we  came  within  eight  or  ten  miles  of  tjie  brig, 
some  of  us  partially  recovered  our  rationality.  Dr. 
iCane  was  then  self-possessod  enough  to  order  Bonsall 
CO  hasten  forward  to  carry  to  Dr.  Hayes  the  intelli- 
gence of  our  approach,  and  to  bring  a  dog-sledge,  with 
some  bottles  of  hot  water  and  other  articles  for  the  use 
of  the  sick.  Bonsall  had  become  sane  enough  to  ex- 
ecute this  order  in  a  businesslike  manner ;  and  so 
promptly  did  he  perform  his  task,  that  when  we  had 
proceeded  at  our  very  slow  pace  three  miles  further, 
and  rested  for  about  an  hour,  he  met  us  with  the  arti- 
cles required.  Having  no  load  to  carry,  he  traversed 
the  route  quickly,  and  the  dog-team  brought  him  back 
with  the  celerity  of  lightning.  As  soon  as  the  dog- 
sledge  arrived,  Dr.  Kane  entered  it,  and  telling  us  that 
he  was  going  to  make  preparations  for  the  reception 
of  the  sick,  he  set  off  at  full  speed,  and  so  reached  the 
brig  at  least  two  hours  sooner  than  we  did.  We  all  ar- 
rived at  last,  after  an  absence  of  three  days  and  nights, 


n 

ai 
w 
a 


m 


ad 
mi 

CO 

wi 


ORINNELL  EXPLORINO    EXPEDITION. 


143 


according  to  the  mode  of  computing  time  in  the  tem- 
perate latitudes.  The  average  temperature  during  the 
whole  of  this  time  was  ahout  40°  below  zero. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  a  consultation  over  our  sick 
men  was  held  by  Doctors  Kane  and  Hayes.  They 
ascertained  that  the  condition  of  Schubert  and  Baker 
was  nearly  hopeless.  Both  of  these  persons  died  soon 
after  their  return,  and  were  buried  on  one  of  the  islands 


1  1 


i 


BUBIAL-FLACE  OF  SCHUBERT  AND  BAEEB. 


adjacent  to  our  winter  harbor.  Schubert  was  a  French- 
man; he  had  shipped  on  board  of  the  Advance  as 
cook;  but,  to  his  credit  be  it  said,  he  was  always 
willing  to  perform  any  duties  which  the  exigencies  of 


144 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OJT  THE 


f 


the  service  required.  Baker  was  a  native  of  Pennsyl- 
vania. These  two  unhonored  victims  of  the  exploring 
mania  were  buried  side  by  side,  according  to  the  Es- 
quimaux style  of  sepulture,  the  bodies  being  deposited 
above  ground,  and  covered  with  arches  of  stones,  ce- 
mented together  by  pouring  water  over  them,  the  fluid 
immediately  becoming  solidified  by  the  cold.  The 
other  persons  who  were  frozen,  will  probably  be  crip- 
pled for  life,  as  some  parts  of  their  feet  were  amputated, 
as  the  only  means  of  preserving  their  lives. 

A  day  or  two  after  our  return,  we  had  a  visit  from  a 
party  of  Esquimaux  savages,  who  resided  at  a  village 
or  settlement  about  ninety  miles  from  our  harbor. 
These  curious  people  came  hi  dog-sledges,  and  brought 
with  them  a  quantity  of  fresh  meat,  the  flesh  of  seals 
and  walruses,  which  they  wished  to  exchange  for  knives, 
needles,  beads,  copper  jewelry,  and  other  knick-knacks. 
We  were  much  amused  by  the  jovial  and  eccentric  be- 
havior of  these  savages,  and  they  were  no  less  delighted 
with  our  company,  testifying  their  pleasure  by  dancing 
around  us  and  screaming,  <*  Oab-lumaik !" — (white 
men.)  They  showed  a  disposition  to  steal  every  porta- 
ble article  that  came  in  their  way ;  if  detected  in  the 
act,  they  would  pass  it  off  as  a  joke,  never  showing  any 
signs  of  shame  or  anger  when  the  stolen  article  was 
taken  from  them. 

Among  these  visitors  was  an  Esquimaux  named 
Novatong,  who  had  formerly  lived  at  the  Danish  settle- 
ment called  Proven,  on  the  south-western  coast  of 
Greenland.     While  residing  at  that  place  he  had  es- 


QBINNELL  IXPLOIUMO  BXPSDITION 


T45 


poiieed  a  Danish  woman,  by  whom  he  had  two  daughters, 
who  were  far  superior  in  personal  appearance  to  the 
females  of  the  unmixed  Esquimaux  bread.  The  father 
of  these  girls,  the  aforesaid  Novatong,  had  tried  civi- 
lization for  awhile,  and  did  not  like  it ;  he  therefore  re- 
lapsed into  the  barbarism  of  his  ancestors,  and  took  up 
his  residence  among  the  savage  tribe  in  whose  society 
we  found  him.  To  the  settlement  in  which  this  renegade 
lived,  Hans  Christian,  (Dr.  Kane's  Esquimaux  pet^)  was 
several  times  sent  to  negotiate  for  provisions.  On  his 
very  first  visit  he  had  the  misfortune  to  be  victimized 
by  the  killing  charms  of  Miss  Choolakee,  (I  think  that 
was  her  name,)  Novatong's  youngest  and  fairest 
daughter.  This  young  lady,  in  spite  of  her  hideous 
Esquimaux  dress,  which  would  have  marred  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  brightest  angel  in  Paradise,  was  really 
a  fascinating  object ;  and  I,  having  had  similar  expe- 
riences of  my  own,  was  prepared  to  excuse  Hans  for 
being  completely  carried  away  by  the  impetuosity  of 
his  passion.  Indeed  it  appeared  to  me  to  be  a  very 
admirable  thing  for  so  much  amatory  heat  to  be  ex- 
hibited in  that  icy  region,  lying  beyond  the  78th  parallel 
of  North  latitude.  Hans  entrusted  me  with  the  secret 
of  his  love,  and  declared  his  intention  to  elope  from  the 
brig  at  the  first  opportunity,  thus  forfeiting  all  his 
chances  of  naval  preferment,  in  order  to  become  the 
happy  husband  of  the  irresistible  Choolakee.  I  neither 
commended  his  resolution  nor  attempted  to  dissuade 
him  from  it,  but  promised  to  keep  his  secret;  and,  to 
do  this  more  effectually,  it  was  agreed  that  there  should 
18 


J!( 


I 


,;i 


,1 

1 


i. 


s- 


m 


146 


OODraiY'S  NABRATIVl  Of  THl 


appear  to  be  some  animosity  between  us.  This  part 
of  our  plan  was  so  well  carried  out,  that  Dr.  Kane 
appears  to  have  become  apprehensive  that  I  would  do 
Hans  some  personal  injury.  I  think  the  Doctor  hints, 
somewhere  in  his  book,  that  he  was  afraid  that  I  would 
waylay  the  young  man  and  assassinate  him,  or  commit 
some  other  horrible  outrage.  Thus  it  seems  to  have 
been  my  peculiar  ill-luck  to  be  constantly  misconstrued 
by  my  captain.  The  termination  of  Hans  Christian's 
love  adventure  will  be  related  in  the  sequel,  as  it  has  a 
circumstantial  connection  with  my  narrative. 


it 


* 


OEINNILL   IXPLOBINO   IXPIDITION. 


>  ir 


•v< 


Wi 


147 


(.,  ,« 


I  ■  it  4 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


DR.  HATES  AND  THE  AUTHOR  CROSS  SMITH'S  SOUND-— 
TROUBLES  AND  DISASTERS — SUOOBSSFUL  EXPLORATIONS 

"  — HORRORS  OP  STARVATION — THE  AUTHOR'S  BOOTS 
AND  BREECHES  USED  FOR  FEEDING  DOQS — HARD  FARE 
—THE  GRAND  EXCURSION  OF  THE  SEASON — SICKNESS 
PREVAILS — DANGEROUS  ILLNESS  OF  DR.  KANE — BEARS 
STEAL  OUR  PROVISIONS — OUR  DESPERATE  CONDITION 
— ^WE  ARE  OBLIGED  TO  TURN  BACK — ^VARIOUS  AFFLIC- 
TIONS. 

— ■        ■  .  \     /  e 

'  The  greater  number  of  our  men  were  disabled  by  the 
late  disastrous  exploring  experiments.  Br.  Hayes  and 
I  were  almost  the  only  persons  on  board  of  the  Advance, 
who,  at  this  time,  (about  the  middle^of  May,)  enjoyed 
perfectly  good  health.  Dr.  Kane  wished  to  send  an 
expedition  across  the  Sound  to  examine  the  coast  north- 
ward of  Cape  Sabine.  This  attempt  had  been  made 
several  times  without  success,  owing  to  various  accidents 
or  want  of  energy  on  the  part  of  those  who  undertook 
the  task.  Dr.  Hayes  and  I,  finding  owrselves  in  very 
good  health  as  aforesaid,  cheerfully  agreed  to  make 
another  effort  to  carry  out  this  project,  the  chief  pur- 
pose of  which  was  to  determine  the  position  of  the  Cape, 


# 


!i* 


i» 


./' 


/' 


148 


>!     Q(»>111ST'8  NARRATIVB  of  THl' 


and  its  bearings  with  reference  to  the  newly  discovered 
coast-line  to  the  North  and  East.  We  had  a  dog-team 
well  trained,  and  a  good  strong  sledge ;  and  being  fur- 
nished with  necessary  provisions  and  equipments,  we 
commenced  our  journey  on  the  20th  day  of  May.  The 
passage  across  Smith's  Sound  was  extremely  difficult, 
almost  every  yard  of  the  way  presenting  some  formida- 
ble obstruction,  such  as  I  have  heretofore  spoken  of  im 
my  accounts  of  similar  expeditions,  but  we  succeeded 
at  last  in  accomplishing  our  object.  The  distance  in 
a  straight  line,  across  the  Sound,  is  not  more  than 
eighty  miles ;  but  we  extended  our  researches  for  two 
hundred  miles  along  the  coast,  and  thus  made  an  im- 
portant addition  to  the  chart  of  that  locality.  Two 
days  after  we  started,  Dr.  Hayes  was  seized  with  snow- 
blindness  and  required  considerable  nursing  and  attend- 
ance. Our  supply  of  provisions  was  calculated  to  serve 
us  but  for  ten  days  \  this  circumstance  and  the  illness  of 
Dr.  Hayes  necessarily  abbreviated  our  journey,  very 
much  to  my  regret,  as  I  felt  a  strong  inclination  to  go 
further.  Many  of  our  failures  in  these  traveling  ad- 
ventures were  owing  to  a  deficiency  of  supplies,  or  to  « 
some  error  or  oversight  in  making  preparations  for  the 
journeys.  I  have  very  little  doul^t  that,  if  our  outfit 
had  been  more  complete,  I  could  have  gone  beyond  the 
82d  parallel  (how  much  further  I  wilf  not  say,)  on  the 
occasion  to  which  I  now  refer.  We  exhausted  seven 
days'  provisions  before  we  commenced  our  return,  leaving 
not  half  enoiigh  for  our  backward  trip.  The  harness  of 
our  dogs  was  very  defective,  the  straps  breaking  con- 


el 

si 


*& 


% 


/  , 


GRINNELL  EXPLORINO  EXPEDITION. 


149 


tinually  and  thus  occasioning  much  trouble  and  delay. 
Besides,  one  of  our  dogs  had  the  vexatious  trick  of 
eating  his  own  harness.  In  fact,  the  animals  were  in  a 
starving  condition  during  the  latter  part  of  the  journey. 
When  our  stock  of  provisions  failed,  necessity  compel- 
ed  me  to  cut  up  my  seal-skin  boots  and  a  portion  of 
my  leather  trousers  also,  for  the  maintenance  of  the 
dogs.  Having  thus  denuded  my  lower  extremities  in  a 
measure,  the  exposure  occasioned  severe  pains  in  my 
limbs,  (rheumatic  pains,  perhaps,)  and  this  was  the  only 
sickness  I  experienced  during  the  whole  time  of  my 
sojournment  in  the  polar  regions.  On  our  way  back  to 
the  brig,  I  wore  nothing  on  my  legs  but  the  scanty 
remains  of  my  dog-eaten  trowsers  and  a  pair  of  seal- 
skin stockings.  But  all  this  sacrifice  of  my  wearing 
apparel  afforded  little  relief  to  the  ever-craving  appe- 
tites of  our  quadrupeds.  On  our  way  back,  they  were 
so  desperately  hungry  that  I  suspect  they  would  have 
devoured  Dr.  Hayes  and  myself,  if  the  thought  had 
once  occurred  to  them  that  we  might  be  used  as  articles 
of  diet.  My  traveling  companion  and  I  were  almost 
<  as  hungry  as  our  dogs.  We  lived  for  two  days  on  a 
cake  of  raw  chocolate  ;  and  when  this  was  consumed, 
we  made  one  meal  off  the  tops  of  Dr.  Hayes*  boots, 
which  we  cut  into  small  pieces  and  dipped  in  lamp  oil 
to  render  the  morsels  more  savory.  A  few  hours  after 
we  had  made  this  luxurious  repast  we  arrived  at  the 
brig,  from  which  we  had  been  absent  twelve  days. 
I  made  two  or  three  other  excursions,  (shorter  ones 

if- 

than  that  just  mentioned,)  with  various  members  of  our 
15* 


i 


': 


•'I 


150 


GODFRiT'S  KARRATIYB  OV  ,TH1 


company.  McGarj  and  I  started  with  a  dog-sledge 
and  team,  to  ascertain  if  our  provision  depots  were  all 
safe.  We  enoountered  a  heavy  snow-storm,  which 
blinded  us,  and  compelled  us  to  return  before  we  could 
execute  the  duty  assigned  to  us.  Snow-blindness  is 
one  of  the  great  inconveniences  to  which  arctic  travel- 
ers are  exposed.  Besides  the  total  deprivation  of  sight, 
which  is  always  one  effect  o(  the  disease,  it  is  extremely 
painful,  producing  a  sensation  like  that  which  might  be 
caused  by  piercing  the  eye-balls  with  needles  or  lancets. 
The  traveler  who  is  affected  with  thia  nialady  becomes 
as  helpless  as  any  other  blind  man,  and  requires  a 
leader.  MoGary  and  I,  being  both  stricken  at  once, 
and  having  nobody  to  guide  us,  were  obliged  to  trust 
to  the  instinct  of  the  dogs  to  conduct  us  back  to  the 
vessel.  Our  canine  conductors,  finding  themselves 
abandoned  to  their  own  discretion,  and  perceiving  that 
we  were  not  able  to  correct  their  errors,  followed  their 
own  inclination  in  returning.  When  nothing  allured 
them  out  of  the  way,  they  went  on  steadily  enough ; 
but,  being  at  all  times  more  intent  on  indulging  their 
appetites  than  any  thing  else,  they  often  went  aside  for 
the  purpose  of  hunting  seals.  These  amphibious  ani- 
mals often  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  ice,  but  always 
near  some  hole,  into  which  they  retreat  as  soon  as 
danger  approaches.  The  dogs  can  scent  the  seals  at 
the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  and,  if  they  are  not  restrained, 
they  immediately  start  6ff  iri  pursuit  of  their  prey,  the 
sledge  which  they  are  dragging  after  them  and  theii 


■^ 


# 


^, 


-*  * 


*" 


QBINNELL  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


151 


driver,  appearing,  at  such  J;imes,  to  be  altogether  for- 
gotten. 


UtOO-VlAll'— DBITBB  INOW-BLINOia 

The  8eal%  'which  are  always  very  much  on  the  alert, 
generally  plunge  into  the  hole  in  the  ice,  and  so  make 
their  escape,  but  sometimes  the  dogs  come  upon  them 
so  suddenly  that  one  of  them  is  caught  and  torn  to 
pieces  by  the  voracious  quadruped^.  Occasionally  a 
dog  bites  a  piece  out  of  a  seal  just  as  the  latter  is 
making  his  plunge.    *..■■        *       ^    •  . 

Soon  after  the  return  of  McGary  and  myself,  ano<;her 
party,  consisting  of  McGary,  Hickey,  Biley,  Stephen- 
son, and  Morton  started  on  a  northern  excursion,  yrith 


i  i 


162 


GODFREY'S  NAKOATiyE  OF  THE 


a  load  of  provisions,  which  .they  were  instructed  to  de- 
posit at  some  convenient  place,  for  future  use.  On  the 
following  day,  viz.  April  25th,  Dr.  Kane  and  I  fitted 
up  a  dog-sledge  and  started  on  the  same  track.  We 
overtook  our  comrades  on  the  open  ice,  near  Cape 
Frederick,  sixty-fivo  miles  from  the  brig.  Several  of 
the  party  had  been  stricken  with  suv^w-blindness.   While 


r 


▲  BEAB  VISrrS  A  TBNT 


they  were  sleeping  in  their  tent  on  the  preceding  night, 
a  bear  forced  his  way  into  the  tent  door,  and  startled 
the  sleepers  by  rubbing  his  nose  against  their  persons. 
Hickey  struck  him  on  the  nose  with  a  lidat-hook,  and 


ORINNELL  BXPLORINO  EXPEDITION. 


153 


1 


Bonsall  snatched  up  a  rifle  and  shot  him  dead  on  the 
spot.  They  had  all  made  themselves  sick  by  eating 
the  flesh  of  this  animal,  which  appears  to  have  been  too 
gross  for  their  delicate  organs  of  digestion. 

Dr.  Kane's  principal  purpose,  on  this  occasion,  was 
to  inspect  the  great  Humboldt  Glacier ;  and,  if  possible, 
to  reach  the  extreme  northern  point  of  Greenland,  sup- 
posing this  region  to  be  an  island.  He  set  out,  in  short, 
with  a  determination  to  find  an  open  sea  to  the  north 
of  the  Greenland  coast ;  and  as  he  did  not  quite  accom- 
plish this  object  at  that  time,  his  devoted  friend,  Mr. 
Morton,  afterward  did  it  for  him,  unless  we  may  sup- 
pose it  possible  that  Mr.  Morton  was  mistaken.  This 
journey,  like  every  preceding  one,  was  a  failure.  We 
came  within  five  miles  of  the  Humboldt  Glacier,  when 
nearly  all  of  our  men,  and  Dr.  Kane  himself,  lyecame 
infected  with  the  scurvy,  the  disease  being  accompanied 
by  unusual  and  alarming  symptoms.  It  was  a  prevail- 
ing opinion  among  us  that  the  Doctor  would  not  live 
long  enough  to  get  back  to  his  vessel.  To  make  our 
situation  still  more  distressing,  the  bears  had  made  an 
inroad  on  our  provision  depots,  several  of  which  were 
pretty  well  cleared  out  by  these  conscienceless  ma- 
rauders. In  this  state  of  things,  our  best  policy  was 
to  return  with  all  the  expedition  that  was  possible  for 
such  a  sickly  company  as  ours.  On  the  way  back,  our 
sledges  were  moving  hospitals,  being  laden  with  sick 
people ;  and  several  of  our  sick  men  were  obliged  to 
walk,  because  there  was  not  room  enough  for  their  ac- 
commodation in  the  vehicles.     We  had  dogs  enough  to 


I 


154 


GODFBET'S  NABBATIYE  OV'THB 


haul  one  sledge  only ;  a  team  of  men  was  therefore  re- 
quired to  drag  the  otL?r.  My  companions  regarded  me 
as  '^  a  whole  team ;"  but,  besides  having  a  dog's  duty 
to  perform,  I  was  compelled  to  nurse  the  sick,  cook  the 
victuals,  and  make  myself  generally  useful,  '*  because  I 
was  the  healthiest  man  of  the  party."  Health  is  a 
great  blessing  truly,  but  it  sometimes  has  its  disad- 
vantages. 


OBINNELL  EXPLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


155 


)  re- 
ime 
duty 
:  the 
ise  I 
is  a 
isad- 


CHAPTER    XVII. 1 

SEVERAL  TRAVELINa  PARTIES  SENT  OUT — THEIR  ILL 
SUCCESS — MORTON  AND  HANS  CHRISTIAN  TRAVEL 
NORTHWARD — T^EIR  FAMOUS  DISCOVERIES — A  SEPA- 
RATION OF  OUR  COMPANY — THE  AUTHOR,  WITH  SEVEN 
COMPANIONS,  PERMITTED  TO  LEAVE  THE  BRIG — THEY 
TRAVEL  SOUTHWARD — ARE  OVERTAKEN  BY  THE  WIN- 
TER— THEIR  UNPARALLELED  SUFFERINGS  FROM  COLD 
AND  FAMINE — THE  AUTHOR  VISITS  AN  ESQUIMAUX 
SETTLEMENT — THE  GENEROSITY  AND  BENEVOLENCE  OF 
THESE  <<  barbarians"— THEIR  HOUSES,  MODES  OF 
LIVING,  AO, 

For  ^bout  two  weeks  after  our  unsucoessful  attempt 
to  reach  the  Humboldt  Glacier,  the  serious  illness  of 
Dr.  Kane  prevented  him  from  undertaking  any  new 
enterprise.  As  soon  as  he  was  ./ell  enough  to  travel, 
he  made  two  unsuccessful  attempts  to  cross  the  Sound 
with  Esquimaux  guides. 

Early  in  June  two  traveling  parties  were  sent  out. 
One  of  these  parties,  under  the  direction  of  McGarry 
and  Bonsall,  came  to  the  foot  of  the  Humboldt  Glacier, 
which  is  a  perpendicular  wall  of  ice,  250  feet  high  and 
50  miles  long.    Finding  it  impossible  to  scale  this  stu- 


I 


.»^ 


156 


GODFRET^S  NARRATIVE  Off  THl 


k    ^ 


pendous  embankment,  or  to  proceed  any  further,  they 
returned  to  the  brig.  The  other  traveling  party  con- 
sisted of  two  persons  only,  viz.,  Mr.  Morton  and  Hans 
Christian.  They  reached  the  foot  of  the  glacier  on  the 
15th  day  of  June,  and  traveled  in  their  dog-sledge  on 
the  land-ice  of  the  Sound,  crossing  Peabody's  Bay,  and 
so  found  a  practicable  road  along  the  base  of  the  vast 
wall  of  ice  spoken  of  above.  They  proceeded,  accord- 
ing to  Morton's  statement,  in  a  direction  as  nearly 
northward  as  possible,  passing  along  the  edge  of  Ken- 
Heday  Channel,  which  extends  from  the  80th  to  the 
81st  parallel.  Here,  as  they  report,  the  ice  was  found 
broken  up  and  the  water  in  a  navigable  Condition. 
They  also  saw  "flocks  of  geese,  ducks,  and  dovekies," 
and  gulls  probably ;  and  Mr.  Morton— having  ascended 
a  berg  or  knob  of  ice  five  hundred  feet  high^-beheld 
'*  a  boundless  waste  of  water,  stretching  away  toward 
the  pole." 

If  this  account  given  by  Morton  is  correct,  it  is 
probable  that  the  pole  is  covered  by  water.  In  that 
case  it  might  be  difficult  for  n  navigator  to  put  his  foot 
on  the  *'  earth's  pivot,"  according  to  the  earnest  desire 
of  Captain  Ross,  unless  the  adventurer  should  happen 
to  have  more  faith  than  St.  Peter,  and  be  able  to  walk 
on  the  surface  of  the  sea.  I  sincerely  hope  that,  for 
the  benefit  of  future  explorers,  th'ere  may  be  some  bet- 
ter means  of  access  to  this  "  open  polar  sea"  than  by 
the  way  of  Smith's  Sound ;  otherwise  no  vessel  of  con- 
liderable  size  will  ever  be  able  to  reach  it. 

As  the  summer  drew  near  its  close,  it  became  evident 


K 


»er,  they 
rty  con- 
td  Hans 
r  on  the 
edge  on 
Jay,  and 
the  Tast 
accord- 
nearly 
Df  Ken- 
to  the 
ui  found 
edition. 


tt 


icended 
-beheld 
toward 

t,  it  is 
In  that 
iis  foot 
>  desire 
lap'pen 
o  walk 
at,  for 
le  bet- 
an  by 
f  con- 

vident 


OBINNELL  BXPLOBINQ  BXPEBITION. 


15T 


that  the  American  brig  Advanee  was  one  of  the  perma- 
nent fixtures  or  "  institutions"  of  the  ice-regions.  All 
hope  of  moving  her  had  been  pretty  nearly  abandoned, 
and  we  began  to  contemplate  the  sad  necessity  of  re- 
maining another  winter  in  this  gloomy  clime.  Among 
other  troubles  in  prospect  was  a  scarcity  of  provisions. 
In  order  to  increase  our  supplies  of  eatables,  Hans, 
Petersen,  and  I  were  almost  constantly  engaged  in 
hunting.  We  caught  or  shot  a  number  of  white  rab- 
bits, foxes  of  both  varieties,  white  and  blue,  and  a  few 
seals.  The  flesh  of  these  animals,  by  being  allowed  to 
freeze,  was  easily  preserved  for  future  use. 

Aboutithe  latter  part  of  August  all  hands  were  sum- 
moned on  deck,  and  Dr.  Kane,  in  a  formal  speech,  an* 
nounced  that  such  of  the  men  as  wished  to  leave  the 
brig  for  the  purpose  of  traveling  homeward,  had  full 
permission  to  do  so.  I  perceived  that  the  apprehended 
scarcity  of  provisions  led  to  this  generous  offer.  As  I 
had  never  enjoyed  much  comfort,  or  experienced  much 
kindness,  on  board  of  the  Advanee^  I  was  one  of  the 
first  to  embrace  this  opportunity  to  depart.  A  majority 
of  the  brig's  company,  vis.,  Sonntag,  Br.  Hayes,  Pe- 
tersen, Bonsall,  Blake,  Riley,  Whipple,  and  Stevenson^, 
came  to  the  same  conclusion.  Our  withdrawal  left  but 
eight  persons  on  board. 

Dr.  Kane  furnished  us  with  a  boat  placed  on  sledge- 
runners,  and  some  few  cooking  utensils  and  other  arti- 
cles which  eould  be  spared  from  the  brig.  We  bade 
our  comrades  who  stayed  behind  an  affectionate  adieu, 
and  started  on  the  28th  of  August — rather  too  late  in 
14 


I 


'"""^y** 


I 


\l 


158 


godfret's  narrative  of  the 


« 


:f 


the  season  for  such  an  undertaking.  Our  purpose  was 
to  proceed  by  boat  or  sledge  conveyance,  as  we  best 
could,  to  Upernavick,  the  most  northern  Danish  settle- 
ment, from  whence  we  expected  to  find  a  passage  in 
some  \oSsel  to  our  own  country.  We  traveled  south- 
ward on  the  ice  some  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
when  the  severity  of  the  weather  compelled  us  to  go  on 
shore  and  build  ourselves  a  hut.  This  habitation  was 
made  of  stones,  in  the  Esquimaux  style  of  architecture. 
We  covered  it,  according  to  our  best  ability,  with  oars 
and  sails ;  nevertheless,  it  was  a  rather  airy  place  of 
residence.  We  were  entirely  destitute  of  provisions, 
and  were  obliged  to  gather  the  lichen  or  rock«moss  and 
boil  it  for  our  maintenance,  although  the  taste  of  the 
herb  is  extremely  nauseating,  and  its  nature  is  decidedly 
nnwholesome.  We  hunted  every  day,  but  could  find 
no  game.  Meanwhile,  the  dark  season  was  coming  on 
very  rapidly,  and  our  situation  became  exceedingly  pre- 
carious. I  constructed  several  fox-traps,  and  although 
foxes  were  very  scarce  in  this  neighborhood  we  had  the 
good  fortune  to  catch  two  of  them.  As  all  of  our  ship 
biscuit  had  been  consumed,  we  had  nothing  of  the  bread 
kind  to  eat  with  our  fox-meat.  In  other  circumstances, 
we  might  have  thought  the  taste  of  this  meat  unpleasant, 
as  it  has  somewhat  of  a  fishy  flavor,  but  long  abstinence 
enabled  us  to  eat  it  with  a  good  relish.  We  called  our 
hut  the  **  Wanderers'  Home,"  and  we  made  a  strong 
effort  to  feel  comfortable  and  contented  in  our  domestic 
establishment,  designing  to  spend  the  winter  there,  if 
possible,  and  to  pursue  our  journey  early  in  the  spring. 


GBINNELL  BXPLOBINQ   EXPEDITION. 


159 


The  average  temperature  was  50°  below  zero ;  a  greater 
degree  of  cold  than  we  had  ever  experienced  in  the 
more  northern  latitude  where  the  brig  was  harbored. 

When  we  had  been  about  a  week  in  this  pleasant 
location,  we  were  visited  by  a  party  of  Esquimaux,  who 
were  migrating  to  Oape  York,  having  been  starved 
out  of  their  former  place  of  residence,  about  fifty  miles 
further  to  the  North.  Although  we  ourselves  were 
rather  ^'  hard  up"  for  something  to  eat,  we  gave  these 
poor  wanderers  a  morsel  of  food,  without  any  expecta- 
tion that  they  would  ever  have  it  in  their  power  to  re- 
ciprocate our  kindness.  But  a  good  deed,  even  in  this 
'^naughty  world,"  often  meets  with  its  reward  in  a  most 
unexpected  manner.  Several  days  after,  the  same 
party,  with  some  other  Esquimaux,  men,  women  and 
children,  making  altogether  eighteen  persons,  called 
on  us  again,  having  a  good  stock  of  provisions,  which 
they  offered  to  sell  us  at  our  own  valuation.  The  com- 
modities which  they  wished  to  dispose  of  consisted  of 
seal  and  walrus  meat,  eider-ducks,  loons,  and  other 
water-fowls. 

Before  we  began  to  trade,  we  had  a  grand  entertain- 
ment, our  Esquimaux  guests  supplying  the  viands  and 
we  cooking  them.  It  was  neither  *'  a  feast  of  reason" 
nor  "  a  flow  of  soul,"  for  we  all  ate  in  the  most  unrea- 
sonable manner,  and  thought  of  nothing  but  the  gratifi- 
cation of  our  corporal  appetites.  As  a  specimen  of  the 
way  in  which  we  used  up  the  eatables  at  this  banquet, 
I  will  mention  that  I  myself  consumed  two  eider-ducks, 
each  of  which  was  larger  than  any  wild  duck  ever  seen 


11^ 


;] 


I 


160 


oodfrit's  narrative  or  thi 


in  the  United  States.  Dr.  Kane,  when  we  were  about 
to  separate  ourselves  from  his  company,  had  supplied 
us  with  some  beads,  needles,  and  other  trifling  articles, 
suitable  for  trading  with  the  natives ;  and  this  was  sup- 
posed to  be  our  main  resource  for  supplying  ourselves 
with  provisions.  On  the  morning  after  the  arrival  of 
our  native  guests,  we  applied  ourselves  to  business  and 
obtained  a  good  stock  of  food  and  other  necessaries  on 
▼ery  easy  terms.  I  *' swapped"  an  old  jack-knife  with 
one  of  the  Esquimaux  gentlemen  for  a  pair  of  excellent 
bear-skin  boots,  each  of  us  believing  that  we  had  got 
the  best  of  the  bargain.  A  string  of  small  beads,  worth 
about  two  cents  in  the  United  States,  was  considered 
as  a  fair  price  for  a  pair  of  eider-ducks  or  a  good 
large  lump  of  walrus-meat.  When  our  visitors  were 
about  to  depart,  after  we  had  traded  to  our  mutual  sat- 
isfaction, they  invited  me  to  accompany  them  to  their 
settlement.  I  did  so  with  a  great  deal  of  pleasure,  as 
I  wished  to  examine  their  modes  of  life;  however, 
having  some  speculation  in  my  eyes,  I  took  with  me 
some  large  sewing  needles,  several  articles  of  cheap 
jewelry,  some  beads,  &c.,  which  I  designed  to  barter 
with  the  inhabitants  of  the  settlement  for  articles  of 
food  and  clothing.  Our  Esquimaux  friends  traveled  in 
dog-sledges,  six  of  which  they  had  with  them  and  a 
team  of  four  dogs  to  each  sled.  One  of  the  company, 
named  Oolootna,  offered  me  a  seat  in  his  vehicle,  and  we 
set  out  in  very  high  spirits,  although  the  thermometer 
was  48°  below  zero.  The  settlement  was  sixty  miles 
from  ouf  hut,  and  we  reached  it  in  about  eighteen 


ORINNELL  EXPLORTNQ   EXPEDITION. 


161 


hours.  On  the  way,  we  gave  chase  to  a  bear,  who  kept 
us  in  pursuit  of  him  for  six  hours,  and  then  escaped  by 
a  very  "cute  trick,"  diving  under  an  ice  floe  and  ap- 
pearing on  the  other  side,  entirely  beyond  our  reach. 
He  looked  back  at  us,  as  I  imagined,  with  a  comical  ex- 
pression of  countenance,  as  if  he  would  have  said,  *^  You 
couldn't  come  it  that  time,  my  boys."  He  was  a  fine 
fat  old  fellow  and  promised  to  afford  some  capital  eatiug. 
His  escape  was  a  source  of  bitter  disappoiritment  to  my 
Esquimaux  companions,  and  some  of  the  women  an(^ 
children  of  the  party  cried  very  heartily  when  tho  b<)ar 
gave  us  the  slip. 

When  we  ajrrived  at  the  settlement,  the  "  \>(i/bjirov;a 
people  showed  me  not  a  little  kindness,"  trc^ituig  me 
in  the  most  generous  and  hospitable  manner.  I  re- 
mained with  them  for  two  or  three  days,  in  oi  der  to 
cultivate  their  acquaintance  and  open  the  way  for  a 
regular  trade,  which  might  be  the  means  of  supplying 
our  party  with  food  during  the  winter.  The  habita- 
tions of  the  Esquimaux  savages  are  of  a  very  singular 
construction.  They  are  of  a  circular  shape  with  round 
dome-like  tops  ;  the  diameter  of  the  building  never  ex- 
ceeding eight  or  ten  feet.  The  height  of  the  dome,  in 
the  centre,  is  about  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the  hut. 
The  entrance  consists  of  a  low  arched-Fay,  two  feet  high 
and  six  feet  in  length.  The  openii  g  oi  this  archway 
is  just  large  enough  for  a  mhu  to  creep  through  on.  his 
hands  and  knees,  and  every  one  who  enters  must  do  so 
in  this  humiliating  manner.  Around  the  interior  of  the 
hut,  half  way  between  the  floor  and  the  ceiling,  there 
14* 


(iU 


fi 


162 


QODFRETS  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


is  a  gallery  made  of  stone,  like  all  the  othei'  parts  of 
the  building — ^leaving  in  the  centre  of  the  hut  an  area 
not  more  than  three  feet  in  diameter.  The  occupants 
of  the  dwelling  live  and  sleep  in  the  gallery,  where  their 
bedding,  consisting  of  moss  and  skins,  is  disposed.  The 
cooking  is  done  bj  a  lamp,  rudely  constructed  of  stone, 
which  stands  on  the  edge  of  the  platform  or  gallery 
whereon  the  family  sit  when  they  are  awake  and  lie 
when  they  are  asleep.  The  cooking  lamp  is  fed  with 
the  blubber  of  the  seal  or  walrus. 

As  the  hut  is  made  almost  air-tight,  having  no  aper- 
ture except  the  little  door,  partially  guarded  from  the 
cold  external  atmosphere  by  the  long  arch-way  described 
above,  the  interior  of  the*  dwelling  is  quite  warm. 
The  heat  of  the  cooking-lamp,  which  is  kept  always 
burning,  together  with  the  breath  and  vital  heat  of  the 
occupants,  is  sufficient  to  make  the  apartment  comfort- 
able; and  indeed  too  warm  for  persons  who  are  not 
accustomed  to  the  Esquimaux  modes  of  living. 

When  I  had  made  all  the  purchases  I  desired,  and 
signified  my  wish  to  return  to  my  companions,  my 
friend  Oolootna  conveyed  me  home  in  his  dog-sledge. 
My  comrades  were  glad  to  see  me,  and  (as  I  suspect,) 
were  still  better  pleased  to  see  the  additional  stock  of 
provisions  I  had  brought  with  me.  Some  of  them 
were  in  very  bad  health,  and  all  were,  more  or  less, 
afflicted  with  the  blue  devils.  They  suffered  consider- 
ably from  the  cold  likewise,  for  our  house  was  not  as 
comfortable  as  the  dwellings  of  the  Esquimaux.  My 
companions  were  very  much  divided  in  opinion  respect- 


ORINNELL  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


163 


ing  the  proper  course  to  be  pursued.  Some  were  for 
remaining  where  we  were  until  Spring,  and  then  pro- 
ceeding on  our  way  to  Upernavick ;  some  wished  to  pass 
the  winter  at  the  neighboring  Esquimaux  settlement ; 
and  some  were  desirous  of  returning  immediately  to  the 
brig.  The  last-mentioned  expedient  was  less  accepta- 
ble to  me  then  either  of  the  others.  I  considered  that 
we  had,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  been  dismissed  from 
our  vessel,  because  our  Commander  thought  that  his 
family  was  larger  than  he  could  well  maintain  ;  and  as 
we  had  received  our  portions,  like  so  many  prodigal 
sons,  and  been  set  adrift,  I  preferred  living  on  husks 
or  moss,  or  any  thing  else,  to  going  back  with  expres- 
sions of  contrition  and  making  a  pitiful  appeal  to  the 
benevolence  of  Dr.  Kane. 

A  few  weeks  had  passed  away,  and  we  had  not  yet 
resolved  what  to  do.  Our  stock  of  provisions  had 
nearly  run  out.  Several  of  u  *r  men  were  sick,  and 
nearly  all  were  haunted  by  gloomy  anticipations.  Karl 
Petersen  and  I  had  some  energy  and  resolution  left,  and 
we  had  health  and  strength  enough  to  attempt  something 
for  the  relief  of  our  companions.  We  walked  to  the  Esqui- 
maux village,  sixty  miles  over  the  ice,  the  thermometer 
fifty  degrees  below  ^ero.  Incessant  exercise  was  necessa- 
ry to  keep  us  from  frezing.  We  could  not  stop  a  moment 
for  rest  or  refreshment,  and  we  could  not  sleep  on  the  way 
as  we  had  no  tent  or  bedding.  We  finished  the  journey 
in  eighteen  hours,  traveling  without  intermision  ;  and 
this  was  extraordinary  speed,  considering  our  benumbed 


* 


164 


Godfrey's  narrative  op  the 


1 


i 


condition  and  the  disabling  effect  of  spare  diet.  Our 
only  food  on  the  way  consisted  of  a  little  dried  walrus- 
meat,  on  which  we  breakfasted,  dined  and  supped,  as 
we  walked.  When  we  arrived  at  the  settlement,  we 
staggered  like  drunkards,  being  completely  unnerved 
by  fatigue  and  exhaustion. 

After  all  our  labor  we  were  doomed  to  meet  with  a 
great  disappointment.  The  inhabitants  of  the  settle- 
ment, according  to  the  usual  improvident  habits  of  the 
Esquimaux,  had  exhausted  nearly  all  their  provisions 
by  continual  feasting,  and  they  were  now  almost,  as 
badly  provided  with  food  as  we  ourselves  were.  The 
young  men  of  the  village  were  absent  on  a  seal  and 
walrus-hunting  expedition ;  and  as  they  had  been  away 
longer  than  usual,  it  was  thought  that  they  had  met 
with  but  little  success.  Nevertheless,  the  benevolent 
savages  took  pity  ca  our  wretched  condition,  and  spared 
us  a  little  food  ftvom  their  scanty  stores.  As  the  prin- 
cipal men  of  the  village  were  absent  with  their  dog- 
sledges,  we  could  obtain  no  conveyance  back  to  our 
home,  and  were  obliged  to  return  on  foot  with  the  little 
meat  we  had  obtained,  after  resting  ourselves  for  a  few 
hours.  *  We  made  as  little  delay  as  possible,  for  those 
of  our  company  who  remained  at  the  hut  were  suffering 
for  want  of  victuals.  We  carried  the  small  stock  of 
walrus-meat  we  had  obtained  from  the  Esquimaux, 
■trapped  on  our  backs.  The  load  was  not  very  op- 
pressive, it  is  true,  but  it  added  somewhat  to  the  weari- 
Bomeness  of  our  journey.    AVhen  about  half-way  to  our 


m 


GBINNELL  SXPLORINO  XXPKDITION. 


165 


dwelling-place,  I  was  unluckj  enough  to  sprain  my 
ankle  while  attempting  to  leap  over  a  chasm  in  the  ice 
ten  feet  wide.  This  accident  ^dded  •^ery  much  to  m j 
sufferings  during  the  remainder  of  our  wl  Ik ;  and  my 
lameness  was  the  cause  of  considerable  delay,  prolong 
ing  the  journey  to  twenty-five  hours. 


I- 


i » 


166 


GODFREY'S  NABBATTVE  OP  THE 


I- 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THE  AUTHOR  AND  HIS  PARTY  ENDURE  ALL  THE  HORRORS 
OP  FAMINE — THEY  RESOLVE  TO  RETURN  TO  THE  BRIO 
— THE  author's  reluctance  TO  GO  BACK — HE  COM- 
PLIES WITH  THE  WISHES  OF  THE  MAJORITY — ANOTHER 
TROUBLliSOME  JOURNEY — THE  ESQUIMAUX  TRY  TO 
OUT-YANKEE  THE  YANKEES — THEY  MISS  THEIR  FIGURE 
— VIRTUES  OF  "  GODFREY'S  CORDIAL" — THE  AUTHOR'S 
SUCCESSFUL  STRATAGEM. 


:  i 


The  last  supply  of  provisions  obtained  by  Petersen 
and  I  was  consumed  within  two  or  three  days,  except 
about  fifteen  pounds  of  walrus-meat,  which,  although 
frozen,  was  in  an  advanced  stage  of  putrefaction.  The 
mention  of  this  circumstance  may  surprise  the  reader ; 
but  while  I  remained  in  the  polar  regions,  I  had  fre- 
quent proofs  of  the  fact,  that  extreme  cold  is  sometimes 
almost  as  conducive  as  extreme  heat  to  the  decomposi- 
tion of  animal  matter.  On  this  meat,  ofiensive  as  it 
was,  we  were  obliged  to  subsist  for  two  days.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  an  Esquimaux  hunter  stopped  at  our 
hut  with  his  dog-sledge.  As  there  was  no  hope  of  re- 
lief from  any  other  quarter,  my  companions  wished  to 
engage  this  Esquimaux  to  convey  one  or  two  of  our 
company  to  the  brig,  to  solicit  ..D'  Kane  for  a  barrel 


ORINNELL  EXFLORINa  EXPEDITION. 


161 


of  ship-biscuit,  or  something  else  which  might  be  tho 
means  of  sustaining  our  lives.  Petersen  and  I  were 
requested  to  go  on  this  mission ;  but  I  informed  my 
fellow-sufferers  that  I  could  not  on  any  account  become 
a  petitioner  to  Dr.  Kane..  I  had  reason  to  think  that 
he  was  prejudiced  against  me,  and  I  should  prefer 
starving  in  that  icy  wilderness  to  becoming  a  pensioner 
on  his  bounty.  I  told  them  that  I  was  willing  to  un- 
dertake any  other  journey,  or  to  attempt  any  thing 
else  for  their  relief,  even  if  the  attempt  required  the 
sacrifice  of  my  own  life,  but  they  must  find  some  other 
messenger  to  perform  the  errand  they  now  had  in  con- 
templation. After  some  debate,  it  was  determined  that 
Bonsall  and  Petersen  should  be  the  begging  embassa- 
dors to  Dr.  Kane.  The  Esquimaux,  who  undertook  to 
carry  them  in  his  sledge,  was  promised  a  reward  on  his 
arrival  at  the  vessel.  I  learned  afterward  that  the 
strength  of  the  dog-team  proved  inadequate  to  the  con- 
veyance of  the  three  men ;  and  at  the  end  of  the  first 
eighty  miles  the  animals  were  completely  worn  out,  so 
that  a  sort  of  "  rotation  in  office"*  became  necessary, 
the  dogs  being  placed  in  the  sledge  while  the  men 
hauled  it. 

In  this  unusual  style  of  traveling  they  proceeded 
fifty  miles  further,  when  they  fell  in  with  a  large  party 
of  Esquimaux  hunters,  and  after  some  conversation  it 
was  agreed  that  they  should  all  go  to  the  brig  together* 
The  hunters  had  sledge-room  enough  to  accommodate 
the  whole  party,  and  so  our  messengers  sped  much  bet- 
ter than  they  had  expected.     Bonsall  and  Petersen  did 


^^F 


i: 


! 


if 


163 


GODFBET'S  NABRATIYB  of  THl 


Dot  return ;  but  as  soon  as  thej  gave  Dr.  Kane  an  ac- 
count of  our  starving  condition,  that  gentleman  very 
promptly  dispatched  some  provisions  for  us  by  the  Es- 
quimaux hunters,  detaining  one  of  their  number  as  a 
'*  hostage"  for  the  safe  delivery  of  the  articles. 

In  the  meanwhile,  I  had  been  making  all  possible 
exertions  to  obtain  food  by  hunting,  trapping,  &c.,  in 
which  operations  my  remaining  companions  were  too 
sickly  or  feeble  to  give  me  any  assistance.  Four  or 
five  days  after  the  departure  of  the  messengers,  my 
comrades  informed  me  that  they  themselves  had  come 
to  the  determination  to  go  to  the  brig,  and  earnestly 
entreated  me  to  accompany  them.  I  consented,  be- 
cause I  saw  very  plainly  that  they  were  not  able  to 
take  care  of  themselves.  After  making  all  the  prepa- 
ration that  was  necessary  we  started ;  and,  oh  reader, 
how  shall  I  give  you  the  faintest  idea  of  the  tribulation 
I  experienced  on  the  way !  When  I  had  performed  the 
part  of  dry-nurse  for  ten  or  twelve  hours,  and  was 
almost  distracted  by  the  multiplicity  of  my  cares  and 
duties,  we  met  the  Esquimaux  hunters  who  had  been 
sent  from  the  vessel  with  some  provisions  for  our  use. 
They  had  five  sledges,  with  teams  of  six  dogs  each. 
Both  parties  came  to  a  halt ;  and  after  the  usual  salu- 
tations, arrangements  were  made  for  cooking  a  meah 
The  Doctor  had  sent  us  some  biscuit  and  salt  pork,  and 
we  soon  had  a  good  kettle  of  '*  scouse"  in  the  course 
of  preparation.  In  the  meanwhile,  we  tampered  with 
our  craving  appetites  by  nibbling  dry  biscuit.  As  soon 
as  the  repast  was  finished;  the  Esquimaux  divided  our 


ORINNELL  EXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 

I 


169 


company,  consisting  of  six  persons,  into  five  lots,  so 
that  four  of  the  sleds  should  carry  one  man  each,  and 
the  fifth  one  two.  As  soon  as  we  were  all  on  board, 
we  went  off  in  gallant  style,  and  put  sixty  miles  behind 
us  in  the  first  ten  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  we 
halted,  pitched  our  tents,  and  enjoyed  a  most  refresh- 
ing sleep,  as  the  gnawings  of  conscience  or  hunger  did 
not  interrupt  our  repose. 

The  next  day  our  Esquimaux  drivers  held  a  consulta- 
tion apart,  and  appeared  to  be  debating  some  subject 
of  importance,  in  their  own  estimation  at  least.  The 
conference  being  over,  they  approached  us  and  gave  us 
to  understand  that  four  of  them,  with  the  same*  number 
of  sledges,  would  be  obliged  to  visit  the  place  of  their 
abode  on  business  of  great  consequence.  Two  of  their 
men  and  one  sledge  would  remain  with  ns,  until  the 
other  members  of  their  party  should  return.  They 
would  also  leave  us  a  tent  and  every  thing  necessary 
for  our  comfort.  Though  very  much  vexed  at  this  de- 
tention, we  felt  that  we  had  no  right  to  object  to  the 
proposed  plans,  as  these  people  were  certainly  pri- 
vileged to  attend  to  their  own  affairs  before  ours. 
Soon  after,  four  of  the  hunters  drove  off  in  a  different 
direction  from  that  we  had  lately  been  traveling.  They 
had  scarcely  been  gone  an  hour,  before  the  two  remain- 
ing Esquimaux  announced  that  it  had  just  come  to 
their  recollection  that  they  would  be  obliged  to  go  too ; 
and  they  began  to  bitch  up  the  last  dog-team  for  that 
purpose.  I  new  became  suspicious  of  a  trick,  and  re- 
solved that  these  fellows  should  not  out-jockey  me. 
16 


lil 


K¥J 


iMJli 


j; 


no 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIYl:  OF  THS 


Happening  to  have  a  small  book  of  *^  Ethiopian  Melo- 
dies" in  my  pocket,  I  took  it  out  and  examined  a  page 
with  the  most  earnest  attention ;  then,  putting  on  a 
very  gloomy  aspect,  I  informed  the  two  hunters  that 
they  had  chosen  the  most  unlucky  day  in  the  whole 
year  for  this  new  journey.  **  After  we  have  slept  once 
more,"  said  I,  *'  the  danger  will  be  over,  and  you  can 
then  start  as  soon  as  you  please,  without  any  fear  of 
the  consequences."  Finding  that  I  had  made  some 
impression  on  their  superstitious  feelings,  I  endeavored 
to  touch  them  on  another  assailable  point,  by  promising 
them  a  capital  supper.  The  gluttonous  proclivities  of 
the  Es(inimaux  made  this  last  argument  a  clincher. 
Our  two  gentlemen  were  persuaded  to  pass  the  night 
with  us ;  and,  while  I  prepared  for  them  a  bountiful 
supper,  according  to  promise,  my  mind  was  occupied 
with  painful  reflections  on  the  new  embarrassments 
which  now  presented  themselves.  I  saw  very  plainly 
that  these  Esquimaux,  for  some  reason  or  other,  wished 
to  desert  us ;  and  it  was  equally  evident  that,  if  we 
should  be  abandoned  in  that  place,  the  consequences 
would  be  fatal  to  some  of  my  sick  companions.  I  could 
see  but  one  or  two  ways  of  extricating  ourselves  from 
the  difficulty.  I  did  not  doubt  our  ability  to  compel 
these  two  savages  to  convey  us  to  the  brig ;  but  know- 
ing these  people  to  be  unwarlike  and  cowardly  in  their 
disposition,  I  was  unwilling  to  take  advantage  of  these 
defects  of  character.  My  intercourse  with  the  native 
tribes  had  taught  me  that  all  kinds  of  trickery  with 
them   is   conudered   fair   and   honorable.     They  are 


a 
a 


#' 


OBINNELL  EXFLORINO  EXPEDITION. 


in 


always  ready  to  practice  a  ruse,  or  to  excuse  others  for 
the  same  propensity.  I  determined,  therefore,  to  com- 
bat them  with  their  own  weapons ;  but  nothing  but  the 
desperate  circumstances  in  which  I  was  placed  could 
have  induced  me  to  use  the  stratagem,  of  which  I  am 
about  to  give  an  account.  Convinced  that  it  was  an 
aflfair  of  life  or  death,  for  Dr.  Hayes  and  two  others  of 
my  party  appeared  to  be  almost  in  the  last  extremity, 
and  were  likely  to  die  for  want  of  medical  assistance,  I 
resolved  that  no  time  should  be  lost  in  the  conveyance 
of  these  sufferers  to  the  vessel,  where  alone  they  could 
meet  with  the  attentions  they  required.  I  endeavored 
to  touch  the  humane  feelings  of  the  two  Esquimaux,  by 
explaining  to  them  the  dangerous  situation  of  my  com- 
rades ;  but  these  representations  did  not  answer  the 
purpose;  it  was  plain  that  they  had  made  up  their 
minds  not  to  go  to  the  brig.  Their  obstinacy  in  this 
matter  was  unaccountable  to  me  at  that  time,  but  the 
mystery  was  cleared  up  afterward.  When  these 
hunters  and  their  associates  conveyed  Bonsall  and 
Petersen  to  the  brig,  as  I  have  previously  related.  Dr. 
:Kane  feasted  them  in  his  cabin,  and  they  embraced 
that  opportunity  to  steal  some  of  the  Doctor's  knives, 
forks,  spoons,  and  every  other  small  article  that  could 
possibly  be  carried  off  without  too  much  risk  of  detec- 
tion. They  had  likewise  'committed  another  piece  of 
knavery,  by  throwing  away  some  of  the  provisions 
which  they  had  engaged  to  carry  to  our  party  at 
'*  Wanderers'  Home,"  notwithstanding  they  had  left 
one  of  their  company  as  a  hostage  for  the  safe  delivery 


U'^  i 


It2 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  TtTE 


of  these  provisions. .  These  deeds  of  delinquency  made 
them  afraid  to  revisit  the  brig,  where  they  might  expect 
to  be  held  accountable  for  their  rascality. 
'  Finding  that  the  two  native  hunters  could  not  be 
persuaded  or  induced  to  help  us  on  our  way,  and  being 
now  satisfied  that  they  had  resolved  to  leave  us  on  the 
ice,  I  perceived  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  turn  the 
joke  on  themselves.  Among  other  trumpery  in  our 
baggage  department,  there  were  a  few  bottles  of  medi- 
cines. One  of  these  nostrums,  labeled  '*  Cfecyrey'a 
Cordial"  appeared  to  have  been  invented  by  some 
namesake  of  mine,  with  whom  I  cannot  claim  the  honor 
of  a  personal  acquaintance.  However,  the  physic  is 
considered  to  be  ^*  a  safe  and  pleasant  remedy  for  colic, 
griping  pains,  and  other  diseases  to  which  children  are 
liable."  I  had  known  it  to  be  given  to  peevish  infants, 
to  make  them  sleep,  and  its  virtue  as  an  opiate  was  the 
circumstance  that  chiefly  recommended  It  to  my  notice 
at  that  time.  Having  prepared  a  pot  of  "  scouse"  ex- 
pressly for  the  entertainment  of  our  faithful  Esquimaux 
carriers,  I  seasoned  the  mess  with  a  pretty  large  dose 
of  the  anodyne  mixture.  This  |)reparation  was  greedily 
swallowed  by  my  two  patients,  who  were  too  intent  on 
gratifying  their  own  appetites  to  observe  that  my  com- 
panions and  I  did  not  partake  of  the  same  dish.  After 
awhile,  perceiving  that  they  were  becoming  drowsy,  I 
advised  them  to  put  themselves  to  bed  in  the  tent. 
As  an  Esquimaux  is  always  willing  to  eat  or  sleep,  they 
readily  took  my  counsel,  and  were  soon  locked  up 
tightly  in  the  epibraoe  of  the  poppy-crowned  deity.    I 


OBINNELL  EXPLOBINQ  IXPEDITION. 


113 


)  ' 


then  deposited  in  the  tent  provisions  enough  to  serve 
them  for  two  or  three  days, — (which  was  as  much  as  I 
oould  spare,) — and  having  hitched  up  the  dog- team,  we 
.placed  our  invalids  in  the  sledge,  wrapped  them  up 
well  in  buffalo  skins  and  blankets,  and  started  off  at  full 
speed.  Hayes,  Sonntag,  and  Stevenson  occupied  the 
sledge ;  and  as  the  dogs  could  not  conveniently  drag  a 
heavier  load,  Blake^  Whipple,  and  I,  being  the  healthiest 
men  of  the  party,  ran  on  behind  and  assisted  the  dogs, 
by  pushing  against  the  back  of  the  sledge.  I  really 
am  not  casuist  enough  to  know  whether  my  conduct  in 
this  affair  was  justifiable  or  not.  It  was  certainly  an 
unjust  act  to  take  possession  of  a  sled  and  dog-team 
which  did  not  belong  to  us;  but  then  the  question 
arises,  would  it  not  have  been  a  greater  fault  to  allow 
our  sick  people  to  perish  on  the  ice  ?  I  was  placed 
between  the  horns  of  a  moral  dilemma,  so  that  it  was 
impossible  for  me  to  take  any  course  with  which  my 
conscience  would  have  been  perfectly  satisfied.  Some 
time  after  this  occurrence,  I  met  with  one  of  the  natives 
whom  I  had  tricked ;  he  gave  me  full  credit  for  my  in- 
genuity, and  was  so  excessively  complimentary,  as  to 
say  that  I  deserved  to  be  an  Esquimaux.  He  gave  me 
a  humorous  account  of  the  astonishment  of  himself  and 
his  comrade  when  they  awoke,  and  found  that  they  had 
been  outwitted  by  the  white  men ;  and  he  begged  me  to 
supply  him  with  some  of  the  **  sleepy  stuff,"  as  he 
thought  it  would  be  a  good  joke  to  try  its  effects  on 
some  of  his  countrymen. 
When  our  party  had  traveled,  in  the  manner  I  have 
15* 


III 


174 


OODinSTS  NARRATIVX  OF  THB 


described,  about  eigbt  hours,  we  came  to  an  Esquimaux 
settlement,  where  we  stopped  to  repose.  Here  I  met 
with  two  of  the  hunters  who  had  deserted  us  on  the 
preceding  day.  They  were  very  much  surprised  to  seQ 
us  at  that  place.  I  informed  them  that  we  had  bor- 
rowed the  sledge  and  dog-team  from  their  associates, 
who  were  waiting  at  the  tent  in  expectation  of  their 
arrival,  according  to  promise.  As  they  never  had  any 
intention  to  go  back,  and  knew  that  their  friends  did 
not  expect  them,  my  story  did  not  obtain  much  credit. 
They  appeared  to  be  apprehensive  that  we  had  done 
their  companions  some  mischief,  and  when  I  parted 
from  them,  they  were  about  to  start  for  the  place  where 
we  had  left  my  two  slumbering  patients.  I  sent  word 
to  the  victimized  hunters  that  whenever  it  suited  their 
convenience  to  come  to  the  brig,  their  sledge  and  dog- 
team  would  be  returned,  and  the  owners  should  be  suita- 
bly recompensed  for  the  use  of  them. 


e 

?:. 

n 

en 

B 
o 
o 

H 

'A 

> 
H 

O 

o 
« 

PC 
K 


'    <». 


:«i:/<'fi?*' 


:!i'i':i'K'''  ■!'' 


:  .!• 


I 


.  II' 


ki'. 


i«'i 


1 


.^ii 


QBINNELL  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


177 


>m 


V     ^       CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  WANDERERS  RETURN  TO  THE  BRIO — SOME  OF  I  HEM 
ARE  TAKEN  SICE — DR.  HAYES  HAS  HIS  TOES  CUT  OFF 
-STARVATION  ON  SHIPBOARD — PREVALENCE  OF  THE 
SCURVY — THE  MEN  DYING  FOR  WANT  OF  FRESH  PRO- 
VISIONS— SEVERAL  PARTIES  SENT  OUT  TO  PROCURE 
FOOD — THE  COLD  DRIVES  THEM  BACK — THE  AUTHOR'S 
SOLITARY  JOURNEY  OP  NINETY-FIVE  MILES — HIS  DAR- 
ING ENTERPRISE  SUCCEEDS — HE  OBTAINS  A  SUPPLY  OF 
FRESH  MEAT — MORE  OF  HANS  CHRISTIAN'S  LOVE  AF- 
FAIR. 

'  We  traveled  as  rapidly  as  the  strength  of  the  dogs 
would  permit,  timing  matters  so  as  to  stop  for  rest  at 
the  different  Esquimaux  settlements  on  the  way.  The 
natives  treated  us  with  uniform  kindness  at  the  several 
villages  where  we  halted ;  and  I  helieve  that  some  of 
our  invalids  would  have  died  on  the  way,  hut  for  the 
relief  afforded  them  by  the  hospitality  of  the  ^'  savages." 
We  reached  the  brig  on  the  12th  of  December,  having 
been  absent  more  than  three  months.  Famine,  disease, 
and  long  suffering  had  made  such  havoc  in  our  personal 
appearance  that  our  friends  on  board  could  scarcely 
recognize  us ;  certainly  a  more  ghastly  company  was 
never  seen  on  the  deck  of  an  hermaphrodite  brig.    The 


Ji 


Its 


GODFRET'S  NABBATIVE  of  THl 


sick  people  were  immediately  put  to  bed.  Some  of 
them  were  found  to  be  in  a  very  bad  condition.  Sonn- 
tag,  Blake,  and  Stevenson  were  quite  ill  for  several 
weeks ;  and  Dr.  Hayes  was  obliged  to  part  with  his 
toes,  as  his  feet  had  been  badly  frozen.  This  toeless 
condition,  by  the  way,  was  one  of  our  arctic  fashions, 
as  a  considerable  proportion  of  our  company  had  been 
subjected  to  that  kind  of  trimming ;  though,  (if  a  bad 
pun  may  be  excused,)  few  of  us  could  well  afford  to 
have  our  understandings  retrenched. 

We  found  that  those  of  our  men  who  had  remained 
on  board  had  suffered  rather  severely,  though  their  sit- 
uation exposed  them  to  much  less  hardship  than  our 
party  of  wanderers  had  sustained.  Our  second  winter 
in  the  polar  regions  was  m.re  calamitous  than  the  first. 
Of  course,  the  longer  we  remained  there  the  more  our 
stock  of  provisions  and  fuel  must  become  exhausted. 
The  commodities  we  had  brought  out  for  the  purpose 
of  trading  with  the  Esquimaux  were  nearly  exp^nded; 
the  consequence  was,  that  the  supplies  of  fresh  meat 
which  we  had  hitherto  obtained  from  the  natives  now 
became  more  scanty.  Latterly,  these  people  had  visited 
us  but  seldom,  as  they  never  leave  their  houses  in  the 
winter  except  in  cases  of  absolute  necessity.  The  want 
of  fresh  meat  caused  the  scurvy  to  prevail  among  us 
more  extensively  than  ever.  In  the  latter  part  of  De- 
cember nearly  all  of  our  men  were  sick ;  and  it  was 
very  perceptible  that  unless  they  could  have  the  benefit 
of  a  saltitary  change  of  diet,  the  death  of  some  of  them 
would  be  inevitable.     The  dogs  were  dying  in  great 


#    GBINNELL  EXPLOBINQ   EXPEDITION. 


179 


numbers — literally  starving  to  death.     In  this  contin- 
gency, Dr.  Kane  and  Petersen  started  in  a  dog-sledge 
for  the  nearest  Esquimaux  settlement,  called  Etah, 
with  the  hope  of  procuring  some  meat ;  but  the  severity 
of  the  cold  compelled  them  to  turn  back  before  they 
had  accomplished  theii*  purpose.     Several  other  parties 
were  sent  out  with  the  same  result.    At  la&t  Dr.  Kane 
dispatched  Hans  Christian  on  a  similar  mission,  having 
a  notion  that  the  hardihood  of  this  young  native  would 
enable  him  to  perform  the  task.  Hans  gave  me  an  expres- 
sive glance  when  he  took  his  departure,  and  I  judged 
then  that  he  did  not  intend  to  return.     I  mentioned 
in  a  former  part  of  this  narrative  that  he  had  entrusted 
me  with  the  secret  of  a  love  affair  in  which  he  was  en- 
gaged, and  I  suspected  that  he  was  now  about  to  settle 
down  as  a  married  man.    The  event  seemed  to  confirm 
my  suspicions,  for  he  remained  absent  for  more  than 
three  weeks. 

In  the  meanwhile,  the  state  of  affairs  on  board  be- 
came almost  desperate.  Several  of  our  men  appeared 
to  be  at  the  point  of  death ;  their  sufferings  were  most 
distressing;  and  all  this  misery  proceeded  from  the 
want  of  suitable  food ;  and  it  appeared  to  me  that,  with 
a  little  energetic  exertion,  this  necessary  article  might 
be  obtained.  As  I  was  in  good  health,  and  was  always 
willing  to  undertake  any  labor  for  the  good  of  our  littW 
community,  I  wondered  that  our  commander  did  not 
send  me  on  a  provision-hunting  expedition,  as  every 
other  healthy  man  on  board  had  been  dispatched  on 
this  errand.    The  reason  why  he  did  not  send  me  has 


I 


» 


1    'f'  f 

m 


;il«' 


180 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  07  THE    ^      # 


been  subsequently  explained  by. the  Commander  himself. 
He  was  *' afraid  that  I  might  meet  or  waylay  Hans 
Christian  on  the  route  and  murder  him  I"  Good  heavens ! 
how  could  Dr.  Kane  have  harbored  the  suspicion  that  it 
was  possible  for  me  to  perpetrate  such  a  crime  ?  Had 
he  ever  seen  any  thing  assasshi-like  in  my  conduct  ? 
When  the  reader  has  accompanied  me  through  this 
narrative,  he  may  come  to  the  conclusion  that  Dr. 
Kane  himself  was  quite  as  likely  to  commit  such  a  deed 
of  blood  as  William  Godfrey.  I  never  attempted  to 
shoot  a  man  on  a  slight  provocation,  and  without  any 
£;oIoring  of  law  or  justice;  nor  have  I  ever  shown  a 
disposition  to  assail  the  person  or  the  reputation  of  a 
man  whom  I  supposed  to  be  defensele*^.  Were  Dr. 
Kane  now  living,  I  should  speak  of  the  events  I  am 
about  to  record  in  a  manner  which  might  be  unpleasant 
to  the  feelings  of  his  enthusiastic  admirers ;  but  as  the 
man  who  was  my  enemy  without  a  cause  has  gone  to 
his  final  account,  I  shall  say  no  more  than  is  absolutely 
necessary  for  my  own  vindication. 

Among  other  unwarrantable  liberties  which  Dr. 
Kane  has  taken  with  my  name  and  character,  I  find 
the  following  mention  of  me  in  his  published  journal : 
<*  I  had  on  board  a  couple  of  men,  William  Godfrey  and 
John  Blake,  whose  former  history  I  would  like  to  know 
— bad  fellows  both  of  them,  but  daring,  energetic  and 
strong."  If  _^  Dr.  Kane  had  any  curiosity  to  know  my 
"  former  history"  he  might  have  been  gratified,  if  he 
had  merely  hinted  his  wishes  to  myself.  I  could  have 
told  him  a  tale,  not  of  crime  but  of  sorrow,  which  might 


■•SSi' 


>0      OBINNELL  EXPLOaiNa  EXPEDITION 


181 


have  disarmed  his  prejudices  and  ill-will.     As  the  name 
of  John  Blake  appears  above,  in  an  unfortunate  con- 
nection, I  must  do  him  the  justice  to  say,  that  I  know 
no  reason  why  he  deseryed  to  be  called  a  "  bad  fellow," 
more  than  any  other  person  on  board  of  the  brig  Ad- 
vance, except  that  it  was  his  misfortune,  as  well  as 
mine,  not  to  please  Br.  Kane.     He  was  no  hypocrite, 
no  sycophant,  he  was  not  slavishly  submissive  to  his 
superior,  he  would  swear  a  little  sometimes,  and  would 
occasionally  go  to  sleep  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the 
Doctor's  religious  exhortations ;  and  I  believe  that  was 
the  most  damnable  sin  that  the  recording  angel  ever 
set  duwn  to  his  account.    For  all  these  things  Blake 
did  penance,  and  is  therefore,  (according  to  the  Catho- 
lic doctrine,]  entitled  to  forgiveness ;  unless  it  should 
be  urged  that  his  penance  was  involuntary.     Once, 
when  he  complained  of  being  unwell,  and  showed  a  dis- 
inclination for  some  task  which  the  Doctor   imposed  on 
him,  our  **  mild  and  gentle"  Commander  struck  him  on 
the  head  with  a  handspike,  inflicting  a  wound  which 
placed  his  life  at  some  hazard.  -  .    ,:  ,-*  >-p 

To  show  how  apt  Dr.  Kane  was  to  misconstrue  a 
man's  character,  I  will  refer  to  the  glowingly  favorable 
account  he  has  given  of  that  '*  pious  youth,"  Hans 
Christian.  .This  sly  and  sedate  individual  had  the  au- 
dacity to  fall  in  love  without  his  Commander's  permis- 
sion, and  while  he  was  professing  the  mo^t  unbounded 
afi^ction  for  the  Doctor,  and  declaring  his  perfect  satis- 
faction with  his  situation  on  board  of  the  Advance,  he  was 
making  preparations  to  **  vamoose"  at  the  first  opportu- 


I  ^1 


'" 


1 1 


f 


H    I 


182 


GODFREY^S  NABBATTTl  07  TH^ 


nity.  I  have  confessed  that  he  made  me  acquainted  -with 
his  design ;  for  which  I  could  not  hlame  him,  as  his  term 
of  service  had  expired,  and  he  had  a  right  to  follow  his 
own  inclinations.  I  thought  so  at  least,  and  I  did  not 
choose  to  become  an  informer. 

It  was  mentioned  above  that  Hans  had  been  sent  to 
the  settlement  of  Etah  for  provisions.  He  had  been 
absent  several  weeks,  and  but  one  person  on  board 
could  guess  at  the  cause  of  his  detention.  Meanwhile 
the  sickness  and  distress  on  board  increased  daily, 
until  I  could  bear  the  sight  of  my  comrades'  misery  no 
longer.  As  I  had  once  been  dismissed  from  the  brig, 
and  had  never  entered  into  any  new  contract  with  the 
Gommanclci',  I  considered  myself  under  no  obligation 
to  wait  for  the  orders  which  I  saw  plainly  that  he  did 
not  intend  to  give.  Believing  that  it  was  in  my  power 
to  supply  my  companions  with  the  means  of  health  and 
comfort,  I  resolved  to  start  forthwith  for  the  Esqui- 
maux village.  I  did  not  ask  Dr.  Kane's  permission, 
for  several  reasons.  1.  I  thought  that  such  an  appli- 
cation  to  him  would  be  an  acknowledgment  of  his  au- 
thority to  control  my  movements.  2.  I  had  reason  to 
believe  that  he  would  not  give  his  consent.  8.  He 
might  forbid  me  to  go ;  and  I  judged  that  if  it  were  a 
fault  for  me  to  go  Without  orders,  it  would  be  a  s'ill 
greater  fault  to  go  against  orders.  r. 

Without  making  any  communication  to  Dr.  Kane  on 
the  subject,  I  started  on  foot,  about  the  latter  part  'of 
February,  1854,  and  walked  ninety-five  miles  over  the 
ice  to  the  Esquimaux  village  called  Etah.    Several  of 


r 


ORINNELL  EXFLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


183 


our  company,  including  Dr.  Kane  himself,  had  at  differ- 
ent times,  attempted  to  make  this  journey  in  dog- 
sledges,  but  were  driven  back  by  the  severity  of  the 
cold.  I  traveled  the  whole  distance  on  foot,  without 
pausT'^g  to  rest  but  once,  and  with  nothing  to  eat  during 
the  whole  walk  except  two  hard  biscuits.  The  reader 
will  observe  that  I  was  obliged  to  keep  in  constant 
motion  to  avoid  freezing,  as  I  had  no  blanket  or 
buffalo-skin  to  wrap  myself  in  if  I  felt  disposed  to  sleep. 
I  had  4he  ill-luck  to  encounter  a  severe  snow-storm 
when  about  half-way,  and  I  took  shelter  under  the  lee 
of  an  ice-hill,  where  I  remained  for  two  hours,  at  the 
great  risk  of  my  life ;  for  had  I  fallen  asleep  I  might 
have  awaked  in  heaven.  Had  I  kept  on  while  the  snow 
was  falling  rapidly,  i.  would  probably  have  been  struck 
with  snow-blindness;  in  that  case  I  should  have  lost 
my  way,  having  no  companion  to  guide  me,  and  I  must 
have  perished.  Traveling  alone  in  these  regions  is  so 
very  dangerous,  that  unless  a  man  knows  well  what  he 
can  endure,  he  should  never  undertake  it.  I  made 
this  journey  in  thirty  hours. 

On  my  arrival  at  Etah,  I  found  our  truant,  Hans 
Christian,  domesticated  in  the  hut  of  his  intended 
father-in-law.  Ho  excused  himself  for  not  coming 
back  with  the  sledge  and  provisions,  by  stating  that  he 
had  been  very  sick.  I  judged  that  he  had  merely  been 
love-sick  ;  but  knowing  how  to  excuse  a  lover's  foibles, 
I  did  not  reproach  him.  Kalutunah,  Shangheu  and 
some  other  distinguished  citiziens  of  Etab>  prepared  a 
rich  banquet  of  seal-meat  in  honor  of  my  jirrival,  and 


184 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


they  appeared  to  be  much  grieved  when  tnej  under- 
stood that  I  could  make  but  a  short  stay.  When  I 
made  them  acquainted  with  the  destitution  of  my  com- 
panions on  shipboard)  they  made  a  contribution  of 
seal  and  walrus-flesh,  amounting  to  about  450  pounds, 
for  which  I  was  unable  to  o£fer  them  any  recompense, 
and  none  was  demanded.  After  resting  myself  for 
four  hours,  I  took  the  sledge  and  dog-team  which. Hans 
had  brought' to  the  settlement  with  him,  and  having 
put  the  provisions  which  had  been  given  me  on  board, 
I  took  leave  of  my  friends  and  started  on  my  return. 
Before  I  left,  however,  I  advised  Hans  Christian  to 
come  back  and  stay  with  us  a  little  while  longer,  as  I 
thought  it  probably  that  the  Expedition  would  proceed 
homeward  in  the  Spring  ;  and  in  that  case,  Hans  would 
be  honorably  dismissed  from  the  service,  as  he  would 
not  be  expected  to  leave  his  native  country.  In  com- 
pliance with  my  advice,  he  promised  to  return  to  the 
brig  as  soon  as  an  opportunity  offered. 


QRINNELL  EXPLORINQ   EXPEDITION. 


185 


•ir\'   r    '*' 


,i»' 


CHAPTER    XX. 


U^>\h    '    ■   .       i   'f  it-- 


THE  AUTHOR  RETURNS  TO  THE  BRIO  WITH  A  LOAD  OP 
FRESH  MEAT — HIS  WARM  RECEPTION — HE  BECOMES  A 
TARGET  FOR  PISTOL  AND  RIFLE  PRACTICE — REFUSES 
TO  CdtfE  ON  BOARD — DR.  KANE  AND  BONSALL  TRY 
TO  COMPEL  HIM — HE  TREATS  THE  DOCTOR  DISRE- 
SPECTFULLY AND  RETIRES  UNDER  A  GALLINQ  FIRE — 
HIS  DESPERATE  JOURNEY  BACK  TO  ETAH — HE  IS 
OVERPOWERED  BY  THE  COLD,  AND  SINKS  DOWN  IN  A 
SNOW-DRIFT — HIS  PROVIDENTIAL   ESCAPE. 

As  my  dogs  were  fresh  and  vigorous,  after  their  long 
rest  at  the  settlement,  they  traveled  very  rapidly.  As 
my  business  was  urgent,  I  stopped  but  two  or  three 
times  on  the  way,  and  then  only  long  enough  to  feed 
the  animals  and  give  them  a  little  rest.  I  felt  some 
doubts  arising  as  to  the  reception  I  should  meet  with 
when  I  arrived  at  the  vessel,  but  I  hoped  that  my  suc- 
cess in  procuring  food  for  the  starving  people  would  be 
a  sufficient  apology  for  my  unauthorized  absence.  I 
made  up  mind,  however,  not  to  go  on  board  until  I  was 
assured  of  meeting  with  friendly  treatment.  When 
about  fifty  yards  from  the  vessel,  I  stopped  and  hailed 
with  the  customary,  "  Ship  ahoy !"  Bonsall  appeared 
at  the  side,  and  I  requested  him  to  call  up  Dr.  Kano. 
16* 


i 


1 


'^ 


186 


GODFREY'S  NABRATIVX  OF  THB 


. 


( \ 


h !  3 

r 


I    i 


The  commander  soon  presented  himself,  and  I  accosted 
him  as  nearly  as  I  can  remember  with  the  following 
words :  **  Dr.  Kane,  I  have  brought  some  fresh  provi- 
sions for  the  use  of  my  suffering  companions.  I  am 
about  to  return  for  some  more,  and  I  hope  you  will 
send  some  of  your  men  to  take  these  on  board."  He 
did  not  answer  me  for  several  minutes,  but  appeared  to 
be  reflecting  what  he  should  do.  At  length  he  said, 
**  William,  you  had  better  come  on  board."  I  replied, 
*^  That  is  unnecessary.  Dr.  Kane ;  here  is  the  meat ; 
will  you  be  kind  enough  to  send  some  of  your  people  for 
it  ?"  He  then  said,  in  a  peremptory  tone,  "  I  tell  you, 
you  must  come  on  board."  To  this  I  promptly  answered, 
"  I  will  not."  « If  you  do  not,"  said  he,  « I  will  shoot 
you !"  During  this  conversation.  Dr.  Kane  had  de- 
scended from  the  vessel's  side  to  the  ice  and  approached 
me.  I  met  him  half  way,  and  when  he  spoke  of  shoot- 
ing me,  we  were  scarcely  two  yards  apart.  He  put  his ' 
hand  into  his  pocket,  as  if  to  draw  out  a  pistol.  **  Dr. 
Kane,"  said  I,  "  you  cannot  frighten  me  in  this  way, 
and  I  thought  that  you  knew  me  too  well  to  make  the 
attempt.  Hans  was  sick  and  not  able  to  come  with 
the  provisions ;  I  have  brought  them,  and  ask  you  to 
apply  them  to  the  relief  of  your  starving  crew.  Is  this 
an  offense  which  deserves  capital  punishment?"  He 
replied,  "I  do  not  punish  you  for  bringing  the  provi- 
sions, but  for  leaving  your  vessel  without  permission." 
Said  I :  '^  1  have  been  discharged  from  the  brig,  and 
am  no  longer  under  your  command;  but  had  you 
treated  me  in  a  proper,  manner,  I  would  have  remained 


QRINNELL  EXPLORING   EXFEDITI(»N. 


187 


•with  you  as  long  as  my  services  were  required."  To 
this  he  answered,  *^  If  you  will  not  come  on  board, 
come  nearer  the  side,  while  I  try  to  convince  you  thai 
you  are  under  a  mistake." 

I  complied  with  this  request,  and,  as  soon  as  we  came 
near  the  companion-way,  the  Doctor  called  for  Bonsall, 
who  immediately  came  down  on  the  ice.  The  Doctor 
then  repeated,  **  Tou  miMt  go  on  board."  Said  I : 
**  If  yoU  choose  to  murder  me,  you  may ;  but  go  on 
board  I  will  not."  Dr.  Kane  then  drew  a  pistol  and 
gave  it  to  Bonsall,  directing  him  to  shoot  me  if  I  at- 
tempted to  go  away.  The  Doctor  then  ascended  the 
companion-ladder,  and  went  on  board.  I  turned  to 
Bonsall  and  suid,  *'  Comrade,  do  you  intend  to  shoot 
me?"  He  answered,  "  I  will  shoot  you,  if  you  offer  to 
leave  the  side  of  the  brig."  "Then,"  said  I,  "you 
must  shoot, for  I  am  going  this  moment;"  and  I  suited 
the  action  to  the  word,  walking  very  deliberately  toward 
my  sledge.  Bonsall  presented  his  pistol  and  pulled  the 
trigger,  but  the  cap  exploded  without  communicating 
with  the  charge.  Dr.  Kane  now  appeared  on  deck, 
and  seeing  me  in  the  act  of  walking  off,  he  snatched  a 
rifle  from  the  gun-stand,  for  the  purpose  of  shooting 
me,  as  he  fully  admits  in  his  journal ;  but,  owing  to 
his  haste  in  handling  the  weapon,  it  went  off  before  he 
could  bring  it  to  bear.  He  caught  up  another  rifle, 
cocked  it,  took  deliberate  aim,  and  fired.  The  bullet 
whistled  as  it  passed  my  head;  but  God,  being  more 
merciful  than  this  amiable  and  saintly  naval  officer, 
protected  me  from  harm.     I  then  bowed  to  the  Doctor, 


-.^^ 


^ 


^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


US 


Uii    1 2.2 
2.0 


^1^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRIET 

WIBSTH.N.Y.  MStO 

(71«)t72-4S03 


188 


GODFREY'S  NABBATIYE  OF  l^HB 


l>  f 


^f 


in  acknowledgment  of  his  intended  kindness,  and  ad- 
vised him  to  go  below  and  compose  himself.  "  When 
your  nerves  are  steadier,"  said  I,  "perhaps  you  may 
shoot  with  more  effect."  He  stood  gazing  at  me  as  if 
astonished  at  my  audacity.  I  walked  a  few  paces 
further,  and  then  turned  and  addressed  him  again: 
"  Dr.  Kane,  as  you  will  not  order  your  men  to  unload 
the  sledge,  I  shall  have  to  go  back  without  it.  But  n^ 
matter ;  I  have  walked  to  Etah  once,  and  I  can  do  so 
again.  I  shall  borrow  a  sledge  there,  and  return  with 
another  load  of  meat.  In  the  mean  time,  you  can 
practice  with  the  rifle  until  I  come  back  and  offer  you 
a  chance  for  another  shot." 

Then,  leaving  the  sledge,  with  its  load,  on  the  ice,  I 
bowed  again  to  the  Doctor  and  departed.  My  former 
journey  on  foot  to  Etah  was  one  of  unexampled  hard- 
ship and  danger,  but  the  repetition  of  that  journey,  at 
a  time  when  I  was  already  exhausted  with  fatigue,  was 
a  desperate  undertaking.  I  expected  to  die  on  the 
way ;  but  I  preferred  this  alternative  to  making  that 
submission  which  my  late  Commander  required.  I  felt 
revengeful  enough  against  Dr.  Kane  to  wish  that  he 
had  killed  me,  so  that  he  might  experience  the  pangs 
of  remorse.  When  I  had  plodded  on  my  weary  way 
for  several  hours,  the  thought  suddenly  occurred,  to  me 
that  I  was  without  a  morsel  of  food,  and  that  it  would 
be  impossible  for  me  to  obtain  any  before  I  came  to 
Etah.  "But  that  matters  little,  (I  Bolilo({uized,)  it 
b  not  likely  that  I  shall  die  of  hunger" 

I  made  this  journey^  at  the  coldest  and  darkest  period 


of 

at 
sti 
me 


ORINNELL  EXPLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


189 


of  the  arctic  winter.  The  temperature  must  haVe*heen 
at  least  fifty  degrees  helow  zero.  My  limhs  hecame 
stiffer  every  moment,  and  a  drowsy  feeling  crept  over 
me  in  spite  of  every  effort  to  resist  it.  Often  did  I 
feel  strongly  tempted  to  lie  down, 

'*  And  mth.  one  dying  glance  upbraid  the  sky  ;'* 

hut  hotter  feelings  prevailed;  and  I  looked  up  to 
Heaven  with  affectionate  confidence,  rememhering  tha^ 
man  alone  was  my  enemy.  I  felt,  however,  that  the 
catastrophe  was  approaching.  My  physical  energies 
had  been  tried  to  their  utmost  powers  of  endurance, 
and  they  failed  at  last.  I  felt  an  oppressive  weight  on 
my  brain ;  my  limbs  were  immovable ;  I  tottered  and 
sank  into  a  deep  snow-drift.  Then  I  recognized  the 
certainty  of  my  fate,  recommended  myself  to  Divine 
mercy,  and  became  insensible. 

But  a  few  minutes  could  have  elapsed,  I  think,  be- 
fore I  recovered  my  senses.  I  felt  no  pain — no  un- 
pleasant sensation  of  any  kind — but  was  extremely 
drowsy;  and  although  quite  conjcious  that  sleep  and 
death,  at  that  time,  were  one  and  the  same  thing,  that 
thought  would  not  have  prevented  me  from  indulging 
my  somnolent  inclination.  In  such  circumstances  sleep 
is  so  fascinating  and  attractive,  that  the  gloomy  aspect 
of  his  "  half-brother"  ceases  to  be  terrible.  A  touch 
of  the  ice-king's  sceptre  then  becomes  as  potent  and 
irresistible  as  the  somniferous  influences  of  Prospero's 
wand.  But,  while  my  physical  powers  succumbed  to 
the  antagonism  of  natural  causes,  my  spirit  resisted. 


I 


t 


! 


190 


Godfrey's  narrative  of  t&b 


and  prompted  me  to  attempt  one  more  struggle  for  my 
life.  I  felt  that  it  was  unmanly  to  be  victimized  by 
any  earthly  power,  without  resisting  to  the  last  ex 
tremity.  With  a  desperate  effort  I  arc>>j  to  my  feet, 
and  gave  myself  a  severe  buffet  in  the  face,  which  ef- 
fectually awakened  me.  In  fact,  the  pain  of  the  bruise 
kept  me  wide  awake  for  three  hours  afterward.  Strange 
as  it  may  seem,  when  I  again  began  to  walk  I  found 
myself  much  refreshed.  I  judged  that  while  my  senses 
were  absent  I  had  enjoyed  the  benefit  of  a  short  sleep. 
I  had,  on  several  former  occasions,  observed  the  wonder- 
fully renovating  effect  of  a  very  short  slumber,  when 
arctic  wayfarers  appear  to  be  completely  overcome  by 
cold  and  fatigue.  One  instance  occurs  to  my  remem- 
brance. When  the  rescue  party,  mentioned  in  a  former 
chapter,  were  returning  to  the  brig,  and  the  men  seemed 
to  be  entirely  worn  out  by  toil  and  hardship,  each  was 
allowed  to  sleep  for  two  minutes  while  sitting  on  the 
side  of  the  sledge.  They  were  aroused  in  time  to  pre- 
vent fatal  consequences;  but  this  sleep  of  only  two 
minutes  duration  appeared  to  restore  all  their  animation 
and  vigor. 

My  falling  into  the  deep  snow-drift  (as  mentioned 
above,)  was  a  providential  circumstance,  as  a  man  is 
much  less  likely  to  freeze  in  a  pile  of  snow  than  on  the 
naked  ice.  After  I  had  recovered  my  power  of  loco- 
motion, I  struggled  onward  with  some  degree  of  speed 
for  the  first  twenty  miles,  but  afterward  with  3  slow  and 
irregular  pace,  like  the  movements  of  a  somnambulist. 
X  have  no  recollection  of  any  thing  that  occurred  during 


the 

abU 

at  a 

in  t 

quii 

sett 

my 

any 

one 

min 

ten 

on 

eve 


OBINNELL  EXFLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


191 


the  last  forty  miles  of  mj  journey,  and  I  am  totally  un- 
able to  comprehend  how  it  was  possible  for  me  to  travel 
at  all.  It  is  a  still  greater  mystery  how  I  could  keep 
in  the  right  course.  I  learned  afterward  from  the  Es- 
quimaux of  Etah,  that  they  saw  me  approaching  their 
settlement,  and  ran  out  to  meet  me.  They  found  that 
my  eyes  were  closed,  and  that  I  was  unable  to  answer 
any  questions.  The  charitable  natives  took  me  into 
one  of  their  huts,  chafed  my  half-frozen  limbs,  and  ad- 
ministered to  my  necessities  with  the  most  anxious  at- 
tention. I  slept  fifteen  hours  without  intermission,  and, 
on  awaking,  found  myself  as  well  and  as  vigorous  as 
ever. 


\ 


-ie-'4    '-  '     ■  if  ■'    ''•'  ''■'■ 


1  ■'.■.  --S«s.. 


Vi';^e 


■'' ■'  '.-aI^    ''"z  :.^^ 


■^-i- 


■S 


111 


1 
I 


192 


OODFREY'S  NARBATIYl  OV  THS 


'* 


t 


?ii 


m 


CHAPTER   XXI. 

Hi 

BANS  OHRISTIAN  PROVES  THAT  FEAR  CAN  MAKE  A  MATH 
SICK  AS  WELL  AS  LOVE — GODFREY  CONTINUES  TO 
SUPPLY  THE  brig's  COMPANY  WITH  PROVISIONS — DR« 

.  KANE  SENDS  ANOTHER  ORDER  FOR  HIM  TO  COME  ON 
BOARD — HE  DISOBEYS — THE  DOCTOR  COMBS  AFTER 
HIM — ^AN    EXCITING   DIALOGUE   BETWEEN   KANE    AND 

• 

GODFREY— WHEN  THREATS  FAIL,  GODFREY  YIELDS  TO 
PERSUASION — HE  RETURNS  TO  THE  BRIG,  AND  MEETS 
WITH  A  CORDIAL  RECEPTION  FROM  HIS  COMRADES. 

Hans  Christian  still  remained  at  Etah.  When  I 
gave  him  an  account  of  my  last  interview  with  Dr. 
Kane,  he  was  very  much  alarmed  lest  the  commander 
should' have  him  arrested  and  punished  as  a  deserter. 
My  story  first  made  him  aware  of  the  great  fault  he  had 
committed  hy  absenting  himself  from  the  brig  without 
leave.  His  mind  was  so  much  exercised  by  the  dread 
of  Dr.  Kane's  resentment,  that  he  became  sick  in 
reality,  and  I  was  obliged  to  nurse  him  for  two  or  three 
dayS|,  I  inspired  him  with  fresh  oourag-j  by  assur- 
ing him  that  all  would  be  well  enough  if  he  should  re- 
turn to  his  duty^  which  he  promis^  to  do.  As  soon  as 
he  was  well  enough  to  be  out,  he  Bnd  I  began  to  hunt, 
in  order  to  raise  another  supply  of  provisions  for  the 


ff 


» 

O 
X 

H 


\, 


I 


^ii 


ji 


4 


'm 


GRINNELL  EXPLOBINO  EXPEDITION. 


195 


people  on  board  of  the  Advancef  as  I  did  not  wish  to 
exact  too  much  from  the  charity  of  the  Esquimaux ; 
in  fact,  they  had  already  given  us  as  much  meat  as  they 
could  easily  spare.  When  our  hunting  had  furnished 
us  with  a  considerable  amount  of  provisions,  consisting 
of  arctic  rabbits,  foxes,  and  seal  and  walrus-flesh,  I  bor- 
rowed a  sledge  from  Kalnuch,  (one  of  the  men  of  Etah,) 
and  sent  Hans  with  a  good  load  of  eatables  to  the  brig. 
I  sent  him,  instead  of  going  myself,  in  order  to  give 
him  an  opportunity  to  make  his  peace  with  the  Doctor* 
As  Mr.  Christian  was  a  perfect  adept  in  the  %rt  of  ' 
blarney,  he  soon  succeeded  in  re-establishing  himself 
in  the  good  graces  of  the  Commander. 

A  week  after  the  departure  of  Hans,  he  returned 
with  the  borrowed  sledge,  and  brought  a  verbal  man- 
date from  Dr.  Kane,  requiring  me  to  come  to  the  vessel 
without  delay.  Of  course  I  paid  no  attention  to  this 
summons.  Soon  after  Hans  returned,  I  borrowed  a  4 
sledge  and  dog-team  from*  one  of  my  Esquimaux  friends 
named  Metek,  and  drove  to  another  settlement  eighty- 
five  miles  from  Etah,  where  I  negotiated  for  a  load  of 
provisions;  and  on  my  return  to  Etah,  I  sent  Hans 
again  to  the  ship  with  these  new  supplies.  On  this 
trip  Hans  was  accompanied  by  Metek.  In  the  mean- 
while I  remained  at  Etah,  living  with  the  Esquimaux, 
and  adapting  myself  as  much  as  possible  to  their  habits 
and  customs.  Our  usual  food  was  dried  walrus-meat 
and  blubber.  I  made  myself  useful  to  my  kind  friends 
of  this  settlement,  hunting  with  them,  and  assisting 
them  in  their  various  domestic  occupations.     Among 


^fy. 


196 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


the  ladies  I  was  a  great  favorite ;  they  would  give  me 
one  of  the  strongest  expressions  of  their  regard,  by 
biting  off  pieces  of  raw  meat  and  presenting  them  to 
me  from  their  own  mouths.  Such  delicate  attentions 
flattered  me,  of  course ;  but  all  the  afifectionate  treat- 
ment I  met  with  did  not  quite  reconcile  me  to  my  pre- 
sent mode  of  life.  I  felt  home-sick ;  and  several  times 
I  had  almost  resolved  to  start  off  on  foot  for  Uper- 
navick,  from  whence  I  might  obtain  a  passage  to  my 
own  country.  I  had  no  books  with  me,  and  nothing  to 
relievi  the  monotony  of  my  existence  except  smoking  a 
pipe.  I  had  no  pipe,  until  I  made  myself  one  of  the 
marrow-bones  of  a  seal. 

With  my  last  remaining  knife,  and  a  few  other 
articles  which  I  could  scarcely  spare,  I  purchased  an- 
other sledge-load  of  provisions,  and  sent  them  to  tlie 
brig  by  two  Esquimaux,  Miuke  and  Metek ;  the  latter 
shaving  returned  with -his  sledge,  leaving  Hans  at  the 
brig.  Thus  I  constituted  myself  a  purveyor  for  my 
comrades  on  board,  and  kept  them  constantly  supplied 
with  wholesome  victuals.  When  I  sent  the  last-men- 
tioned load  by  Miuke  and  Metek,  I  walked  ten  miles 
behind  their  sledge,  and  saw  them  fairly  started. 
When  I  parted  from  them,  I  requested  them  to  tell  Mr. 
Brooks  to  send  me  some  articles  suitable  for  traffic  with 
the  natives,  that  I  might  have  the  means  of  purchasing 
food  for  the  use  of  the  brig's  company.  Either  this 
message  was  not  delivered,  or  no  attention  was  paid 
to  it. 
At  the  end  of  five  days  Metek  returned,  bringing 


ORINNELL  EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


1Q7 


^^ 


Dr.  Kane  with  him,  and  leaving  Miuke  to  return  with 
Hans.  I  was  standing  at  the  door  of  a  hut  when  the 
sledge,  with  Metek  and  Dr.  Kane  on  board,  came  in 
sight.  Metek  hallooed  to  me  and  informed  me,  in  the 
Esquimaux  language,  that  *'  nally-gag"  («'.  e.  the  white 
captain)  had  a  pistol.  He  also  bawled  out  to  the  women 
and  children  who  were  gathered  about  the  hut,  and 
ordered  them  to  keep  out  of  the  way.  He  evidently 
considered  ^*  nally-gag"  as  a  very  dangerous  person. 

I  approached  the  sledge  and  saluted  Dr.  Kane  in  a 
very  respectful  manner,  inquiring  if  he  were  fatigued. 
He  replied,  "  Very  much  fatigued  and  very  cold."  In 
fact,  although  he  was  well  wrapped  up  in  furs  and  wool- 
ens, and  had  traveled  very  rapidly  in  the  dog-sledge, 
he  appeared  to  be  half-frozen.  I  got  him  into  a  hut, 
chafed  his  benumbed  limbs,  and  having  borrowed  a 
cooking  utensil  from  one  of  the  Esquimaux  women,  I 
prepared  the  Doctor  some  warm  broth.  He  had  brought 
some  ship-biscuit  with  him,  and  I  broke  several  of  these 
up  and  put  them  in  his  soup,  to  make  the  mess  more 
palatable.  After  he  had  eaten,  he  still  complained  of 
fatigue.  I  helped  him  off  with  some  of  his  clothes  and 
put  him  to  bed,  where  he  slept  soundly  for  several 
hours.  When  he  awoke,  in  answer  to  my  inquiry  how 
he  felt,  he  replied  that  he  was  very  much  refreshed, 
and  he  thanked  me  for  my  attentions.  He  then  asked 
me  what  were  my  reasons  for  staying  away  so  long 
from  the  brig,  where  my  services  were  required.  I  re- 
plied that  I  had  several  reasons  for  keeping  away ;  but 
the  principal  reason  was  that  I  could  be  more  useful  to 
17* 


198 


GODFREY'S  NABRATIYl  Of  THB 


mj  companions  by  remaining  where  I  was  and  sending 
them  food  at  every  opportunity.  '*  Ay,"  said  the  Doc- 
tor, **  but  you  are  setting  them  an  example  of  disobe 
dience  and  mutiny."  Said  I :  "  They  will  not  so  under 
stand  it,  Dr.  Kane,  if  you  explain  to  them  that  I  was 
once  dismissed  from  the  AdvancBf  with  permission  to 
go  home.  My  engagement  was  thus  dissolved;  and 
when  I  re-entered  the  brig,  it  was  on  a  new  footing. 
You  might  have  considered  me  as  your  guest,  or  as  a 
workman  temporarily  employed  on  boatd,  but  you  had 
no  right  to  subject  me  to  the  rigid  discipline  of  the 
naval  service."  He  answered:  ** These  are  questions 
for  lawyers  to  decide ;  but  until  a  legal  decision  is  given, 
you  are  bound  to  obey  my  orders ;  and  your  refusal  to 
come  on  board  when  I  command  you  to  do  so,  is  mu- 
tiny." I  told  him  that  I  could  not  consider  myself 
under  obligation  to  be  any  man's  slave,  and  to  remain 
in  a  slavish  condition,  until  the  laws  should  decide  that 
I  was  a  freeman.  He  replied :  *'  I  am  not  bound  to 
consider  nice  points  of  law  in  a  case  of  this  kind.  It 
is  enough  that  the  law  has  put  it  in  my  power  to  en- 
force obedience,  to  my  orders."  **  If  the  law  has  given 
you  such  power,"  said  I,  "  why  do  you  not  use  it  ?" 
*'  This  is  setting  me  at  defiance,"  said  the  Doctor,  *<  but 
you  forget  that  I  can  send  a  force  from  the  brig  that 
will  be  sufficient  to  arrest  you ;  and  if  I  do  so,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  administer  a  severe  punishment." 
**  When  you  have  arrested  me,"  said  I,  '^  it  will  be  time 
enough  to  speak  of  punishment.  You  have  no  right  to 
command  me,  and  I  will  not  obey  you.     If  any  of  your 


QRINNELL  EXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 


199 


mon  think  that  they  can  arrest  me,  let  them  com«i  and 
try  the  experiment." 

After  a  pause  of  several  minutes,  the  Doctor,  who 
had  become  a  little  excited  toward  the  end  of  the  dia- 
logue just  reported,  became  more  calm,  and  inquired, 
**  What  do  you  intend  to  do  ?"  I  replied,  that  I  had 
partially  made  up  my  mind  to  go  to  Upernaviok  with 
my  Esquimaux  friend  Metek,  who  was  inclined  to  visit 
that  place  and  had  offered  to  convey  me  thither  in  his 
dog-sledge.  From  Upernavick,  or  some  other  southern 
port  of  Greenland,  I  hoped  to  obtain  a  passage  in  some 
vessel  to  the  United  States.  The  Doctor  answered; 
*'  You  had  better  abandon  this  project,  the  execution  of 
which  will  be  both  difficult  and  dangerous.  I  am  now 
making  preparations  to  return  to  our  own  country,  and 
I  find  that  your  assistance  is  indispensable.  It  will  be 
much  better  for  you  to  go  home  with  your  comrades,, 
and  I  now  ask  you,  as  afriendy  to  accompany  me  back 
to  the  brig."  I  answered  without  hesitation,  '*  Dr. 
Kane,  since  you  ask  me  as  a  friend,  I  will  go  with  you." 
He  appeared  to  be  not  only  pleased,  but  surprised  at 
my  acquiescence;  but  if  the  Do*ctor  had  been  better 
acquainted  with  human  nature  in  general,  and  my  na- 
ture in  particular,  he  would  not  have  been  amazed  to 
find  that  kind  and  gentle  words  wero  more  effective 
than  angry  threats  and  reproaches. 

The  ever-accommodating  Metek,  (who,  by  the  way, 
was  the  most  ^amiable  person,  savage  o^  civilized,  that 
ever  I  met  with,)  was  now  summoned ;  and  the  Doctor 
negotiated  with  him  for  the  use  of  his  sledge  and  team 


il 


200 


QODFBETS  NARRATIVE  01*  THE 


to  convey  us  to  the  vessel.  Metek,  who  was  afraid 
that  there  was  something  wrong  between  the  Doctor 
and  I,  wished  to  go  with  us.  He  took  me  apart  and 
told  me  that  he  was  afraid  that  ''nally-gag"  might 
take  a  notion  to  shoot  me  on  the  way,  and  that  his 
object  in  going  was  to  keep  a  watch  on  the  Captain's 
movements.  I  told  him  that  my  quarrel  with  the 
Captain  was  all  over,  and  that  we  were  as  good  friends 
as  ever.  ^'Ko,  no,"  said  Metek,  shaking  his  head, 
"  it 's  not  all  right  yet ;  I  see  it  in  his  eye  !"  And 
Metek  proved  to  be  a  more  accurate  observer  than 
myself. 

I  obtained  several  pieces  of  meat  on  credit,  promising 
to  send  some  small  articles  from  the  brig  to  pay  for 
them.  This  meat  I  placed  in  the  sledge ;  and,  as  the 
dogs  had  not  yet  recovered  from  the  fatigue  of  their 
late  journey,  I  told  the  Doctor  that  I  should  walk,  in 
order  that  the  animals  might  not  be  too  heavily  laden. 
Dr.  Kan^  and  Metek  rode  in  the  sled,  and  I  ran  behind. 
In  this  way  we  traveled  twelve  miles,  when  I  became 
tired  of  running,  and  told  the  Doctor  that  he  and  Metek 
might  go  forward  with  the  sledge,  and  that  I  would 
walk  the  rest  of  the  way.  The  Doctor  told  me  that 
Hans  was  going  to  the  settlement  in  another  dog-sledge, 
that  I  should  meet  him  on  the  way,  and  that  he  would 
furnish  me  with  food  and  any  other  necessaries  that  I 
required.  I  told  Dr.  Kane  that  I  did  not  need  any 
thing,  that  I  had  traveled  on  this  route  twice  without 
provisions,  and  believing  that  I  could  do  so  again, *I 
would  not  deprive  Hans  of  the  articles  which  had  been 


^ 


OBINNELL  SXPLOBINO  EXPEriTION. 


201 


1 


provided  for  his  own  comfort  on  the  way.  Eanc  and 
Metek  then  drove  ahead ;  I  followed  at  my  leisure,  and 
reached  the  brig  a  few  hours  after  their  arrival. 

I  met  with  a  cordial  reception  from  the  whole  brig's 
company.  A  mugnlficent  banquet  of  bean-soup,  (the 
best  entertainment  that  the  vessel  could  afford,)  was 
prepared  to  celebrate  my  return.  When  the  feasting 
and  jollification  were  over,  I  went  below  and  took  a 
long  sleep.  I  found  that  the  fresh  meat  which  I  had 
sent  on  board  had  been  extremely  useful  in  restoring 
the  men  to  health  and  renovating  their  good  spirits.  I 
assisted  my  comrades  in  making  preparations  for  our 
homeward  travel,  as  it  had  been  decided  that  we  should 
abandon  the  brig  early  in  the  spring,  and  attempt  a 
boat  and  sledge  journey  to  Upernavick.  Dr.  Kane 
treated  me  well  enough ;  and  I  had  no  reason  to  suppose 
that  he  harbored  any  unkind  feelings  toward  me,  until 
the  mention  made  of  me  in  his  book  convinced  me  that 
I  had  not  quite  succeeded  in  gaining  his  friendship. 


# 


202 


oodebey's  nabbatiye  of  thb 


«;:■'■ 


y-::  ,.        I-V,f,- 


1^- '(-;?.. /V^i'^ 


■,,      T.      '■^.^■S 


:'^' 


CHAPTER    XXII. 


DR.  KANE  S  UNFAVORABLE  NOTICE  OF  GODFREY — CHARQB 
,  OF  DESERTION  AND  MUTINY — GODFREY'S  DEFENSE 
— COMMENTS  OF  THE  NORTH  BRITISH  REVIEW — THAT 
PERIODICAL  CONDEMNS  DR.  KANE  AND  EXCULPATES 
GODFREY — GODFREY  SUBMITS  HIS  CASE  TO  THB  ARBI- 
TRATION OF  PUBLIC  OPINION — ^A  WARNING  TO  OP- 
PRESSORS. 


The  incidents  de\<iiled  in  the  last  two  or  three  chap- 
ters have  b^een  somewhat  differently  related  by  Dr. 
Kane  in  his  published  volume.  The  Doctor's  memory 
appears  to  have  been  defective  in  some  instances. 
Among  other  curious  assertions,  he  states  that  he  had 
reason  to  suspect  that  those  two  "  bad  fellows,"  God- 
frey and  Blake,  had  contemplated  desertion  and  escape 
to  the  Esquimaux ;  and  that  they  intended  to  waylay 
Hans,  rob  him  of  his  dog-sledge,  and  proceed  southward. 
Deeply  do  I  regret  that  Dr.  Kane  died  before  I  had  an 
opportunity  to  ask  him  what  reasons  he  had  for  any  such 
suspicions  as  these!  He  says,  'Uhese  men  were 
watched,  handcuffed,  and  after  protestations  of  better 
behavior  they  returned  to  their  duties."  This  is  all 
purely  imaginative.  Blake  and  I  were  n  jver  handcuffed  * 


OBINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


203 


and  never  made  any  protestations  of  better  behavior, 
because  our  behavior  was  always  as  good  as  any  body 
had  a  right  to  expect.  Dr.  Kane  says  that  I  told  him 
that  I  had  resolved  to  spend  the  r^t  of  my  life  with 
the  Esquimaux.  I  never  told  him  any  thing  of  the 
kind ;  and  the  filthy  habits  of  these  savages  were  so 
disagreeable  to  me,  that  nothing  but  the  sternest  neces- 
sity could,  have  compelled  me  to  remain  among  them 
for  a  single  week.  This  pious  Commander  says  that  he 
induced  me  to  come  on  board  by  '*  means  of  a  strata- 
gem." When  he  said,  '^  I  ask  you,  as  a  friend,  to  come 
on  board," — was  tms  profession  of  friendship  a  strata- 
gem f  If  so,  it  was  a  very  unworthy  one ;  and  such  a 
stratagem  as  no  man  who  makes  the  least  pretensions 
to  honorable  feelings  could  use.  But  the  most  absurd 
statement  of  all  is,  that  he  brought  me  '*  a  prisoner  to 
the  brig."  Dr.  Kane,  in  physical  constitution,  was  the 
feeblest  man  on  board  of  the  Advance.  I  should  have 
defied  any  two  of  the  strongest  of  the  brig's  company  to 
make  me  '*  a  prisoner."  This  preposterous  statement, 
therefore,  needs  no  denial. 

In  order  to  show  that  the  Doctor  is  condemned  on 
his  own  confession,  and  that  his  account  of  this  matter 
carries  its  own  refutation  with  it,  I  will  quote  the  de- 
cision of  an*  impartial  authority;  an  authority  which 
was  not  likely  to  be  infiuenced  by  any  feelings  of  favor 
or  prejudice.  The  extract  I  give  below  is  taken  from 
a  notice  of  Dr.  Kane's  book  in  the  **  North  British  Re- 
view." It  will  be  observed  that  the  writer  here  quoted 
had  no  knowledge  of  the  facts  of  the  case,  except  what 


t^ 


204 


GODFREY'S  NAREATIVE  OF  THB 


he  derived  from  Dr.  Kane's  own  statements;  and  these, 
as  I  have  shown,  are  made  as  favorable  as  they  could  be 
to  the  Doctor's  side  of  the  question : 

"  In  this  emergency,  (says  the  Reviewer,  with  Dr. 
Kane's  volume  before  him,)  an  event  occurred  of  so 
serious  a  nature  that  if,  in  one  of  its  results,  it  threat- 
ened evil  to  the  Expedition,  in  another  it  might  have 
justly  withdrawn  from  it  that  high  protection  which 
they  daily  sought.  (Here  the  Reviewer  alludes  proba- 
bly to  Dr.  Kane's  frequent  petitions  to  the  Throne  of 
Grace.)  On  Sunday,  the  18th  of  March,  it  is  recorded 
in  Dr.  Kane's  journal,  that  he  had  on  board  '  a  couple 
of  men,  William  Godfrey  and  John  Blake,  whose  former 
^  history  he  would  like  to  know — ^bad  fellows,  both  of  them, 
but  daring,  energetic  and  strong.'  He  had  reason  to 
think  that  they  contemplated  desertion  and  escape  to 
the  Esquimaux — an  act  doubtless  of  trivial  delinquency, 
when  we  consider  that  these  two  men,  with  six  others 
were  formerly  allowed  to  withdraw,  with  half  the 
stores  of  .the  Expedition,  and  that  Dr.  Kane  took 
credit  for  receiving  them  back  again,  though  an  incum- 
brance to  his  party.  Dr.  Kane,  however,  viewed  the  act 
through  the  eyes  of  his  imagination.  He  conjectured 
that  the  intention  of  the  deserters  was  to  rob  Hans  of 
his  sledge  and  dog-team  and  proceed  southward.  The 
men  were  watched,  handcuffed,  and  after  protestations 
of  better  behavior  they  returned  to  their  duties.  An 
hour  after,  Godfrey  escaped,  and  Blake  remained  true 
to  his  post. 

"  Hans  had  noV  been  many  weeks  absent,  and  Dr, 


m 


GRINNELL  EXFLOBINQ  EXPEDITION. 


205 


Kane,  anxious  for  his  return,  set  out  in  search  of  him. 
Hans  is  found  !  Godfrey  had  urged  him  to  drive  off 
with  him  to  the  south,  '  and  so  to  leave  the  Expedition 
sledgeless ;'  but,  upon  Hans'  refusal,  Godfrey  consented 
to  take  a  sledge-load  of  fresh  meat  to  the  brig !  On 
the  morning  of  the  2d  of  April,  Bonsall  '  reported  a 
man  about  a  mile  from  the  brig,  apparently  lurking  at 
the  ice-foot !'  Dr.  Kane  and  Bonsall  went  forward  and 
discovered  their  dog-sledge  with  a  cargo  of  walrus-meat, 
which  had  been  brought  by  Godfrey,  *  and  was  such  a 
God-send,'  that  Dr.  Kane  declares,  'one  may  forgive 
the  man  in  consideration  of  the  good  he  has  done  for 
us  all.'  Godfrey  advanced  to  meet  Dr.  Kane,  and  told 
him  that  he  had  resolved  to  spend  the  rest  of  his  life 
with  the  Esquimaux,  and  that  neither  persuasion  nor 
force  would  prevent  him.  After  forcing  him  back  to 
the  gang-way  by  presenting  a  pistol,  and  leaving  him 
under  Bonsall's  charge.  Dr.  Kane  went  on  board  for 
irons,  but  he  had  hardly  reached  the  deck  when  God- 
frey *  turned  to  run.'  Bonsall  discharged  his  pistol  at 
him,  which  '  failed  at  the  cap.'  Dr.  Kane  'jumped  at 
once  to  the  gun-stand ;'  his  first  rifle  went  off  in  the 
act  of  cocking;  and  the  second,  aimed  in  haste  at  a 
long  hut  practicable  distance,  missed  the  fugitive.  '  He 
made  good  his  escape,  before  we  could  lay  hold  of  an- 
other weapon.' 

"This  attempt  to  take  the  life  of  William  Godfrey, 
which  no  law,  human  or  divine,  can  justify,  was,  fortu- 
nately for  Dr.  Kane,  over-ruled.     When,  in  a  formei 
Arctic  expedition,  its  leader  shot  a  ferocious  Indian  of 
18 


& 


i^ 


I  1 


k' 


I 


206 


OODfRET'S  NARRATIVE  01*  THl 


his  party,  the  world  viewed  it  as  an  act  of  stern  neces- 
sity and  personal  safety ;  bat  Godfrey  was  neither  a 
madman  nor  an  enemy.  He  approached  the  brig  to 
intimate  his  resolution  to  live  with  the  Esquimaux :  as 
if  to  claim  a  friendly  acquiescence,  he  brought  with  him 
a  load  of  food,  without  which  his  shipmates  might  have 
perished*  Were  we  disposed  to  argue  this  question  at 
the  bar  of  our  readers,  we  would  say  that  the  previous 
permission,  which  was  offered  and  accepted,  to  with- 
draw with  half  the  crew,  had  dissolved  the  original 
obligation;  but  no  argument  is  required.  Dr.  Kane 
tells  OS  that  '  the  daily  work  went  on  better  in  God- 
frey's absence,  and  that  the  ship  seemed  better  when 
purged  by  his  desertion;  but  thinking  the  example  dis- 
astrous) he  resolved,  cost  what  it  might,  to  have  him 
back.'  A  month  had  nearly  elapsed,  when  a  report 
arose  that  Godfrey  was  at  Etah,  with  the  Esquimaux ; 
«nd  the  moment  Dr.  Kane  heard  it,  he  'resolved  that 
he  {[^ould  return  to  the  ship.'  He  accordingly  set  off 
to  liitah,  caught  him  by  a  stratagem,  and  brought  him 
'a  prisoner  to  the  brig.'  A  prisoner,  indeed!  Dr. 
Kane  had  been  without  food  in  his  man-hunt  of  eighty 
miles,  and  when  the  filth  of  the  walrus-«teaks  offered 
him  by  an  Esquimaux  'rendered  it  impossible  for 
him  to  eat  them,"  William  Godfrey,  who  must  then 
have  been  at  large,  administered  to  his  wants  by  'bring- 
ing to  him  a  handful  of  frozen  liver-nuts.'  This  '  strong 
and  healthy  man,'  too,  neither  handcuffed  nor  foot- 
cuffed,  ran  peaceably  by  his  captor's  chariot ;  and  dur- 
ing the  future  toils  and  trials  of  the  Expedition,  we  find 


# 


\ 


QBINNELL  EXPLOBINQ  SXPEDITIOlf. 


907 


him  placed  in  situations  of  trust,  and  performing  all  the 
duties  of  his  station. 

'  ''  We  have  presented  this  singular  story  fully  to  our 
readers.  It  is  pregnant  with  instruction ;  and  if  it  is 
not  fitted  to  '  adorn  a  tale/  we  may  use  it  to  '  point  a 
moral'  touching  a  theme  of  duty  which,  however  deeply 
engraven  on  the  tablets  of  Christianity,  has  not  yet 
been  apprehended  by  the  Christian  community.  The 
chief  of  an  expedition,  apprehensive  of  inconve*iience 
to  his  party  from  the  desertion  of  an  individual^  de- 
mands the  forfeit  of  his  life !  Is  not  this  a  true  type  of 
what  a  Christian  tolerates  as  defensive  war,  a  type  in- 
structive in  its  individuality,  and  more  instructive  still 
in  its  results  ?  A  monarch,  like  an  expedition  chief, 
takes  offense  at  an  act  of  real  or  supposed  aggression. 
He  assumes  that  the  safety  of  his  throne  demands  re- 
taliation. His  armies  march  into  the  field,  and  his 
ships  quit  their  moorings.  His  subjects  become  pirates ; 
and  passion  and  self-interest,  under  the  guise  of  patriot- 
ism, rush  with  their  fiery  cross  into  peaceful  and  happy 
communities,  and  hurry  into  eternity  millions  of  souls 
unshriven,  and  tinfit  to  die."  ' 

The  article  from  which  the  above  extract  is  made, 
was  published  originally  in  the  **  North  British  Review," 
and  was  republished  in  the  '*  American  Eclectic  Maga- 
zine of  Foreign  Literature,  Science  and  Art,"  for  April, 
1857 :  being  the  leading  article  of  that  number.  The 
"  Eclectic  Magazine  "  is  published  by  W.  H.  Bid  well,  No, 
5  Beekman  street.  New  York. 

ThEreader  will  perceive  that  Dr.  Kane  has  admit- 


m 


♦ 


iVM 


k 


208 


QODFBEY'8  narrative  of  THl 


ted,  in  his  own  journal,  almost  enough  for  my  justifi- 
cation ;  but  there  are,  in  his  book,  references  to  myself 
which  do  me  great  wrong,  and  which  the  Reviewer 
quoted  above,  for  want  of  any  knowledge  of  the  facts, 
has  not  contradicted.  I  never  persuaded  Hans  to  run 
away  and  *'  leave  the  expedition  sledgeless."  I  sus- 
pect that  Hans  invented  that  story  to  ingratiate  himself 
with  the  Commander,  by  making  a  display  of  his  own 
fidelity.  I  was  not  a  fugitive  from  the  brig ;  for  I 
made  no  secret  of  my  intention  to  leave  her,  and  I 
walked  away  boldly.  I  did  not  *'  attempt  to  run"  when 
Bonsall  kept  guard  over  me;  and  if  I  had  wished  to 
make  my  escape  in  that  craven-like  manner,  the  ice 
about  the  vessel  was  too  rough  to  admit  of  running. 
There  are  many  other  errors  in  Dr.  Kane's  account ; 
but  not  wishing  to  cast  any  unnecessary  obloquy  on 
the  character  of  the  deceased,  I  will  now  submit  my 
case  to  the  judgment  of  the  public.  I  would  not  have 
presumed  to  obtrude  my  private  wrongs  on  the  atten* 
tion  of  the  public,  with  such  a  prolixity  of  detail,  were 
I  not  assured  that  this  case  involves  several  questions 
of  general  interest.  And  I  wish,  by  the  exposure,  I 
have  made,  to  give  a  wholesome  warning  to  persons 
« dressed  in  a  little  brief  authority,"  who  may  be 
tempted  to  '^  play  fantastic  trices  before  high  heaven." 
I  would  teach  them  the  useful  lesson  that  the  victims 
of  oppression,  however  abject  may  be  their  state,  may 
^d  a  tongue  to  speak ;  and  by  proclaiming  their  iiguries 
in  tones  which  the  world  cannot  refuse  to  hear,  obtain 
redress  for*  their  wrongs,  even  at  an  earthly  tril^jimlb 


# 


¥^ 


GEINNELL  EXFIiOBING  KZPSDITION. 


809 


ti^J 


)^ 


K 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 


tt 


THB  AUTHOR  GOES  ON  ANOTHER  PROYISIOV-HUNTING 
EXPEDITION — HE  CHASES  A  BEAR — MUTINY  AMONG 
HIS  DOGS — HE  SHOOTS  A  SEAL  AND  SATISFIES  THB 
DEMANDS  OF  THB  OANINE  MUTINEERS — SOAROITT  Of 
PROVISIONS  AT  BTAH — ^THB  AUTHOR  BXTBNDS  HIS 
JOURNEY    TO    ANOTHER    SETTLEMENT — MEETS    WITH 

>  THE  MEN  WHO  TOOK  "  GODFREY'S  CORDIAL" — THEIR 
APPRECIATION  OF  THE  JOKE — ^A  BEAR  FIGHT — ^VA- 
RIOUS ADVENTURES — GODFREY  RETURNS  TO  THB  BRIG 
WITH  A  LOAD  OF  FRESH  MEAT. 

Before  I  had  been  on  board  two  weecs,  our  stock 
of  fresh  provisions  again  gave  ooJp  for  our  men  '*  eat 
like  threshers  ;**  as  people  generally  do  when  they  are 
recovering  from  a  spell  of  sickness.  Mr.  Brooks,  who 
acted  as  first  officer,  desired  me  to  take  a  sledge  and 
dog-team,  provide  mj^self  with  such  small  articles 
as  I  thought  would  answer  for  trading  with  the  Esqui- 
maux, and  go  to  some  of  the  native  villages  where  there 
was  any  likelihood  of  obtaining  more  meat.  As  I  ob- 
served once  before,  our  supplies  of  beads,  knives,  and 
other  marketable  articles,  had  become  very  scarce.  I 
had  observed,  however,  that  the  Esquimaux  set  a  very 


*%£"'■ 


't 


SIO 


AODIBXT'B  NABSATiyi  01  TBI  < 


I- 


I  i 


high  value  on  pieces  of  wood  of  apj  kind;  in  fact, 
among  them  there  is  no  better  currency  than  old  barrel 
staves,  scraps  of  pine  plank,  broken  boxes,  &c.  I  broke 
up  a  number  of  old  pork  barrels,  and  ladened  my  sledge 
with  the  fragments,  confident  that  I  should  find  very 
willing  customers  for  this  kind  of  merchandise.  In 
addition  to  my  wooden-ware,  I  had  a  small  lot  of  nee- 
dles and  two  knives ;  the  last  that  could  be  spared  from 
the  brig.  I  traveled  alone  with  a  team  of  four  dogs, 
proceeding  southward.  When  about  thirty  miles  from 
the  brig,  I  discovered  a  bear  on  the  ice,  and  imme- 
mediately  gave  chase.  My  dogs,  who  were  considera- 
bly more  than  half  starved,  became  almost  frantic  and 
unmanageable  at  the  prospect  of  a  feast.  Though 
obliged  to  drag  the  heavily  laden  sledge  after  them, 
they  darted  off  in  pursuit  of  the  bear,  running  at  a  sur- 
prising rate,  considering  their  incumbrances.  When 
the  chase  ha4  lasted  for  about  an  hour,  I  saw  that  it 
was  all  lost  labor,  as  the  bear,  having  nothing  to  carry 
but  his  own  weigM^left  us  further  behind  him  every 
moment.  I  therefore  held  in  my  dogs,  and  attempted 
to  turn  their  heads  in  the  direction  I  wished  to  travel ; 
but  the  brutes,  made  desperate  by  hunger,  showed  a 
determination  to  resist  my  authority.  They  were  much 
to  be  pitied,  indeed,  on  account  of  their  cruel  disap- 
pointnrant;  but  necessity,  "the  tyrant's  plea,"  com- 
pel!^ me  to  use  severe  measures  to  make  them  tracta- 
ble. When  they  found  that  I  would  not  allow  them  to 
follow  the  bear,  they  threw  themselves  on  their  haunches 
and  filled  the  air  with  the  most  diabolical  howling.    I 


't 


OBINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


211 


cut.  away  with  my  whip,  right  and  left,  but  this  had  no 
effect  on  their  obstinacy.  I  got  out  of  the  sledge  and 
seized  one  of  the  leaders  by  the  collar  to  drag  him 
along,  but  the  rascal  gave  me  a  pretty  bad  bite  on  tho 
arm,  and  so  compelled  me  to  relinquish  my  grasp. 
The  contest  lasted  for  half  an  hour,  and  not  until  the 


■it 


.)>■--- 


8KALS  AT  PLAT. 


bear  was  quite  out  of  sight  could  I  induce  my  team  to 
move  forward.     The  ravenous  propensities  of  the  dogs 
•K>ften  occasion  vexatious  delays  in  this  kind  of  travel-^ 


Jfc.i 


aia 


aODfRET'S  NABBATIVK  Of  THl 


ing.  Having  proceeded  about  ten  miles  further,  I  s^w 
a  party  of  seals  playing  on  the  ice.  Before  I  left  the 
brig,  I  had  taken  care  to  provide  myself  with  a  rifle, 
which  was  loaded  and  deposited  in  the  sledge  ready  for 
use.  I  snatched  it  up,  and  while  the  dogs  bounded  for- 
ward, I  took  aim  at  one  of  the  amphibious  animals  and 
fired.  My  shot  took  effect,  disabling  the  seal  and  pre- 
venting him  from  making  his  escape  through  an  open- 
ing in  the  ice,  which  was  very  near  him,  and  into  which 
all  the  other  seals  plunged,  as  soon  as  they  heard  the 
report  of  the  gun.  My  starving  dogs  pounced  on  the 
wounded  seal  with  remorseless  fury.  In  less  than  five 
minutes,  I  believe,  the  creature  was  torn  to  pieces  and 
completely  devoured. 

My  poor  dogs  having  satisfied  their  hunger  for  the 
present,  went  on  their  way  with  great  alacrity.  I  made 
a  very  \m6k  trip  to  Etah,  but  found  the  inhabitants  of 
that  place  unprepared  for  a  trade.  We  had  made  so 
many  draughts  on  their  provision  department,  that  they 
had  scarcely  enough  left  for  their  own  use;  and 
although  t^ey  oast  many  eager  glances  at  my  load  of 
old  barrel-staves,  they  had  no  eatables  which  they 
could  afford  to  barter  for  that  desirable  commodity. 
What  a  speculation  it  would  be  for  some  Yankee  sea 
captain  in  the  merchant  service  to  carry  a  load  of  pine 
lumber  to  the  Esquimaux  settlements  I  Every  square 
foot  of  pine  plank  would  command  its  weight  in  costly 
furs,  and  ten  times  its  weight  in  seal  and  walrus-blub- 
ber, which  yield  more  than  their  whole  bulk  of  good 
lamp-oil !     If  Smith's  Sound  were  Qnly  navigable,  thi^ 


QRINNELL  SXPLORIMQ  EXPKDITION. 


213 


Greenlani  trade  would  deserve  the  attention  of  our 
enterprising  countrymen. 

Finding  that  there  was  no  market  a(  Etah  for  mj 
valuable  merchandize,  I  refreshed  myself  a  little  at  the 
residence  of  my  friend  Metek,  and  started  again,  with 
the  intention  of  proceeding  to  the  next  settlement. 
Metek  and  his  wife  harnessed  up  their  dog-team,  and 
accompanied  me  to  the  nearest  Esquimaux  village, 
where  we  found  a  party  of  native  hunters,  among  whom 
were  the  two  men  whom  I  had  physicked  with  **  God- 
frey's Cordial,"  as  related  in  a  former  part  of  this 
volume.  That  adventure  was  humorously  narrated  by 
one  of  my  patients  to  the  whole  party,  and  all  of  them 
regarded  it  as  a  most  excellent  joke,  though  I  could 
never  recall  it  to  my  memory  without  some  twinges  of 
conscience. 

I  remained  with  these  hunters  for  several  days;  and 
while  sojourning  with  them  I  participated  in  a  bear- 
hunt,  or  rather  a  he&r-fight,  the  result  of  which,  for 
some  time,  was  quite  doubtful.  Our  ursine  antagonists 
were  only  two  in  number,  but  they  were  large  and  pow- 
erful  fellows,  and  very  ferocious.  We  chased  them  five 
miles,  when  they  turned  to  bay.  The  Esquimaux  hunt- 
ers were  armed  with  spears ;  I  had  my  rifle.  Our  doga 
began  the  attack ;  several  of  them  were  snatched  up  by 
the  bears,  who  took  them  in  their  arms,  gave  them  an 
aiTectionate  squeeze,  and  pitched  them  to  the  distance 
of  twenty  or  thirty  feet.  Two  dogs  were  killed  by 
this  process,  and  three  or  four  others  were  badly  hurt. 
The  plan  of  attack  was  for  two  spearsmen  to  apply 


•«p" 


r 


214 


GODFREY'S   NABBATIVE  OF  THE 


themselvos  to  each  bear.  One  of  them  would  give  the 
bear  a  wound  behind  the  shoulder,  and  when  the  bear 
turned  to  execute  vengeance,  the  other  hunter  would 
stab  him  on  the  opposite  side.  This  plan  worked  very 
well  for  a  while ;  but  a  bear  who  had  received  a  wound 
was  too  quick  for  the  aggressor.  He  turned  suddenly, 
and  gave  the  Esquimaux  a  bite  in  a  very  fleshy  part  of 
the  body ;  this  successful  repulse  made  the  whole  party 
of  assailants  stand  back  for  a  few  minutes.  I  took  this 
opportunity  to  use  my  rifle,  no  great  skill  in  gunnery 
being  required,  as  I  could  place  the  muzzle  of  my  piece 
within  two  feet  of  my  victim's  nose.  The  ball  pene- 
trated to  the  animal's  brain,  and  killed  him  instantly. 
The  other  bear  was  soon  after  dispatched  by  my  com- 
panions of  the  hunt.  According  to  the  Esquimaux 
rule  of  sportsmanship,  the  game  was  equally  divided 
among  the  members  of  the  party.  I  obtained  nearly 
two  hundred  pounds  of  bear's  meat  as  my  share  of  the 
spoils.  I  likewise  traded  away  my  barrel-staves  to  very 
good  advantage,  receiving  about  four  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  of  walrus-flesh  in  exchange  for  the  lot,  out  of 
which  I  reserved  some  twenty  or  thirty  pieces  to  re- 
ward Metek  and  his  wife  for  the  assistance  they  had 
given  me,  and  for  the  many  acts  of  kindness  and  char- 
ity they  had,  at  various  times,  done  for  our  brig's  com- 
pany. • 

Having  now  as  much  meat  as  I  could  conveniently 
carry  on  my  sledge,  I  took  the  nearest  route  to  the 
brig,  making  but  few  pauses,  and  very  short  ones,  on 
the  way.     Metek  carried  my  load  part  of  the  way  on 


•n^. 


m^ 


OBINNELL  SXPLOKRTa  EXPEDITION. 


215 


his  sledge,  to  save  the  strength  of  my  dogs  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  journey.  When  I  came  within  fifty 
miles  of  the  brig,  the  dogs  began  to  give  out,  as  the 
load  was  too  heavy  for  them.  About  the  same  time  a 
heavy  storm  of  wind  and  snow  commenced,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  make  an  excavation  in  a  snow-drift  to  shel- 
ter myself.  I  gave  my  dogs  a  luncheon ;  then,  wrap- 
ping myself  up  closely  in  a  buffalo-skin,  and  burying 
myself  under  the  snow,  leaving  only  a  breathing-hole, 
I  took  a  comfortable  nap  while  the  storm  continued. 
When  I  awoke,  I  found  that  my  dogs  were  so  worn  out 
by  hard  travel,  that  they  would  not  be  able  to  drag 
their  heavy  load  to  the  vessel.  I  applied  all  my 
strength  to  the  back  of  the  sledge  and  pushed  it  along, 
while  the  exhausted  quadrupeds  walked  in  front.  In 
this  way  we  proceeded  some  three  or  four  miles,  when, 
by  a  very  lucky  chance,  an  Esquimaux  hunter  in  an 
empty  sledge  overtook  me.  His  dogs  were  tolerably 
fresh,  and  I  bargained  with  *him  to  convey  my  load  to 
the  brig.  For  this  service  I  agreed  to  give  him  a  piece 
of  pine  board,  about  three  feet  and  a  half  long  and  four 
inches  broad,  which  I  tore  from  the  back  of  my  sledge. 
You  may  judge  from  this  circumstance  that  pine  boards 
are  very  good  currency  among  the  Esquimaux.  On 
this  journey,  my  only  food  was  raw  walrus-meat,  in  a 
frozen  condition.  I  ran  behind  my  sledge  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  way,  in  order  to  lighten  the  labor 
of  my  dogs,  as  the  poor  brutes  were  completely  woaritd 
out.  At  one  place,  while  passing  over  some  very  rough 
ice,  the  sledge  which  carried  the  load  was  upset ;  this 


i 


I   r 


m 


I  '■^n 


t. 


MM 


i 

11 


\i 


t 


216 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OP  THE 


accident  made  it  necessary  for  us  to  unload,  place  the 
sledge  in  its  right  position,  and  then  load  up  again.  I 
;  performed  all  this  labor  with  uncovered  hands,  having 
never  accustomed  myself  to  wear  gloves.  My  Esqui- 
maux companion  expressed  his  astonishment  at  my 
hardihood.  The  Esquimaux  themselves  do  all  their 
out-door  work  with  hands  closely  covered  with  fur  mit- 
tens. >,         ;.'■■-'       -'    Z:      •     I    V-:.' 

My  arrival  at  the  brig  with  this  fresh  supply  of  meat 
occasioned  another  jubilee.  Mr.  Brooks  was  much 
j»-  pleased  with  my  success,  and  warmly  commended  mo 
for  my  quick  performance  of  the  duty.  From  Dr. 
Kane  himself,  I  seldom  or  never  received  any  words  or 
signs  of  approbation  or  encouragement.  He  had  set 
me  down  as  a  ^^bad  fellow,"  and  a  bad  fellow  he  was 
determined  to  have  me  to  the  end  of  the  chapter. 


^-    ^.-.i 


>!    ,'  iu-y> 


.*.    ;i 


i  :'    '^    ,"1 


vv 


w^ 


■••i^  ,i    i 


ace  the 
;ain.    I 

haying 
'  Esqui- 

at  my 
11  their 
fur  mit- 

of  meat 
3  much 
ded  me 
om  Dr. 
rords  or 
had  set 
he  was 


r. 


V.'! 


^ik^ 


?    W 


■■\ 


m 

I 


m^ 


i 


'A 


I 


A\,ik: 


Fl' 


I  "^  I' 


J.i 


pa 

I 
P  '4 


J 


II 


I 


fe-  • . 


m 


QBINNELL   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


219 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

FINAL  ABANDONMENT  OP  THE  BRIO  ADVAJfCE — HER 
PROBABLE  FATE — COMMENCEMENT  OP  A  SLEDGE  AND 
BOAT  JOURNEY — HERCULEAN  LABORS  AND  SLOW  PROG- 
RESS—ELOPEMENT OP  HANS  CHRISTIAN — PATAL  AC- 
CIDENT— DEATH  AND  BURSAL  OP  MR.  OHLSEN,  THE 
CARPENTER — SCARCITY  OP  PROVISIONS — ROBBERY  OP 
DUCK  NESTS — SLAUGHTER  OF  SEA-FOWL— WE  MEET  A 
DANISH  BOAT — ARRIVAL  AT  UPERNAVICK — OUR  RE- 
CEPTION— EMBARKATION  FOR  THE  UNITED  STATES — 
ARRIVAL  AT  NEW  YORK. 

By  the  16th  day  of  May,  1855,  all  the  preparations 
for  our  homeward  journey  were  completed.  The  mode 
of  traveling  which  had  heen  decided  on  was  hy  hoat 
and  sledge  conveyance.  Our  three  boats  had  been 
fixed  on  sledge-runners,  so  that  they  might  be  easily 
transported  over  the  ice  which  surrounded  the  brig. 
While  making  our  adieus  to  the  poor  old  Advance,  we 
could  not  help  observing  that  there  was  not  a  great 
deal  of  her  left  to  receive  our  valedictories.  We  had 
used  much  of  her  wood-work  for  fuel  during  the  two 
hard  winters  which  we  had  passed  in  this  inhospitable 
climate,  and  many  pieces  of  board  and  timber  had  been 
.  taken  from  the  hull  of  the  vessel  to  construct  store- 


i! 


>!«5 


m 


ki 


I 


1^ 


220 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


houses,  observatories,  &c.,  on  shore.  The  brig  looked 
very  much  like  a  wrepk  when  we  left  her;  and  as 
the  Esquimaux  value  wood  more  highly  than  gold,  I 
think  it  is  likely  that  they  have  completely  demolished 
her. 

Both  Kane  and  Sonntag  seem  to  regard  our  boat 
journey  to  Upernavick  as  a  stupendous  undertaking. 
I  look  at  it  in  a  somewhat  different  light.  It  was,  in- 
deed, a  tedious  and  troublesome  enterprise ;  but  during 
the  whole  time  that  we  were  on  the  route,  we  experi- 
enced less  suffering,  and  were  exposed  to  less  danger, 
than  had  been  attendant  on  some  of  our  previous  jour- 
neys along  the  shores  of  the  Sound  and  in  the  interior 
of  Greenland.  We  were  now  favored  with  daylight, 
and  an  atmospheric  temperature  which  might  be  con- 
sidered almost  pleasantf  when  compared  with  that  which 
our  people  had  endured  on  former  occasions. 

The  last  scene  on  board  of  the  brig  was  a  very  so- 
lemn one.  Dr.  Kane  made  a  prayer  for  Divine  favor 
and  protection,  a  duty  which  the  Doctor  seldom  omit- 
ted at  the  commencement  of  important  undertakings. 
He  appeared  to  have  the  organ  of  religious  veneration 
exceedingly  well  developed.  '' 

The  beginning  of  our  journey  was  very  slow  and  la- 
borious. The  three  ice-boats  (or  boats  on  sledge-run- 
ners,) were  heavily  laden  with  provisions,  tent-fixtures, 
cooking  apparatus,  bedding,  scientific  instruments,  and 
some  sick  people.  To  the  bow  of  each  ice-boat  was 
affixed  a  rue-raddy,  or  long  strap  made  of  canvas,  by 
which  the  men  dragged  the  boat  along.    This  operation, 


OBINNELL  EXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 


221 


on  account  of  the  roughness  of  the  ice,  was  not  only 
difficult,  but  almost  an  impossibility.  After  one  hour's 
hard  toil,  we  found  that  we  had  advanced  but  half  a 
mile !  The  strength  of  our  whole  party  was  required 
to  drag  a  single  boat ;  when  we  had  hauled  one  a  little 
way,  we  returned  for  another ;  and  so  the  work  pro- 
ceeded. But  the  rough  hillocky  nature  of  the  ice  oc- 
casioned less  trouble  than  its  fragility  in  some  places. 
The  sledges,  with  all  their  loads  and  the  men  who 
hauled  them,  broke  through  repeatedly,  and  then  the 
labor  of  extricating  them  was  immense.  It  appeared 
to  me  that  our  course  might  have  been  made  less  toil- 
some by  a  few  simple  mechanical  contrivances ;  but  as 
I  was  only  '*  one  of  the  men,"  I  did  not  feel  authorized 
to  make  any  suggestions.  I  had  been  taught  by  expe- 
rience that  advising  superior  officers  in  the  naval  ser- 
vice is  a  hazardous  business,  even  if  your  advice^s  un- 
questionably good. 

We  passed  the  Esquimaux  settlement  called  Etah, 
which  has  been  so  often  mentioned  in  this  narrative. 
The  inhabitants  of  that  village  gave  us  a  great  deal  of 
assistance,  and  supplied  us  with  some  additional  provi- 
sions. But  soon  after  we  left  Etah,  Hans  Christian, 
the  special  favorite  of  the  Commander,  whose  k^ublime 
virtues  have  been  paraded  before  the  whole  civilized 
world,  was  reported  among  the  missing.  Diligent  search 
was  made  for  him,  but  to  no  purpose.  Ho^was  never 
seen  afterward  by  any  of  our  company.  Dr.  Kane, 
who  imagined  that  Hans  loved  him  more  than  all"%% 
world,  was  afraid  that  he  had  been  sucked  in  by  soiDid*  - 
19* 


.#■ 

' 

• 

222 

GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 

1    . 


i 


fissure  in  the  ice ;  but,  in  a  metaphorical  sense,  the 
Doctor  himself  was  "sucked  in."  Hans  had  gone  oif 
to  bo  wedded,  and  to  enjoy  the  sweets  of  domestic  fe- 
licity. The  Esquimaux  of  Etah  aided  his  escape,  and 
they  concealed  him  afterward.  Hans  had  been  very 
useful  to  the  Expedition ;  being  a  native  of  Greenland, 
and  accustomed  from  infancy  to  the  severity  of  the  cli- 
mate, he  could  endure  mor^  cold  than  any  of  our  party, 
except  Morton,  Blake,  and  myself. 


'k^»VJ!S«Si."%.H. 


BURIAL    OF  MR.   OHLSBlf. 

Our  course  was  nearly  due  southward ;  but  so  slow 
was  our  progress  that,  at  the  end  of  eight  days,  w« 


GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


223 


found  ourselves  only  fifteen  miles  from  the  brig.  Be- 
tween Etah  and  Littleton  Island  a  very  melancholy  ac- 
cident took  place.  One  of  the  sledges  having  broken 
through  the  ice,  the  strength  of  all  hands  was  required 
to  lift  it  out.  Mr.  Ohlsen,  the  carpenter,  while  lifting 
at  the  bow  of  the  boat,  ruptured  himself,  and  either  for 
want  of  proper  treatment,  or  because  his  hurt  was  very 
bad,  he  died  two  days  afterwarjd*  We  buried  him  on 
Littleton  Island.  He  was  an  excellent  mechanic,  a 
kind-hearted  and  conscientious  man,  and  indefatigable 
in  the  performance  of  his  duty.  His  services  to  the 
Expedition  have  never  met  with  the  acknowledgment 
they  deserved.  He  left  a  wife  and  children ;  and  the 
thoughts  of  their  destitute  situation  very  much  disturbed 
the  tranquillity  of  his  last  moments. 

Mr.  Ohlsen  was  the  third  person  of  our  company  who 
perished  in  Greenland.  His  death  left  but  fifteen  sur- 
vivors of  the  original  eighteen  who  had  embarked  at 
New  York.  As  a  testimonial  of  respect  to  the  memory 
of  Mr.  Ohlsen,  his  name  was  given  to  a  cape  opposite 
to  Littleton  Island. 

As  we  had  but  a  short  allowance  of  provisions,  we 
were  obliged  to  rely  pretty  much  on  hunting  and  shoot- 
ing for  our  maintenance  during  this  boat  journey.  On 
some  of  the  little  islands  we  found  an  abundance  of 
the  eggs  of  the  eider-duck,  and  we  succeeded  in  shoot- 
ing loons  and  other  water-fowls  in  great  number.  Near 
Hakluyt  Island  we  joined  a  party  of  natives,  who  were 
engaged  in  a  walrus-hunt ;  and  two  of  t^ese  animals 
being  killed,  the  meat  was  fairly  distributed  among  our 


!v''J 


li 


'?f 


224 


GODFREY^S  NARRATIVE  OF  TUB 


combined  forces,  each   man  having  an   equal   share. 
Walruses  appear  in  herds  on  the  ice,  and  may  be  ap- 


WALBUSES   ON  THE  lOB 


proached  with  little  difficulty,  as  they  are  not  much 
afraid  of  the  human  species.  They  often  make  des- 
perate resistance  when  attacked,  and  they  are  very 
hard  to  kiH,  as  their  skins  are  thick  and  hard,  and,  in 
some  places,  impervious  to  a  rifle-ball.    The  Esquimaux 


e  ap- 


ORINNELL  BXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION 


225 


much 
B  des- 
very 
[id,  in 
maux« 


slaughter  them  by  striking  them  with  spears  in  some 
vulnerable  parts  of  their  bodies.  While  the  men  were 
engaged  in  hauling  the  boats  along  by  the  tedious  pro-  - 
cess  I  have  described,  Dr.  Kane,  Petersen,  and  1  made 
a  number  of  trips  in  the  dog-sledges  to  several  ^Esqui- 
maux settlements,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  provi- 
sions, which  we  deposited  at  different  points  on  our 
intended  route.  ^ 

Having  passed  over  eighty  miles  of  ice,  we  reached 
open  water  about  the  middle  of  June.  We  now  took 
the  runners  from  the  boats,  to  prepare  them  for  a  new 
mode  of  travel ;  but  as  the  breaking  of  the  ice  made  the 
navigation  too  perilous  for  any  present  attempt,  we 
remained  at  Cape  Alexander  for  several  days,  to  wait 
for  a  favorable  change  in  the  condition  of  the  water. 
During  the  greater  part  of  the  journey  ovei^the  ice  we 
were  accompanied  by  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  Etah. 
When  our  arrival  at  open  water  made  a  separation  ne* 
cessary,  they  took  leave  of  us  with  every  appearance 
of  sorrow.  As  soon  as  the  water  became  practicable 
for  boating,  we  embarked  and  steered  southward,  until 
we  passed  Hakluyt  Island.  The  water  now  became 
Very  much  embarrassed  with  ice,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  beat  about  in  every  direction  to  avoid  the  floes.  In 
the  meanwhile,  provisions  became  very  scarce,  and  con- 
tinued so  until  we  reached  Dalrymple  Island,  lat.  76^ 
10',  where  we  laid  in  a  capital  supply  of  duck  eggs,  on 
which  we  feasted  for  the  next  six  or  eight  days.  At 
Cape  Dudley  Digges,  the  cliffs  are  resorted  to  by  my- 
riads of  aquatic  birds,  loons,  little  auks,  &c.     They  ap- 


4 


u  % 


226 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


pcared  in  large  flocks,  so  densely  packed  together,  that 
six  or  eight  were  sometimes  killed  at  a  single  shot.  We 
fared  luxuriously  on  these  delicate  birds,  and  salted 
Bome  of  t'  <)m  for  future  use. 

We  pursued  our  course  by  the  edge  of  the  land  ice, 
along  the  shore  of  Melville  Bay.  On  the  4th  day  of 
August,  we  were  surprised  at  the  sight  of  a  large  boat, 
with  masts,  which  was  lying  among  some  small  islands. 
Soon  after,  we  saw  the  boatmen,  three  in  number,  ou 
one  of  the  islands.  They  were  Danes  from  Upernavick, 
who  had  come  to  this  locality  for  the  purpose  of  trading 
with  the  natives.  These  men  were  the  first  civilized 
persons,  (except  our  own  company,)  that  we  had  seen 
for  about  two  years.  The  sight  of  them  occasioned 
some  emotions,  making  us  realize  the  fact  that  we  were 
approaching  our  homes.  The  Danes,  whd  were  engaged 
in  cooking  on  shore,  invited  us  to  partake  of  their  din- 
ner, and  treated  us  to  two  almost  forgotten  dainties, 
beer  and  tobacco ;  in  requital,  we  gave  them  a  history 
of  our  adventures. 

We  arrived  at  the  Danish  settlement,  called  Uper- 
navick, on  the  6th  of  August,  eighty-three  days  after 
we  left  the  Advance.  At  this  place  the  family  of  our 
Danish  interpreter,  Mr.  Petersen,  resided.  The  meet- 
ing between  him  and  his  wife  and  children  was  ex- 
tremely affecting,  and  was  calculated  to  give  the 
bachelor  portion  of  our  party  an  impression  favorable 
to  matrimony.  Petersen  invited  us  to  his  abode,  and 
his  consort  feasted  us  on  hot  cakes  and  coffee.  The 
authorities  of  Upernavick  gave  us  the  use  of  an  old  di- 


a 

01 

ei 


ORINNELL  EXPLOklNQ  EXPEDITIOIf. 


22» 


lapidated  store-house  as  a  lodging-room.  Some  of  the 
inhahitants,  especially  Mr.  €raig,  a  clergyman,  attended 
to  our  wants,  and  treated  us  in  a  Christian-like  manner. 
We  continued  at  Upernavick  for  about  twenty  days, 
awaiting  the  arrival  of  a  v  essel  which  visits  that  port 
once  every  year.  When  this  vessel  came,  Dr.  Kane 
engaged  a  passage  for  our  whole  company,  with  the 
understanding  that  we  should  be  landed  at  the  Shetland 
Islands ;  but  wo  were  fortunately  saved  from  such  a 
roundabout  voyage  homeward.  The  Danish  brig  Ma- 
riannaj  in  which  we  embarked,  had  occasion  to  stop  at 
Godhaven,  on  Disco  Island.  We  went  on  shore  at  this 
place,  and  were  well  received  by  the  Governor  and  the 
inhabitants  in  general.  After  a  stay  of  several  days, 
we  received  intelligence  from  some  Esquimaux  that 
there  were  two  American  vessels  outside.  We  manned 
our  boat  and  reached  one  of  the  vessels,  which  proved 
to  be  the  propeller  ArctiCf  which  was  Howing  the  brig 
Release.  Both  of  these  vessels  were  commanded  by 
Capt.  Hartsteine,  who  had  com^  in  search  of  Dr.  Kane. 
The  reception  of  the  Doctor  on  board  was  enthusiastic. 
Our  men  likewise  met  with  a  hearty  welcome  from  the 
officers  and  crews  of  the  two  American  vessels.  The 
propeller  towed  the  Release  and  the  Danish  ship  out 
of  the  harbor.  We  had  a  prosperous  voyage  to  New 
York.  No  incident  worthy  of  particular  mention  occur- 
red to  us  while  on  our  passage  to  that  city. 


',^i' 


;i;^: 


228 


GODFREY'S  NARRATIVE  OP  THE 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


CONCLUDING  OBSERVATIONS — THE  AUTHOR  S  UNFORTU- 
NATE POSITION — RESULTS  OF  THE  GRINNELL  EXPEDI- 
TION— WHAT  WAS  DISCOVERED — EXPLORATIONS  OF  THE 
COAST  —  IMPORTANT  ADDITIONS  TO  GEOGRAPHICAL 
SCIENCE— METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS — THE  OPEN 
POLAR  SEA — SUGGESTIONS  BY  THE  AUTHOR — HE  EX- 
PRESSES HIS  WILLINGNESS  TO  JOIN  ANOTHER  EXPE- 
DITION. 


In  the  composition  of  the  preceding  pages,  circum- 
stances compelled  me  to  be  as  brief  and  concise  as  pos- 
sible ;  I  have  therefore  omitted  the  particular  mention  of 
many  of  my  labors  and  adventures  in  the  polar  regions ; 
but  I  can  conscientiously  say,  in  general  terms,  that  no 
man  labored  more  constantly  and  zealously  than  I  did 
in  the  service  of  the  last  Grinnell  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion. If  I  had  merely  been  unrewarded  for  my  services, 
and  merely  refused  the  credit  which  I  thought  I  had 
deserved,  I  should  have  made  no  complaint ;  but  I  have 
received  such  positive  injuries  as  might  have  justified 
a  resort  to  still  more  vindictive  measures  than  the  pub- 
lication of  this  narrative.  Since  my  return  to  the 
United  States,  I  have  felt  the  effects  of  the  stigma 
which  Dr.  Kane  had  affixed  to  my  character.    The  dc- 


QRINNELL  EXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 


229 


nunciations  of  such  a  high  authority  were  well  calculated 
to  "take  the  bread  out  of  my  mouth."  The  reader 
will  not  be  surprised,  therefore,  when  I  inform  him  that 
T  have  found  it  very  difficult  to  obtain  employment  in 
a  country  where  Dr.  Kane's  book  has  been  extensively 
circulated ;  and,  for  some  time,  I  was  reduced  to  the 
necessity  of  earning  my  livelihood  by  driving  an  omni- 
bus in  the  city  of  Philadelphia ! 

A  mere  reference  to  these  facts  would  be  a  sufficient 
apology  for  the  publication  of  this  volume.  It  is 
through  no  fault  of  mine  that  the  book  was  not  pub- 
lished sooner.  If  it  could  have  appeared  before  the 
decease  of  Dr.  Kane,  I  should  have  been  much  better 
satisfied ;  but  every  man  who  has  any  experience  in 
the  writing  and  publishing  of  books,  will  know  that  a 
poor  and  obscure  author  must  encounter  many  obsta- 
cles in  the  attempt  to  bring  a  literary  production  before 
the  public.  I  am  indebted  to  the  liberality  and  enter- 
prising spirit  of  Messrs.  Lloyd  &  Co.  for  the  oppor- 
tunity I  now  have  to  give  publicity  to  my  work ;  and  I 
hope  the  sale  of  the  book  will  be  sufficient  to  remune- 
rate those  gentlemen  for  their  generous  exertions  in 
my  behalf. , 

While  bringing  this  narrative  of  the  Grinnell  Ex- 
ploring Expedition  to  a  conclusion,  it  may  be  proper  to 
inquire  wnat  that  Expedition  accomplished.  It  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  remark  that  the  enterprise  failed 
in  its  main  object,  viz.  the  search  for  Captain  Franklin. 
Dr.  Kane  and  the  persons  under  his  command  suc- 
ceeded in  making  some  important  ad^tions  to  the  geo- 


t'?'\>, 


5  ^* 


'■•I  ' 
1 


1  . 


I 

III  m 
^  nil 


„4,  h 


is, 


20 


fw 


230 


GODFREY'S  NABRATIVE  OF  THli 


graphical  accounts  of  Greenland,  by  the  discoTery  of 
the  great  Humboldt  Glacier  and  the  extension  of  the 
East  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay  or  Smith's  Sound  to  within 
8°  38';  and  the  West  coast  to  within  7°  80'  of  the  pole. 
Our  meteorological  observations  likewise  must  have  some 
interest  for  the  public ;  but  it  is  to  be  regretted  that, 
among  other  deficiencies  in  the  fitting  out  of  the  Expe- 
dition, no  adequate  provision  was  made  for  the  conduct- 
ing of  scientific  research. 

The  discovery  of  an  open  polar  sea,  (if  admitted  to 
be  a  genuine  discovery,)  would,  indeed,  be  an  achieve- 
ment of  very  great  importance.  I  do  not  say  that  there 
is  any  thing  intrinsically  improbable  in  the  supposed 
existence  of  such  a  sea  at  the  northern  extremity  of 
Smith's  Sound ;  but,  for  various  reasons,  I  suspect  that 
no  such  discovery  was  made  by  any  member  of  our 
party. 

My  own  experience  and  observations  in  the  polar 
dimes  have  convinced  me  that  exploration  might  be 
carried  much  further  than  the  7th  degree  of  North  lati- 
tude. I  have  scarcely  a  doubt  that  the  pole  itself  might 
be  reached,  if  it  is  accessible  by  land  travel  or  by 
sledge-journeys  over  the  ice.  When  I  made  the  north- 
ward journey  with  Dr.  Hayes,  spoken  of  in  my  narrative, 
I  would  have  proceeded  much  further,  if  my  supplies  of 
provisions  and  the  condition  of  my  companion's  health 
had;  not  prevented  me.  In  all  future  journeys  of  the 
kind,  I  should  prefer  traveling  alone,  so  that  I  might 
have  nobody  to  take  care  of  but  myself.  Kow  I  think 
that  if  I  were  landed  at  Cape  Isabella,  near  the  entrance 


ORINNELL  EXPLORINQ  EXPEDITION. 


231 


Tery  of 
I  of  the 
»  within 
;he  pole. 
>ye  some 
3d  that, 
e  Expe- 
3oiiduct- 

litted  to 
achieve- 
at  there 
upposed 
mity  of 
ect  that 
of  our 

le  polar 
light  be 
rth  lati- 
f  might 
I  or  by 
9  liorth- 
irrative, 
plies  of 
3  health 
I  of  the 
I  might 
I  think 
ntranoe 


of  Smith's  Sound,  and  provided  with  a  sledge  and  good 
dog-team,  a  sufficiency  of  provisions  and  some  necessary 
equipments,  I  could  travel  along  the  land-ice,  (which 
generally  affords  a  tolerably  smooth  and  practicable 
trdbk,)  to  a  point  very  far  beyond  any  which  has 
hitherto  been  reached.  My  former  experience  in  this 
kind  of  travel  would  enable  me  to  avoid  many  difficul- 
ties which  an  inexperienced  traveler  might  encounter. 
I  should  be  quite  willing  to  try  this  experiment,  making 
my  remuneration  depend  on  my  success.  Such  an  ex- 
periment, fairly  and  fully  tried,  would  either  confirm 
Morton's  account  of  the  open  sea,  or  prove  that  account 
to  be  erroneous.  Possibly  the  experiment  might  lead 
to  other  results  of  still  greater  importance.  If  another 
Arctic  Expedition  should  leave  the  United  States,  I  am 
willing  to  be  one  of  the  party,  provided  I  am  not  placed 
in  a  situation  of  abject  slavery,  and  am  assured  of  such 
good  treatment  as  any  American  freeman,  however  poor 
and  unfortunate  he  may  be,  has  a  right  to  expect. 


'\.-ly 


THE  END  OP  GODPEEY'S  NARRATIVE. 


■i: 


* 


%■ 


if 


::i 


li.«i^:i 


f 


II 


l>'    ^1 


11. 


m 

M 


fi 


% 


PORTKAIT    OF  DB.  KANB. 


#• 


h. 


I 


I 


'/ 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH 


DOCTOR  ELISHA  K.  KANE, 

COMMANDER  OF  THE  GRINNELL  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

.  * 

The  life  of  a  brave  and  adventurous  man  will  always 
abound  with  incidents.  Whoever  takes  up  this  volume, 
therefore,  with  the  expectation  of  finding  a  record  of 
many  striking  and  surprising  events,  will  certainly  not 
be  disappointed. 

Elisha  Kent  Kane,  son  of  Judge  John  Kintzing 
Kane,  was  born  in  the  city  of  Philadelphia,  on  the  third 
day  of  February,  1822.  While  yet  a  boy,  he  receired 
a  part  of  his  education  at  the  University  of  Virginia ; 
and  even  at  this  early  period,  though  evincing  a  great 
aptitude  for  instruction,  he  was  for  a  time  led  away 
from  his  regular  course  of  study  by  an  irresistible 
longing  after  new  fields  of  discovery.  Almost  as  a 
truant,  the  active  lad,  under  the  superintendence  of  Pro- 
fessor Rodgers,  made  a  tour  of  the  Blue  Mountains  of 
Virginia  for  the  purposes  of  geological  exploration. 
Thus,  unlike  many  American  youths,  whose  ambition 
leads  them  to  ignoble  if  not  disorderly  pursuits,  the 

(235) 


;;  ■  '11 


'^ 


r 


r 


236 


BIOQRAPHOAL  SKETOH  OF 


Ij 


yery  frolics  of  Elisha's  boyhood  tended  to  the  acquisi- 
tion of  scientifio  information.  His  academical  studies 
were  scarcely  retarded  by  this  apparent  intermission, 
and  he  completed  them  with  as  much  honor  as  a  more 
constant  application  could  have  achieved. 

Returning  to  his  native  State,  he,  in  due  course  of 
time,  graduated  at  the  University  of  Pennsylvania, 
first  in  the  collegiate  and  then  in  the  medical  depart- 
ment. His  favorite  studies  were  those  of  chemistry 
and  surgery ;  and  his  preference  for  the  latter  may  be 
explained  by  that  devotion  to  whatever  requires  daring 
and  self-denial,  that  impulse  to  brave  those  things  which 
the  weakness  of  our  natures  is  most  inclined  to  shrink 
from,  which  he  always  exhibited.  The  seeds  of  knowl- 
edge fell  in  a  fertile  soil ;  and,  in  1848,  young  Kane 
left  his  Alma  Mater  an  accomplished  classical  scholar, 
a  good  chemist,  and  a  skillful  surgeon. 

His  attention  was  now  turned  toward  the  sea ;  partly 
from  an  extraordinary  fondness,  (we  may  almost  call  it 
a  mania,)  for  adventure,  and  partly  because  he  hoped 
that  a  sailor's  life  might  strengthen  a  physical  organi- 
zation whose  fragility  was  a  serious  obstacle  to  all  his 
designs.  He  applied  for  and  obtained  an  appointment 
in  the  United  States'  Navy ;  and  immediately  after  his 
admission,  demanded  to  be  placed  in  active  service.  He 
was  accordingly  appointed  surgeon  to  the  first  Ameri 
can  embassy  to  China.  While  thus  engaged,  leave  of 
absence  was  offered  him,  and  he  readily  availed  himself 
of  the  opportunity  to  travel  over  a  considerable  portion 
of  thQ>  Chinese  Territory.    He  extended  his  journey  to 


» 


DOOTOR  ELTBHA  K.   KANE. 


234 


the  Phillipine  Islands,  which  he  explored,  traveling 
principally  on  foot.  He  visited  Ceylon,  and  penetrated 
to  the  very  interior  of  India. 

On  arriving  at  the  volcano  Tael,  of  Luzon,  he  could 
not  resist  the  temptation  to  explore  its  crater  ;  an  un- 
dertaking which  was  certainly  as  novel  and  perilous  as 
the  romantic  daring  of  our  youthful  adventurer  could 
have  desired.  But  one  man  had  attempted  it  before, 
and  he  had  failed  in  a  manner  which  was  not  calculated 
to  invite  any  body  else  to  finish  the  exploit.  When 
Dr.  Kane  made  known  his  intention  to  descend  into  the 
fiery  gulf,  he  was  heard  by  his  companions  with  mingled 
fear  and  amazement,  and  every  argument  was  used,  but 
in  vain,  to  dissuade  him  from  this  enterprise.  His 
inclination  to  try  this  curious  feat  was  as  strong  as  the 
partiality  which  some  young  gentlemen  show  for  the 
recreations  of  the  ball-room  or  opera-house.  Finding 
him  inflexible  in  his  resolution,  a  bamboo  rope  was  pro- 
cured and  fastened  around  his  waist  by  the  persons  who 
accompanied  him ;  and,  with  misgivings  of  the  most 
painful  nature,  they  lowered  him  into  the  crater  to  the 
depth  of  more  than  two  hundred  feet.  Not  satisfied 
with  this,  he  clambered  down  seven  hundred  feet^further, 
over  masses  of  volcanic  fragments,  scoriae,  &c.  He 
had  provided  himself  with  drawing  materials,  and  now, 
with  as  much  coolness  as  was  ever  displayed  in  so  hot 
a  situation,  he  proceeded  to  make  a  topographical 
sketch  of  the  interior  of  this  terrible  furnace.  He  then 
filled  a  bottle  with  sulphurous  acid  from  the  very  vortex, 
as  it  were,  of  the  volcano,  and  collected  some  geological 


•I 


238 


BIOORAPHIOAL  BKETOH  Of 


epecimens.  Had  his  stay  been  prolonged  a  rery  little 
while,  the  cause  of  his  death  would  have  been  far  differ- 
ent from  what  it  eventually  was  ;  but  he  was  drawn  up 
just  in  time  to  avert  the  catastrophe.  However,  the 
hot  and  sulphurous  air  of  the  volcano  had  nearly  stifled 
him ;  and,  after  he  was  dragged  up,  with  unavoidable 
roughness,  over  jagged  fragments  of  rocks  and  harden- 
ed lava,  his  companions,  for  a  time,  were  obliged  to 
support  his  almost  senseless  form,  while  he  gasped  con- 
vulsively for  breath.  He  soon  recovered  himself ;  but 
it  seems  to  have  been  Dr.  Kane's  destiny,  never  to  be 
out  of  danger.  The  natives  of  this  region  were  accus- 
tomed to  worship  the  presiding  genius  of  Tael,  whom 
they  regarded  with  the  utmost  degree  of  awe,  as  a 
being  not  to  be  thought  of  without  fear,  or  approached 
rashly  and  without  reverence.  It  may  be  imagined, 
then,  with  what  feelings  they  looked  on  the  conduct  of 
Dr.  Kane,  who  had  presumed  to  penetrate  into  what 
they  considered  to  be  the  inviolable  sanctuary  of  their 
deity.  At  first,  they  seemed  paralyzed  by  the  audacity 
of  the  youthful  stranger ;  but  these  feelings  were 
quickly  succeeded  by  those  of  fierce  resentment.  Seeing, 
with  increased  wonder,  that  Kane  was  not  stricken 
dead  by  their  insulted  divinity,  they  resolved,  with 
their  own  hands,  to  make  his  life  an  expiatory  sacrifice 
for  his  supposed  impiety.  The  savages  accordingly 
attacked  the  Doctor  and  his  little  party  with  a  rage 
proportioned  to  their  ignorance,  and  a  desperate  strug- 
gle ensued.  But  the  natives  discovered  that  the  man 
who  had  been  too  much  for  Tael  was  too  much  for  themf 


DOCTOR  ELI8HA  K.   KANE. 


239 


r  little 
diflfer- 
wn  up 
er,  the 
stifled 
oidable 
Larden- 
iged  to 
ed  con- 
If ;  but 
•  to  be 
)  accus- 
,  whom 
e,  as  a 
reached 
agined, 
iduct  of 
;o  what 
jf  their 
kudacity 
58   were 
Seeing, 
stricken 
5d,  with 
sacrifice 
)rdingly 
L  a  rage 
e  strug- 
the  man 
OT  themy 


and  the  same  intrepidity  which  had  prompted  Dr.  Kane 
to  explore  the  volcano,  saved  him  from  the  conse- 
quences of  that  feat. 

This  adventure  was  followed  by  a  similar  one  with 
the  Ladrones,  who  likewise  attacked  him,  and  over 
whom  he  was  likewise  victorious.  At  this  time,  Dr. 
Kane's  traveling  companion  was  Baron  Loe  of  Prussia ; 
and  in  visiting  the  Ladrone  Islands,  &c.,  their  hardships 
were  so  great  that  the  Baron  lost  his  life  in  consequence. 
While  on  the  same  journey,  Dr.  Kane  ascended  the 
Himalaya  Mountains ;  after  which  he  directed  his 
course  toward  Egypt.  Here  he  formed  an  acquaint- 
ance with  the  learned  Lipsius,  who  was  then  employed 
in  prosecuting  his  archseological  researches,  and  who  was 
greatly  pleased  to  find  so  much  love  of  science  in  so 
young  a  mind.  In  company  with  Lipsius,  the  Doctor 
ascended  the  Nile  as  far  as  the  borders  of  Nubia,  and  in- 
spected all  the  most  wonderful  relics  of  Egyptian  anti- 
quity. From  the  Pyramids  "  forty  centuries  looked  down 
upon  him ;"  and,  as  he  surveyed  those  inanimate  piles 
of  stone,  which  are  more  immortal  than  the  skill  which 
planned  and  the  power  which  executed  them,  he  re- 
solved to  leave  for  himself  a  monument  built  of  deeds 
which  have  nothing  to  do  with  time  and  mortality,  and 
whose  foundation  should  be  in  the  love  and  esteem  of 
every  elevated  mind  that  should  come  after  him. 

In  Egypt  he  met  with  a  hostile  attack  similar  to 
that  which  he  had  received  at  the  hands  of  the  native? 
of  India ;  but  in  this  conflict  the  Doctor  was  severely 
wounded  and  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life.     He  next 


m^ 


m 


i;'>     !| 


I 


-'I 

1!^ 


m 


■1 

1 


■a 


240 


BIOORAPIIIOAL  SKETCH  Of 


visited  Greece,  which  ho  triangulated  on  foot,  and  made 
the  scenes  and  objects  immortalized  in  classic  verse  and 
history  as  familiar  to  his  eyes  as  they  had  long  been 
to  his  imagination.  He  now  felt  a  strong  desire  to 
revisit  his  home  and  relatives,  and  accordingly  set  out 
on  his  return,  passing  through  Italy,  France,  and 
England. 

He  reached  his  native  land  in  1846,  at  the  time  when 
the  Mexican  war  had  just  broken  out.  Dr.  Kane  re- 
quested that  he  might  be  sent  to  Mexico ;  but  the 
government  was  pleased  to  disregard  his  wishes,  and  to 
give  him  a  more  dangerous  and  a  far  more  disagreeable 
mission,  which  ultimately  contributed  to  shorten  his 
life.  He  was  ordered  to  the  coast  of  Africa,  whither 
he  sailed  in  the  frigate  United  States,  on  an  expedition 
whose  object  was  the  suppression  of  the  slave-trade. 
Da  Sourza,  the  notorious  agent  of  the  African  chiefs 
and  of  the  Brazilian  slavers,  to  whom  those  chiefs  are 
in  the  habit  of  selling  their  subjects,  furnished  the 
Doctor  with  a  pass,  by  means  of  which  he  obtained 
access  to  the  baracoons  of  Dahomey,  and  surveyed 
jicenes  of  tyranny  and  misery  which  were  hidden  by  a 
vail  of  politic  mystery  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  He 
also  inspected  all  the  slave-factories  from  Gape  Mount 
to  the  river  Bonny,  and  might  have  carried  his  re- 
searches still  further  had  it  not  been  for  an  unforeseen 
prevention.  The  coast-fever  seized  upon  that  agile 
and  indefatigable  frame,  and  reduced  him  almost  to  a 
dying  condition.    His  commanding  officer.  Commodore 


DOCTOR  ELISHA  K.  KANK. 


241 


,  made 
se  and 
;  been 
tire  to 
set  out 
e,  and 

e  when 
ane  re- 
)ut  the 

and  to 
reeable 
ten  his 
vrhither 
)edition 

trade. 

chiefs 
iefs  are 
ted  the 

)tained 
irveyed 
m  by  a 
d.    He 

Mount 

his  re- 
9reseen 
,t  agile 
ost  to  a 

modore 


Hoed,  sent  him  home  on  the  siok  list,  as  the  only  meant 
of  saving  his  life. 

On  reaching  home,  Dr.  Kane  soon  became  oonyales- 
cent ;  but  the  disease  had  so  prostrated  hit  constitution 
that  he  never  recovered  from  its  effects.  He  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  his  health  was  irretrievably  wrecked ; 
and,  as  all  his  previous  thoughts  had  been  bent  on 
shaping  for  himself  a  useful  and  exalted  course  of  life, 
nothing  now  remained  but  to  consider  how  he  could 
most  gloriously  die.  His  mind  reverted  to  Mexico  as 
presenting  the  most  favorable  field  for  the  acquisition 
of  speedy  renown,  and  for  the  performance  of  those 
services  which  he  wished  to  render  to  his  country. 
Though  now  scarcely  strong  enough  to  walk,  he  called 
in  person  on  President  Polk,  and  expressed  his  wishes 
to  be  actively  employed  in  the  struggle  which  was  then 
in  progress  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States. 
The  President,  perceiving  that  the  applicant  was  no 
ordinary  man,  resolved  to  assign  him  a  duty  of  no  ordi- 
nary magnitude.  Our  national  Executive  had  been 
laboring  under  a  serious  embarrassment,  in  conse- 
quence of  a  temporary  suspension  of  its  intercourse 
with  General  ScotlT,  the  commander  of  the  American 
forces.  While  the  President  wished  to  transmit  to 
General  Scott  some  dispatches  of  great  urgency  and 
importance,  he  had  not  hitherto  been  able  to  find  any 
means  of  sending  them  safely  by  a  route  so  long  »nd 
so  much  beset  by  the  enemy.  With  these  docuii^ents, 
Dr.  Kane,  (though  an  untried  volunteer,)  was  entrusted, 

21 


i^' 


M 
(■<" 


m 


m. 


•*, 


%• 


242 


BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCH  OF 


and  we  need  not  speak  of  the  alacrity  with  which  he 
executed  the  mission. 

Arriving  at  Puebla,  the  Doctor  found  there  Colonel 
Dominguez  and  his  celebrated  spy  company,  a  band  of 
Mexicans  who  had  joined  the  American  cause,  and  not 
being  willing  to  incur  any  delay  by  waiting  for  traveling 
companions  of  a  better  reputation,  he  took  them  for  his 
guide  and  escort.  Near  Nopaluca,  they  received  the 
startling  information  that  a  large  body  of  Mexican 
troops,  much  superior  to  their  own  party  in  force,  had 
been  sent  out  for  the  express  purpose  of  intercepting 
them,  and  that  they  were  now  quite  near.  On  the  re- 
ception of  this  news,  Dominguez  declared  his  intention 
to  make  a  timely  retreat ;  but  Dr.  Kane,  aroused  by 
the  very  mention  of  this  design,  informed  Dominguez 
that  if  he  executed  his  purpose,  he  (the  Doctor,)  would 
take  care  that  the  vengeance  of  the  American  govern- 
ment should  deal  with  the  recusant.  His  arguments 
prevailed;  Dominguez  was  induce^  to  advance;  and 
they  soon  encountered  the  Mexican  troops,  who  were 
commanded  by  some  officers  of  distinguished  reputation 
for  valor, 

Dr.  Kane  ordered  a  charge,  which  he  led  in  person, 
and  the  daring  manner  in  which  he  threw  himself  upon 
the  enemy  at  once  surprised  them  and  stimulated  his 
own  party.  Among  the  opposing  officers  were  General 
Gaona,  a  distinguished  veteran,  who  had  defended  the 
Castle  of  San  Juan  d'Ulloa  against  the  French ;  and 
his  son,  who  bade  fair  to  achieve  an  equally  honorable 
career. 


rhlch  he 

Colonel 
band  of 
and  not 
raveling 
n  for  hia 
ived  the 
Mexican 
Tce,  had 
rcepting 
1  the  re- 
ntention 
msed  by 
iminguez 
•,)  would 
,  govern- 
'guments 
Lce;  and 
fho  were 
iputation 

L  person, 
jelf  upon 
lated  his 
General 
nded  the 
;ch;  and 
lonorahle 


f'.% 


.Mi 


■Ml 


1'  ■ 


'it 


I 

i 


I! 


i 


n 


wfH' 


DOCTOR  ELTSHA  K.  KANE. 


245 


The  battle  commenced  in  an  inauspicious  manner  for 
Dr.  Kane's  party.  Dr.  Kane's  horse  received  a  mortal 
wound  and  fell,  carrying  its  master  to  the  ground. 
The  Doctor,  however,  quickly  disengaged  himself  from 
the  dead  animal;  and,  no  wise  daunted,  commenced 
fighting  on  foot.     The  younger  Gaona, 


i 


:t 


u^i 


ill 


*'  With  that  stern  joy  which  warriors  feel 
In  foemen  worthy  of  their  steel,"         .^ 


chose  Dr.  Kane  for  his  antagonist ;  and  the  conflict 
altogether,  considering  the  limited  force  on  either  side, 
was  one  of  the  most  desperate  and  o^cciting  that  can  be 
imagined.  Kane,  besides  his  total  inexperience  in  every 
thing  pertainii  -^  to  military  matters,  and  besides  the 
superiority  of  '  )i  emy  in  numbers,  had  the  further 
disadvantage  of  iUov  being  seconded  by  his  own  country- 
men.  He  was  sustained  only  by  a  pack  of  Mexican 
tories,  whose  courage  was  very  doubtful,  and  who  could, 
of  course,  be  instigated  by  no  motives  of  patriotism. 
Yet  such  was  the  effect  of  Kane's  own  personal  prowess 
and  animating  example,  that,  ere  long,  it  was  evident 
that  he  must  become  the  master  of  the  field. 

Toung  Gaona  discovered  that  although  appearances 
indicated  that  there  was  little  to  be  dreaded  from  his 
adversary's  physical  force,  he  had  a  spirit  that  might 
have  buckled  with  Goliah  himself;  and  their  combat 
was  terminated  by  Dr.  Kane's  sword  passing  through 
the  body  of  the  Mexican  cavalier.  Gaona  fell,  cast  one 
look  of  defiance  at  his  victorious  foe  and  closed  his  eyes, 
21*  ^  ^ 


El  II 


.'!fp(, 


i 


246 


BIOOBAPHIOAL  SKETCH  OT 


! 


as  he  imagined,  forever.  But  he  vrafi  amazed  to  find 
himself  again  a  conscious  inhabitant  of  this  earth ;  and 
still  more  so  to  see  Dr.  Kane  kneeling  beside  him  and 
dressing  his  wound  with  the  utmost  kindness  and  atten- 
tion. The  Doctor,  by  tying  up  a  severed  artery,  had 
preserved  his  antagonist's  life ;  and  the  young  man  is 
probably  still  living  to  attest  the  care  and  skill  of  his 
generous  enemy. 

General  Tarragon,  General  Gaona,  and  all  their  men 
who  had  not  flec^  or  been  killed,  had  been  taken  prison- 
ers ;  and,  with  these  trophies,  our  party  triumphantly 
resumed  their  march.  But,  before  they  had  proceeded 
far,  Dominguez  an4  his  band,  with  that  base  and  mer- 
ciless ferocity  which  is  always  displayed  by  renegades 
against  their  own  more  patriotic  countrymen,  announced 
their  intention  to  slaughter  the  prisoners.  Dr.  Kane 
was  infinitely  more  appalled  when  he  heard  what  was 
the  design  of  his  companions,  than  he  would  have  been 
had  he  himself  been  their  destined  victim.  He  forbade, 
he  threatened  them,  but  they  heard  only  the  voice  of 
revenge  calling  for  her  bloody  banquet.  He  urged  the 
claims  of  humanity  and  the  laws  of  honor,  but  they 
neither  understood  nor  cared  for  such  arguments.  See- 
ing his  companions  advancing,  weapons  in  hand,  against 
the  captives,  he  again  drew  the  sword  which  had  so 
lately  hewed  oat  the  way  to  victory,  and  prepared,  sin- 
gle-handed, to  combat  the  whole  of  his  Mexican  allies. 
Bent  on  the  massacre  which  they  meditated,  the  latter 
prepared  to  plunge  their  swords  and  lances  into  the 


0 


\ 


DOCTOR  EUSHA  K.  KANE. 


247 


breasts  of  their  prisoners,  who  believed  that  not  another 
moment  of  life  was  left  for  them. 

But  ere  the  uplifted  weapons  had  quite  reached  their 
destination,  Kane  threw  himself  before  their  points, 
making  his  own  body  the  shield  of  the  doomed  men ; 
and  a  lance,  which  was  just  about  dealing  the  death- 
blow of  one  of  the  captives,  buried  its  head  deeply  in 
the  thigh  of  their  defender.  The  sight  of  their  gallant 
leader's  gushing  blood,  shed  by  their  own  hands,  pro- 
duced something  like  shame  and  compunction  even  in 
the  minds  of  Bominguez  and  his  followers ;  the  upraised 
blades  sunk  harmless,  nor  was  any  other  attempt  made 
against  the  lives  of  the  prisoners.  The  latter  were  de- 
livered safely  into  the  hands  of  Colonel  Ohilds,  the 
American  Governor  of  Puebla,  by  Dr.  Kane,  who  had 
been  conveyed  to  that  place. 

.  General  Gaona,  who  owed  to  Dr.  Kane  the  lives  of 
both  himself  and  his  son,  was  a  resident  of  Puebla,  and 
on  his  arrival  at  that  place,  was  liberated  on  parole. 
He  insisted  on  having  the  young  American  removed 
to  his  own  mansion,  where  the  Doctor  lay  ill  for  some 
time,  from  the  effects  of  the  very  dangerous  wound 
which  he  h-ad  received.  The  Gaona  family  devoted 
their  attention  to  him,  as  a  beloved  son  and  brother, 
and  many  a  prayer  did  their  patron  saints  receive  on 
his  account. '*^^ 

So  doubtful  was  Dr.  Kape's  recovery  considered, 
that  he  was  actually  reported  as  dead  to  his  family  at 
home.  After  much  suffering,  however,  he  partially 
recovered ;  owing  perhaps  to  the  careful  nursing  which 


■;;!► 


1 


i 


248 


BIOORAPHIOAL  8KET0H  OF 


h 


he  had  received,  but  his  wound  was  Another  shock  to 
his  constitution,  by  which  it  was  permanently  aflfected. 
The  Doctor  consented  to  wait  only  until  he  was  barely 
able  to  continue  his  journey ;  and  then,  after  an  affect- 
ing parting  with  the  Gaona  family,  he  hastened  for- 
ward with  the  dispatches  with  which  he  was  entrusted* 
General  Gaona  and  his  son  were  ever  afterward  in* 
eluded  among  the  Doctor's  warmest  personal  friends ; 
and  when  their  grand-children  relate  the  adventures  of 
their  progenitors  in  the  "  American  war,"  they  will  dwell 
with  enthusiasm  upon  the  chivalrous  conduct  of  Kane. 

Dr.  Kane  suffered  nothing  to  detain  him  until  he 
reached  the  city  of  Mexico,  where  he  delivered  his  dis- 
patches into  the  hands  of  the  Commander-in-chief, 
General  Scott. 

Before  he  left  Mexico,  Dr.  Kane  ascertained,  by  bar- 
ometrical observations,  the  height  of  the  celebrated  vol- 
canic mountain,  Popocatapetl.  On  his  arrival  at  home, 
he  was  presented  with  a  magnificent  sword  by  the  citi- 
zens of  Philadelphia,  as  a  testimonial  to  his  courage 
and  public  services.  Soon  after,  he  visited  Mexico  on 
a  more  pacific  occasion,  being  ordered  on  the  Coast 
Survey  service,  under  the  direction  of  Professor  Bache. 
It  was  at  this  time  that  the  first  Grinnell  Exploring 
Expedition,  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  was  pro- 
jected, and  Dr.  Kane  immediately  volunteered  his  ser- 
vices toward  an  undertaking  which  was  in  every  way 
calculated  to  interest  his  feelings ;  since  it  at  once, 
called  forth  his  benevolence,  his  love  of  science,  and  his 
adventurous  daring.     He  was,  to  use  his  own  words, 


f 


DOCfrOB  EIJSHA  K.   KANS. 


249 


^If 


**  bathing  in  the  tepid  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
on  the  12th  of  May,  1850,"  -when  a  telegraphic  mes- 
sage reached  him,  in  which  he  was  notified  to  repair  at 
once  to  New  York  for  the  purpose  of  joining  the  "  Ad- 


vance. 


tt 


*  Nine  days  after  the  receipt  of  this  order,  he  was  a 
good  distance  on  his  way  to  the  North  Pole,  as  senior 
surgeon  and  naturalist  of  De  Haven's  Expedition.  As 
our  readers  are  aware,  no  discoveries  of  any  kind  were 
made  on  this  voyage ;  but  no  blame  can  be  attached  to 
the  explorers  on  that  account,  as  all  concerned  dis- 
played much  zeal  and  intrepidity.  In  Melville  Bay, 
De  Haven's  vessels  encountered  the  Prince  Albert,  a 
small  schooner  which  had  been  fitted  out  by  Lady 
Franklin  herself;  and,  for  a  short  time,  th^  three 
vessels  remained  in  company.  The  second  officer  of 
t  the  Prince  Albert  was  a  young  Frenchman  named 
Joseph  Rene  Bellot,  who  had  previously  served  with 
much  distinction  in  the  French  Navy,  and  who  was 
noted  alike  for  his  courage  and  humanity.  In  an  evil  hour 
he  espoused  Franklin's  disastrous  cause,  and  while  prose- 
cuting the  search  for  him,  not  more  than  a  year  after 
the  date  of  which  we  are  now  speaking,  he  met  his 
death  by  being  crushed  among  the  icebergs. 

At  first  sight.  Dr.  Kane  and  Bellot  were  drawn  to- 
gether by  the  most  powerful  affinities  ;  for  they  were 
as  much  alike  in  disposition  as  in  destiny.  Bellot  was 
surprised  to  find  that,  on  every  topic  of  conversation 
which  was  started,  Kane  had  something  new  and  useful 
to  communicate;  and  Kennedy,  the  Captain  of  the 


IS:'' 


<    I 


M 


1 


^ 


m 


#1 


J 


250 


BIOQRAPincAL  SKETCH  OF 


* 


a 


Prince  Alherty  himself  a  very  religious  man,  was  almost 
equally  pleased  at  finding  Dr.  Kane  as  pious  as  he  was 
intelligent.  These  three,  delighted  with  the  congenial 
society  of  each  other,  hunted  together,  explored  to- 
gether, and  together  found  that  religion,  virtue,  and 
friendship  can  afford  not  contentment  only  but  pleasure, 
even  within  the  arctic  circle.  But  such  scenes  in  human 
life  are  never  of  long  duration.  De  Haven  and  Leask, 
(the  sailing-master  of  the  Prince  Albert,)  each  deter- 
mined to  pursue  a  different  route.  The  loss  of  Kane's 
society  seemed  to  Bellot  a  pang  almost  unendurable  ;^ 
and  the  Doctor,  ever  after,  held  his  young  friend  in  the 
most  affectibnate  remembrance. 

After  an  absence  of  about  fifteen  months,  the  Ad' 
vance  and  Rescue  returned  from  that  voyage,  the 
details  of  which  are  to  be  found  in  Dr.  Kane's  ^'  Per- 
sonal Narrative,"  his  first  book,  which  was  published 
early  in  1853.  Lieutenant  De  Haven,  in  his  official 
report,  while  speaking  of  the  medical  officers  of  his 
vessels,  says  :  '*  My  thanks  are  due  to  them,  especially 
to  Passed  Assistant  Surgeon  Kane,  the  Senior  Medical 
Officer  of  the  Expedition.  I  often  had  occasion  to 
consult  him  concerning  the  hygiene  of  the  crew ;  and 
it  is  in  a  great  measure  owing  to  the  advice  which  he 
gave,  and  the  expedients  which  he  recommended,  that 
the  Expedition  was  enabled  to  return  without  the  loss 
of  one  man."  .  » 

It  was  about  this  time  that  Dr.  Kane,  after  so  many 
triumphs,  found  his  conqueror ;  and,  what  is  still  more 
humiliating  to  confess,  submitted  to  the  fetters  of  cap- 


« 

w 


» 


cn 

> 

H 
K! 

H 
H 
> 
O 

to 

w 

Hi 

H 

It* 

> 

o 

CO 


almost 
he  was 
Qgenial 
red.  to- 
e,  and 
easure, 
human 
Leask, 
deter- 
Kane's 
irable ; 
I  in  the 

he  Ad- 

;e,   the 

"Per- 

blished 

official 

of  his 

•ecially 

ledical 

ilon  to 

;  and 

lich  he 

dy  that 

he  loss 

many 
I  more 
f  cap- 


I'll 


m 


«?i 


DOCTOR  ELISHA  K.   KANI. 


S53 


tivity  without  a  single  hostile  demonstration.  Marga- 
ret and  Kate  Fox,  the  two  younger  of  the  celebrated 
trio  of  **  medium"  sisters,  visited  the  city  of  Philadel- 
phia, where  they  gave  some  demonstrations  of  their 
'*  spiritual  gifts."  Probably  from  mere  curiosity,  the 
first  motive  of  all  who  investigate  these  matters,  the 
Doctor  attended  one  of  their  circles. 

Margaret  Fox,  concerning  whose  personal  attractions 
much  has  been  said  and  written,  was  then  some  nine- 
teen or  twenty  years  of  age.  She  is  a  young  lady  of 
medium  stature,  with  regular  features,  rather  full  face, 
brilliant  black  eyes,  and  hair  of  a  corresponding  hue. 
What  was  Dr.  Kane's  opinion  with  regard  to  Spiritual- 
ism we  are  not  authorised  to  state ;  but  he  found  that 
there  was  an  "  influence"  in  the  above-mentioned  eyes, 
which  the  consistency  ^^of  his  heart  was  not  tough 
enough  to  resist.  The  first  evidence  which  he  gave  of 
his  affection  was  one  which  proved  not  only  his  good 
sense,  but  his  wish  to  confer  a  solid  and  lasting  benefit 
on  the  fair  seeress.  He  bad  her  given  an  excellent 
education  at  his  own  expense,  advised  with  her  teach- 
ers, and  took  pains  to  inform  himself  of  her  progress. 

Why  cannot  we  bring  this  portion  of  our  narrative 
to  that  pleasing  conclusion  which,  with  a  novelist,  would 
be  inevitable  ?  Dr.  Kane's  family  had  risen  to  great 
eminence,  not  only  in  pecuniary  wealth  but  in  the 
honors  of  the  land ;  and  it  was  their  cherished  wish 
that  the  hope  and  pride  of  their  house  should  ally  him- 
self with  the  crime  de  la  crime  of  American  aristocracy. 

Margaret  Fox  was  of  very  humble  birth  and  con- 
22 


■r 


JtP 


264 


BIOURAPHIOAL  BK£TOH  Of 


nections ;  but  this  consideration  had  less  weight  with 
the  Doctor  himself  than  the  fact  of  the  dubious,  and 
to  him  repulsive  notoriety  of  which  she  had  long  been 
the  subject.  The  name  of  "  spirit-rapper,"  with  the 
pointings  and  gazings  of  the  mob,  the  sneers  of  the 
ribald  newspaper  press,  and  the  imputations  of  char- 
latanry, seemed  dreadful  to  the  man  who  had  fearlessly 
confronted  the  weapons  of  both  savage  and  civilized 
foes.  On  the  one  side,  were  his  love  and  all  the  real 
and  imaginary  perfections  of  its  object ;  on  the  other 
side,  filial  duty  and  that  reputation  which  he  held  more 
precious  than  his  life.  To  a  person  of  the  Doctor's 
keen  sensibilities,  this  was  really  an  agonizing  dilemma ; 
and,  while  he  looked  with  mortification  and  self-blame 
on  his  own  wavering,  it  seemed  almost  equally  impossi- 
ble to  take  or  to  renounce  the  hand  of  Margaret. 

But  it  is  not  to  be  imagined  that  even  love  could  bind 
Dr.  Kane  to  an  inactivity  of  long  duration.  The  un- 
satisfactory result  of  his  cruise  with  De  Haven  was  an 
afflictive  disappointment  to  him,  and  he  was  seized  with 
a  longing  desire  to  make  a  more  thorough  exploration 
in  the  far  North.  The  idea  that  Sir  John  Franklin 
was  still  alive  and  within  the  reach  of  human  aid,  had 
taken  full  possession  of  his  fhind ;  and,  in  his  dreams, 
he  alternately  saw  the  tear-dimmed  eyes  of  Lady 
Franklin  fixed  upon  him  in  silent  imploration,  and 
heard  the  weakened  voices  of  the  8u£fering  mariners 
calling  for  release  from  their  icy  prison.  He  addressed 
a  letter  to  Mr.  Grinnell,  in  which  he  expressed  the 
opinion  that  Sir  John  was  now  *^  to  be  sought  for  north 


DOOTOB  EIASHA  K.  KANl. 


255 


ht  with 
us,  and 
[ig  been 
nth  the 
I  of  the 
)f  char- 
arlessly 
civilized 
the  real 
e  other 
Id  more 
doctor's 
[lemma ; 
If-blame 
impossi- 
it. 

aid  bind 
The  un- 
I  was  an 
sed  with 
loration 
^ranklin 
lid,  had 
dreams, 
f  Lady 
on,  and 
Qariners 
[dressed 
Bed  the 
)r  north 


and  west  of  Oornwallis  Island ;"  and  added  as  follows : 
'*  As  to  the  chance  of  the  destruction  of  his  party  by 
the  casualties  of  ice,  the  return  of  our  own  party  after 
something  more  than  the  usual  share  of  them,  is  the 
only  fact  that  I  can  add  to  what  we  knew  when  we  set 
out.  The  hazards  from  cold  and  privation  of  food  may 
almost  be  looked  on  as  subordinate.  The  snow-hut, 
the  light  and  heat  of  the  moss-lamp  fed  with  blubber, 
the  seal,  the  narwnal,  the  white  whale,  and,  occasionally, 
abundant  stores  of  migrating  birds,  would  Liastain 
vigorous  life.  The  scurvy,  the  worst  visitation  of  .3T- 
plorers  deprived  of  permanent  quarters,  is  more  rare  in 
the  depths  of  a  polar  winter  than  in  the  milder  we».thor 
of  the  moist  summer ;  and  our  two  little  vessels  au- 
countered  both  seasons  without  losing  a  man/* 

The  arguments  of  this  zealous  pleader  induc^^il  our 
government  to  authorize  another  Expedition,  which  was 
to  be  under  Dr.  Kane's  command ;  and  Mr.  GriLueU 
proposed  to  dedicate  the  brig  Advance,  (which  had 
formerly  been  used  by  De  Haven,)  to  the  service  of 
t|}is  undertaking.  Dr.  Kane  received  his  orders  from 
the  Navy  Department  in  December,  1852,  and  occu- 
pied himself  with  the  most  active  preparations  for  his 
departure  until  the  30th  of  the  following  May,  when 
the  Advance  set  sail  for  that  dreary  region,  amoirig 
whose  icebergs  she  herself  still  lies  imprisoned.  Thus 
it  was  actually  but  little  more  than  one  month  after  his 
return  from  an  arctic  voyage,  in  whicb  he  had  endured 
countless  perils  and  hardshipf^,  before  Dr.  Kane  began 
to  prepare  for  engaging  in  a  longer  and  more  venturous 


'I 


1 


if 


I 


m 


iSi 


m 


4? 


256 


BIOGRAIfllOAL  SKETCH  (MP 


exploration  of  the  same  nature.  In  fact,  he  had  no 
sooner  returned  from  his  cruise  with  De  Haven,  than 
he  was  busied  in  planning  another  departure,  allowing 
himself  no  time  to  rest  and  recover  from  the  fatigue 
and  oppressive  recollections  of  the  scenes  and  labors 
through  which  he  had  so  lately  passed. 

The  particulars  of  Dr.  Kane's  last  arctic  explora- 
tions have  been  detailed  to  our  readers  in  the  body  of 
this  volume.  We  all  remember  how,  during  the  pro- 
tracted absence  of  the  explorers,  the  apprehension  that, 
in  seeking  to  rescue  Captain  Franklin,  Dr.  Kane  had 
involved  himself  in  that  Commander's  dreadful  and 
mysterious  fate,  grew  almost  to  a  hopeless  certainty  in 
the  minds  of  his  countrymen.  Who  does  not  remember, 
too,  how  the  voice  of  joy  '^nd  congratulation  was  heard 
over  the  land  when  the  intrepid  adventurer  returned, 
as  one  from  the  dead ! 

,  It  may  be  noted,  as  one  among  many  proofs  of  the 
deep  affection  with  which  Dr.  Kane  was  regarded  by  his 
relatives,  that  his  brother,  Dr.  John  Kane,  eagerly  em- 
braced the  opportunity  to  accompany  Capt.  Hartsteii^'s 
Expedition  in  search  of  Elisha ;  and  that  he,  (Dr.  J. 
Kane,)  discovered  traces  of  his  brother  which  might 
have  been  overlooked  by  the  less  watchfbl  anxiety  of 
the  rest  of  the  party. 

To  make  the  satisfaction  of  all  more  complete.  Dr. 
Kane  appeared  to  be  in  decidedly  better  health  than  he 
had  enjoyed  before  his  departure ;  so  that  it  appears 
probable  that  had  he  given  his  system  the  rest  and 
careful  attention  it  demanded,  he  might  have  been  living 


DOCTOR  ELI8HA  K.   KANE. 


251 


at  this  moment.  However,  immediately  after  his 
arrival,  he  set  about  composing  the  history  of  his  Expe- 
dition and  preparing  it  for  the  press.  It  is  said  that 
his  addresses  to  Miss  Margaret  Fox  were  resumed  on 
his  return  to  the  United  States.  We  feel  some  reluc- 
tance in  making  any  allusion  to  this  delicate  affair ; 
and  we  merely  refer  to  it  as  a  part  of  Dr.  Kane's 
history,  which  we  have  undertaken  to  write.  His 
attachment  is  supposed  to  have  survived  an  absence 
of  more  than  two  years,  during  which  no  correspond- 
ence between  the  parties  was  possible.  But  the  same 
obstacles  to  their  union,  which  we  have  previously 
mentioned,  still  existed.  In  the  meanwhile  he  was 
closely  engaged  in  preparing  his  journal  Tor  publication. 
Such  a  task  is  always  extremely  heavy  to  one  who  is  un- 
accustomed to  authorship ;  but  Kane  applied  himself 
to  this  new  business  with  untiring  assiduity.  Yet  that 
was  the  very  crisis  when  he  most  needed  repose  and 
recreation,  instead  of  that  close  confinement  and  severe 
mental  labor  to  which  he  devoted  all  his  time.  He 
arose  from  his  finished  labor  to  find  that  all  the  health 
and  vigor  he  had  possessed  at  the  time  of  his  return 
w^e  now  at  an  end ;  and  in  announcing  to  a  friend 
the  completion  of  his  work,  he  observed,  **  This  book, 
poor  as  it  is,  has  been  my  coffin !" 

Then  came  the  almost  unendurable  heat  of  the  sum- 
mer, whose  exhausting  effect  on  the  Doctor's  constitu- 
tion, after  two  winters  spent  at  the  North  Pole,  may 
be  imagined.  Yet  still,  hard  as  it  may  be  for  some 
minds  to  conceive  his  motives,  he  thought  more  of  the 
22* 


'% 


258 


BIOGRAPHIOAL  8KET0H  Of 


preservation  of  other  lives  than  his  own.  The  burden 
of  his  thought  was  still,  "Franklin  must  be  saved ;  and 
I  am  ordained  by  Heaven  to  be  instrumental  in  this 
work."  "This  he  believed,  (says  his  father,  while 
speaking  of  this  strange  yet  touching  fancy  of  the 
Doctor's,)  as  none  but  the  true-hearted  can  believe 
any  thing." 

To  favor  the  resolution  he  had  formed,  the  British 
government,  as  a  testimonial  of  England's  appreciation 
of  his  labors  in  Franklin's  cause,  offered  Dr.  Kane  the 
command  of  another  Arctic  Expedition,  to  be  fitted  out 
at  the  expense  of  that  government.  He  accordingly 
prepared  to  go  to  England  for  the  purpose  of  entering 
upon  his  missTon ;  and  the  news  of  his  intended  visit 
was  received  by  Lady  Franklin  with  such  a  thrill  of 
joy  as  she  had  not  for  years  experienced.  She  had  a 
house  elegantly  furnished  expressly  for  his  use;  and 
awaited,  with  intense  eagerness,  the  arrival  of  every 
steamer,  in  hopes  th«;v<;  each  was  the  one  which  was  con- 
veying to  her  sight  the  champion  whom  she  had  so  long 
desired  to  meet. 

Two  days  before  Dr.  Kane's  departure,  the  Mayor 
and  a  number  of  eminent  citizens  of  Philadelphia  ad- 
dressed a  letter  to  him,  extolling  his  actions,  expressing 
their  regret  on  account  of  his  ill  health,  and  requesting 
his  attendance  at  a  public  dinner  to  be  given  in  his 
honor.    To  this  he  returned  the  following  answer  :— 


t 


^    Philadelphia,  October  8, 1856. 
OerUlemm :  The  condition  of  my  health  compels  ma 


.r'T. 


'0' 


DOOTOR  ELTSHA  K.   KANB. 


259 


to  decline  your  invitation.  It  is  especially  grateful  to 
me  that  so  many  names,  associated  with  my  earliest  re- 
collections and  regard,  should  thus  testify  their  kind 
feelings.  I  beg  to  assure  the  gentlemen  whom  you 
represent  of  my  regret  at  being  unable  to  rneot  them. 

I  am,  very  faithfully,  your  ob*t.  8er\'*i. 

E.  E.  Kane. 

To  the  Hon.  BIchard  Yaux,  Mayor,  Kight  Rev.  Alonzo 
Potter,  and  others. 


i 


me 


^  On  the  very  day  on  which  this  note  was  penned,  Dr. 
Kane  sailed  for  Europe,  and  from  the  steamer's  deck 
took  a  last  view  of  his  native  city.  He  had  wasted 
away  to  such  a  degree,  that  those  who  saw  him  at  that 
time  declared  that  he  appeared  like  a  mere  shadow ;  and 
to  a  friend  who  accompanied  him  to  the  ship,  he  com- 
plained of  extreme  weakness.  But  even  these  symp- 
toms were  less  alarming  to  his  relatives  and  friends 
then  the  fact  that,  for  the  first  time  in  his  life,  he  took 
his  leave  of  them  under  the  impression  that,  with  the 
eyes  of  flesh,  he  should  never  see  them  again.  His 
health  had  been  indiiOferent  for  many  years,  and  many  a 
perilous  journey  had  he  undertaken,  but  never  before 
had  the  anxious  family  seen  that  bold  and  intrepid 
spir'a  yield  to  a  presentiment  of  disappointment  and 
death.  The  steamer  in  which  ho  embarked  left  Phila- 
delphia on  the  8th  of  October,  1856 ;  she  stopped  at 
New  York,  from  whence,  on  the  ensuing  Saturday,  she 
set  sail  for  England.  ^ 


260 


BIOOBAPHIOAL  SKETCH  OF 


I' 


■ 


Dr.  Kane  was  received  in  England  with  marks  of 
unusual  distinction ;  but  he  waived  them  all,  very 
rarely  appeared  in  public,  and  by  avoiding  every 
ostentatious  tribute  which  was  offered  him,  he  proved 
that  the  object  of  his  visit  was  not  the  gratifica 
tion  of  a  vain  desire  of  applause.  The  meeting  between 
Dr.  Kane  and  Lady  Franklin  was  like  that  of  affection- 
ate relatives,  who  had  long  been  separated.  He  still 
clung  to  the  idea  of  another  Arctic  Expedition  ;  but  his 
friends  and  physicians  earnestly  assured  him,  that  if 
he  did  not  seek  relief  in  a  warmer  climate,  he  would 
soon  be  totally  unable  not  only  to  visit  the  North  Pole, 
but  to  stir  out  of  his  room,  or  his  bed.  He  accordingly 
visited  the  Island  of  St.  Thomas,  West  Indies ;  but  ex- 
periencing no  relief  there,  soon  departed  for  Cuba. 
He  seems  to  have  labored  under  a  complication  of 
diseases ;  and  while  far  gone  in  a  consumption,  he  suf- 
fered much  from  inflammatory  rheumatism.  Although 
from  the  insidious  'nature  of  Dr.  Kane's  disease,  it  was 
not  thought  to  be  fatal,  one  of  his  brothers,  on  hear- 
ing of  his  departure  from  England,  set  out  to  meet 
him  at  Cuba.  Soon  after  his  arrival  at  Havana,  Dr. 
Kane  had  a  stroke  of  paralysis.  When  the  news  of 
this  alarming  and  unexpected  symptom  reached  his 
friends  at  home,  his  mother  immediately  started  for 
Cuba,  accompanied  by  one  of  his  brothers. 

At  this  juncture.  Dr.  Kane's  health  appeared  to  im- 
prove. On  the  arrival  of  his  relatives  he  was  in  good 
spirits,  and  seemed  to  have  some  hopes  for  the  future. 
The  hopes  of  his  friends  rose  likewise,  and  they  pleased 


■■ 


i 


o 

CO 


H 
O 


H 

O 

> 
< 

o 
f 
a 


rks  of 
,  very 
every 
proved 
ratifica 
etween 
ection- 
[e  still 
but  his 
;hat  if 
would 
a  Pole, 
•dingly 
but  ex- 
Cuba, 
ion  of 
le  suf- 
though 
it  was 
hear- 
)  meet 
ta,  Dr. 
>ws  of 
ed  his 
ed  for 

to  im- 
Q  good 
future. 
)leased 


^  1 


DOOTOB  ELISHA  K.   KANB. 


263 


themselves  with  the  idea  that  he  would  soon  accompany 
them  home  in  renewed  health.  Alas !  the  cruel  revul- 
sion was  only  felt  the  more  keenly  by  his  relatives, 
when,  a  few  days  after,  he  was  again  attacked,  and  sunk 
Bo  rapidly,  that  it  was  impossible  to  escape  the  convic- 
tion that  he  was  dying.  A  telegraphic  dispatch,  dated 
February  13th,  1857,  announced  to  his'friends  in  Phila- 
delphia, that  he  was  not  expected  to  live  through  that 
day.  Contrary  to  his  own  expectation,  and  that  of 
others,  he  was  still  alive  on  the  following  morning. 
His  mental  faculties  were  perfectly  clear,  and  so  re- 
mained to  the  last.  Though  quite  aware  of  his  condi- 
tion, he  was  as  tranquil  and  composed 


"As  one  who  wraps  the  drapery  of  his  couch 
Around  him,  and  lies  down  to  pleasant  dreams.*' 


!      II 


<     :  I 


%/ 


He  was  now  unable  to  speak,  but  in  obedience  to  a  wish 
which  the  watchful  love  of  his  mother  contrived  to  inter- 
pret, she  employed  herself  in  reading  to  him  from  the 
sacred  Scriptures.  While  she  was  reading  the  follow- 
ing passage :  **  Let  not  your  heart  be  troubled ;  ye  be- 
lieve in  God,  believe  also  in  me.  In  my  father's  house 
are  many  mansions.  I  go  to  prepare  a  place  for  you"^- 
his  brothers  perceived  that  he  had  ceased  to  breath^.' 
There  was  neither  struggle  nor  groan ;  and  so  geniJy 
did  he  expire,  that  his  mother  still  continued  reading 
for  some  moments,  unconscious  of  her  losB. 

The  Spanish  authorities  at  Havana,  on  the  occasion 


264 


BIOORAPHIOAL  SKETCH  OF 


of  Dr.  Kane's  death,  made  demonstrations  very  unusual 
with  them,  by  showing  every  possible  mark  of  respect, 
and  following,  in  company  with  some  of  the  most  emi- 
nent citizens,  the  remains  of  the  arctic  hero  to  the 
steamship  Oahawboy  by  which  they  were  to  be  conveyed 
to  New  Orleans.  When  the  body  was  conveyed  on 
board  of  the  steamer,  a  funeral  oration  was  delivered 
by  the  Governor  of  Havana,  Don  Jose  Ignacio  d'Echa- 
yaria.  At  every  city  through  which  the  remains  passed, 
on  their  homeward  route,  every  testimonial  which  grief 
and  respect  could  suggest  was  offered  to  the  memory 
of  the  deceased. 

On  the  afternoon  of  March  11th,  the  railroad  train 
which  conveyed  the  honored  corse  arrived  at  Philadel- 
phia. The  coffin  was  conveyed  under  a  military  escort 
to  Independence  Hall,  where  the  body  lay  in  state  that 
night,  guarded  by  the  military  company  called  the 
Washington  Grays.  At  12  o'clock  on  the  following 
day  the  funeral  procession  started  for  Laurel  Hill 
Cemetery.  The  coffin  was  covered  by  the  American 
flag,  and  entirely  overlaid  with  the  choicest  flowers, 
among  which  was  a  magnificent  wreath,  contributed 
by  the  ladies  of  Philadelphia.  The  sword  presented 
to  Dr.  Kane  by  his  fellow-citizens,  on  his  retura 
from  Mexico,  was  also  placed  upon  the  coffin.  At 
the  Second  Presbyterian  Church,  an  able  and  affecting 
funeral  sermon  was  delivered  by  the  Bev.  Mr.  Shields, 
after  which  the  body  was  conveyed  to  its  destined 
resting-place  at  Laurel  Hill,  and  deposited  in  the 
family  vault. 


Wi 


'ii 


DOCTOR  SLIIHA   K.  KANl. 


fe6 


The  American  muse  has  offered  many  tributes  to  the 
memory  of  Dr.  Kane,  from  among  which  wo  select  the 
following,  by  a  very  young  authoreii,  which  we  con- 
sider very  much  to  the  purpose. 

»  - 

LIN£S  TO  THE  MEMORY  OF  DR.  £.  K.  KANE;  WHO  DIED  AT 

HAVANA,  CUBA. 

BT  MISS  MABOARET  B.  WHJfBB. 

A  tropic  eve,  an  ever-yernal  isle, 

Glowed  gorgeous  round  their  musing  hero-guMt, 
As  fancy's  ftiture  still  he  bade  beguile 

The  present's  pain,  sloir  ravening  in  hit  breast. 

He  saw  afar,  a  dark  and  frozen  land, 
Where  only  dwell,  (and  they  how  loath  to  dwell  1) 

One  haggard,  hopeless,  ocean-banish'd  band ; 

To  him  they  look,  and  the  imploring  hand 
Outstretch ;  for  he  must  break  the  frost-flend'i  speU 

Upstarting,  saint  or  bard  inspir'd,  he  seems, 
Then  sinks,  to  suffering  feebleness  resigned, 
•    As  when  some  captive,  who  of  freedom  dreams. 
Wakes,  at  his  fetter's  dash,  its  weight  to  find. 

He  bore  a  viewless,  yet  a  crushing  chain. 
Though  to  its  sway  bent  but  the  fragile  dust ; 
fi        For  his  the  conqueror's  soul,  in  martial  plain 
^  Triumphant,  as  o'er  Fire,  and  Frost,  and  Main ; 

And  his  the  Christian's  ever,  dauntless  trust. 

"  This  boon  alone  from  life  I  crave,"  he  sighed, 
«<  To  seek  yon  wanderers  of  the  stormy  pole, 
Till  o'er  one  faithful  lady's  cheek,  the  tide 
Of  anxious  bitterness  no  more  shall  roll. 
23 


■/{ 


866  BIOORAPHTOAL  SKJETOn  Or 

«  Bat  Thou  who,  from  luch  night  as  hftunta  the  tomb, 
Onoe  heard  my  prayer,  fk-om  the  ohill  *  wind-loT'd  tpoti 
Thou,  through  that  vigil  of  enduring  gloom, 
With  thine  own  light,  did'st  atill  my  eoul  illumv 
^  Nor  shall  I  be  in  Death'i  daric  shade  forgot." 

What  though,  where  silent  lies  that  dreamer  pale, 
Now  wave  the  tery  flowers  he  loT'd  to  rear,  t 

He  lives  amidst  ns  in  the  wild,  sweet  tale 
He  left,— the  sum  of  glory  to  declare. 

The  wish,  heroically  kiud,  which  wolce 

Such  hope  elate  the  lost  of  years  to  save. 
Warm  teeming  in  his  heart,  even  while  it  broke, 
Shall  sympathy's  most  tender  drops  invoice 

From  all  the  gentle,  chivalrous  and  brave. 

Let  grosser  souls  his  vision  vain  deride, 
Nor  dread  his  "frenzy"  ere  shall  be  their  own;        't 

Such  madness  makes  the  bard's,  the  hero's  pride; 

'Tie  to  each  high,  each  generous  deed  allied, 
And  fires  the  bosoms  of  the  Great  alone. 

Dr.  Kane,  at  the  time  of  his  death,  was  thirty-five 
years  of  age,  but  was  still  younger  in  appearance.  He 
was  about  five  feet  seven  inches  in  height.  His  person 
was  extremely  slender ;  so  that,  in  his  best  health  and 
condition,  hia  weight  did  not  exceed  one  hundred  and 
thirty  pounds.  His  frame  was  constructed  with  a  de 
licacy  almost  feminine,  which,  with  the  great  refine 
ment  evinced  in  his  whole  appearance,  made  it  difficult 
to  reconcile  his  identity  with  that  of  the  intrepid  ad- 
venturer who  had  endured  the  extremest  hardships  of 
every  quarter  of  the  globe.     His  hair  was  of  a  dark 


m. 


-<Au^. 


DOOTOa   BLIBHA   K.  KANK. 


te? 


browti,  or  chestnut  color,  hit  complexion  fair,  hia  eyei 
dark  gray,  and  so  bright  and  piercing,  that  almost  ererj 
one  who  saw  him  seems  to  have  been  struck  with  their 
resemblance  to  those  of  an  eagle.  His  forehead  was 
high  and  broad>  his  nose  inclining  to  aquiline,  the 
mouth  and  chin  small,  and  very  finely  cut;  while 
nothing  could  he  more  resolute,  or  more  indicative  of 
cool  and  composed  courage  than  the  expression  of  his 
whole  face. 

Lik^  most  others  on  whom  Nature  has  bestowed  a 
pleasing  exterior,  Dr.  Kane  was  disposed  to  set  ofif  his 
person  by  all  the  advantages  of  dress ;  and,  while  pro- 
jecting an  Arctic  Expedition,  he  did  not  forget  to  keep 
his  hair  in  curl,  and  to  choose  becoming  vest-patterns. 
His  deportment  was  modest,  even  to  shyness,  and  he 
could  not  be  brought  to  converse  on  his  own  achieve- 
ments, or  the  honors  which  had  been  paid  to  them.  He 
talked  rapidly,  but  with  a  sententious  brevity  and  curv- 
aess  of  expression,  while  all  his  motions  betrayed  tii# 
restlessness  of  his  disposition. 

Besides  the  narratives  of  his  two  arctic  voyages, 
Br.  Kane  was  the  author  of  various  scientific  treatises 
and  several  lectures,  on  subjects  connected  with  polar 
exploration. 


THB  Bin>. 


IT  MUST  BE  READ.-A  BOOK  FOR  THE  MILLION. 

Now  Beady.— Piioe  only  6Q  Cents. 

A  TRUE  AND  IVARNISIifiD  NARMTIVB 

OF  TQI 

Grinnell  Exploring  Expedition 


1 


TO  TUB 


In  Search  of  SlJtt  JOHJtr  M'Ml^jrMLI.IJir,  1808-4-5. 
DR.  a.  B.  HAini,  OOMMAWDXirO. 

By  WM.  0.  GODFEET,  one  of  the  Survivors  of  the  Expedition. 

How  f»r  Northward  wo  prooeedod — First  Winter  in  the  Arctic  Ooe«n — Dia- 
eoveries  m»de-— Winter  Quarters — Exploring  Parties  sent  oat  from  the  Ship 
— What  they  Discovered — De^th  of  two  of  our  Party  caused  by  Exposure — 
Kane's  bad  Health — Oomes  near  being  Frosen  to  Death — Crossing  the 
Channel  from  the  East  to  the  West  Coast  of  Greenland  by  Dr.  Hays  and 
the  Author— Nearly  Starred  to  Death — Cut  up  our  Seal  Slcin  Boots  to  Eat — 
Snow  Blindness — Morton  and  Hans,  the  Esquimaux,  start  out  Explodng— 
Return  and  Report  having  seen  open  Water — No  one  else  seen  it — Prepare 
for  the  breaking  up  of  the  Ice — No  hopes  of  ever  getting  the  "  Advance" 
from  the  Icy  embrace  of  the  Arctic  Ocean — Prepare  to  spend  another  dismal 
Winter  in  the  Arctic  Sear— Coal  giv«s  out — Intense  Suffering — Crew  all  Sick 
with  the  Scurvy — The  Author  sent  ninety  miles  to  an  Esquimaux  Village 
for  fresh  Meat — DreadfVil  Suffering  on  the  Trip — Returns  SucoessAil  to  the 
"Advance" — Dr.  Kane  calls  him  a  Deserter  while  in  the  frozen  barriers  of 
eternal  Ice— Tries  to  take  his  Life — Shoots  at  me  Twice— The  Ball  strikes 
near  me  without  Effect — Esqnimaux  visit  us — Their  Habits,  Customs,  and 
Peculiarities — What  they  Subsist  upon— Their  kindness  to  us — All  hopes  of 
ever  reaching  Home  again  nearly  vanisheo— Scarcity  of  Food  and  Clothing 
—Cut  up  parts  of  the  Ship  to  warm  by — Melancholy  forebodings — We  must 
Perish  or  leave  our  Vessel  and  retreat  300  miles  across  the  Arctic  Ocean — 
Extreme  Cold  Weather — 3,000  hours  of  total  Darkness — Low  Spirits  of  the 
Crew — ^Dr.  Kane  starts  to  go  in  search  of  the  supposed  open  Sea — Esqui- 
maux desert  him  to  Hunt  Bears — Dr.  returns  to  the  vessel  out  of  humor — 
The  Sun  seen  for  the  first  timjs  in  Three  Months — Preparations  for  abandon- 
ing the  Ship — We  bid  the  "  Advance"  a  last  Farewell — ^All  hands  called — 
Solemn  Prayer  to  Heaven  delivered  by  Dr.  Kane — We  commence  our  Re- 
markable Boat  Journey — Oreat  Suffering — Esquimaux  keep  us  firom  Starv- 
ing— Death  of  Ohlsen,  the  Carpenter — A  Grave  unexpectedly  found  at  the 
Spot — Arrival  at  open  Water — Burn  one  of  our  Boats — Save  arrival  at 
Uppernaviok — Captain  Hartstein  takes  us  on  board  the  "  Arctic,"  and  we 
arrive  at  New  York — Conclusion,  and  Biography  of  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane  from 
the  Cradle  to  the  Grave. 

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First  Looomotiye  brought  to  this  country ;  Qradual  Improvements  in  the 
Iron  Horse ;  Sketch  of  the  Length  and  Value  of  all  the  Railroads  now 
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Explorations  and  Adventures 


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—their  Habits,  Castoms,  Manners,  and  Peouliarities. 

Discovery  of  a  Mighty  River,  navigable  600  miles — its  Course,  Length,  Depth,  Ac. 

Dr.  LIVINGSTONE  Discovers  Bich  Gold  Mines,  of  the  value  of  which  the  Natives 
know  nothing ;  Religious  Belief  of  the  Natives — ^what  they  worship. 

Lion  Hunting ;  Elephant  Hunting ;  Rhinoceros  Hunting ;  Hippopotamus  Adventures ; 
Description  of  the  Animals  of  Africa. 

Description  of  Lalce  Ngami — its  length,  depth,  and  width ;  Account  of  the  different 
Animals  that  frequent  it. 

His  Reception  oy  the  Wild  Tribes  he  discovered — his  treatment  by  them ;  He  Jour- 
neys on  to  another  Tribe,  remains  17  years  with  them  ;  prepares  to  return  to  England. 

Commences  hi^  Journey  of  3,000  miles  through  a  Country  full  of  Wild  Animals ;  At- 
tacked by  four  Lions ;  Two  Natives  killed  on  the  spot,  and  the  Doctor  crippled  for  life. 

Thrilling  Adventnr«»  on  his  way  Homeward ;  is  saved  firom  drowning  by  his  faithfol 
Native  Guide  while  attempting  to  swim  the  Biver  Zambezi. 

Desperate  Fight  with  enraged  Elephants ;  three  Natives  slain ;  the  Docto.., gives  him- 
self up  as  lost,  but  is  unexpectedly  rescued  from  death. 

Safe  Arrival  at  Cape  Town,  after  enduring  nnparalleled  hardships;  Death  of  his 
favorite  Native  Guide,  who  throws  himself  into  the  sea  flrom  fright  at  seeing  a  Steam- 
ship ;  Safe  Arrival  in  London ;  greeting  by  friends  who  had  given  Llm  up  years  ago 
as  lost. 

With  a  Valuable  Map  of  Afbica,  seawn  bt  Dr.  Livinobtone,  shewing  his  Explo- 
ratl-»ns,  Discoveries,  Lake  and  Bivers,  and  the  large  Tract  of  Unexplored  Country  which 
is  now  being  penetrated  by  two  different  Expeditions. 

Being  one  of  the  most  readable  Books  ever  issued.    836  large  12mo. 

Pages,  with  100  Engravings.    Price,  bound  in  cloth,  with 

gold,  $1.00 ;  paper  edition,  60  cents. 

Almost  any  Agent  can  make  $10  ^er  day  canvassing  for  our  PulUeationa,  tnhtch 
we  SELL  TO  THEM  XT  60  PER  CENT.  OFF  THE  RETAIL  PRICE. 

t&-  10,000    •MGEJTTS    W»MJrTED.  "^A 


Address, 


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PUBIilSHBRS, 

PHILADELPHIA,  PENN'A. 


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